CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS Aboard M/V Ortelius October 27 November 8, 2018

Transcription

1 CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE FALKLAND ISLANDS Aboard M/V Ortelius October 27 November 8, 2018 BUENOS AIRES & NORTHERN PATAGONIA PRE-TRIP October 23 28, 2018 TIERRA DEL FUEGO EXTENSION November 7-10,

2 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 2 For many years, we have dreamed that our cruises to Antarctica, South Georgia, and the Falkland Islands would include more time in the Falklands. Typically, our Antarctica programs offer two days here at most, this despite the fact the Falklands offer a greater diversity of birds than Antarctica, and breeding bird colonies of equal spectacle. In the fall of 2018, partnering with Oceanwide Expeditions, we will operate our first-ever Falklandsonly voyage, aboard the M/V Ortelius, a nine-night circumnavigation of the entire archipelago that includes visits to at least seven different islands, and marvelous seabirding, landbirding, and wildlife viewing. Over the course of this journey, you will witness rugged and beautiful scenery, enjoy intimate encounters with wildlife that is totally unafraid, and experience the thrill of visiting places where relatively few will ever go. Southern Rockhopper Penguin, Falkland Islands Michael O'Brien The Falklands are a true wonderland of South Atlantic wildlife, the breeding grounds for huge colonies of Black-browed Albatross and colonies of Imperial Cormorant and King, Gentoo, Magellanic, and Southern Rockhopper penguins. Via cruise ship, Zodiac outings, and shore excursions, we will immerse ourselves in the raw beauty of the islands and their special wildlife. Activities include visits to Steeple Jason Island, site of the world s largest Black-browed Albatross colony; Saunders Island, with its marvelous mixed colonies of albatrosses, penguins, and cormorants; Carcass Island, with rewarding landbirding; and East Falkland, home to the capital, Stanley, and a growing population of King Penguins. In addition to big spectacles, we ll seek an array of rangerestricted birds including Falkland Steamer-Duck, Ruddy-headed Goose, Rufous-chested Dotterel, Striated Caracara, and White-bridled Finch.

3 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 3 Complementing our time among the islands are exhilarating sea crossings between the Argentine mainland and the Falklands Archipelago. The pelagic birding in these southern waters is among the best in the world. On two lengthy ocean crossings, we should see as many as six species of albatross, including the huge Wandering and Royal albatrosses, and a marvelous assortment of giant-petrels, petrels, prions, storm-petrels, diving-petrels, and shearwaters. The marine mammal viewing is often very good as well. We have chances to see several species of whales; Peale s, Dusky, Commerson s and Hourglass dolphins; and South American Sea Lion and South American Fur Seal. When not searching for wildlife on the above decks, you ll attend lectures in the below decks by ship staff who will bring expertise on facets of the natural history of the South Atlantic and Falklands regions. At the conclusion of the trip, we ll cruise up the legendary Beagle Channel, surrounded on all sides by rocky headlands and snow-capped mountains, enjoying the thousands of seabirds that fill the sky and water around us. Penguins, albatrosses, giant-petrels, petrels, diving-petrels, shearwaters, and skuas are all typically encountered. M/V Ortelius in the Falkland Islands Oceanwide Expeditions We ll travel aboard the 116-passenger Ortelius, a comfortable and practical small expedition ship well-suited for the rugged conditions of the South Atlantic Ocean. Ortelius features 53 simple but comfortable cabins with private bathroom facilities and ocean views. Outside, there s plenty of open deck space including an observation platform forward below the bridge. A fleet of Zodiac landing craft permits landings anywhere nature or curiosity dictates. This remarkable voyage will be led by a wonderful team of VENT tour leaders including Michael O Brien, Louise Zemaitis, and Barry Zimmer. Also on board will be a host of lecturers and staff provided by Oceanwide Expeditions including Brian Patteson and Kitty Coley.

4 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 4 While we understand that some people would not choose to travel to the Falkland Islands without also visiting South Georgia Island and Antarctica, it is also true that the cost of the whole Southern Ocean sweep is now almost $20,000 per person. With cabin prices for this voyage starting at $7995, you will pay a fraction of the cost of a full Southern Ocean voyage and you will see most of the same birds and wildlife. Those desiring to see more of Argentina and its wildlife beyond what is available in the cruise program are strongly encouraged to join our optional pre- and post-cruise extensions. Our Buenos Aires & Northern Patagonia Pre-trip spends two days amid the wetlands and pampas around the Argentine capital, and several days in the fantastic coastal environments of Punta Tombo and the famed Valdes Peninsula. Based in Ushuaia, our Tierra del Fuego Extension spends two days amid the majestic scenery of the Beagle Channel waterfront and wondrous Tierra del Fuego National Park. October 27-28, Days 1-2: Travel to Buenos Aires and Puerto Madryn, Argentina. Participants should plan to depart from home on October 27 aboard flights to Buenos Aires (airport code EZE), arriving on the morning of October 28. In Buenos Aires, you will need to transfer from the international airport to the domestic airport, a transfer that will be facilitated by our ground operator, in advance of a flight to Trelew. The flight from Buenos Aires to Trelew will take about two hours and will see us on the ground in the late afternoon. Upon arrival we will receive a transfer to our hotel in Puerto Madryn, about minutes from the airport. Please note the cost for the flight is NOT included in the cruise fee. On the evening of October 28, we will gather for the first time at 6:30 p.m. in the hotel for a trip welcome and orientation. At this time, your tour leaders will introduce themselves and you will meet your fellow travelers. Note: Buenos Aires has two airports, Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini, much more commonly known by the name Ezeiza (airport code EZE), and Jorge Newbery Airfield, usually referred to as "Aeroparque" (airport code AEP), which handles most domestic flights. All international flights arrive at EZE, while flights between Buenos Aires and Trelew can be through either airport. Please be aware of which airport your flight arrives and/or departs from. If it is necessary to change airports, the travel time between airports is roughly one hour. NIGHTS: On board commercial aircraft (October 27) Hotel Dazzler, Puerto Madryn (October 28) October 29, Day 3: Morning birding excursion around Puerto Madryn; afternoon embarkation. With 94,000 inhabitants, Puerto Madryn is a picturesque port city located on the central coast of Argentina. Situated on the shore of Golfo Nuevo, between the Valdés Peninsula and Punta Ninfas, Puerto Madryn provides an exciting embarkation point for our voyage to the Falklands. Based on an afternoon boarding time, our schedule will afford us most of the day in and around Puerto Madryn, where we ll enjoy coastal birding followed by lunch in the city. Departing the hotel after breakfast, our day will begin with birding in a mix of scrub and coastal habitats along the northern coast of Puerto Madryn. Our first destination is the beach of El Doradillo, a protected area locally famous as a place to watch Southern Right Whales from land. These cetaceans frequent these waters from June to December when they migrate here to mate and calve. The whales prefer the calm waters of the near-shore environment, and on some days they can be seen right along the immediate coastline. A boardwalk that runs along the clifftops overlooks the coast below and was built for the purpose of whale watching. Birds are present here as well, and we expect to find an assortment of birds associated with land and water, including Magellanic and Imperial cormorants, Blackish Oystercatcher, South American Tern, Southern and Northern giant-petrels, Cinereous Harrier, Patagonian Mockingbird, Plain-Mantled Tit-Spinetail, Common Diuca-Finch, and many others.

