Right from the introduction of its first finely crafted timepieces, Zannetti distinguished itself by the extreme finesse of the details gracing its

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Kristian Greene
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2 Right from the introduction of its first finely crafted timepieces, Zannetti distinguished itself by the extreme finesse of the details gracing its personalized watches

3 SU RT

4 H M E W T H E S - R O M - SU RT RE EZEL add 0 EZEL OLOR WHITE EZEL add 0 K ENGRVING K STNR add 0 customized design add 100 STRP STRP add 0 rubber rubber and leather LK RUER LK LETHER brown LETHER orange LETHER blue LETHER green LETHER

5 H M E W T H E S - R O M - SU RT 4 IL ESIGN and color orozo engraved ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add Engraved rass/silver customized design add 800 gate ameo add 2.500

6 H M E W T H E S - R O M - SU RT 4 IL ESIGN and color hamplevé enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add hamplevé on mother-of-pearl ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add Wood rown or black wood add 0 ustomized design add 1.000

7 REGENT

8 H M E W T H E S - R O M - REGENT ENGRVE customized design add 100 EZEL MULTIOLOR STONE Price to be defined IMONS Price to be defined

9 REGENT Wood ustomized design add gate ameo ustomized design add IL ESIGN and color orozo engraved ustomized design add 1.000

10 H M E W T H E S - R O M - REGENT hamplevé enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add hamplevé on mother-of-pearl ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add IL ESIGN and color Traslucent enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add asrelief in gold ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add 1.500

11 REGENT Gold yellow 18 Kt. add 0 Gold white 18 Kt. Gold red 18 Kt. (see price list for price) (see price list for price) SE MTERIL Steel PV black finished add 500

12 H M E W T H E S - R O M - REGENT ENGRVING K STNR add 0 customized design add 100 EZEL STRP LLIGTOR leather add 0 STEEL RELET 600 STRP rown LETHER blue LETHER LK LETHER STEEL RELET

13 MGNIFIUM

14 H M E W T H E S - R O M - MGNIFIUM ENGRVE customized design add 100 EZEL MULTIOLOR STONE Price to be defined IMONS Price to be defined

15 MGNIFIUM Wood ustomized design add gate ameo ustomized design add IL ESIGN and color Jade engraved ustomized design add 1.000

H M E W T H E S - R O M - MGNIFIUM hamplevé enamel

500 orozo engraved ustomized design add 1.

hamplevé on mother-of-pearl ifferent color add 0

16 H M E W T H E S - R O M - MGNIFIUM hamplevé enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add orozo engraved ustomized design add IL ESIGN and color Traslucent enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add hamplevé on mother-of-pearl ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add 2.000

17 MGNIFIUM Steel add 0 Steel black finished add 500 SE MTERIL

18 H M E W T H E S - R O M - MGNIFIUM ENGRVING K STNR add 0 customized design add 100 EZEL STRP LLIGTOR leather add 0 STEEL RELET 600 STRP rown LETHER blue LETHER LK LETHER STEEL RELET

19 GLITORE

20 H M E W T H E S - R O M - GLITORE ENGRVE ENMELLE customized design add 100 ENGRVE customized design add 100 EZEL MULTIOLOR STONE Price to be defined IMONS Price to be defined

21 GLITORE Wood ustomized design add gate ameo ustomized design add IL ESIGN and color Jade engraved ustomized design add 1.000

000 IL ESIGN and color Traslucent enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized

22 H M E W T H E S - R O M - GLITORE hamplevé enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add orozo engraved ustomized design add IL ESIGN and color Traslucent enamel ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add hamplevé on mother-of-pearl ifferent color add 0 ustomized design add 2.000

23 GLITORE Gold white 18 Kt. Gold red 18 Kt. (see price list for price) (see price list for price) ronze add 500 SE MTERIL Steel PV black finished add 500

24 H M E W T H E S - R O M - GLITORE ENGRVING K STNR add 0 customized design add 100 EZEL STRP LLIGTOR leather add 0 STEEL RELET 600 STRP rown LETHER blue LETHER LK LETHER STEEL RELET

Zannetti Ovum Jewellery Owl, ref. R5G.1R-1.Y.. ase with 18kt gold owl embellished with diamonds and rubies. ial hand-engraved and enamelled base in mother of pearl.

