ICELAND 24TH JUNE 3RD JULY 2010 TRIP REPORT

Transcription

1 ICELAND 24TH JUNE 3RD JULY 2010 TRIP REPORT 1

2 Tour Leader Andy Jones Participants Alec Hillier Felicity Hillier Sheila Rode Thursday 24th June 2010 A bright and sunny day with temperatures reaching 13 degrees The group assembles at Keflavik and after a brief discussion concerning the merits of birding versus a soak in the Blue Lagoon we decide to begin the trip by birdwatching along the north coast of the Reykjanes peninsula. We see thousands of Arctic Terns and record the first of the wader species which will become so familiar in the days ahead. They include Common Redshank, European Golden Plover, Whimbrel and, on a small pool, we see our first Red-necked Phalaropes. Offshore is a Great Northern Diver and an Atlantic Grey Seal. We explore Reykjavík and near Perlan see one of Iceland s rarities Blackbird! We settle into our hotel and enjoy dinner on a lovely summer s evening. Friday 25 June 2010 Overcast at first with sunny intervals later, light winds and temperatures reaching 12 degrees Our first stop is Þingvellir, a wonderful area with much of interest ecologically, geologically and historically. We bird watch near the old Viking parliament and record several Great Northern Divers, including one with a chick, on the great lake of Þingvallavatn. There are lots of waders here, too. We also see Red-breasted Mergansers and many Greylag Geese. We drive to Hvalfjörður and have a very productive spell of birdwatching around the fjord. Here we see Purple Sandpiper amidst the large flocks of European Oystercatchers. Common Eider are everywhere and out at sea we record Black Guillemot, Atlantic Puffin and enormous numbers of Northern Fulmars. At Borgarnes we note a real Iceland rarity, Common Shelduck as well as many Dunlin on the exposed sand flats. The drive to Snæfellsnes is delightful and we are accompanied by the breeding waders that inhabit these areas in very large numbers. At Grundarfjörður we record our first Glaucous Gulls before settling in to our comfortable harbourside hotel. The evening light is wonderful and we make good use of it photographically. Saturday 26 June 2010 Cloudy at first with a rain shower in the afternoon but clearing later. A chill wind drops during the day. Temperatures reach 12 degrees The peninsula of Snæfellsnes is Iceland in microcosm and we thoroughly explore the area today. We have wonderful views of Ringed Plover, Dunlin and Red-necked Phalaropes near the shore. Arctic Terns are everywhere and we record two Ruddy Turnstones near a large group of Glaucous Gulls. Once again Common Eider abound and we search several flocks for King Eider but without success. On the pools at Rif we note more than fifty Red-necked Phalaropes and are attacked by Arctic Terns as we return to the vehicle! We also see Arctic Skua and a Short-eared Owl. We have our picnic at the coast and see several groups of auks flying offshore. There are lots of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Northern Fulmars as well. At Öndverðarnes we have great views of Common Guillemots, Brunnich s Guillemots, Razorbills and Atlantic Puffins. As we bird watch we notice some large cetaceans offshore they are Sperm Whales and we enjoy some splendid telescope views of these large mammals. In the lava fields we note Northern Wheatear and Snow Bunting and just a little further along the coast see a large pod of Orcas close inshore. We spend a magical hour with these animals and watch them feeding amidst the great flocks of seabirds. We also note Northern Gannet in the area. The weather has calmed down considerably and after dinner we take an evening boat trip on the fjord. Atlantic Puffins abound; we also see large flocks of Glaucous Gulls and Northern Fulmars and Black-legged Kittiwakes are everywhere. We see a Minke Whale and are treated to some lovely close views when our attention is diverted to a large skua harassing the terns and fulmars. It s a Pomarine Skua. We also take the chance to catch some codfish for tomorrow s dinner. It s a great trip. Sunday 27 June 2010 Calm and bright with long sunny intervals. Warm with temperatures reaching 14 degrees It s an early start to catch the ferry across Breiðafjörður to the island of Flatey. There s lots of birds on the way and we also note Common Seal. Near Flatey we also see Harbour Porpoise and a group of White-beaked Dolphins. We amble around the island birds are everywhere and we enjoy wonderful close views of Common Redshank, Common Snipe, Rednecked Phalarope, Black Guillemot, Atlantic Puffin and Snow Bunting. We marvel at the tameness of the phalaropes; some are, quite literally, walking around our feet. The views across the fjord are superb and it s a real pleasure to spend time here. All too soon it s time to catch the boat and return to the mainland. At Stykkishólmur we visit the volcano museum and look at the exhibits there. We are particularly interested in the information and films about the recent Eyjafjallajökull eruption in Iceland. The volcanic theme continues with a visit to the Berserkjahraun lava field. The landscape here is amazing block lava covered in Racomitrium moss and the few birds to be found here really stand out. We note European Golden Plover and Common Snipe and see Redwings and Northern Wheatear as well. 2