5 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 5 We'll give special emphasis to seeking Burrowing Parakeets, a species endemic to the southern halves of Argentina and Chile, which we hope to encounter at a ravine near town. We ll return to town for lunch and check-out from the hotel (if we haven t already done so). Afterward, our activities will be determined by time availability. We should not expect to go to the dock before 3:00 or 4:00 p.m., in which case we may have an hour or two at our disposal for some additional birding, or perhaps a driving tour of Puerto Madryn. We ll board the M/V Ortelius in the late afternoon and begin our cruise, traveling out to sea via the Golfo Nuevo. After completing mandatory safety drills, we ll want to be out on deck for some late-day seawatching. Cruising through these protected waters, we ll likely encounter a variety of birds including Southern Giant-Petrel, Chilean Skua, South American Tern, Dolphin and Kelp gulls, and more. We ll also watch for more Southern Right Whales. Interestingly, a pod of Orcas is resident here as well. A sighting of these magnificent animals would be a wonderful way to end the day! NIGHT: Aboard M/V Ortelius October 30-31, Days 4-5: At sea (en route to the Falkland Islands). The distance from Puerto Madryn to the Falkland Islands is over 800 nautical miles, a considerable distance that will require a little over two days to cover. Our route will take us away from the mainland in a southeasterly direction before setting a course almost due south. Over these two days, our voyage to the Falklands will cover almost ten degrees of latitude over increasingly cooler water. These southern seas offer some of the finest pelagic birding in the world, and we will want to be on deck as much as possible. Sightings of Southern Giant-Petrel and our first Black-browed Albatross will likely occur in short order while a range of tubenose seabirds will be in evidence. White-chinned Petrel; Slender-billed Prion; Wilson s Storm-Petrel; and Great, Sooty, and Manx shearwaters are representative of the species composition we re likely to encounter. We ll likely note Chilean Skuas at different times as well, particularly on the first day at sea when we are still closer to the mainland. Chilean Skua Michael O Brien Interestingly, VENT tours to Antarctica never visit waters this far north of the Falkland Islands. Consequently, a narrow range of seabirds is possible at these latitudes that we see seldom record on our more southerly trips. In particular, we will watch for Atlantic Yellow-nosed Albatross, Sooty Albatross, and Atlantic Petrel. These waters may also yield a variety of whales and dolphins. At any time we could come across Sei or Humpback whales, Orca, Southern Right Whale Dolphin, or Dusky Dolphin. When not on deck, we ll have opportunities to enjoy the amenities Ortelius has to offer, including presentations by the expedition staff on the natural history of the South Atlantic Ocean and the Falkland Islands. The Falkland Islands archipelago consists of two large islands and about 200 smaller ones. NIGHTS: Aboard M/V Ortelius

6 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 6 November 1-5, Days 6-10: Exploring the Falkland Islands. Lying 300 miles due east of Argentina, the windswept cluster of islands known as the Falklands occupy a remote corner of the South Atlantic. For many, the Falkland Islands are a historical oddity, the site of a short, but bitterly contested war between England and Argentina in 1982 over ownership of the islands. Today, the islands exist as a self-governing territory of the United Kingdom, with a population of 3,000, most of which resides in the territorial capital, Stanley (sometimes known as Port Stanley). The Falklands are in fact a wildlife-rich location, with important colonies of breeding penguins of four species, albatross, waterfowl, and landbirds. Many of the birds that occur in the Falklands are represented by endemic island races. Meanwhile, several species of seals and dolphins that occur in the nearshore waters are not found in the colder waters to the south. The Falklands are not true sub-antarctic islands, and their location near the interface of temperate and cold water regimes is conducive to a wonderful abundance of wildlife. In fact, the avian and botanical diversity of the Falklands is greater here than at either South Georgia Island or on the Antarctic continent. We will arrive in the Falklands early on the morning of November 1, and will have the next five days to explore at least seven islands in the archipelago, in addition to Stanley. Our activities will vary depending on location, but over the course of the voyage we should expect opportunities for birding, photography, hiking, and sightseeing. While we will seek as many species of birds as possible, we emphasize that this trip presents an all-around natural history expedition, an opportunity to experience nature s spectacles in a way that is unavailable in most places. Among the trip s many highlights are excursions to observe colonies of penguins, albatrosses, and cormorants at close range; visits to undisturbed colonies and haul-out places of sea lions, elephant seals, and fur seals; and landings on remote shores only seldom visited by other travelers. Sea and weather conditions will ultimately determine our exact itinerary, but the intended program includes landings at the following islands: Carcass Island Positioned at the northwest corner of the island group, Carcass was named for a ship in the British Royal Navy. A lovely two-mile walk along the coastline offers an intimate way to discover the natural world of the Falklands. This island is pleasantly rodent-free and hence teeming with birdlife. Excellent chances exist for encountering Magellanic and Gentoo penguins, Upland and Ruddy-headed geese, Falkland and Flying steamerducks, Striated Caracara, Blackish Cinclodes, Cobb s Wren, Austral Thrush, and White-bridled (Black-throated) Finch. Blackish and Magellanic oystercatchers are often found on the boulder-strewn shoreline. West Point Island West Point also sits on the western side of the archipelago and offers beautiful views of the South Atlantic Ocean and another colony of Rockhopper Penguins and Black-browed Albatross. West Falkland Situated in a remote corner of West Falkland, Grave Cove offers nesting Gentoo Penguins and excellent hiking opportunities. East Falkland Volunteer Point Site of a large white-sand beach, somewhat exposed but with a large King Penguin rookery and other birdlife. Sparrow Cove/Kidney Cove The hike up Mt. Low (204 meters, 669 feet) affords great views of Kidney Cove and Port Stanley. Stanley (Port Stanley) Capital of the Falklands Territory and located on East Falkland, Stanley is the main center of population in the islands. The amount of time we spend here will depend on the cruise schedule, but we ll likely have a full day, consisting of a morning of birding and time in the afternoon to wander around town before returning to the ship.

