Development of newer products with spun wrapped Jute yarns

Transcription

1 Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources Vol. 1(1), March 2010, pp Development of newer products with spun wrapped Jute yarns Alok Nath Roy* and Gautam Basu National Institute of Research on Jute and Allied Fibre Technology, Indian Council of Agricultural Research 12 Regent Park, Kolkata , West Bengal, India Received 2 September 2008; Accepted 17 July 2009 Jute fibre extracted from stem of two species (Corchorus olitorius Linn. and Corchorus capsularis Linn.) is one of the major cash crops of India and is used mainly for the production of coarser packaging material for packing food grains, sugar and vegetables. In the present study, jute fibre has been used for the development of high value utility products like school and lap-top bags. For the production of these products specialty jute yarns have been developed which has 27% higher work of rupture (i.e., higher load bearing capacity) and more than 90% reduction in hairiness than the conventional jute yarn. The fabrics developed with different weave structure for the fabrication of the products when compared with ordinary jute fabric of similar constructional parameters, show higher strength and elongation and drastic reduction in bending modulus resulting in softer feel, which also helps in easy folding of the fabric during stitching operation. Similar products may also be developed from natural fibres similar to jute e.g., Hibiscus cannabinus Linn. (Kenaf), Hibiscus sabdariffa Linn. (Rossel), Cannabis sativa Linn. (Hemp) and Linum utitatissimum Linn. (Flax). Keywords: Corchorus olitorius, Corchorus capsularis, Jute fibre, Handloom fabric, Utility jute products, Spun-wrapped yarn, Yarn hairiness, Polypropylene multifilament yarn. IPC code; Int. cl. 8 A61K 36/00, D01B 1/00 Introduction Corchorus olitorius Linn. and Corchorus capsularis Linn. are mainly cultivated in Asia and some parts of Africa and Latin America for extracting jute fibre. About 90% of world jute fibre is produced in India, Bangladesh, China and Thailand and is one of the major cash crops of India. The major use of jute is for the production of coarser packaging material which is mainly used for the manufacture of different types of bags e. g., Hessian, and gunny bags. However, as fibre, jute is facing serious challenges from its synthetic counterparts. But the rising concern on ecological balance and maintenance of bio-diversity due to increasing use of synthetic materials and also depletion of crude petroleum oil stock, which is the major source of most of the synthetic materials, natural products are gaining importance. Textile fibres are also not exception to this trend; natural fibre based fabrics are gaining importance. Jute fibre, an unique natural composite of ligno-cellulosic material, is second most important natural fibre after cotton and is annually renewable i.e. the supply of fibre every year *Correspondent author a_n_royin@yahoo.co.in Phone: is assured to the industry within an acceptable price range. Alpha-cellulose (61%), hemicellulose (24%) and lignin (11.5%) are the major chemical constituents 1 of jute fibre. The physical and mechanical properties of jute fibre 2 are given in Table 1. Over the years, researchers are trying to find different end uses of jute fibre other than its traditional use as packaging material and as a result a number of areas have been identified where jute fibre can be used as a replacement of its synthetic counterpart. The jute fibre based products being biodegradable are environment friendly and easily disposable. The objective of the present work is to develop suitable durable yarn made from jute fibre which can comfortably meet the need of different textile-based bags/packs for high value items which are presently being made from synthetics. Suitable fabrics were prepared in a recently developed handweaving machine using specially engineered jute yarn (christened as spun-wrapped yarn or covered yarn). The jute spun wrapped yarn show much lower hairiness, better tensile and flexural properties than ordinary jute yarn 6. The yarn and fabric properties have been evaluated following the standard method to portray the guidelines to the small scale entrepreneurs and artisans for producing and marketing the

