Poland's Primeval Forests

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1 Naturetrek April 2018 Camberwell Beauty European Grass Snake European Pygmy Owl Group watching Bison Report and images by Richard Bashford Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Poland's Primeval Forests Tour participants: Richard Bashford (Leader), Piotr Debowski (Local Guide) and six Naturetrek clients Day 1 Friday 27th April UK to Warsaw and Białoweiza Our small but perfectly formed group met at London s Heathrow airport for our morning flight to Warsaw. We were leaving drizzle so were pleased to find Warsaw in sunshine less than two hours later a little earlier than expected. Our local guide Piotr arrived a minute after we d cleared customs having found Stuart who d found another exit. With everyone accounted for, including our driver Warcek, we got on the road and headed towards the Russian Fish Ponds in South Warsaw. A few minutes later, we were out of the bus and birding, seeing a host of species one might expect back home except that the Reed and Sedge Warblers were joined by Great Reed Warblers croaking away like frogs. More familiar wildfowl including Gadwall, Pochard and Goldeneye and it was again feeling like home until a White Pelican flew over! This was according to Piotr, the twenty-second record for Poland and this bird had been in the area for several days. The bar was raised somewhat in the first half hour of our trip. It would be unusual to escape Warsaw without some traffic and today was no exception. Our slow progress coincided with a rain shower, so good planning so far. Our slightly late lunch was enjoyed at the Karmiza restaurant where even picking seemingly small choices from the menu resulted in a plateful of food. We gave it our best shot though! Back outside just before getting back on the bus, a male Montagu s Harrier floated over beautiful. We still had some distance to travel as we headed east on a quiet road. Of course this route wasn t without stops and during the afternoon we watched Cranes, Whinchat, Grey-headed Wagtail and of course White Storks. We made it to our lovely guest house in Białoweiza village just after ready to relax and enjoy our first meal before catching up with some sleep. Day 2 Saturday 28th April Białoweiza and Czerlonka area Although it was going to be a long day, we acted on news that early yesterday morning Bison had been feeding in meadows just north of the village, and we therefore had a pre-breakfast walk to search for them. Sightings of Bison are not guaranteed by any means and would be a highlight of the tour, so we all agreed it was worth an early start to try for them. It was a beautiful morning, with just a light breeze (shorthand for we didn t see any Bison ), but for our first bit of forest wildlife watching, it was really lovely starting with seven Red Deer walking slowly across the misty meadow. As we scanned and walked, we saw Hawfinch, Tree Pipit, Hoopoe, Great Grey Shrike, many Whinchat, Wheatears, Cranes, Red Foxes, and jangling Corn Buntings. Walking back through the Palace Park, we saw Wryneck, Middle-spotted Woodpecker, Spotted, Pied and Collared Flycatcher, Golden Oriole and a large flock of Waxwings. Phew! Back for our first breakfast, we felt we d acclimatised to Poland rather well. Today was going to be a day of the forest and we stayed local, exploring the forest roads and tracks. Firstly the open area around the Narewka river where we saw our first Lesser-spotted Eagles. Searching for Grey-headed Naturetrek July 18 1

