MERINO WOOL IS ONE OF THE WORLD S MOST TECHNICALLY ADVANCED FIBRES, WITH UNIQUE MOISTURE & TEMPERATURE REGULATION PROPERTIES.

Transcription

1 MERIN PERFRM TM

2 2

3 3 MERIN WL IS NE F TE WRLD S MST TECNICALLY ADVANCED FIBRES, WIT UNIQUE MISTURE & TEMPERATURE REGULATIN PRPERTIES. WE ARE TE GLBAL AUTRITY N MERIN WL The Woolmark Company is the global authority on wool. Through our extensive network of relationships spanning the international textile and fashion industries, we highlight Australian wool s position as the ultimate natural fibre and premier ingredient in premium technical apparel. The Woolmark logo is one of the world s most recognised and respected brands, providing assurance of the highest quality, and representing pioneering excellence and innovation from farm through to finished product. The Woolmark Company is a subsidiary of Australian Wool Innovation, a not-for-profit enterprise owned by more than 24,000 woolgrowers that invests in research, development and marketing along the worldwide supply chain for Australian wool. WE CAN PRVIDE T UR BUSINESS PARTNERS: marketing resources technical innovations sourcing opportunities a Merino wool-related knowledge base WE AVE STRNG PARTNERSIPS WIT TE GLBAL SUPPLY CAIN FR AUSTRALIAN MERIN WL, INCLUDING: designers retailers brands garment manufacturers knitters weavers processors woolgrowers WE WN AND LICENCE TE WLMARK LG The Woolmark logo is one of the world s most recognised textile symbols and respected brands. In 2011, the logo was selected as the number one top logo of all time by Creative Review magazine. The Woolmark logo on a product provides consumers with an assurance of quality. To feature the Woolmark logo, the garment must contain 100% pure new wool and meet strict quality and fabric performance criteria. More than 5 billion garments have carried the prestigious logo since its creation in In addition to the Woolmark brand, we offer brands for blends. The Wool Rich Blend logo indicates that the product contains 50%-99% wool. The Wool Blend Performance logo indicates that the product contains 30%-49% wool.

4 4 MERIN WL: A NATURAL FIBRE Today, Australia enjoys a global reputation as one of the most scientifically advanced woolgrowing countries in the world. Australian Merino wool is regarded by many as the finest and softest wool produced globally. Australia is the global home of Merino wool, supplying more than 90 percent of the world s fine Merino wool for apparel. Centuries of evolution, aided by selective breeding, have created a super soft, high-performance Merino wool with a number of unique properties. Inherently natural, biodegradable and renewable, Merino wool is well placed to address the increasing global preference for natural and environmentally assured products. NATURAL BIDEGRADABLE RENEWABLE Wool is an entirely natural fibre grown year-round by Australia s 70 million sheep, consuming a simple blend of water, air, sunshine and grass. Unlike most man-made fibres, when a Merino fibre is disposed of, it naturally decomposes back into the earth in a matter of years. Most synthetics on the other hand, are extremely slow to degrade. Every year Australian Merino sheep produce a new fleece, making Merino wool a completely renewable fibre source.

5 5

6 6

7 7 TE SURCE F MERIN WL Grazing on extensive grassland terrain, Merino sheep in Australia are free-range animals that live a largely carefree existence. From the high rainfall areas of the eastern seaboard to the drier pastoral areas of the west, Merino sheep have long been an integral part of the iconic Australian landscape. Ethical and environmentally-sensitive farming can be as important for today s discerning customer as the quality of the clothing itself. Australian Merino wool achieves the highest standards across these areas. For generations, farmers who produce this fine wool have shown how the Australian rural landscape can be managed effectively while protecting the natural environment, supporting rural communities and meeting the needs of today s environmentally aware customers.

8 8 MERIN WL: A PERFRMANCE FIBRE TE STRUCTURE F WL FIBRE Macrofibril Cell membrane complex Matrix Four outer cuticle layers Microfibril Left-handed coiled coil rope Para cell and ortho cell cortex Right-handed α-helix Schematic diagram of the wool fibre drawn by Bruce Fraser, Tom MacRae and colleagues. Source: CSIR MISTURE MANAGEMENT Merino wool fibres can transfer large quantities of moisture vapour from the body, which is then evaporated into the air. This allows the microclimate above the skin to become less saturated with vapour, thereby making the wearer less clammy and it is less likely for the vapour to form sweat droplets on the skin s surface. BREATABILITY The scientific term for breathability is moisture buffering. Moisture buffering refers to the fabric s capacity to transfer moisture vapour from the microclimate above the skin and release it again on the outer, drier side. Merino wool clothing does this extremely well, making wool garments highly breathable and the wearer less prone to clamminess. Skin Microclimate Moisture vapour eat transfer occurs via mass transfer of vapour MerinoPerform base layer Efficient dispersal into atmosphere Chemical attraction quickly draws vapour molecules through fabric thus reducing possibility of condensation Moisture vapour contained in the side chain reservoirs within wool fibres (before being released into the atmosphere), thus keeping fabric dry Source: AWI, 2011