2 12 INDIAN J NAT PROD RESOUR, MARCH 2010 developed products. The products were developed looking into the essential needs and recent fashion trend 3-6. Materials and Methods Jute fibre of TD-3 grade (C. olitorius) was selected for the production of the jute yarn 7. A special technique, spun-wrapped yarn manufacturing technique was developed in our institute for the production of specialty jute yarn having improved property performance than the ordinary jute yarn was used for this purpose 6. Polypropylene (PP) multifilament of 80 denier (weight of 9000m length of filament in grams) fineness was used as wrapping material with jute fibre for the production of spun-wrapped yarn. Polypropylene (PP) filament was used for its better tensile strength, extensibility and abrasion resistance and lesser cost than viscose filament. Another advantage of using PP filament is its lower density which provides higher surface area of filament for the same linear density as compared to polyester, nylon or viscose filament. Study revealed 6 that spun wrapped yarn produced using PP filament shows lower hairiness than other filament covered yarn. The proportion of jute fibre and filament in the yarn was maintained at the level 97:3 i.e. 97% jute and 3% filament. The strength and extensibility at break of PP multifilament used was 36.4 cn/tex and 29.6%, respectively. 1. Ultimate cell Table 1 Physical properties of jute fibre Property C. capsularis (White jute) C. olitorius (Tossa jute) Length, mm Breadth, 10-3 mm Length/Breadth value Filaments Gravimetric fineness, tex Tenacity, g/tex Breaking extension, % Torsional modulus, ( dynes/cm 2 ) Flexural modulus, dynes/cm 2 Transverse swelling in water, % 3. Bundle tenacity, g/tex True density, g/cm Apparent density, g/cm Moisture regain % at 65% r. h at 100% r. h Preparation of spun-wrapped yarn Jute fibre was sprayed with 30% castor oil-in-water emulsion (2% oil on the weight of the fibre), passed through a jute softener machine and stored in a bin for piling or conditioning for a period of 24h as commonly practiced in jute mill. The fibres were then successively passed through roller and clearer type jute carding machines (breaker card followed by a finisher card). The finisher card sliver (tape like continuous length of fibre fleece) was then processed through three passages of commercial scale jute drawing machines. The sliver from the third drawing machine was used to spin 100% jute core spunwrapped yarn as well as ordinary jute yarn of 276 tex (weight of 1000 meters of yarn in gram) on standard jute spinning machine. To spin spun-wrapped yarn, the synthetic filament was fed in front of the front roller nip with the help of a suitable gadget. The filament was wrapped round the twisted fibrous assembly during formation of yarn. Twist/meter was maintained as 160. Preparation of woven fabric Before the preparation of fabric, some portion of spun-wrapped yarn sample was bleached with 3% hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2 ) and also dyed in navy blue shade (Fig. 1) with cold brand reactive dye separately. Weaver s beam was produced using this dyed yarn as well as undyed yarn so that stripe and check effect can be produced in the fabric. The yarn were drawn through the holes (commonly known as mail eye) of the heddle and reeds to produce fabric with different weave structures e.g., plain weave, 2/2 twill weave and 2/2 matt weave (Fig. 2a-d) changing the lifting Fig. 1 Photograph showing the developed yarn, both dyed and undyed

3 ROY & BASU : DEVELOPMENT OF NEWER PRODUCTS WITH JUTE YARNS 13 plan of the healds/harness in a jute handloom developed in our institute 2. A total of 56 meters of fabric was produced, the total jute content in which was 97%. Testing of yarn The yarn diameter was measured using a projection microscope with a magnification of 30 under a constant tension of 0.02g/tex. The packing fraction was calculated using the following relationship: Apparent yarn density Packing fraction = Fibre density The tensile properties, such as tenacity and elongation-at-break, of yarns were tested as per the IS standard 8 using a computer-aided Instron tensile tester (Model 4411). Initial modulus and specific work of rupture was evaluated from the load-elongation curve. The bending rigidity of yarn, expressed as specific flexural rigidity, was measured as per the relevant literature using ring-loop method 9. The hairiness of yarns (protruded fibre from yarn surface) was measured using NIRJAFT jute yarn hairiness meter following a standard method 10. The physical and mechanical properties of both ordinary jute yarn and spun-wrapped yarn are given in Table 2. Testing of fabric Tensile behaviour, viz. strength, extensibility, modulus and work of rupture of fabrics was measured in an Instron Tensile Tester as per IS standard 11. Ten readings were taken for each sample. From the average of ten readings of breaking load, fabric tenacity was calculated. Bending modulus of fabric samples was determined by measuring the bending length as per standard cantilever method 12. The dimensional change of the knitted fabrics on washing was evaluated as per BS Abrasion resistance of the fabrics were measured in Martindale abrasion resistance tester and the number of rubbing cycles required to reach the end point was recorded. Bursting strength of fabric samples was determined as per BS Standard The details of the fabric particulars and properties have been included in Table 3. Results and Discussion Yarn development It is observed from Table 2 that though the tenacity of the spun-wrapped yarn is lower in general as Fig. 2 Photograph showing the design of the developed jute fabric (a plain weave, b twill weave, c & d matt weave).