25 Zannetti Ovum Jewellery Owl, ref. R5G.1R-1.Y.. ase with 18kt gold owl embellished with diamonds and rubies. ial hand-engraved and enamelled base in mother of pearl. utomatic mechanical Swiss movement personalised. Limited and numbered edition IL: THE FE OF THE WTH Truly the face of the watch, the dial is the expression of its innermost nature, displays its functions, and gives the watch its unique identity. In this sense, the beauty of a Fine Watch dial is the most visible expression of the movement that brings it to life. Indeed, the layout of the mechanisms, wheels and complications that form the movement dictate the dial s appearance, in particular the position of the hands, sub-dials, apertures and other indications that compose it. The designers and craftsmen who imagine the dial therefore do so with the specifications imposed by the movement in mind. ial-making is an art and a craft in its own right that demands considerable expertise, and very often secrets that are handed down from one generation to the next. Visually, the dial must satisfy a dual requirement: it must be pleasing to the eye and legible at a glance. host of information must be harmoniously conveyed by means of hands or apertures on a surface that often barely exceeds a few square centimetres. Often a dial is separated into several sections and, beyond its refinement and beauty, its decor must highlight and distinguish these different zones. To achieve this, the Fine Watch dial-maker masters artisanal techniques that are often centuries-old. The base of the dial is a sheet, sometimes gently cambered, of gold, silver or copper to which the dial-maker rivets tiny pins. He then traces the inner and outer contours of the hour-circle and other indicators. The dial is now ready to be decorated with engine-turning (guillochage). In this centuries-old technique, which only a handful of craftsmen master, straight or circular lines are cut into the surface of the metal. Each line is just a few tenths of a millimetre wide and three to four hundredths deep. These lines overlap and intertwine to form an infinite variety of patterns that catch and reflect the light. One of the final stages is to diamond-drill then file the tiny holes that will carry the arbours for the hands. Space is hollowed out for the sub-dials, and applied numerals and markers are added to the hour-circle. Some Fine Watch dials are also enamelled, painted or set with diamonds and other precious stones. Thus each dial has its own, unique face.

26 WONERS OF ENMEL Enamel is transparent glass colored with metal oxides which, when applied to metal and heated to between 800 and 1,200, melts and is bonded by fusion to the metal. Three thin layers of this enamel, when polished, give the uniquely pure and luminous white of a Fine Watch dial. Patterns can then be acid-engraved or manually engraved, and numerals and other markings transferred. On a flinqué dial or an engine-turned dial, translucent enamel covers the metal base which has first been engraved with concentric lines or circles. Superb coloured enamels are obtained by adding different metal oxides to transparent enamel. They are applied to the metal (usually gold) base with a quill or a very fine brush. The enamel is fired and the process repeated as many times as is necessary to obtain the desired colour. Fine Watch is enamelled using any of the three principal techniques. loisonné The enamellist traces the contours of the pattern using fine gold wires, not even the width of a hair. The cells formed by these wires are then filled with layer after layer of enamel. The enamellist performs this operation up to sixty times, and fires the piece twelve or fifteen times, as each colour fuses at a different temperature. hamplevé The engraver incises the metal to form the details of the chosen motif. The enamellist then fills these hollows with enamel, one colour at a time, firing each one in the furnace. Miniature painting on enamel This technique, which appeared circa , can be likened to oil painting. The miniaturist outlines his subject on a surface that has been enamelled on both sides. The colour is then gradually built up using finely-ground enamel mixed to consistency with essential oil and fired between each application. The softest colours are usually applied last of all, and fired a final time. Even at this ultimate stage, a blast of heat can still irremediably erase all or part of the work. Only at the very end of this long process will the enamellist discover whether his work is a success, or not. The piece is red-hot when taken out of the furnace then blackens as it cools down until the miracle of the colours is finally revealed. Enameling is fraught with challenges but perhaps no aspect of it is as difficult as the creation of a painting in enamel. Painting in vitreous enamel is so demanding that in the past, masters of the craft such as the famous Huaut family of Geneva were the recipients of honors and appointments as painter miniaturists to noble and royal courts. The two greatest challenges in painting in vitreous enamel are the need for successive firings, and the fact that colors cannot be mixed to create new ones. The former is an aspect, of course, of all enamel work but the number of firings increases as the depth and variety of colors achieved increases. The latter presents a great challenge to the enamellist the fact that colors cannot be mixed means that variation and gradation in color have to be achieved through the careful use of layered firings as well as exquisitely challenging control of the distribution of individual granules of enamel (rather like Pointillist painting.) Flinqué guilloché ( engine turning) Overlaid with translucent colored enamel. This is the technique of placing enamel over guilloché (or in some cases engraved metal) surfaces, which both increases the difficulty as well as the risk of the enameling process. The execution of the guilloche, needless to say, must be flawless, and rejection of the dial due to firing problems means not only a loss of the enamel work but also of the guilloché as well. The payoff for success, of course, is a unique shimmering finish in which the enamel is illuminated both from in front and from behind by the myriad reflections from the mirror-bright surface of the engine turning. hamplevé enameling capitalizes on the affinity of enamel work for clean, clearly delineated geometric areas, giving a pronounced visual strength in contrast to the delicacy of cloisonné. The hollowed out sections of the metal dial create wells into which powdered enamel is placed and fired, and the resulting juxtaposition of areas of clean, clear and brilliant color have the animation and liveliness of the late works of the great modernist painter and master of color, Henri Matisse. Enameller Enamel is made from silica, feldspar and kaolin which have been crushed into a powder then combined with metal oxides to obtain the required colour. The enameller mixes this powder with oil or water, depending how it will be applied to a polished base in copper, gold or silver. In certain cases gold paillons are applied to the base layers to produce a shimmering pattern underneath the enamel. Each successive layer of enamel is fired at high temperature. Once the enamel has fused to the metal, it is unalterable. watch dial can be embellished with enamelled patterns, portraits or scenes using champlevé, cloisonné, cloisonné à jour or miniature painting techniques.