7 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 7 With a local guide, we hope to travel a short distance out of town into the tundra-like moorlands where we ll have a chance to look for a variety of birds amid grasslands and roadside ponds. Here, we ll keep an eye out for species such as Ruddy-headed Goose, Two-banded Plover, Rufous-chested Dotterel, Austral Thrush, Correndera Pipit, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Black-chinned Siskin. Back in Stanley, the waterfront is a good place to look for Falkland Steamer-Duck, a flightless waterfowl endemic to the Falkland Islands. In the afternoon we ll have time to wander around town on our own and get a feel for its Victorian charm. Suggested activities include visits to the Falkland Islands Museum, Christ Church Cathedral, 1982 Liberation Memorial, and Whalebone Arch. An example of the rich history of Stanley lies in the fact that approximately twenty shipwrecks can be seen at various points along the seven-mile harbor front. Stanley was also at the center of the Falklands War of 1982, and the preserved battlefields are readily seen outside the town. King Penguins, Volunteer Point, East Falkland Jeremy Richards/Shutterstock Striated Caracara, Saunders Island Michael O Brien Saunders Island Located northwest of large West Falkland, Saunders is one of the Falklands more dramatic islands. Mountains and open plains combine for appealing visual scenery while colonies of Gentoo, Magellanic, and Southern Rockhopper penguins and Blackbrowed Albatross are highlights. A small colony of King Penguins exists here as well. Small groups of these regal birds can be found clustered on broad sandy beaches. Striated Caracaras and Brown Skuas patrol the bird colonies, on watch for an easy meal, while black and white Commerson s Dolphins are occasionally seen in the surf. Sea Lion Island Southernmost of the Falklands, Sea Lion is renowned among photographers as a great place to see an abundance of wildlife. In addition to a large diversity of birds, Sea Lion Island, as the name would suggest, is a great place to see pinnipeds. This island is home to the largest breeding colony of Southern Elephant Seals in the archipelago, with approximately 2,000 individuals on the northern beaches at this time of the year. A hike of moderate distance leads to a haul-out place of South American Sea Lions. Southern Giant-Petrels are easily seen here as well. Sandy Bay Island This islet off the southeast coast of East Falkland offers excellent wildlife viewing opportunities. An easy walk to see nesting Gentoo, Magellanic, and Southern Rockhopper penguins and Imperial Cormorants is a featured activity. Other possible birds here are Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant and South American Snipe.

8 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 8 Steeple Jason Island Situated in the northwest corner of the Falklands Archipelago, Steeple Jason is a wild and rarely visited island buffeted by the wind and waves. Over 70% of the global population of Black-browed Albatross breeds in the Falkland Islands, and Steeple Jason, with nearly 200,000 pairs, is home to the world s single largest colony. Other birdlife includes Southern Rockhopper, Magellanic, and Gentoo penguins; Striated Caracara; Blackish Cinclodes; and other birds. Steeple Jason takes its name from the steep central peak that dominates the island interior, while the rest of the island is rather low-lying and covered in wet tussock grass and ringed by sandy beaches. Black-browed Albatross Colony, Steeple Jason Island Martin van Lovken, Oceanwide Expeditions New Island A particularly scenic island on the western side of the archipelago offers great views of grassy hills, deeply indented coastline, and sweeping views of the sea. The feature activity is a hike to view a large mixed colony of Southern Rockhopper Penguins, Black-browed Albatross, and Imperial Cormorants. Open grassy areas hold Correndera Pipit, Sedge (Austral) Wren, and Longtailed Meadowlark. Striated Caracaras patrol from the hilltops while Kelp Geese and Falkland Steamer-Ducks are found in the bays. If we are permitted access to the New Island North Nature Reserve (permit required), we ll have an opportunity to view a colony of South American Fur Seals. NIGHTS: Aboard M/V Ortelius Falklands Steamer-Ducks, Falklands Nina B./Shutterstock

9 Birds & Wildlife of the Falkland Islands Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 9 Of the birds and marine mammals found in the Falkland Islands, a number of these occur as unique island races (subspecies) or are highly range-restricted on the South American mainland and difficult to find there. Following is a list of notable residents in the islands, with alternative names in parentheses: Notable birds of the Falklands Upland Goose Kelp Goose Ruddy-headed Goose Flying Steamer-Duck Falkland Steamer-Duck Crested Duck Yellow-billed Teal (Speckled Teal) Silver Teal King Penguin Gentoo Penguin Magellanic Penguin Southern Rockhopper Penguin Black-browed Albatross Magellanic Cormorant (Rock Shag) Imperial Cormorant (King Shag) Snowy Sheathbill Variable (Red-backed) Hawk Southern Caracara Striated Caracara Two-banded Plover Rufous-chested Dotterel Blackish Oystercatcher Magellanic Oystercatcher South American Snipe Magellanic race (also on mainland) Brown Skua breeding endemic Falkland race, antarcticus Dolphin Gull South American Tern Blackish Cinclodes endemic race, antarcticus; tussock-bird, colloquially Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant endemic race, maclovianus Cobb s Wren endemic species Sedge Wren endemic race, falklandicus Austral Thrush endemic race, falklandii Correndera Pipit endemic race, grayi White-bridled Finch (Black-throated Finch) endemic race, melanodera Long-tailed Meadowlark endemic race, falklandica Black-chinned Siskin Imperial Cormorants, Carcass Island Jeremy Richards/Shutterstock White-bridled Finch, Falklands Stubblefield Photography/Shutterstock