9 9 TE PERFRMANCE FIBRE A MLECULAR VIEW F A WL FIBRE Merino wool is one of the world s most technically advanced fibres, with unique moisture and temperature regulation properties. It is used by athletes across the world, engaging in various low, mid and high-intensity levels of activity. W TE UNIQUE STRUCTURE F WL AFFECTS ITS PERFRMANCE Water vapour molecules Electric attractions δ- 0 C δ+ C Protein Backbone R1 Aspartic acid side chains C2 C C N C C N C C Lysine side chains (C2) 4 N δ+ δ- 0 Electric attractions δ+ δ- 0 Water vapour molecules The chemical bonding within a Merino wool fibre has the effect of allowing the fibres to transfer moisture vapour away from the skin. δ+ N C C N R2 δ+ Without this effective dispersal system, the vapour simply condenses to form sweat droplets on the skin s surface. The diagram represents this unique fibre structure of Merino wool s electronically charged side chains. WY DES TEMPERATURE CNTRL MATTER? Water vapour molecules Electric attractions δ+ δ+ δ- 0 δ+ C R3 Aspartic acid side chains C2 C C N C C C N C C N Lysine side chains (C2) 4 N δ+ δ+ δ- 0 δ- 0 Electric attractions Water vapour molecules Merino wool garments protect the wearer from extremes of temperature (hot or cold) because they offer superior insulation and breathability compared to other fabrics of similar structure and weight. This insulation capacity has made wool synonymous with warmth, yet because wool is an active fibre, it also has a cooling effect on the wearer, keeping them cool and dry in warm conditions. UNDERSTANDING MISTURE TRANSPRTATIN Source: TWC, 2009 Moisture uptake Water Vapour Uptake (%) δ+ C R Relative umidity (%) Wool Cotton Polyamide/Polyester Polyacrylic In hot climates or during strenuous exercise, the microclimate above the skin becomes saturated with vapour. This can cause the wearer to become clammy unless their clothing, such as clothes made from Merino wool, can transport this moisture vapour away from the skin. Source: W.I.R.A. Textile Data Book

10 10 DUR RESISTANCE Merino wool fibres stay fresher for longer. Merino wool structure and moisture absorption properties reduce the tendency for build-up of body odours. Its complex chemical structure locks the odour molecules within the fibre and only releases them on washing. ANTI-STATIC The ability to dissipate static electricity means that Merino wool garments have a reduced attraction to lint and fluff. They will also not cling uncomfortably to the wearer, which synthetics often do during exercise, resulting in a more comfortable workout. NATURAL CMFRT Merino wool fibres are finer than traditional wool fibres, so they feel luxuriously soft next to the skin. And they work in total harmony with the wearer s body due to their excellent natural elasticity. So next-to-skin Merino wool garments are ideal for stretch-related activities such as gym workouts and yoga. TEMPERATURE REGULATIN CSIR wear trial results Moisture absorbed (% increased in weight of garment) Minutes of Exercise Wool Measured Wool Predicted Polyester Measured Polyester Predicted Sweating is nature s temperature regulator the evaporation of liquid from the skin s surface producing a very efficient cooling effect. Potentially, clothing can obstruct this process causing overheating. owever, compared to clothing made from other fibres, Merino wool s process of vapour transfer results in cooler muscles that are able to work at higher intensity levels. Source: CSIR Clamminess Rating: 1=None 5=Extreme Minutes of Exercise Polyester Wool A wool T-shirt absorbed more perspiration during exercise, and felt less clammy than an identically-knitted polyester garment. Source: CSIR