4 14 INDIAN J NAT PROD RESOUR, MARCH 2010 compared to corresponding ordinary yarn but increase of breaking elongation led to a notable increase in specific work of rupture. Increase in breaking extension is apparently due to increase in radial pressure exerted by the covering filament on the corefibre bundle when the yarn was subjected to tensile loading. It is also observed from Table 2 that hairiness of spun-wrapped yarn is much lower in case of all the hair-lengths than the corresponding ordinary jute yarn, which may be due to laying and binding of the hairs on the yarn surface by the filament during yarn formation. Due to this improvement in work of Table 2 Comparative physical properties of ordinary jute and spun-wrapped yarn Yarn properties Ordinary jute yarn Type of yarn Spun-wrapped yarn Blend composition Jute = 100% Jute/PP = 97%/3% Linear density, tex Diameter, mm Packing co-efficient Breaking tenacity, cn/tex Breaking extension, % Initial modulus, cn/tex Specific work of rupture, mj/tex-m Specific flexural rigidity, mnmm /tex Hairiness, Number of hair 3mm per 100m long yarn at the 5mm hair-length setting of 7mm rupture and reduction in hairiness of spun-wrapped yarn as compared to ordinary jute yarn, the weaving efficiency is considerably increased. Fabric development It may be observed from Table 3 that all the three fabrics woven from spun-wrapped yarn with different weaves show considerably lower bending modulus in both warp and weft direction as compared to ordinary jute fabric. The reason may be due to lower flexural rigidity of spun-wrapped yarn as compared to ordinary jute yarn. The considerable reduction in bending modulus of spun-wrapped yarn fabrics helps in easy folding of the fabric during stitching for product development. The tenacity, breaking extension and work of rupture of spun-wrapped yarn fabric in both warp and weft direction is higher than the ordinary jute fabric. The reason may be due to higher work of rupture and less damage of spunwrapped yarn during weaving as compared to ordinary jute yarn. The reduction in hairiness of spunwrapped yarn helps in weaving fabric with less hairy surface which improves the aesthetic appeal of the fabrics and the products made there-from and also increases the longevity due to decrease in fibre shedding from the cloth. Table 3 shows that the shrinkage percentage of the developed fabric is much lower than that of commercial fabric and is also within the permissible limit of 5%. Abrasion resistance of the developed Type of fabric Test Direction Threads/cm Fabric weight, g/m 2 Table 3 Physical properties of different jute fabric Fabric thickness, mm Crimp % Tenacity, cn/tex Breaking extension, % Bending modulus, kg/cm 2 Shrinkage after three cold washing, % Plain weave Warp a spun-wrapped yarn fabric Weft b /2 twill Warp weave spunwrapped yarn Weft fabric 2/2 matt Warp weave spunwrapped yarn Weft fabric Plain weave Warp commercial fabric Weft a the threads laid along the length of the fabric is termed as warp. b the threads laid along the cross direction (with wise) of the fabric is termed as weft. Abrasion resistance, cycles Bursting strength, Kg/cm

5 ROY & BASU : DEVELOPMENT OF NEWER PRODUCTS WITH JUTE YARNS 15 fabrics is very high as compared to commercial jute fabric. The reason may be due to the PP filament binding on the surface of the spun-wrapped yarn from which the fabric is made. Due to this filament binding, the fibre shredding was also not at all visible. Bursting resistance of the developed fabrics is also higher than the commercial fabric. The reason may be attributed to the higher work of rupture of the spunwrapped yarn than ordinary jute yarn. It will not be out of place to mention that some of the fabrics were woven with dyed yarns (dyed with Procian Blue MR, a cold brand reactive dye with 4% shed), which showed good wash fastness of 4 units, rubbing fastness of 4 to 5 units and light fastness of 4 units. The PP filament used was dope dyed (dyed during filament manufacture), which enabled to produce a yarn with twisted effect (Fig. 1). Product design and development Two types of products (Table 4), lap-top bag (Fig. 3a & b) and school bag (Fig. 3c and d) have been selected for development with the fabrics produced as mentioned earlier from spun-wrapped yarn. Due to growing consciousness towards academic future among all walks of life and steep increase in demand and supply of lap-top computers and consequent increase in use of synthetic carry bag/cover resulted in a serious threat to the sustainability of the environment. The natural (jute) fibre content in the developed school bag is approximately 90% and that in the lap-top bag is approximately 85% after considering the weight of zipper and lining materials. Thus the disposability of the developed bags after use will be much better than its synthetic counterpart. It is also a point to note that the high moisture absorption capacity of jute fibre and in turn jute fabrics help in absorbing moisture of perspiration (from the back of the students), which the synthetic bags cannot do at all. Thus, from the hygienic point of view the jute based school bags will be much more user s friendly. The high abrasion resistance, bursting strength and negligible shrinkage on wetting along with good colour fastness of dyed spun-wrapped yarn renders the products highly durable. The cost of a school bag having carrying capacity of at least 5kg will be approximately Rs. 250/- and that in case of a lap-top bag will be around Rs. 300/- at present day price level. Design and construction details Table 4 Details of product developed Lap-top computer bag Product type School bag Product dimension (length width height) 40cm 30cm 6cm 45cm 29cm 13.5cm End uses For carrying lap-top computer For carrying school books, etc. up to 10 kg Natural fibre content 85% 90% Type of seam Lapped seam (Prayer type) Type of sewing machine used Medium duty 1 Needle, 2 Thread Lock Chain stitch sewing machine, Table model, Manually paddle operated Specialty design characteristics Designed to accommodate Lap-top computer with Designed as per ordinary bags made of small accessories, cushioning material at top and synthetic fabrics available in the market. bottom surface between jute fabric and lining material for protection from external impact Type of lining material used Viscose satin weave cloth Cotton poplin cloth Cost/bag (Rs.) Fig. 3 Photograph of the products made from developed fabric (a lap-top bag in open condition, b lap-top bags of different designs, c school bag from front, d - school bag from back side).