10 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 10 Notable Mammals of the Falklands Peale s Dolphin Commerson s Dolphin Southern Elephant Seal South American Sea Lion South American Fur Seal South American Sea Lion, Falklands David Osborn/Shutterstock November 6, Day 11: At sea (en route to Ushuaia). We ll spend the entire day at sea today, making our way from the Falklands to Ushuaia on the mainland. The crossing requires a little more than a day to complete, but offers superb opportunities for seawatching. From the time we depart the Falklands we will be immersed in the remarkable abundance of seabirds that are typical of the waters off southern South America. Albatrosses are common, and among the numerous Black-broweds we will likely see several of the great albatrosses including Snowy Wandering and Northern and Southern royals. Although less often encountered, we have distinct chances for Gray-headed and Light-mantled Sooty albatrosses as well. Besides albatrosses, these nutrient rich waters teem with tubenoses and other seabirds such as Southern Giant-Petrel, Common Diving-Petrel, White-chinned Petrel, Slender-billed Prion, Wilson s and Black-bellied storm-petrels, Sooty and Great shearwaters, and Brown Skua. At this early date in the southern spring, we even have chances for the beautiful Cape Petrel and ghostly Southern Fulmar. Closer to the mainland, and especially the next morning, chances exist for observing other seabirds. Common Diving- Petrel, Chilean Skua, South American Tern, and Dolphin and Kelp gulls are expected. Sightings of Commerson s, Peale s and Dusky dolphins could occur at any time. When not on deck, we ll have opportunities to enjoy the amenities Ortelius has to offer, including presentations by the expedition staff. November 7, Day 12: Disembarkation; birding in Ushuaia; departure for home. We ll awake this morning to find ourselves cruising up the Beagle Channel on final approach to Ushuaia. In all directions we ll be surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery, with many of the higher peaks still locked under retreating winter snow. Seabirds fill the air and water around us. Chilean Skuas and Dolphin Gulls are common while Magellanic Oystercatchers, Flightless and Flying steamer-ducks, and Magellanic Cormorants inhabit the rocky coastline. These waters also give us our only chance to spot the Magellanic Diving-Petrel, a species not found away from the mainland and nearby islands. We will disembark the ship between 8:00-9:00 a.m. Because the flight to Buenos Aires does not depart until early to mid-afternoon, we ll have several hours for birding along the waterfront. Beagle Channel Jorisvo/Shutterstock

11 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 11 Situated on the Beagle Channel, and ringed by snow peaks and lush forest of Southern Beach, Ushuaia is a remarkably beautiful location. And the birding opportunities are great. Many of South America s most elegant waterfowl use the nearshore waters and coastal ponds for breeding during the spring and summer seasons. We ll watch for Upland Goose, Crested Duck, Yellow-billed Pintail, Speckled Teal, Red Shoveler, and Chiloe Wigeon. Beyond waterfowl, we re likely to encounter more Dolphin and Kelp gulls, Brown-hooded Gull, and South American Tern. Exploration of nearby open areas could yield a range of landbirds new to the trip including Chimango Caracara, Gray-flanked and Buff-winged cinclodes, Chilean Swallow, Austral Thrush, and the darling Austral Negrito. In the late morning, we will transfer to the airport for departing flights to Buenos Aires. Flights should not be scheduled to depart prior to 11:00 a.m. Those continuing on the Tierra del Fuego Extension will transfer to our hotel, located a short distance outside the city. NIGHT: Aboard commercial aircraft November 8, Day 13: Arrive home. International flights departing Buenos Aires on the night of November 7 arrive in the United States this morning. Due to the nature of the expedition, weather conditions or government regulations may require changes to be made to the itinerary and/or the cancellation of certain shore excursions. Every attempt will be made to adhere to the itinerary described, within the limits of safety and time.

12 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 12 BUENOS AIRES & NORTHERN PATAGONIA PRE-TRIP October 23 28, 2018 Vast and wild, Argentina offers some of the finest wildlife viewing experiences in the world. On this optional cruise pre-trip, we will visit two distinct areas Buenos Aires and the Atlantic coast of northern Patagonia seeking birds and wildlife characteristic of eastern Argentina. This land-based tour is an excellent choice for those who wish to experience more of this beautiful country its birds, its landscapes than is available in the cruise program. Buenos Aires is regarded by many as the finest, most sophisticated city in Latin America, where an obvious European influence permeates the city s parks, architecture, and culture. For birders and other natural history enthusiasts, Buenos Aires is equally compelling. Several high-quality birding areas are accessed from the city center in an hour or less. We will spend two days here exploring a variety of wetland, grassland, and dry forest habitats. On the afternoon of the first day we ll visit Costanera Sur, a beautiful wildlife preserve located just minutes from our hotel. Here, birds are tame and abundant, and the walking is easy. A superb mix of waterbirds and landbirds is likely, among which is a range of waterfowl including Coscoroba Swan, Rosy-billed Pochard, and Silver Teal; Red-gartered Coot; Whistling Heron; Chimango Caracara; Guira Cuckoo; Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch; and Red-crested Cardinal. On the second day we ll take a trip to Otamendi Natural Reserve, located in the Paraná River Delta ecosystem, where we ll have a taste of the famed Pampas. Amid these grasslands, wetlands, riverine forest, and woodlands we ll seek a wonderful pageant of birds. In fact, this area offers some of the most exciting birding in the country, with chances for Black-necked Swan, Southern Screamer, Giant Wood-Rail, Many-colored Rush-Tyrant, Diademed and Sayaca tanagers, and Scarlet-headed Blackbird. A two-hour flight will take us to the northern reaches of legendary Patagonia, where land, sea, and wildlife compete in beauty and splendor. We ll visit two premier reserves, Punta Tombo and the worldfamous Valdés Peninsula. These destinations are among the most revered wildlife viewing areas in South America, places where mammals and birds are equally well-represented. Guanaco, Patagonian

