Photography by Hannah Thiessen

Transcription

1 Photography by Hannah Thiessen Yarn: 1 skein Oink Pigments Sock Gauge: 32 sts and 48 rounds/4inches (10cm) in stockinette Needles: US 1 (2.25 mm) circular or size to achieve gauge Size: S/Narrow, M/Average, L/Wide Notions: 2 Stitch markers (including one locking stitch marker). Yarn needle for weaving in ends Abbreviations: K2TOG = Knit two stitches together. K = Knit. KFB = Knit into the front and the back of the stitch. P = Purl. S1 WYIF = Slip 1 stitch as if to purl, with yarn in front. Sts = Stitches. Notes: The length of the foot is adjustable. Select size based on the width of the recipient s foot. Pattern is written for toe up socks. If converting to top down socks, work the heel as written. Socks can be knit with DPNs, Magic Loop or 2 circular needles. The internet is a good resource for help with any of the suggested techniques. Page 1 of 5

2 Chart 1 Chart 2 Round 1: K2, P2. Round 2: P1, K2, P1. Round 3: P2, K2. Round 4: K1, P2, K1. Round 1: P2, K2. Round 2: P1, K2, P1. Round 3: K2, P2. Round 4: K1, P2, K1. Legend Instructions: Cast on [8, 10, 12] stitches per needle, using Judy s Magic Cast On or preferred method. For DPNs, use only 2 needles for the cast on. ([16, 20, 24] sts total.) TOE: Distribute stitches evenly across needles. The first [8, 10, 12] sts will be the Front and the remaining [8, 10, 12] sts will be the Back stitches. Round 1: Knit. Place locking stitch marker on Front Stitches for reference. (Optional) Round 2 Front Stitches: KFB, K to last two Front stitches, KFB, K1. Round 2 Back Stitches: KFB, K to last two Back stitches, KFB, K1. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until [28, 32, 36] Front stitches and [28, 32, 36] Back stitches are on the needles. [56, 64, 72] total stitches. FOOT: NOTE: Two charts are provided. For a symmetric pair of socks, knit one sock for each chart. For an asymmetric pair of socks, use the same chart for both socks (it doesn t matter which chart is used). Rounds 1-4: Work selected Chart across Front stitches, knit Back stitches. Page 2 of 5

3 Repeat rounds 1-4 until the back side of the work is approximately 1.5 (4 cm) shorter than the bottom of the recipient s foot, ending after Row 2.The front side of the work will be slightly shorter due to the stitch pattern. HEEL SETUP: Work Row 3 of selected Chart across front stitches. HEEL: The heel will be worked across the back stitches only. Decreasing short rows: Row 1: Knit until two stitches remain on left needle. Turn to work a wrong side row (inside of the sock). Row 2: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle as if to purl. Move working yarn over the stitches (double stitch). Bring working yarn between the needles to the front and purl until two stitches remain on left needle. Turn to work a right side row (outside of the sock). Row 3: WYIF, Slip 1 stitch to the right needle as if to purl. Move working yarn over the stitches (double stitch). Knit to the double stitch created on the previous row. Turn to work a wrong side row (inside of the sock). Row 4: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle as if to purl. Move working yarn over the stitches (double stitch). Bring working yarn between the needles to the front and purl to the double stitch created on the previous row. Turn to work a right side row (outside of the sock). Work rows 3 & 4 until [9, 11, 13] stitches remain between the double stitches. Page 3 of 5

4 Row 5: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle. Move working yarn over the right needle towards the back. Knit until one stitch remains on left needle. Turn to work a wrong side row (inside of the sock). NOTE: The double stitch is worked as one stitch by knitting through both front legs together. Row 6: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle as if to purl. Move working yarn over the stitches (double stitch). Bring working yarn between the needles to the front and purl until one stitch remains on the left needle. Turn to work a right side row (outside of the sock). NOTE: The double stitch is worked as one stitch by purling through both front legs together. Increasing short rows: Row 1: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle. Move working yarn over the right needle towards the back. Knit [17, 20, 23] stitches. Turn to work a wrong side row (inside of the sock). Row 2: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle as if to purl. Move working yarn over the stitches (double stitch). Bring working yarn between the needles to the front and purl [9, 11, 13] stitches. Turn to work a right side row (outside of the sock). Row 3: WYIF, slip 1 stitch to the right needle. Move working yarn over the right needle towards the back. Knit to 1 stitch past the double stitch. Turn to work a wrong side row (inside of the sock). Row 4: WYIF, Slip 1 stitch to the right needle as if to purl. Move working yarn over the stitches (double stitch). Bring working yarn between the needles to the front and purl to 1 stitch past the double stitch. Move working yarn to the back and turn to work a right side row (outside of the sock). Work rows 3 & 4 until 2 stitches remain on the left needle after a row 4. Page 4 of 5

5 Row 5: Move working yarn over the right needle towards the back. The slipped stitch on the right needle now looks like 2 stitches (double stitch). Bring working yarn between the needles to the front and knit to the end of the row. The heel is complete. Switch to working in the round for the remainder of the sock. USING CHART 1 USING CHART 2 LEG SETUP Round 1: Work Row 4 of Chart 1 across Front Stitches, knit 26, 30, 34 stitches, K2TOG. ([55, 63, 71] stitches). Round 1: Work Row 4 of Chart 2 across Back Stitches, knit 27, 31, 35 stitches, KFB. ([57, 65, 73] stitches). Place a marker to indicate the beginning of the row before starting the Leg section. LEG *K2, P2* around until leg is desired length. End after a row that starts K2, P2. *P2, K2* around until leg is desired length. End after a row that starts P2, K2. NOTE: Working the indicated four stitch pattern in the round across an odd number of stitches automatically creates a spiral effect. CUFF Round 1: *K1, P1* to the last stitch, KFB. Round 1: *K1, P1* to the last 3 stitches, K1, P2tog. Round 2: *K1, P1*. Round 2: *K1, P1*. Repeat Round 2 until ribbing is 1 (2.5 cm) or desired length. BINDOFF Bind off using Jenny s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off (JSSBO) or preferred stretchy bind off. Jessica learned to knit from her mother and grandmother at an early age. Years later, after earning her engineering degree, she picked up some needles and yarn to fill her new found spare time. Always one to do things her own way, she started improvising her own designs. Her friends, frustrated because there was no pattern to make what she was making, eventually succeeded in encouraging her to publish her designs. Page 5 of 5