3 Monday 28 June 2010 Bright but breezy with a chill north easterly wind. Temperatures reach 14 degrees It s a travelling day and we begin our journey by driving along the southern shore of Breiðafjörður and Hvammsfjörður. At Álftafjörður we see some two hundred or so Whooper Swans congregating in the fjord. The scenery is wonderful as we drive across Laxárdalur towards Hrútafjörður. At Hrútafjörður we have a productive spell of birdwatching and note Red-throated Diver, Atlantic Puffin, Ringed Plover, Dunlin, European Oystercatcher and Arctic Skua. A Merlin flies across the road as we drive along. The coast at Blönduós produced a real prize a male Harlequin in a group of five females. The birds settle on the shingle close to us and we have some great photographic opportunities. There s also Iceland Gull here and we see Great Northern Diver as well. Nearby we make another stop to see Slavonian Grebe and a Red-throated Diver with young. At Héraðsvötn we see several groups of Pink-footed Geese with their goslings before we enjoy the drive to Akureyri through some spectacular glaciated scenery. We have time for a quick stroll around Akureyri, Iceland s second city, before driving to our guesthouse in the magnificent valley of Eyjafjörður. Tuesday 29 June 2010 Bright and sunny with a brisk easterly breeze. Temperatures reach 16 degrees. We have a quick photo stop at the waterfall, Goðafoss before driving on to Mývatn and its famous lake. On the way a Gyr Falcon flies rapidly across the road but sadly not everyone sees it. We have more luck with two Short-eared Owls though and we all get stunning views of these attractive birds. As the day progresses we make several stops around the lake and enjoy some short walks observing the wildfowl in this very important area. Tufted Duck and Greater Scaup are the commonest breeding species but we also see Eurasian Wigeon, Gadwall, Long-tailed Duck, Common Teal, Mallard, Common Scoter and Northern Pintail. Of course, the real treats are the Harlequins on the outlet river we have great views of them surfing in the rough water and the Barrow s Goldeneye on the lake itself. We see and photograph some family groups and at one place record some sixty five drake Barrow s Goldeneye, wow! In one pool we enjoy watching Slavonian Grebes and chuckle at the antics of the grebelets being carried on their mother s back. Geologically and botanically the area is also of great interest and in the sheltered fissures we see and examine the hot water and find some of the rather rare Herb Paris. We also hear the Iceland race of Northern Wren. We spend some time searching for Gyr Falcons near a mountain and are rewarded with a distant view of this magnificent raptor as it flies behind the hillside. It s time to return to Eyjafjörður after what s been an excellent day s birdwatching. Wednesday 30 June 2010 Bright and calm at first with the wind picking up later. Another warm day with temperatures reaching 15 degrees. We travel to Húsavík for a sail on to Skjálfandi Bay and the chance to go whale watching. We board a lovely old timber fishing boat and sail with high hopes. These are rewarded very soon after leaving harbour when we encounter the first of at least six Minke Whales we see this morning. The animal is feeding in the relatively shallow waters of the bay and spends quite a bit of time on the surface. We get some great views. We see lots of Atlantic Puffins there is a large colony on a nearby island and both Arctic and Great Skuas. We also see a group of White-beaked Dolphins and have a very pleasant twenty minutes or so watching their antics. They approach the boat and we see them swimming underwater very close to us. The wind increases and ruffles the sea but our crew still manages to find us several more Minke Whales. We also watch the seabird feeding frenzies with their attendant skuas harassing the terns, puffins and kittiwakes. Back ashore we munch our lunchtime sandwiches overlooking a stretch of river and record Goosander there. We drive along the valley of Fnjóskadalur and search for Iceland Wren in some woodland. We hear wrens and see Common Redpolls. There s also time to visit the old turf roofed farm at Laufás before returning to our guesthouse for a traditional Icelandic meal of smoked lamb delicious. After dinner we spend some time with the waders of Eyjafjörður and have some lovely views, and hopefully lovely photographs, of Whimbrel, Black-tailed Godwit, Common Redshank, European Golden Plover, Ringed Plover and Dunlin. We also see a small breeding colony of Common Gulls with some well grown chicks clearly visible in the grass. Thursday 1 July 2010 Stormy with rain and very strong winds. Cold at first, just 5 degrees, but reaching 11 degrees later. The bad weather puts paid to our plan of driving across Iceland s interior and instead we take the coastal road westwards. At first the weather isn t too miserable and we take advantage of it by visiting the open air museum at Glaumbær. The exhibits are interesting and the area is very atmospheric. We see Pink-footed Geese nearby and there are also lots of Redwing in the area. The weather is deteriorating rapidly as we reach Staður and the prospect of a picnic is not enticing. Instead we have Icelandic hot dogs in one of the service stations and all agree they re surprisingly good. 3