27 GLOSSRY pplique Raised numeral or hour-marker, applied to or riveted to the dial. t Zannetti, appliques are sometimes diamond-set. rabic Usual way of showing the numerals. rabic numerals: s opposed to Roman numerals: I, II,III... ack The lower part of the case, fixed beneath the case middle. The case, either in metal or in sapphire crystal to reveal the movement, may be of the screw-down, snap-on, screw-on or hinged dust cover type. Screw-down back: the back and the case middle are respectively fitted with a screw thread and are thus screwed to each other. Snap-on back: the back is held on to the case middle by pressure. Screw-on back: the back is held on to the case middle by four screws. Hinged dust cover: the sapphire crystal is held on to the case middle by pressure, and the dust cover is hinged to the case middle, enabling one to open to reveal the movement. ezel Upper part of the case which holds the glass. It is fixed above the case middle. urin Engraver s chisel. aliber Originally synonymous with size or dimension. Watchmakers then began to use the term to refer to the movement. arat unit of the gold purity index for gold alloys. Pure or fine gold weighs 24 carats. Watches and jewellery are crafted from 18-carat or 750 gold, an alloy containing 18/24ths or 75% of pure gold. unit of weight for precious stones. One carat corresponds to 0.2 grams. ase The watch case is generally composed of three parts: the case middle, the bezel and the case back. ase middle The middle part of the case, placed between the bezel and the back. It houses the movement. hamfering lso known as beveling or in French, anglage. Here, the sharp edge between the surface and the flank of a component is manually cut or filed away to a smooth 45 curve, followed by polishing with a mechanical buffer. chamfer is typically used to increase resistance to wear, or for aesthetic reasons. hamplevé Hand engraving technique. hamplevé consists of hollowing out a metal plate with a flat graver, thus forming small cavities to receive the enamel. hronograph Watch complication enabling measurement of the duration of an event. classic chronograph comprises a chronograph or seconds hand circling the dial and another hand adding up the minutes on a counter or totalizer. Some have additional counters. e careful not to confuse a chronograph with a chronometer. hronometer watch featuring high precision certified by an official body. In Switzerland, rating certificates are granted, on a one-by-one basis, by the OS (Swiss Official hronometer Testing Institute). e careful not to confuse a chronometer with a chronograph. ircular graining In French, called perlage due to the finished resemblance to a row of tiny pearls. Here, the main plate and attached bridges are etched with a pattern of interlaced circles or bead shapes. To create the pattern, the flat end of a piece of pegwood coated with emery paste is fitted into a rotating head and pressed meticulously down on the plate to make perfectly linear rows. ircular satin brushing polishing technique used for a case, and resulting in a velvety, tunnel-like image. ircular satin finish To form fine circular lines on the surface of a metal movement component, using a hand lathe or fine emery paper. ounter In a classic chronograph, a subdial indicating the time elapsed in minutes. There are also counters for hours or fractions of a second. rown button (which is often fluted), operated between the thumb and forefinger that is pulled into various positions and turned, generally to set the time or adjust the date. On mechanical watches, the crown (or winding crown) also serves to wind the movement. ial Plate with a metal base, visible through a glass, which carries certain indications such as the hours, minutes and seconds. On Zannetti watches, dials base are generally in brass or silver. iamond Precious stone: pure crystallized carbon, generally colorless, occasionally pink, yellow or blue in colour. diamond, which is exceptionally hard, scratches all other bodies, but can only be scratched by itself. Electrolysis hemical decomposition achieved by the action of an electric current. ertain metals are electrolyzed in order to apply them on others in fine layers. Embossing Stamping a motif in metal with imprints embossed using a press. Emerald Green colored gemstone, a variety of beryl. Most widely used gemstone cut for emeralds. Engraving deeply creative skill where aesthetically pleasing shapes and flourishes are etched on cases and dials. The artist first creates the design with a pencil sketch, then transfers it to the metal surface with a burin for fine lines, or a graver for broader furrows, focusing on the tiny canvas through a binocular microscope. Fine working Part of the case hand-finishing. This stage includes trimming or filing off of residue material, and it s here that attachments are soldered, hinges are made for cases with dust covers and their openings adjusted, and preparations are made for polishing. Fold-over clasp clasp that opens by folding over, without being detached from the two parts of the bracelet. Galvanization lso known as electroplating, this is the process of applying a protective coating over a metal to prevent rusting, which helps keep the material free from impediment (damp or sea air can all create corrosion over time) and in perfect working order for much longer. uring galvanization, one metal is electrochemically covered with another for example, bridges and plates are protected by a fine layer of rhodium. Electroplating can also be used to change a dial s color. Gemmologist Specialist of fine stones and precious stones, scientifically called gems.