13 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 13 Cavy (Mara), Southern Sea Lion and Southern Elephant Seal abound, while among the marvelous birdlife are standout species White-headed Steamer-Duck, Chiloe Wigeon, Lesser Rhea, Elegant Crested-Tinamou, Chilean Flamingo, Burrowing Parakeet, and numerous other birds. Highlight spectacles include a visit to a colony of Magellanic Penguins containing 500,000 birds, and a short boat trip to view Southern Right Whales on their calving grounds. The pre-trip will be led by VENT tour leader Michael O Brien, and renowned Argentine guide, Hector Slongo. An additional local guide will be added as tour size warrants. October 23-24, Days 1-2: Travel to Buenos Aires, Argentina; afternoon birding at Costanera Sur. Participants should plan to depart from home on October 23 aboard flights to Buenos Aires (airport code EZE), arriving on the morning of October 24. After clearing customs and immigration, you will be met by our ground operator and transferred to our hotel where your room is available for immediate occupancy. Lunch is on your own. We ll convene in the hotel lobby at 2:00 P.M. on October 24 for a brief pre-trip welcome and introduction, followed by a birding trip to Costanera Sur, a lovely preserved wetland alongside a major metropolitan park in the heart of Buenos Aires. Buenos Aires and Costanera Sur Seriema Tours Costanera Sur is a fantastic wetland setting where ponds, mudflats, and reed beds provide important refuge to hundreds of waterfowl, coots, herons, and other waterbirds. A wide levee and several viewing platforms allow for limitless viewing and we will spend the majority of the afternoon looking over the extensive habitat. With so many birds so easily seen, there simply is no better way to experience an introduction to the joys of birding in Argentina.

14 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 14 Waterfowl are a primary attraction as many of the waterfowl species of southern South America occurs here, a sampling of which includes Coscoroba Swan, White-faced Whistling-Duck, Rosy-billed Pochard, Red Shoveler, Silver Teal, Ringed Teal, and Lake Duck. White-tufted Grebe, Cocoi Heron, Spotflanked Gallinule, Wattled Jacana, and Brownhooded gulls crowd reedbeds and open patches of water. With luck, we may encounter some of the more secretive species such as Rufous-sided Crake, Stripe-backed Bittern, or South American Painted- Snipe. Complementing the waterbirds, there usually is a variety of land birds in the surrounding trees and Ringed Teal, Costanera Sur Steve Hilty bushes as well, among them Eared Dove, Nanday Parakeet, Guira Cuckoo, Green-barred Woodpecker, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Rufous Hornero, Sulphur-bearded Spinetail, Freckle-breasted Thornbird, Cattle Tyrant, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Masked Gnatcatcher, Blueand-yellow Tanager, Great Pampa-Finch, Long-tailed Reed-Finch, Saffron Finch, Hooded Siskin, the lovely Black-and-rufous Warbling-Finch, and Red-crested Cardinal. This listing of birds is only a representation of what is possible. Costanera Sur is a premier birding area, and every visit is different. NIGHT (October 23): Aboard international aircraft (October 24): Feir s Park Hotel, Buenos Aires October 25, Day 3: Day excursion to the Paraná River Delta habitats north of Buenos Aires. Following breakfast we will board our bus and head about an hour out of town to the Reserva Naturale Otamendi (Otamendi Nature Reserve) for a day of birding amid the famed Argentine pampas. Otamendi is a critically important national park that protects a massive system of marshes, reed beds, and shallow lagoons. A long road traversing the length of the marshes ends at the River Paraná de las Palmas (one of the arms of the Paraná River Delta). We will spend most of the morning birding along the road, where opportunities for seeing birds are many, and where we hope to locate an impressive diversity of species. A short Scarlet-headed Blackbird Seriema Tours list of possibilities includes Maguari Stork, Long-winged Harrier, Wren-like Rushbird, White-crested Tyrannulet, Spectacled Tyrant, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Baywinged Cowbird, Diademed Tanager, Brown-and-yellow Marshbird and the spectacular Scarlet-headed Blackbird. We ll likely pick up a fine diversity of herons and egrets, with Rufescent Tiger-Heron and Whistling Heron likely. Giant Wood-Rail, Plumbeous Rail, and the local Curve-billed Reedhaunter and Spix s Spinetail are likely as well. Other species typical of grasslands and wooded borders that are possible today include Monk Parakeet, Checkered Woodpecker, Field Flicker, Rufous Hornero (the national bird), Rufous-capped Antshrike, Fork-tailed Flycatcher, White-winged Becard, Masked Gnatcatcher, and Screaming and Shiny cowbirds. We ll spend a full morning here before enjoying an authentic Argentine lunch. Following lunch we ll work other parts of the preserve, exploring the extensive marshlands and forest patches.