4 Driving wind and rain makes conditions unpleasant and we shelve our plans for birding at Bifröst to make time for a visit to a geothermal power station instead. The modern station at Hellisheiði is very interesting and we learn about this green and sustainable way of power generation. It s still blowing furiously and raining heavily when we reach Hveragerði where we ll be staying for the next two nights. We settle in to our hotel, enjoy a delicious dinner and hope for better conditions tomorrow. Friday 2 July 2010 Strong winds but dry with improving conditions later in the day. Temperatures reach 14 degrees. Much better weather today and we decide to forego our visit to the south coast and visit the site of the recent eruption instead. First though we call at a very well formed crater called Kerið. There are Common Ravens and Arctic Skuas in the area and, as usual, we are accompanied by the calls and cries of the breeding waders as we explore the area. We make a quick visit to the hot springs and geysers at Geysir before calling at the dramatic glacial falls of Gullfoss. In the gorge beneath the falls is a Merlin. We also see lots of displaying Common Snipe and many Lesser Black-backed Gulls. We picnic near the river of Hvítá and watch a group of riders cross the narrow bridge. There are lots of Redwings here and we also see Meadow Pipits and hear Common Redpoll. Near Keldur we spend time searching for ptarmigans that have so far eluded us on this trip they continued to do so! The wind is still blowing briskly and blows the ash from the recent eruption high into the air. It mostly obscures the volcano but we manage some brief views of the summit as we drive along. We see the steam rising from the craters before blowing ash once more obscures the top. There s ash everywhere in the valley and we collect some samples before driving on to the valley floor to see the havoc wrought by April s glacial flood triggered by the eruption. The birds don t seem to mind though and we record all the usual suspects seemingly breeding successfully in the shadow of the Eyjafjallajökull volcano. There s time for a brief coffee stop at Hvolsvöllur and a visit to the waterfall Urriðafoss before it s time to return to the hotel. Saturday 3 July 2010 Bright, sunny and a calm start to the day with temperatures around 10 degrees It s an early start for our drive to the airport and the return flight. We note the familiar waders as we drive along and in the clear conditions can see as far as the Snæfellsjökull glacier which reminds us of our time with the orcas exactly one week ago. The trip s over and all agree it s been a wonderful time. Thanks for visiting Iceland and I hope we ll meet up on another Oriole Birding trip again one day. Andy Jones July 2010 Species Recorded Birds Red-throated Diver Gavia stellata Great Northern Diver Gavia immer Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus Northern Fulmar Fulmarus glacialis Manx Shearwater Puffinus puffinus Northern Gannet Morus bassanus Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus Pink-footed Goose Anser brachyrhynchus Greylag Goose Anser anser Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Gadwall Anas strepera Common Teal Anas crecca Shelduck Tadorna tadorna Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Northern Pintail Anas acuta Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Greater Scaup Aythya marila Common Eider Somateria mollissima Harlequin Duck Histrionicus histrionicus Long-tailed Duck Clangula haemalis Common Scoter Melanitta nigra Barrow's Goldeneye Bucephala islandica Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator Goosander Mergus merganser Merlin Falco columbarius Gyr Falcon Falco rusticolus Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata 4

5 Common Redshank Tringa totanus Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Dunlin Calidris alpina Purple Sandpiper Calidris maritima Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus Great Skua Stercorarius skua Pomarine Skua Stercorarius pomarinus Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus Common Gull Larus canus Great Black-backed Gull Larus marinus Glaucous Gull Larus hyperboreus Iceland Gull Larus glaucoides Herring Gull Larus argentatus Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Black-legged Kittiwake Rissa tridactyla Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea Common Guillemot Uria aalge Brunnich's Guillemot Uria lomvia Razorbill Alca torda Black Guillemot Cepphus grylle Atlantic Puffin Fratercula arctica Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus White Wagtail Motacilla alba Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis Northern Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula Redwing Turdus iliacus Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Common Raven Corvus corax Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris Common Redpoll Carduelis flammea Snow Bunting Plectrophenax nivalis Mammals Atlantic Grey Seal Halichoerus grypus Common Seal Phoca vitulina Minke Whale Balaenoptera acutorostrata Sperm Whale Physeter macrocephalus Killer Whale Orcinus orca White-beaked Dolphin Lagenorhynchus albirostris Harbour Porpoise Phocoena phocoena Field Mouse Apodemus sylvaticus 5