11 11

12 12

13 13 EASY CARE Merino wool fibres have a natural protective layer that prevents stains being absorbed. Wool fibres are also less prone to static build-up, meaning they do not readily attract dust. Recent innovations also mean that many Merino wool products can be machine washed and tumble dried. Surface Free Energy (mn/m) Fibre soiling propensity il Polyamide Acrylic Polyester Wool Source: Wool: Nature s Wonder Fibre, J.D Leeder il and water based stains do not easily adhere to fibres with SFE less than 30 NATURALLY SAFER FIBRE 60 Average UPF values of knitwear fibres Thilo Gamblicher, Sebastian Rotterdam, Peter Altmeyer, Klaus offmann "Protection against ultraviolet radiation by commercial summer clothing: need for standarised testing and labelling BMC Dermatology, 2001, vol 1, No. 6 Merino wool fibres naturally absorb UV radiation, offering protection to wearers of Merino wool garments when exposed to sunshine. The Merino fibre is also naturally fire retardant due to its relatively high moisture and nitrogen content. SAPE RETENTIN Merino wool fibres are naturally elastic, meaning it stretches with the wearer, and then returns to its natural shape. This means there is less chance of Merino wool garments sagging or losing their shape. Average UPF Value Cotton Preference After Wearing Acrylic Wool Linen Viscose Polyamide Polyester Source: Thilo Gamblicher, Sebastian Rotterdam, Peter Altmeyer, Klaus offmann Protection against ultraviolet radiation by commercial summer clothing: need for standardised testing and labelling BMC Dermatology, 2001 Polypropylene Merino Cotton Merino Merino Preference Votes The wearer trials showed that Merino socks were preferred for lack of odour after wear and also having less trace of odour after washing, especially when compared to polypropylene socks. Preference After Washing Merino Cotton Acrylic Polypropylene Merino Merino Preference Votes Source: IWS Report AP541 Stretch properties Fibre Stretch at Breaking point (%) Polyamide Polyester Low-pill Polyester Cotton Acrylic Source: Wool: Nature s Wonder Fibre, J.D Leeder Wool Wet Dry The high stretch of wool fibre allows it to absorb sudden stresses.

14 14

15 15 INNVATINS ACRSS TUSANDS F YEARS Wool is one of nature s most advanced developments. For thousands of years the fibre has evolved and perfected its performance to meet the need of modern consumers. During the past ten years we have seen a substantial amount of ground-breaking developments in circular knitting that have created the foundation for Merino wool to be increasingly used in performance apparel. After the success of single jersey fabrics, there has been a growth in demand for wool in base-layers, mid-layers and soft-shell jackets. The latest innovations in Merino wool generated by today s designers and developers include seamless garments, of which less chafing is an obvious advantage. Wool s breathability is further utilised by advanced combinations of knitting technologies that map structures to the body to cater for the need of each part. A typical feature for a bike jersey would be a mesh underarm panel and a wind protection front section. Compression garments have generated more and more interest and have been brought into new applications. Muscle support is a key feature in common sporting activities such as running, biking, multi-sports and climbing. Wearers have often been complaining about the discomfort of wet and extremely tight fitting garments. owever, Merino wool worn on the inside, next-to-skin, makes a real difference here thanks to its moisture management and thermo-regulating properties, combined with the crimped, soft fibres that minimise clinging to the skin. There are multiple ways to construct such a compression fabric; warp knit is just one. ne of the most recent developments has been aimed at woven fabrics for outerwear and shirts. The most striking innovation in wool outerwear is MerinoPerform WP. This innovative new fabric uses the latest stretch and recovery technology to deliver a wind and water resistant 100% Merino wool fabric. In addition to this, there are wool waddings (fillings) developed for both outerwear jackets offering superior breathability and insulation. Perhaps one of the most unique wool innovations to date is the use of the fibre in running shoes and sneakers, allowing optimum movement and expansion of the runner s foot, in addition to wool s superior moisture management capability.

16 16 INTRDUCING MERINPERFRM TM & TE LAYERING SYSTEM In the area of performance apparel, the agreed concept of dressing is the layering system: Base-layer, Mid-layer and uter-layer. This gives the wearer the opportunity to always adjust the clothing to the environment as well as to the activity level. It is of utmost importance that these three layers work together, thereby not just giving the protection required but also to deliver maximum breathability. If any of the layers don t perform, or interact with the other, the result can be either a too cold or a too warm and humid experience. The unique moisture management, buffering, insulating and breathability properties of the Merino wool fibre work seamlessly together through all three layers, no matter the conditions: hot, cold or humid. BASE-LAYER MID-LAYER R SFT SELL UTER-LAYER Next-to-Skin, Pro and Advantage The three fabric concepts cover all levels of activity. Merino wool garments in 19.5 micron or finer assure the wearer of a super soft and comfortable next-to-skin product with highly efficient breathability. This layer is usually a stretchy garment and a protection layer against cold or wet weather. Wool s superior insulation properties make it a perfect fibre for this. With a wool lining in a hard shell jacket, condensation is minimised and the insulation properties of wool help stop chills penetrating through the fabric from the cold environment. In an all-wool garment, wool s insulation and water resistance makes it ideal for all kinds of weather. Body Warmth Wind & Rain perspiration perspiration Source: AWI, 2014

