November 15 th. November 17 th

Transcription

1 Itinerary November 15 th : Arrive Kathmandu November 16 th : Nagarjun Forest edge Kathmandu November 17 th : Bus to Shyaphbru Besi November 18 th : Shyaphbru Besi to Khangjim (2) November 19 th : Khangjim to Briddim November 20 th : Briddim to Thuman (4) November 21 th : Thuman to Nagathali (5) November 22 st : Nagathali to Shyaphbru (6) November 23 nd : Shyaphbru to Bamboo November 24 rd : Bamboo to Rhimche (8) November 25 th : Rhimche to Ghodatabela (9) November 26 th : Ghodatabela to Langtang November 27 th : Langtang to Kjanjin Gumba November 28 th : Tserko Ri peak above Kjanjin Ghumba November 29 th : Kjanjn Ghumba to riverside (13) November 30 th : Riverside to Bamboo December 1 st : Bamboo to Thulo Shyapru (15) December 2 nd : Thulo Shyapru to Shin Gumpa December 3 rd : Shin Gumpa to Gosainkunda December 4 th : Gosainkunda to Ghopte December 5 th : Ghopte to Mangengoth December 6 th : Mangengoth to Chipling December 7 th : Chipling to Mulkharka December 8 th : Mulkharka to Sundarijal, back to Kathmandu December 9 th -10 th : Nagarjun Forest Kathmandu

2 November 15 th After a delayed flight via Deli, and a failed 1 st landing due to poor visibility, I finally arrived into Kathmandu 24 hours later than originally planned. Sharing a taxi from the airport to Thamel I quickly picked up my first House Crow and Black Kites en route, with Common Tailorbird and Oriental Magpie Robin in the trees around Hostel Himalaya and three Rose-ringed Parakeets overhead. November 16 th My first chance for some birding saw me head up to the corner of the Nagarjun forest reserve (about 30 minutes walk from the hostel) which had proved to be a productive area on my first visit, back in December A female Hodgson s Redstart was something of a surprise, feeding in the river close to the main bus park, along with two Grey Wagtail a single Cattle Egret and numerous Black Kites. Arriving at the edge of the forest 27 44'40.1"N 85 17'41.9"E quickly found Himalayan and Redvented Bulbuls, feeding on fruiting berries below the road, with two groups of raucous Red-billed Blue Magpies and the first of many Grey-hooded Warblers. Two White-rumped Munias feeding newly fledged chicks were rather unexpected whilst two very vocal Grey-throated Babblers (my first Nepali tick of the trip) also indicated the presence of nearby young. After an initially slow start, things picked up a short distance beyond the entrance for the national park entrance, with both Grey and Rufous Treepies together in the bins as well as close views of both Greater Yellownape and Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker. Lemon-rumped, Blyth s Leaf and Hume s Warblers fed in typically restless fashion, mostly higher up, whilst a group of at least 20 Scarlet Minivet came down from the canopy to feed and perch at eye level. Further variety was provided by Black-throated and Black-lored Tits, five Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, four Blue-throated Barbet and at least 15 Oriental White Eye, with single Speckled Piculet, White-bellied Epornis and Grey-backed Shrike. Two Whistlers Warbler and four Black-chinned Babblers were in the tangle of forest undergrowth and several Grey-headed Canary Flycatchers actively fed with mixed tit and warbler flocks, whilst two Steppe Eagles and around 40 Black Kites could be seen flying low over the city. In the afternoon I made my way to the Nepal Tourism Board to obtain my TIMS permit (2000 rupees for a Free Individual Trekking permit) for the Langtang trek; a hassle free, simple affair that took all of about 10 minutes. November 17 th Bus to Shyaphbru Besi for 600 rupees (booked the previous day from the bus stand ticket counter) leaving Kathmandu from the Machha Pokhari bus stand 27 44'07.3"N 85 18'19.9"E at the corner of the outer ring road for 06:30. The trips only White-throated Kingfisher and Common Sandpiper were seen from the bus, as were three Pied Bushchats, several Black Drongos and groups of about 20 Red-rumped Swallow and 30 Cattle Egret. A stop to refuel supplies and change bus tyres allowed for some excellent views of at least four low flying Steppe Eagles, with a stop at the entrance for Langtang National Park to check luggage and pay entrance fees (3390 rupees) revealing my first Nutcracker and Rufous Sibia. Arriving into Syabrubesi for about 16:30, a large flock of well over 100 Nepal House Martin were hawking within the river valley opposite the town, joined by three Himalayan Swiftlets towards dusk. November 18 th The day began with Long-tailed Shrike, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker and a pair of Hodgson s Redstart, seen on the edge of the town just before crossing the main Trishuli River, where I then took the tack following the river to Wangal, before climbing up towards