3 Woodpeckers, we had to make do with the mournful calls rather than a sighting, but a highlight was a Camberwell Beauty perching on Elizabeth but finally settling on a branch for us all to enjoy. The area near Teremiski gave us Lesser-spotted Woodpeckers and Firecrests. Not a bad morning, but we were all ready for lunch back at the guest house. We d planned two more excursions for the rest of the day. After a little siesta, we all hopped in the minibus for a couple more hours. The weather continued to be good and we were all slightly more refreshed from a little bit of down time. But energy levels were about to be topped up. I ve visited Poland about fifteen times and driven down tracks and roads gazing into the forest thinking Surely, one or two of the 650 Bison in the forest could be visible, but this never happens.until today! I looked to my right and two enormous brown shapes (with horns), were standing there. I shouted Bison!, so we slowed down quite quickly, stopped and reversed. We all managed to see them but Piotr suggested we get out and walk into the forest a little. It was a good choice, as we found the two bull Bison feeding happily, actually walking towards us as they did so. We were awestruck watching them and taking many photos. Behind us, we d caused a bit of a scene. Several other vehicles slowed down and people were getting out. Clearly, finding Bison in the middle of the day is big news. Perhaps as many as thirty passers-by stopped for views, Bison selfies etc. Just amazing! We left them to carry on feeding and headed on to Czerlonka where there was a good amount of spruce. As we walked, we heard a few woodpeckers but we had to work at it to see them. After several attempts, we tracked down a pair of fabulous Three-toed Woodpeckers, the female of which stayed long enough for views though the telescope. As we watched, a Nutcracker flew overhead. We retraced our steps and found a pair of Crested Tits and then a flyover Black Woodpecker. We got back to the guesthouse at 5.30 for a slightly early dinner at Our plan was to try for Pygmy Owl which is a bird best searched for around sunset. The first stop was the best with a pretty good chance. Nothing! The light was going, but Piotr had another site up his sleeve and as we arrived and walked a short distance up a sandy track, it didn t seem too hopeful. However, five minutes later we were watching an incredible Pygmy Owl calling away. Not a bad end to the day and time for a beer. Day 3 Sunday 29th April Białoweiza s Palace Park, Siemianówka Reservoir area, Białoweiza strict reserve. We awoke to another beautiful sunny morning, and the weather remained that way all day. We had a bit of a liein this morning and went for a short pre-breakfast walk a little later at 6.00am. Our first target was finding a perched Thrush Nightingale, which we did just across the road from the guest house. Next was to look for a Bluethroat which we d heard singing the day before and amazingly, as we reached the river, we heard it. Even more obliging, there it was singing in the trees and good telescope views were enjoyed by all. Bluethroat is not an expected bird in this area although they do occur more regularly in the marshes, so a singing bird near your guest house is not to be missed! After breakfast, we headed north from Hajnówka, towards the mighty Siemianówka reservoir. After a couple of short stops, Piotr took us to Lewsze where we were very pleased to see at least five Citrine Wagtails. Also a few waders such as Redshank, Wood Sandpiper and Black-tailed Godwits were present. As we returned to the minibus, we found two Grass Snakes. At the south side of the reservoir itself, we had our picnic lunch before exploring the area. Whiskered and Black Terns, White-tailed and Lesser-spotted Eagles, Whooper Swans and best for many (and certainly closest!), Penduline Tit by the nest. We returned to the guest house for a quick mid- 2 Naturetrek July 18

4 afternoon refresh before heading out to the Strict Reserve and a tour led by our guide Arak. It is not possible to visit this special area without a guide and we had the best. Arak took us around, explaining the history, pointing out the plants and providing us with a wealth of knowledge about the forest, unmanaged since the 1920s. As for other wildlife, several Firecrests, Collared Flycatchers, Lesser-spotted Woodpeckers and a Green Sandpiper were seen. Back at the guest house just after 7.00pm, there was time to freshen up before potato cake, pork and salad. Day 4 Monday 30th April Białoweiza, Czerlonka and Dojlidy and journey to Warsaw airport At 6.00am we set off on another pre-breakfast walk to the Palace Park in the hope of finding a Grey-headed Woodpecker which isn t normally a difficult species to find, and we had heard several. Alas, woodpecker activity was low this morning, but we did see a Wryneck in the guest house garden and had two sightings of Middlespotted Woodpecker. We also saw our first Red Squirrel of the tour. We were back for breakfast at 7:30 and then had another trip out to a spruce area armed with some information from Arak and Piotr s GPS. By 9:00am, we arrived at the disused railway line and walked along noting a few Map Butterflies and a Wood White. After a couple of minutes, we were waiting by a broken birch tree with a neat fresh hole near the top, and after only another minute or two a White-backed Woodpecker appeared and went in and came out again. A little while later, another did the same and then the other. Great views of this species. We tried another spot of spruce searching for Hazel Hen a very hard species to find and we didn t do very well creeping through the forest. Back on the track, two promptly walked across! That s nature for you. Back at the guest house, we freshened up and packed our bags and after thanking the staff, we got on the road at 11:35. Our aim was to get some time at Dojlidy Fishponds while factoring in enough time to accommodate the unpredictable traffic to Warsaw. We also needed lunch of course so when we reached Bialystok around 1:00pm, we opted for the roadside service station option which was pretty well stocked if not the most scenic of lunch stops. By 1:45 we were at the Fishponds and faced with a large colony of Black-headed Gulls. Here we found a stunning summer plumaged Black-necked Grebe. A few Whiskered Terns fed with the gulls and while we looked at them, several Little Gulls were found. On the next lake, there were around 16 Little Gulls and our other main target, Red-necked Grebe, while In the background, a Bittern boomed. This was certainly a worthwhile stop-off leaving just the remainder of the journey to Warsaw. The expected roadworks resulted in a steady flow of traffic for about 15km but nothing too serious. The remainder of the journey was surprisingly quiet as we entered the Warsaw environs and we made it to the airport a full three hours before departure at We entered the charmingly titled Kiss and go parking area where we were allowed a full seven minutes to unpack and say goodbye to Piotr and Warcek. Warcek had displayed the patience needed to be a tour driver and Piotr had seemingly boundless enthusiasm for finding wildlife for us to see. It had worked out very well and the four day trip felt like a far longer holiday - we d certainly used the available time well. We perhaps struggled a little with the late spring and less active birds, but we saw plenty, including some unexpected species. And then of course, there were the Bison. That moment staring eye to eye with such magnificent beasts will stay with us. Naturetrek July 18 3