15 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 15 We ll return to the hotel in the late afternoon with time to clean up before gathering again for dinner. NIGHT: Feir s Park Hotel, Buenos Aires October 26, Day 4: Morning flight to Trelew; excursion to Punta Tombo. Today we transfer to the domestic airport in Buenos Aires to take a morning flight to Trelew, the gateway to Patagonia. The flight will take about two hours and will see us in Trelew by mid-morning. Our destination today will be Punta Tombo, a narrow peninsula about two hours south of the city of Trelew. Punta Tombo is the breeding site for a colony of nearly one-half million Magellanic Penguins. For obvious reasons, the park service permits access to only a small portion of the colony. Nevertheless, it is an impressive spectacle, and photographic opportunities are superb for both the penguins and other wildlife in the colony or along the adjacent seacoast. Chilean Skuas frequently patrol back and forth over the colony, while Elegant Crested- Tinamous and Least Cavies forage in nearby shrubby areas. Other species White-headed Steamer-Duck Seriema Tours frequently seen among the colony include Scale-throated Earthcreeper, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Patagonian Yellow-Finch. Giant-petrels, Magellanic and Imperial cormorants, Two-banded Plovers, Dolphin Gulls, and South American Terns are often seen on or near the rugged cliffs at the edge of the colony. There should also be an excellent opportunity to study the White-headed Steamer-Duck, an endemic species that occurs only in the vicinity of Punta Tombo. Watching carefully as we drive to and from the penguin colony also may produce views of some of Patagonia's more spectacular large birds and mammals such as Lesser Rhea, Guanaco and Patagonian Cavy. The latter, known locally as Mara, is remarkable in both appearance and behavior and was once described by a National Geographic writer as looking like "a rabbit wearing a miniskirt." Other birds along the road include Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Lesser and Patagonian canasteros, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Mourning Sierra-Finch, and the local and often difficult to find Carbonated Sierra-Finch. Oddest of the group here may be the peculiar subspecies of Rufous-collared Sparrow. It has a mostly gray head. We ll have lunch in a restaurant near the entrance to the penguin colony at Punta Tombo. Note that this will be a long day and that we will not arrive at the hotel until after 6:00 p.m. NIGHT: Hotel Libertador, Trelew October 27, Day 6: Morning birding at Lagunas del Ornitólogo; afternoon at Punta Loma. This morning we ll visit a wetland ecosystem near town named Lagunas del Ornitólogo (Lagoons of the Ornithologist), a set of lakes formed by a depression of the old bed of the Chubut River that nowadays integrates part of the sewage network of Trelew. The combination of water and organics in a semi-desert area attracts waterfowl and other birds in abundance, with some 120 species of birds recorded in the area. Crested Duck, Chiloe Wigeon, Lake Duck, Silvery Grebe, Chilean Flamingo, numerous herons, and Wilson's Phalarope and other shorebirds occur in high numbers. Desert scrub and saline vegetation attracts Austral Negrito, Spectacled Tyrant, and sometimes Least Seedsnipe.

16 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 16 We ll return to the hotel for check-out before proceeding to Puerto Madryn, located near the Valdés Peninsula about 40 miles to the north. We'll enjoy lunch in town and check-in to our rooms before taking an afternoon excursion to Punta Loma, a coastal cape located some 20 minutes east of town. Proclaimed as Punta Loma Provincial Reserve in 1966, it is the first protected area in the province and today is a part of the largely protected area of the Valdés Peninsula. Soon after leaving town, we'll enter high quality scrub habitat, home to a range of birds that includes Patagonian Mockingbird, Gray-bellied Shrike-Tyrant, Southern Martin, Long-tailed Meadowlark, and Common Diuca-Finch among many others. Upon reaching the cape, we ll stop at a lookout located atop a cliff overlooking a small colony of South American Sea Lions. Southern Giant-Petrel, Snowy Sheathbill, and Dolphin Gull are among the expected birdlife, while South American Tern and Magellanic and Imperial cormorants nest nearby. NIGHT: Hotel Dazzler, Puerto Madryn October 28, Day 7: Valdés Peninsula. Today we ll enjoy a full-day excursion to the Valdés Peninsula, located east of Puerto Madryn. The wildlife here is perhaps the most unusual, and in many ways the least familiar, of any fauna in Argentina. The rich birdlife here includes a variety of cormorants, terns, and oystercatchers. South American Sea Lions and Southern Elephant Seals are usually present along the beach, with the beautiful Dolphin Gull and occasional Snowy Sheathbill attending their colonies. Even Orcas can be seen patrolling the beach. Nearby scrub, grassland, dune, and wetland habitats harbor numerous interesting Patagonian species such as Lesser Rhea, Variable Hawk, Patagonian Canastero, Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail, Dolphin Gull Brian Gibbons Rusty-backed Monjita, Austral Negrito, Shortbilled Pipit, Patagonian Yellow-Finch, and often a few surprises as well. Two interesting Patagonian mammals, Patagonian Cavy and Guanaco, are commonly seen here as well. One of the day s highlights will be a boat trip to view Southern Right Whales. From June to December, these gentle giants occupy these southerly waters to mate and give birth to their calves. The whales have a preference for the calm near-shore waters, which makes viewing them easy. We ll only be on the water for about an hour or so, but we should be treated to close encounters with these magnificent animals, perhaps including the sights of whales vaulting high out of the water or raising their flukes aloft. Lunch will be in the field. Our pre-trip will conclude upon our return to the hotel in Puerto Madryn.

17 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 17 TIERRA DEL FUEGO EXTENSION November 7-10, 2018 Ushuaia, capital city of the southernmost Argentine province, Tierra del Fuego, is the base for this optional post-cruise extension. With 65,000 inhabitants, Ushuaia is a thriving port city set amid spectacular surroundings on the southern coast of Tierra del Fuego. Ringed by snow-capped mountains and overlooking the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia and the surrounding environs provide an exciting and stirringly beautiful conclusion to our voyage. Dubbed the land of fire by early explorers because of the fires built by natives along the shores, this stark, cold region of Southern Beech forest and snowy peaks is home to birds that are found almost nowhere else but here. Our time in the land of fire will be short, and we will concentrate on three areas: the area around our hotel on the edge of the city, majestic Tierra del Fuego National Park, and the mountain forest and open spaces in the vicinity of Le Martial Glacier. The timing of our activities will be determined by weather conditions, but we will have time to seek the special birds of the area. We will make a special effort to see the magnificent Magellanic Woodpecker, certainly one of South America s most captivating birds. Along the way we are sure to cross paths with plenty of other birds, most of which are restricted in range to southern South America, a representation of which includes Ashy-headed Goose, Flying Steamer-Duck, Spectacled Duck, Black-faced Ibis, Austral Parakeet, Fireeyed Diucon, Dark-bellied Cinclodes, Chilean Swallow, White-throated Treerunner, and the beautiful Patagonian Sierra-Finch. With a bit of luck, we might even be graced by the appearance of the regal Andean Condor. The extension will be led by VENT tour leader Michael O Brien, and renowned Argentine guide, Marcelo de Cruz. An additional local guide will be added as tour size warrants. November 7, Day 1: Transfer to hotel; afternoon birding around hotel. Our post-cruise extension begins following lunch in Ushuaia, at which time we will receive transfer to our hotel just outside of town (and offering fine views of the Beagle Channel). The remainder of the day will be spent at leisure around the hotel, located right on the shores of the Beagle Channel. An optional afternoon bird walk in a nearby forest patch or along the Pipo River could produce an exciting array of birds. Austral Parakeet, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Austral Negrito, Fire-eyed Diucon, Austral Thrush, and Chilean Swallow are all possible. If we are especially fortunate, we might even enjoy our first encounter with the Magellanic Woodpecker, a bird that in recent years has been seen near our hotel. NIGHT: Hotel Tolkeyen, Ushuaia

