Naturetrek Tour Report 4-13 September 2009

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1 Naturetrek 4-13 September 2009 Bearded Tit Red-backed Shrike Sandwich Tern White Stork Report compiled by Robert Mileto Images courtesy of Kim Goodger Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Poland in Autumn Tour Leaders: Robert Mileto Przemek Kunysz Driver: Roman Pietrzak Participants: Dave Goodger Kim Goodger Heather Morgan John Morgan Margo Sheridan Richard Elliot Elizabeth Young Mark Young Phil Sharp Day 1 Friday 4th September Weather: Mostly overcast The early morning flight was smooth and uneventful. We were met by Przemek at Warsaw airport and were soon on our way to Bialowieza. En route we sampled our first traditional Polish food (sour black bread soup and dumplings - which were actually more like giant ravioli). A few choice birds were also noted, particularly a lone immature White Stork which co-operatively wandered towards our roadside stop. Day 2 Saturday 5th September Weather: Sunny intervals (am), light rain (pm) We were up very early and off to the Reserv Wysokie Bagno to meet Arak, a retired forestry lecturer and local expert, who guided us through this Strict Forest Reserve. The reserve has not been managed in any significant way and holds some of Europe s oldest and tallest trees such as Oaks (300 years old and 40 metres tall) and Scots Pines (200 years old and 44 metres tall). Deadwood is abundant, and with it woodpeckers - we saw three species including great views of White-backed Woodpecker. Some also spotted Red Squirrel and we had distant views of a Lesser Spotted Eagle. After a late breakfast we walked round the extensive village parkland, this had attractive large mature trees, open meadows and a couple of lakes. Being the weekend, people were plentiful and so birds were few - the great crested grebes on a lake being most notable, so we moved on. In a wet forest some had an all too fleeting glimpse of a Three-toed Woodpecker, but stars of the day were the confiding Marsh and Crested Tits which obliged with some really close up views. Returning to the guesthouse for lunch, just outside the gate, on a concrete pylon(!), was a lovely Middle-spotted Woodpecker. Following lunch, we explored the local forest and meadows (know as Budy), it was surprisingly quiet, until we found a little meadow near Teremiski where Yellowhammer, Black Redstart, Tree Pipit, Lesser-spotted Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher were somewhat eclipsed by a Wryneck which sat around on a post until they were all chased off by a Sparrowhawk. In the evening we were again out with Arak looking for Pygmy Owls but sadly they failed to respond to his calls. Naturetrek October 09 1

3 Day 3 Sunday 6th September Weather: Sunny intervals - dry We were out and about early on the Budy forest tracks looking for Bison, but, frustratingly, there were none to be seen - we had to be content with Red Squirrel and Red Deer. After breakfast we set off for Lake Siemianowka where our first stop was at a ringing station set up to catch autumn migrants. It is always intriguing to see familiar birds in the hand and in this mornings catch were Chiffchaff, Blackcap, Blue Tit and Great Tit. Down by the lake we saw a lovely immature White-tailed Eagle. Our trackside picnic lunch was interrupted by a huge Belorussian goods train groaning slowly by and a host of rather nice birds that included Great Grey Shrike, Great White Egrets, Lapwing, White Wagtail (playing chicken on the train tracks), a smart female Marsh Harrier and a possible Caspian Gull. Heading back, we stopped off to stroll to the Bison feeding station on the off chance they fancied a bite of the hay there. Sadly, no bison today but instead a very smart Long-tailed Tit (white headed form) and lots of very obvious beaver activity. A puncture meant a slightly premature return to the guesthouse. In the evening we tried again for Pygmy Owls, but it was not to be.we had to make do with some weird looking earthstar fungi. Day 4 Monday 7th September Weather: Mostly sunny Today we left the Bialowieza forest area and headed north-west to our first stop at the Dojlidy fishponds complex. The area was awash with birds, so we spent around two hours taking in, amongst others, Marsh Harriers, Hobby, Red-necked Grebe, Red-backed Shrike. A spooked Bittern gave us a very close fly-by and, as a finale, a White-tailed eagle swooped in and took a carp for its lunch. Stopping off briefly at the River Knyszyn (in Waniewo Narew) there was little by way of birdlife, but a remarkably tame American Mink, although not native (and indeed rather a pest) proved very entertaining. Another traditional lunch (chicken broth followed by roast chicken and pigeon - stuffed cabbage leaves.tastes a good deal better than it sounds!) was had at a remote rural restaurant. Post lunch, we stopped at another fishpond where Whooper Swan was the bird of the moment, though some found the furtive Great Reed Warbler more alluring. A brief stop at a 16 th Century Synagogue (in Tykocin) gave some a good view of a Spotted Flycatcher. Cranes were seen from the road and another lake side stop (Lake Zygmuntowskie) gave us an Osprey over our heads and a Blue-headed Wagtail feeding in a field. In the late afternoon we arrived at the village of Goniadz which borders part of Biebrieza Marsh and ended the day at a viewing point from which we spotted a distant Elk and a not so distant male Marsh Harrier (our first). It was then time to check in to our hotel, which was close by and had a good view across the marshes. Day 5 Tuesday 8th September Weather: Hot and sunny Pre-breakfast, the area of the marsh near the hotel (the Bartlowizna), was enormously atmospheric in the early morning mist. Unfortunately, this made it impossible to tell if a lump on a pole was a Spotted Eagle or just a lump. 2 Naturetrek October 09