17 17

18 18 MERINPERFRM TM BASE-LAYER MERINPERFRM TM NEXT-T-SKIN The MerinoPerform TM Next-to-Skin range provides a high level of comfort, suitable for those seeking a sense of wellbeing in a broad range of leisure and sporting activities. Merino wool s natural elasticity allows the clothing to move with your body, making MerinoPerform Next-to-Skin garments ideal for stretch-related activities such as gym workouts and yoga. 4 3 CSIR wear trial results Moisture absorbed (% increased in weight of garment) Wool Measured Wool Predicted Minutes of Exercise Polyester Measured Polyester Predicted Source: CSIR 3 Clamminess Rating: 1=None 5=Extreme Polyester Wool Minutes of Exercise Source: CSIR A wool T-shirt absorbed more perspiration during exercise, and felt less clammy than an identically-knitted polyester garment.

19 19 MERINPERFRM TM PR MerinoPerform TM Pro is the ultimate next-to-skin sports fabric for the serious participant whether professional or amateur. It has the advanced vapour and liquid moisture management of MerinoPerform TM Advantage (see next page) but in a 100% Merino wool, knitted fabric. KEY FEATURES 100% Merino wool Moisture Management With consumers demonstrating an increasing preference for eco-friendly products, a highperformance fabric made from an entirely natural fibre has been regarded as the ultimate solution. MerinoPerform TM Pro fabrics meet this need. TECNICAL FEATURES 100% Merino wool, of less than 19.5 micron, enables up to three times the moisture vapour absorption capacity of blended fabrics. Liquid moisture wicking ratio of 2:1 Face:Back. Grade 4 or better moisture management rating from the AATCC 195 test protocol. MerinoPerform TM Pro fabrics work on the same principle as MerinoPerform TM Advantage fabrics, but they are made from 100% Merino wool. Ideal for base-layer garments aimed at low to high activity sports, this innovation is made from a special double-faced 100% Merino fabric. During the initial phases of exercise, the inner layer of the Merino wool fabric transfers moisture vapour. The MerinoPerform TM Pro fabric thereby quickly moves sweat to the fabric s outer side. This one-way wicking behaviour ensures drier garments that feel more comfortable during exercise and reduce post exercise chills. % Water uptake Uptake of liquid moisture according to AATCC Water content on outside Time (Seconds) Water content on inside Source: AWI/TWC, 2011

20 20 MERINPERFRM TM ADVANTAGE MerinoPerform TM Advantage fabrics have the key benefits of the Merino wool fibre, plus the following additional features: BI-CMPNENT FABRIC STRUCTURE MerinoPerform TM Advantage fabrics combine the unique high-performance benefits of Merino fibres with synthetics in a bi-component structure. They are knitted fabrics with the inside component made from 19.5 micron or finer Merino wool. The outside component of the fabric is made from hydrophilic synthetic fibres. VAPUR AND LIQUID MISTURE MANAGEMENT MerinoPerform TM Advantage transfers both vapour and liquid (sweat) moisture away from the body, enabling the wearer to stay comfortably cool and dry during extreme exercise. This one-way wicking behaviour ensures drier garments that feel more comfortable during exercise and reduce post exercise chills. While some non-merino performance fabrics manage to wick liquid moisture away, they do not manage vapour moisture. MerinoPerform TM Advantage fabrics manage both vapour and liquid moisture, resulting in a more advanced cooling and drying process. Merino Perform TM Advantage Fabric Synthetic Fabric 40 minutes 40 minutes 23º 24º 25º 26º 27º 28º 29º 30º 31º 32º 33º 34º MerinoPerform TM Advantage is a range of bi-component fabrics with unique temperature regulation and vapour management properties, keeping athletes cooler and drier when exercising. Source: Sportwool TM Research Program, CSIR, Barry olcombe.