18 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 18 November 8, Day 2: Tierra del Fuego National Park. After breakfast we will head to Tierra del Fuego National Park for a day of birding and sightseeing. Our activities will be determined by weather, but we are prepared to spend a full day here searching for a range of localized birds and simply enjoying the sublime scenery of the park. At more than 130,000 acres, Tierra del Fuego National Park sits along the international border with Chile and harbors some of the finest glacial scenery in South America. Alpine lakes, snow peaks, extensive Nothofagus forests (Southern Beech), and rugged mountains characterize Magellanic Woodpecker (male) Seriema Tours the landscape. Although species diversity is more limited at this latitude, the quality of birding in the park is typically very high. In our time here, stops at a number of locations along the road that penetrates into the park s interior could produce an exciting assortment of birds including Black-necked Swan; Ashy-headed Goose; Crested Duck; Flying Steamer-Duck; White-tufted, Silvery, and Great grebes; Black-faced Ibis; Southern Lapwing; Thorn-tailed Rayadito; White-crested Elaenia; Dark-bellied and Buff-winged cinclodes; Dark-faced Ground- Tyrant; Austral Negrito; Fire-eyed Diucon; Chilean Swallow; Austral Blackbird; Black-chinned Siskin; and Patagonian Sierra-Finch. The ultimate prize, however, is the Magellanic Woodpecker, one of the largest and most beautiful woodpeckers in the world. Previous trips have encountered this species at several places in the park. The majority of our activities will center on locating this impressive bird. Our time in the field may also turn up any number of birds that although less common, are distinctly possible nevertheless, including Spectacled Duck, Andean Condor, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Austral Parakeet, Austral Pygmy-Owl, White-throated Caracara, and White-throated Treerunner. Lunch will be in the field inside the park, while dinner will be at the hotel. NIGHT: Hotel Tolkeyen, Ushuaia November 9, Day 3: Le Martial Glacier; departure for home. Our adventure concludes this morning with a couple of hours of birding in a scenic montane setting near Le Martial Glacier. Situated a short distance outside of Ushuaia, Le Martial Glacier, or the Martial Glacier in English, was named for Luis Fernando Martial, who led a French scientific expedition to the area in At over 3,000 feet, the Glacier and surrounding terrain sit at or above treeline in an extensively alpine environment. Although the glacier, like so many others, has receded nearly into extinction, the area overall is one of considerable beauty and serves as a prime site of year-round outdoor recreation.

19 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 19 At the foot of the recreation area, a ski lift will transport visitors from the forested base of the mountain into the alpine zone. Here, we will search for a variety of birds. Tops on the list is White-bellied Seedsnipe, a scarce and difficult-to-find seed-eating member of the shorebird family that occurs at the highest life zone. Overall, the birdlife is similar to that of what we saw in the national park, but perhaps with greater chances for higher elevation species, such as Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant and Yellow-bridled Finch. NOTE: Our objective is to ride the ski lift to the upper elevation life zone for birding; however, the company that operates the ski lift is unpredictable in that the lift is often not in operation. If this is the case, we will spend our time birding the forest and open areas lower on the mountain. Regardless, with beautiful mountains all around and the Beagle Channel in front of us, this location is truly a wonderful setting with which to end our journey. In the late morning, we will transfer to the airport for departing flights to Buenos Aires. Flights should not be scheduled to depart prior to 11:00 a.m. NIGHT: Aboard commercial aircraft November 10, Day 4: Arrive home. International flights departing Buenos Aires on the night of November 9 arrive in the United States this morning. ** This tour schedule depends closely on internal flights, which may require us to alter the itinerary slightly from that listed but with all of the activities still being completed. TOUR SIZE: The Ortelius holds 116 guests, of which VENT has reserved 40 spaces for this voyage. If registrations do not warrant this size of an allotment, the cruise company may sell any unsold berths to the general public. The Buenos Aires & Northern Patagonia Pre-trip and Tierra del Fuego Extension will each be limited to 30 participants. TOUR LEADERS: The cruise will be led by Michael O Brien, Louise Zemaitis, and Barry Zimmer. Seabird expert Brian Patteson, and expert geologist Kitty Coley will join the staff of Oceanwide Expeditions. The Buenos Aires & Northern Patagonia Pre-trip will be led by Michael O Brien, Hector Slongo, and another local guide to be announced (if tour size warrants). The Tierra del Fuego Extension will be led by Michael O Brien, Marcelo de Cruz, and another local guide to be announced (as tour size warrants). Michael O Brien is a freelance artist, author, and environmental consultant living in Cape May, New Jersey. He has a passionate interest in bird vocalizations and field identification, and a serious addiction to migration and nocturnal birding. His travels have taken him throughout North and Central America and beyond. At home in Cape May, Michael serves as an Associate Naturalist with Cape May Bird Observatory for whom he conducts numerous workshops, and, for many years, conducted a fall songbird migration count. He is co-author of The Shorebird Guide, Flight Calls of Migratory Birds, and America s 100 Most Wanted Birds, and is primary author of Larkwire, an online and handheld application for learning bird sounds. His illustrations have been widely published in books and field guides, including the National Geographic Field Guide to the Birds of North America and the new Peterson field guides. Michael also has an intense interest in butterflies, leads several Birds & Butterflies tours with his wife, Louise Zemaitis, and is coordinator of the Cape May Butterfly Count.