28 GLOSSRY Gem-setter raftsman who sets fine stones or precious stones. Gemsetting Precious stones diamonds, rubies, sapphires or emeralds are set manually at Zannetti, in the traditional way. They are never adhesively bonded, but positioned ultra-securely by folding over the metal collars that surround them. Stones must be fastidiously placed (level, pointing in the same direction and all at the same height) to bring out their full shimmer and radiance. Glass Thin transparent plate through which one reads off the time, and which protects the dial. glass may also be fitted on the case back to reveal the movement. The glasses used for Zannetti watches are always in scratch-resistant sapphire and may thus also be referred to as sapphire crystals. Hand Metal part which points to various indications on the dial. t Zannetti, it may take a variety of shapes and forms, Hour marker Symbolic character serving to indicate the subdivisions of time, on the dial. The hour markers, whether pointed baton or rounded baton, may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are to be distinguished from numerals, which are characters representing numbers. Jewel In a movement, a synthetic ruby that serves to reduce friction on the staffs of the pivots. Jewels belong to the other parts category. Lugs (horns) Parts extending from the case middle between which a spring bar holds the strap or bracelet. Luminescent Which emits light and is therefore visible at night. The luminescent substance, applied by Zannetti on the hands, numerals or hour-markers is non radioactive. Manually wound manually wound movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by hand (using the winding crown). Movement There are three types of movements, or calibers, which drive Patek Philippe watches: Mechanical manually wound movements Mechanical self-winding movements Quartz movements Numeral haracter representing a number used to indicate the units of time on the dial. The rabic, Roman or reguet style numerals may be flat (painted) or raised (appliques). They are different from symbolic characters such as hour markers. Platinum Precious metal. 950 platinum (95% pure platinum and 5% other metals) is used for making watches. It is the hardest material of all to work and tools often break in the process. It takes three to four times longer than working gold. Polishing One of the most important finishing operations, polishing brings each aspect of a watch into sharp relief, highlighting everything from gemsetting and enameling to the engraving. Power reserve complication that indicates the state of the power reserve: the time during which a mechanical movement can continue running without being wound, ranging from 48 hours to 10 days for Patek Philippe watches. Push-button (push-piece) button finger pressed to activate certain functions, such as those of a chronograph. Relief Hand engraving technique, also called pounced ornament. Relief is a trompe l oeil or optical illusion type of modelling in the manner of bas-relief, created using a graver. Rotor omponent of self-winding movements, synonymous with oscillating weight. The rotor is a heavy part which rotates or oscillates thanks to wrist movements and automatically winds the mainspring. Sapphire Transparent synthetic material for watch glasses (or crystals) which has the property of being scratch-resistant. Gemstone, a variety of corundum. It is generally blue, but may be pink, yellow, etc. Satin brushing polishing technique where the surface of the metal is drawn out or smoothed with a tool coated in fine emery paste to achieve a matt appearance and a finely striated effect. Self-winding self-winding movement is a mechanical movement that is wound by wrist movements thanks to the oscillating weight (or rotor). Skeleton Refers to a movement that is open worked and engraved by hand. Small seconds hand Seconds indicated on a small subdial, and not in the center. Strap Strip/band of leather (or other non-metal material) that holds the watch to the wrist. Time zones Simultaneous indication of the time in several time zones. The most common models are dual time zone watches which give home time and local time in the place one is traveling to. Winding Winding the spring of a mechanical watch. This winding may be done manually or automatically by wrist movements.

Press release BASELWORLD Patek Philippe, Geneva April Patek Philippe World Time watch Ref The watch as a work of art

Press release BASELWORLD Patek Philippe, Geneva April Patek Philippe World Time watch Ref The watch as a work of art Press release BASELWORLD 2008 Patek Philippe, Geneva April 2008 Patek Philippe World Time watch Ref. 5131 The watch as a work of art At this year s Baselworld, Patek Philippe is unveiling the World Time