21 21 NN-WL BASE LAYERS umidity & liquid sweat Skin Moisture vapour Vapour dispersal into atmosphere Moisture vapour condenses to form droplets Flow of moisture vapour restricted by material thus fabric can get wet from condensation Source: AWI, 2010 MERINPERFRM TM ADVANTAGE BASE LAYERS Microclimate MerinoPerform TM Buffering layer Skin Drier micro climate provides better insulation and comfort Chemical attraction quickly draws vapour molecules through wool fabric thus reducing possibility of condensation Synthetic outer layer Moisture vapour contained in the side chain reservoirs within wool fibres (before being released into the atmosphere), thus keeping fabric dry Moisture vapour Vapour dispersal into atmosphere eat transfer occurs via mass transfer of vapour Thin layer of wool for moisture buffering and insulation Source: AWI, 2010

22 22

23 23 MERINPERFRM TM MID-LAYER The mid-layer, or soft shell, is usually a stretchy garment and a protective layer against cold or wet weather. Merino wool s superior insulating properties make it the perfect fibre for mid-layer activewear and sports clothing. While the mid-layer garment s key function is to protect the wearer from the cold, the garment must also breathe so as to prevent the body from feeling clammy and humid. Merino wool s ability to absorb humidity created by the body and release it on the outside ensures the wearer experiences the best possible microclimate conditions. TERM-REGULATIN: ENANCED INSULATIN: NATURAL FIT: Compared to other fabrics, Merino wool s process of vapour transfer results in a more balanced or comfortable microclimate. DUR RESISTANCE: Merino wool stays fresher for longer. Its complex chemical structure locks the odour molecules within the fibre and only releases them on washing. Merino wool s long-standing reputation for warmth can be attributed to its high natural bulk and elasticity which together give wool knitwear excellent insulating characteristics in a package that is light in weight, feels soft against the skin and has outstanding moisture buffering capabilities: a combination that cannot be duplicated by any other fibre. Merino wool has excellent natural elasticity. Wool garments move with your body, then return to their original shape, making them ideal for activewear.

24 24 IT S IMPRTANT TAT ALL LAYERS WRK SEAMLESSLY TGETER T MVE VAPUR AWAY FRM TE SKIN AND CREATE A DRY AND INSULATING MICRCLIMATE

25 25 MERINPERFRMTM UTER-LAYER The uter-layer comprises weatherprotective fabrics which can be made of either 100% Australian Merino wool, or Merino laminated wool as a lining to synthetic hard shell fabrics, usually in combination with membranes or coatings. Breathability properties make wool suitable for high-performance garments in all kinds of outdoor activities or sports, from low to high intensity. It s important that all layers work seamlessly together to move vapour away from the skin and create a dry and insulating microclimate. SFT R ARD SELL UTER LAYERS Non-wool fabrics umidity & liquid sweat uter layer with membrane or coating Skin Vapour dispersal into atmosphere Moisture vapour Flow of moisture vapour restricted by material thus fabric inside can get wet from condensation Moisture vapour condenses to form droplets Base layer Source: AWI, 2011 Wool lining of uter layer With an all-wool layering system the moisture vapour buffering capacity (breathability) provides a transfer effect able to deal with most weather conditions and activity levels. Microclimate Merino buffering lining Drier micro climate provides better insulation and comfort Skin uter layer with membrane or coating Moisture vapour contained in the side chain reservoirs within wool fibres (before being released into the atmosphere), thus keeping fabric dry Chemical attraction quickly draws vapour molecules through wool fabric thus reducing possibility of condensation Vapour dispersal into atmosphere Moisture vapour eat transfer occurs via mass transfer of vapour Base layer Thin layer of wool for moisture buffering and insulation Source: AWI, 2011 Wool outer fabric Microclimate Wool fabric Moisture vapour Rain Repelling Skin Base layer eat transfer occurs via mass transfer of vapour Chemical attraction quickly draws vapour molecules through fabric thus reducing possibility of condensation Source: AWI, 2011 Efficient dispersal into atmosphere Moisture vapour contained in the side chain reservoirs within wool fibres (before being released into the atmosphere), thus keeping fabric dry

26 26

27 SFT YET STRNG, TUG AGAINST TE ARSEST F CLIMATES. MERIN WL WAS MADE FR TE GREAT UTDRS. 27

28 WLMARK.CM This publication should only be used as a general aid and is not a substitute for specific advice. All illustrations are courtesy of Australian Wool Innovation and The Woolmark Company. To the extent permitted by law, we exclude all liability for loss or damage arising from the use of the information in this publication. The Woolmark symbol is a Certification mark in many countries The Woolmark Company Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. GD1924