4 Post breakfast, the lump was gone - so defiantly a bird, and probably the Spotted Eagle now ensconced in a nearby tree and affording some excellent views! Also giving lovely views were some cranes in the fields on our way to a riverside walk at Brzostovo. Here choice birds included a smart Gooseander, Blue-headed Wagtail, a flyby by a Kingfisher and a Black Woodpecker and some lovely Marsh Harriers. Lunch was on a sunny hillside overlooking the marsh with White-tailed Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, a handful of butterflies (including a Clouded Yellow, an odd Blue and Fritillary and a Brimstone) and a distant elk. Post lunch, the best likely elk stop was thwarted by machinery cutting the reeds. So we moved back to the tower hide near the hotel which was still a great place to see Spotted Eagle along with a Snipe and a Turtle Dove. Day 6 Wednesday 9th September Weather: Hot and sunny Two Spotted Eagles were seen from the tower hide this morning. It was then time to start on the long drive to the Baltic Coast. We stopped at Lake Luknajno (a protected area for wildfowl and swans) for a picnic lunch. Here we saw huge numbers of Mute Swans along with some really excellent views of four Penduline Tits and three Bearded Tits close to the hide. In the afternoon we made steady progress, finding some Cranes and a Roe Deer on the way. We arrived at our destination, the Hotel Baron, on the edge of a pine forest in Sztutowo around 6pm. Day 7 Thursday 10th September Weather: Hot and sunny A pre-breakfast walk in the nearby forest was pleasant, but rather quiet bird-wise, although we did get close to Black Redstart, Great-spotted Woodpecker, Coal Tit and a dinky Red Squirrel. After breakfast we drove a short distance eastwards along the Vistula spit to Piaski where we strolled through the forest and onto the beach. It was warm enough for many of the holidaymakers to be in swimwear (and swimming) so we must have looked a bit odd with all our nature-watching gear. Still, it was worth the funny looks to enjoy the Sandwich Terns, Little Gull and Gadwalls (as well as hordes of Great-black Backed and Herring Gulls). Retiring to the village for a cooling ice-cream, we spotted a Wheatear and a Redstart in the village park. After lunch back at the hotel, we ventured westwards to the west bank of the new Vistula River (known as Ujscie Wisly) and a 2km walk to the river mouth. It was a lovely walk in the warm sunshine. Into the bargain, we spotted a Greenish Warbler on the way (identified by call, as the plumage, according to Przemek was a disaster!). On the beach, some spent time collecting little bits of amber that were common on the sand. Others concentrated on the birds which were numerous and varied and included loads of Cormorants, Red-breasted Merganser, Greylag Geese, Caspian, Sandwich, Black and Little Terns and, splashing about, three Grey Seals. Day 8 Friday 11th September Weather: Mostly overcast but dry Those who ventured a pre-breakfast walk were amply rewarded with nearly an hours entertainment in the form of a Black Woodpecker taking a birch tree to pieces in search of yummy grubs. Today we were headed for the far side of Gdansk and initially a small spit (Rewa) known for its waders. Naturetrek October 09 3