6 16 INDIAN J NAT PROD RESOUR, MARCH 2010 The fabrics were stitched (lockstitch) on lapped-seam using medium duty 2-thread, single needle stitching machine. The yarn used for stitching was 55 tex cotton yarn. Stitch density was maintained at 24 stitches/dm. The fabrication and tailoring was done by the local artisans. It was noteworthy that the price of the products mentioned above includes the cost of the polyester zipper. Metallic zipper can also be used, which may, marginally increase the cost of the products. Conclusion It may be concluded from the above study that jute fibre can be utilized for the production of high value carrybags/covers as a better substitute than the synthetic fibre made products of similar type. For the production of these specialty products, specially engineered jute yarns (e.g., spun-wrapped yarn) with improved property parameters is desirable. The design aspects of the fabric should also be selected properly to achieve fabric properties which can meet the property performance of the products in mind. The main advantage of these products is that, jute being a natural fibre is easily biodegradable and so the disposability of the products after use does not pose any threat to maintenance of biodiversity and ecology due to pollution. These natural fibre (jute) based products (made from the spun-wrapped yarn) can be offered at a competitive price in attractive design and colour to the customers. Though only two products (lap-top bag and school bag) used widely, has been reported in the present work, many more products can be developed not only from jute fibre but also from other natural fibres allied to jute. References 1 Kundu BC, Basak KC and Sarcar PB, Jute in India, The Indian Central Jute Committee, Calcutta, 1 st Edition, 1959, Basu G, Effect of selective treatments of jute on its processibility, Ph. D. Thesis, University of Calcutta, India, Roy AN and Basu G, Improvement of a traditional knowledge by development of jacquard shedding based handloom for weaving ornamental jute fabric, Indian J Trad Knowledge, Communicated. 4 Sengupta P, NP Gupta, TK Ghosh, GK Bhattacharya and SK Dey, A Novel Method for Spinning Jute Yarn for Decorative, Textile Res J, 1982, 52, Dey SK, Bhattacharya GK and P Sengupta, Production and Properties of High Performance Jute Yarns, J Textile Insit, 1995, 86(1), Roy AN, Basu G and Bhattacharya GK, An approach to engineer jute based yarn for improvement of its property performance, J Inst Engineers (India), Text Engg Div, 89, Indian Standards, IS: 271, The revised specification for grading of white and tossa/daise uncut Indian raw jute (Bureau of Indian Standards, New Delhi), Indian Standards, IS: 1670, Determination of breaking load and elongation at break of single strand (Bureau of Indian Standards, New Delhi, India), Sinha AK and Basu G, Studies on physical properties of jute and acrylic blended bulked yarn, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 2001, 26, Basu G, Roy AN, Majumder A, Ghosh SN and Mukherjee A, Measurement of hairiness of jute yarns by discrete and integral method, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 1999, 24, Indian Standards, IS: 1969, Method for determination of breaking load and elongation of woven fabric (Bureau of Indian Standards, New Delhi, India), Booth J E, Fabric dimension and properties (Bending modulus), In: Principles of Textile Testing, Newness- Butterworths Publishing, London, 3 rd Edition, 1968, pp