5 We landed at Heathrow and said our farewells. Thanks to the group for their company and interest for the last few days. It s been a fabulous little trip! Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! European Bison 4 Naturetrek July 18

6 Species Lists Birds ( =recorded but not counted; H = heard only) April Common name Scientific name Greylag Goose Anser anser Mute Swan Cygnus olor Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus 2 4 Gadwall Mareca strepera Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Northern Shoveler Spatula clypeata 6 7 Garganey Spatula querquedula 1 8 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 12 9 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula 1 11 Hazel Grouse Tetrastes bonasia 2 12 Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus 3 H 2 13 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis 1 14 Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena 1 15 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis 3 17 White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 1 18 White Stork Ciconia ciconia 19 Eurasian Bittern Botaurus stellaris H 20 Great Egret Ardea alba Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Lesser Spotted Eagle Clanga pomarina Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla 3 28 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Common Crane Grus grus Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius 1 33 Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola 1 34 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Common Redshank Tringa totanus 2 37 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus H 2 38 Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 1 39 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Ruff Calidris pugnax Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Little Gull Hydrocoloeus minutus Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans 6 44 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus Common Tern Sterna hirundo White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus 1 47 Black Tern Chlidonias niger 5 Naturetrek July 18 5

7 April Common name Scientific name Rock Dove Columba livia Stock Dove Columba oenas Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 51 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus H 1+H 2 53 Tawny Owl Strix aluco H 54 Eurasian Pygmy Owl Glaucidium passerinum 1 55 Common Swift Apus apus 3 56 Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla 5 1+H 1 58 Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dryobates minor Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocoptes medius 2 H 2 60 White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus 2 63 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius 1 64 European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1 65 Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus H H 66 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1 70 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Eurasian Magpie Pica pica Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula soemmeringii 74 Rook Corvus frugilegus 2 75 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix Northern Raven Corvus corax Bohemian Waxwing Bombycilla garrulus 46 H 78 Coal Tit Periparus ater European Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus Marsh Tit Poecile palustris 2 81 Willow Tit Poecile montanus H 82 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus Great Tit Parus major Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus H 2 85 Woodlark Lullula arborea 1 H 86 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis Sand Martin Riparia riparia 1 88 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common House Martin Delichon urbicum Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 1 91 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita 1 3 H 3 93 Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 2 97 Savi's Warbler Locustella luscinioides H 2H H 2H 98 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Naturetrek July 18

8 April Common name Scientific name Garden Warbler Sylvia borin Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla Goldcrest Regulus regulus H H Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes H Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris H 106 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris Common Blackbird Turdus merula Fieldfare Turdus pilaris Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Bluethroat Luscinia svecica H European Robin Erithacus rubecula Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia H H 1+H 1+H 114 European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca H 115 Collared Flycatcher Ficedula albicollis 5 H Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus H 118 Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe House Sparrow Passer domesticus Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 1 H Dunnock Prunella modularis H 123 Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava flava White Wagtail Motacilla alba Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula European Greenfinch Chloris chloris H Common Linnet Linaria cannabina European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis European Serin Serinus serinus 1 H Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Mammals 1 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes Red Deer Cervus elaphus 7 3 Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus European Bison Bison bonasus 2 5 Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris 1 6 Bank Vole Clethrionomys glareolus 1 7 Wolf Canis lupus scat Naturetrek July 18 7

9 April Common name Scientific name Butterflies 1 Swallowtail Papilio machaon Small White Pieris rapae 2 3 Orange Tip Anthocaris cardamines Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni Wood White Leptidea sinapis 1 6 Camberwell Beauty Nymphalis antiopa 1 7 Map Butterfly Araschnia levana 10 8 Peacock Aglais io Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria Reptiles 1 Grass Snake Natrix natrix 2 White-backed Woodpecker 8 Naturetrek July 18