5 Surprisingly, there were also a fair number of people which did not bode well for birds, but the latter seemed pretty relaxed about folk wandering about, so we had really fine close views of Ringed Plover, Dunlin, a cracking Little Stint and four Knot, one still buffy from its summer plumage. It was a touch breezy so a coffee after this spot of birding was in order. We then moved on, to the end of a small estuary (Clif Ostonino) where we had our picnic lunch watching kite surfers. Strolling along the estuary shore we soon came across a host of birds floating about, especially Gadwall, Widgeon, a few Teal and with a fair few Little Gulls above them. In the fields nearby we spotted Wheatear and the bird of the afternoon, a Rough-legged Buzzard. Day 9 Saturday 12th September Weather: Mostly overcast but dry On our way to this mornings venue (a reserve on one of the old Vistula River channels known as Rezerwat Ptasi Raj) we stopped to take in our second Rough-legged Buzzard. At the reserve itself, a Lesser-spotted Woodpecker on a low branch was a lovely find. Przemek also managed to call in an inquisitive Goldcrest and a Garden Warbler was heard but could not be seen. Rob managed to catch a rather sleepy slow worm. A fair variety of typical wetland birds could be seen from the first hide we visited, including a smart male Widgeon. On the dam, Przemek again made excellent use of calls stored on his mobile phone and called in six Bearded Tits. Lunch was followed by an afternoon of culture visiting the attractive old city of Gdansk with its old buildings, wooden human driven crane, amber markets (made our beach hauls rather embarrassing), giant ice-cream cones and lovely Polish cheesecake (Sernik). Dinner was more traditional fayre in a local restaurant. Day 10 Sunday 13th September Weather: Mostly overcast, some light rain The long drive to Warsaw went smoothly. We saw the odd Crane, Marsh Harrier and a Roe Deer. We also sneaked in some last minute gift shopping. We arrived at Warsaw airport, checked-in, boarded and headed off back to London Heathrow, where we said our fond farewells and made our ways home, some already planning a return visit to that fine country that had entertained us so well. Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! 4 Naturetrek October 09

6 Species Lists Birds (H = Heard only) September Common name Scientific name Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena 3 3 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Bittern Botaurus stellaris 1 6 Great White Egret Egretta alba Grey Heron Ardea cinerea White Stork Ciconia ciconia 1 9 Mute Swan Cygnus olor Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus 3 11 Greylag Goose Anser anser H Wigeon Anas penelope Mallard Anas platyrhynchos 5 14 Gadwall Anas strepera Shoveler Anas clypeata Teal Anas crecca Pochard Aythya ferina Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Velvet Scoter Melanitta fusca Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator Goosander Mergus merganser 1 22 Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus 2 24 Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Goshawk Accipiter gentillis 1? 26 Buzzard Buteo buteo 27 Rough-legged Buzzard Buteo lagopus White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina Osprey Pandion haliaetus 1 32 Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Hobby Falco subbuteo 3 34 Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 1 35 Coot Fulica atra Crane Grus grus Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus 5 38 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Lapwing Vanellus vanellus 40 Turnstone Arenaria interpres 3 41 Knot Calidris canutus 5 42 Sanderling Calidris alba 1 43 Dunlin Calidris alpina Little Stint Calidris minuta 1 45 Curlew Numenius arquata 2 46 Greenshank Tringa nebularia H 47 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 3 H H 1 Naturetrek October 09 5

7 September Common name Scientific name Snipe Gallinago gallinago 1 49 Little Gull Larus minutus Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Common Gull Larus canus Herring Gull Larus argentatus 53 Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans 1? 54 Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus 55 Sandwich Tern Thalasseus sandvicensis Little Tern Sternula albifrons 1 57 Caspian Tern Sterna caspia 2 58 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Black Tern Chlidonias niger 1 60 Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 61 Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia 62 Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur 1 63 Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Wryneck Jynx torquilla 1 65 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius H 66 Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1 67 Middle-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius 1 1? 68 Great-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos 3 70 Lesser-spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus 1 72 Sand Martin Riparia riparia Swallow Hirundo rustica 74 House Martin Delichon urbica 75 Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis ? 76 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis 3 77 White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba 78 Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava flava Wren Troglodytes troglodytes H 1 H H 80 Dunnock Prunella modularis H 81 Robin Erithacus rubecula Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Blackbird Turdus merula H 87 Fieldfare Turdus pilaris Song Thrush Turdus philomelos 2 89 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus 2 90 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 1 92 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus 1 93 Garden Warbler Sylvia borin H 94 Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides 1 96 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus H 1 97 Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Naturetrek October 09

8 September Common name Scientific name Goldcrest Regulus regulus 2 99 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata Bearded Tit Panurus biarmicus Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus Marsh Tit Poecile palustris Willow Tit Poecile montanus H H H 104 Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus 5 H H 105 Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus 106 Great Tit Parus major 107 Coal Tit Periparus ater Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Nuthatch Sitta europaea Treecreeper Certhia familiaris Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor Starling Sturnus vulgaris 114 Jay Garrulus glandarius 115 Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes H 116 Magpie Pica pica 117 Jackdaw Corvus monedula 118 Raven Corvus corax Hooded Crow Corvus corone cornix 120 Rook Corvus frugilegus 121 Tree Sparrow Passer montanus House Sparrow Passer domesticus 123 Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs H 124 Siskin Carduelis spinus Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Linnet Acanthis cannabina Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Mammals 1 Parti-coloured Bat Vespertilio murinus 1? 1? 2 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes Grey Seal Halichoerus grypus 3 4 American Mink Mustela vison 1 5 Red Deer Cervus elaphus Elk Alces alces 1 7 Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris Naturetrek October 09 7