20 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 20 Louise Zemaitis is an artist and naturalist living in Cape May, New Jersey where she is a popular field trip leader teaching birding workshops as an Associate Naturalist with New Jersey Audubon s Cape May Bird Observatory. She also enjoys leading birding groups and lecturing at birding festivals and is known for her enthusiasm for all natural history subjects. Louise and her husband, Michael O Brien, have been guiding young birders at birding events and conferences for many years. In addition to leading, Louise is coordinator of the Monarch Monitoring Project in Cape May, compiler of the Cape May Christmas Bird Count, and owner of Swallowtail Studio at West End Garage in Cape May. An honors graduate of Temple University s Tyler School of Art, she enjoys working as a freelance artist and her illustrations have been widely published. Her proudest accomplishment has been the raising of her two sons, Bradley, a biologist and artist, and Alec, a philosopher and musician. Barry Zimmer has been birding since the age of eight. His main areas of expertise lie in North and Central America, but his travels have taken him throughout much of the world, including such exotic locales as Japan, Russia, Madagascar, Africa, and New Zealand. Barry is a longtime member of the New Mexico Bird Records Committee, and served on the Texas Bird Records Committee for 12 years. He has co-authored three books: Birds of the Trans-Pecos, A Birder's Guide to the Rio Grande Valley, and Birds and Birdfinding in the El Paso Area. Barry has a keen interest in nature photography, having captured over 1,000 species of birds on film. His other interests include sports (a diehard Red Sox fan), cooking, and movies. He received his degree in psychology at the University of Texas in El Paso. Barry resides in El Paso with his wife, Yvonne, and their daughter, Alexandra. Héctor Slongo was born in northern Italy and as a child moved to Córdoba province, Argentina, where he currently lives. He was raised in the countryside, in direct contact with the natural world, and from an early age developed a great passion for nature. Héctor s specific interest in birds began when he was eight, and now he is a keen birder who has birded all over Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Great Britain, and of course, Italy. He has led birding trips for many years throughout Argentina and Bolivia, accompanying VENT trips since Héctor is also a bird illustrator and is currently working with some of the plates of the forthcoming book, Birds of Bolivia. His birding skills and friendly personality make him a great guide and the perfect travel companion. Marcelo de Cruz (53) started his career as a naturalist and birdwatcher at the age of 22. After completing his studies of tourism in Buenos Aires, he moved to Tierra del Fuego in Since then he has explored every corner of this island in search of its unique wildlife, and has developed a special ability to find all of its birds, including the least common species. He is also familiar with virtually all the flora and fauna of the Magellanic forests, steppes, high mountains, and seashores in Tierra del Fuego, and cooperates with the National Parks Administration in developing tourism as a sustainable option for conservation. He lives in Ushuaia with his wife, Paula, and his daughter, María Catalina.

21 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 21 Brian Patteson grew up near the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia, but has a keen interest in seabirds, which began over 30 years ago when he started organizing pelagic trips off the coasts of Virginia and North Carolina. In 1995, Brian moved to Hatteras, North Carolina in order to run a more extensive schedule of birding trips to the Gulf Stream. Since that time, thousands of birders have traveled to the Outer Banks to participate on these trips. In addition to providing an exciting day offshore and encounters with some otherwise nearly impossible to see species, Brian s trips have helped redefine our knowledge about seabird distribution in the western North Atlantic. As a result, some species such as the Bermuda Petrel, which were previously unknown, are now known to be regular visitors to the waters off Cape Hatteras. In 2006, Brian, a U.S.C.G. licensed master to 100 gross tons, began running nearly all of these trips on his own boat. When he is not leading birding trips, Brian runs fishing charters and cruises aboard the Stormy Petrel II. He also relishes the occasional trip to the Southern Ocean, as albatrosses are few and far between in the North Atlantic. Kitty Coley is a geologist, naturalist, and avid birder who has led natural history tours for the National Geographic Society and Smithsonian Institute for over 20 years. Tour destinations have included Costa Rica, Panama, Mexico, the Galapagos, Ecuador, the Peruvian Amazon and Andes, Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Cuba, Antarctica, Alaska, Newfoundland, Labrador, and Iceland, as well as the western United States and Canada. Other nature travels have taken her to East Africa, Australia, Belize, Honduras, and Bolivia. Her love of nature has led to exploration through scuba diving, backpacking, white-water and sea kayaking, and biking. She serves as a consultant to National Geographic magazine for articles related to her expertise. Trained as a geologist, Kitty s knowledge of the earth and her love of nature and ornithology, combined with her interactive and enthusiastic teaching style, make her a highly effective and popular leader. Kitty received her MS in geology from the University of Texas at Austin in addition to a BA in geology with a minor in biology from UT. She worked as a geologist for 15 years before becoming involved full-time in nature tourism. Kitty lives in Austin. CRUISE INFORMATION FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: Cabin prices quoted are per person based on double occupancy. All staterooms are outside cabins with two lower beds or one double bed (Superior cabins), and private shower and toilet. Cabins will be reserved on a first-come, first-served basis. Those single travelers who wish to share their cabin room will be guaranteed the double occupancy fare whether a cabin-mate is available. A limited number of guaranteed single cabins are available at 1.7 X the double occupancy rate. Superior $ 10,095 Twin Deluxe $ 9,495 Twin Window $ Twin Porthole $ 7,995 Included in your cruise package: Land transfers in Buenos Aires, Trelew; and Puerto Madryn as stated in the itinerary Accommodations: Shipboard (9 nights, Days 3-11); Non-shipboard (1 night; Day 2) All shipboard meals, including snacks, coffee and tea Non-shipboard meals including dinner in Puerto Madryn on Day 2; breakfast and lunch in Puerto Madryn on Day 3. Zodiac excursions Services of ship staff and crew, and VENT leaders On-board medical officer Landing fees and port charges

22 Circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands, Page 22 Not included in your cruise package: ALL air transportation Hotel accommodations other than those stated in the itinerary Meals prior to dinner on Day 2 or after breakfast on Day 12 Land transfers other than those stated in the itinerary Soft drinks and alcoholic beverages Items of a personal nature including laundry, postage, telephone calls, s and internet usage Travel insurance such as emergency evacuation insurance, medical, accident, lost baggage, and trip cancellation Medical services Passport or visa fees (if applicable) Excess baggage charges Airport arrival and departure taxes Gratuities to ship staff, expedition leader, and lecturers Fuel surcharges (if applicable) The M/V Ortelius Deck Plan