3 Khangjim. My first Striated Prinias skulked in the grass at the start of the trail where a small feeding group also included my first Green-backed Tits and Ashy-throated Warblers. A pair of Whitebrowed Shrike Babbler fed in pines below Wangal, with Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Yellowbellied Fantail and three brief Yellow-breasted Greenfinch also being seen en route, after which I was able to join up with the main track road, where an obliging Brown-fronted Woodpecker provided my first lifer of the trip. Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Rufous-breasted Accentor and Orange-bellied Leafbird were also present, before heading off road and up through the pine forests to arrive at Bhanjyang picking up my first female Spot-winged Rosefinch several Fire-tailed Sunbirds and three Kalij Pheasant, in the bamboo just below the guesthouse. Having eaten and dropped off some of my things in the room I set off mid afternoon in the direction of Khangjim seeing the first of many Blue-fronted Redstarts, several Olive-backed Pipit and a close group of 14 Plain Mountain Finch around the terraced hillsides. Two Cinerous Vulture were something of an unexpected treat, whilst a blossoming cherry tree, on the edge of the next section of forest, attracted numerous Rufous Sibia, Fire-tailed Sunbird and Black-lored Tit along with at least 20 Rufous-vented and 15 Stripe-throated Yuhinas. Two Whiskered Yuhinas were in the bushes nearby along with single Streaked and Variegated Laughingthrushes. Looking back towards Shyaphbru Besi November 19 th The day began with my first Oriental Turtle Dove, seen from the outside dining area of the guesthouse, swiftly followed by a flock of 25 Snow Pigeon which dropped down into the ploughed terraces. Blue Whistling Thrush, Long-tailed Shrike and a pair of Hodgson s Redstart were seen on route to Khangjim, along with more Aberrant Bush Warblers, Variegated and Streaked Laughingthrush, which held the biggest surprise of the day; two Eurasian Woodpigeons, an erratic winter visitor to Nepal. Entering the main stand of forest gave me my first White-tailed Nuthatch and Bar-throated Minla, with subsequent mixed feeding flocks holding three Yellow-browed Tits and another White-browed Shrike Babbler. Nutcrackers were particularly evident, carrying pine cones between the trees and a male Besra initially flushed from the edge of the track provided what was probably the highlight of the day, quickly settling to give prolonged perched views at close range. My first Himalayan Bluetail and a couple more Kalij Pheasant were seen on the walk through,

4 where a high pitched call eventually revealed itself to be my first Maroon-backed Accentor. Arriving into Briddim provided the trips first Red-headed Bulfinch, where an afternoon exploration of the forest above the village found a female White-browed Bush Robin and my first two Spotted Laughingthrush. November 20 th A morning walk before breakfast, heading back in the direction of Kangjim, found the bushes at the forest edge to hold a high level of early morning activity, including Green-backed Tits, Black-chinned Babbler, Bar-throated Minla, Whiskered Yuhinas, Rufous-breasted Accentors and four Red-headed Bullfinches. At least ten White-throated Laughingthrush, four Pink-browed Rosefinch and a single Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler were all additions to the trip list, as was a Eurasian Woodcock, which flew up from the edge of a narrow stream, cutting across the path. Having flushed a single bird from the terraces alongside the track the previous afternoon, I was able to catch further brief views of Plain-backed Thrush, with three sightings, possibly all relating to the same individual. On each occasion, birds were flushed at close range and promptly disappeared into the vegetation, meaning that, for now, it was to be flight views only. Six Yellow-breasted Greenfinches gave close perched views, before finding myself on the main track through the pines, adding my first three Black Bulbul and only Golden-throated Barbet of the trip along with a second group of at least 30 White-throated Laughingthrush. Multiple groups of Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush and my first three Nepal Jays appeared whilst winding downhill towards the main river, where further mixed feeding groups attracted Fire-tailed Sunbirds, Oriental White-eye and Fire-breasted Flowerpecker. Several Himalayan Bluetail were joined by a surprise female Slaty-backed Flycatcher (a good local record) whilst the weedy trackside vegetation revealed a typically vocal Grey-sided Bush Warbler, alongside more Striated Prinia and Aberrant Bush Warblers. Arriving at the river, its exposed rock faces offered close views of the trips first Wallcreeper, after which I crossed over and climbed up the other side of the valley to reach Thuman, where a short afternoon exploration from the Guesthouse found numerous Blue-fronted Redstart and Variegated Laughingthrush, as well as both Pinkbrowed and Beautiful Rosefinch. November 21 st A morning pre breakfast return, to the terraces above the guesthouse got the day off to a good start with good views of three Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers and a bonus Tickell s Leaf Warbler, a species which summers at higher elevations but by now (and still at over 2000m) I would have expected to have moved to lower altitudes. A flock of 45 Plain Mountain Finch appeared a short way beyond the guesthouse, with a lone Speckled Woodpigeon seen in flight on the edge of the mature pine forest, sadly heading all too quickly away into the glare of the sun, along with more Streaked Laughingthrush and at least 20 Beautiful Rosefinch around the semi open scrub. Other than a few Rufous Sibias, the pine forests themselves were pretty quiet, though my first Mountain Hawk Eagle did make a brief appearance, seen flying overhead through a small gap in the forest. Arriving into Nagathali, I decided to continue onwards through further stands of pine forests, which proved to be rather more productive than those that I had come through on the walk up. Mixed tit flocks included my first Grey-crested and Rufous-vented Tits, with three White-browed Fulvetta, more Ashy-throated Warblers and my first Hodgson s Treecreeper. Two Darjeeling Woodpeckers gave excellent views, with one bird feeding on a broken tree stump just a few metres of the ground, and several small parties of Black-faced Laughingthrush put in their first appearance; something that would prove to be a common sight over the coming days. After what had been a quiet period for raptors I was finally able to see my first three Himalayan Griffons, on route to the

5 view point, where three inquisitive female White-browed Rosefinch offered some close views amongst the juniper forest. A male White-browed Bush Robin paused briefly on the track on the walk back where four Spot-winged Rosefinch and another two Spotted Laughingthrush fed amongst the forest undergrowth, with several Red-headed Bulfinch and at least five Himalayan Bluetails also seen en route. The final highlight of the day came in the form of at least 20 Rufous-fronted Tit, feeding close to Nagathali, where I would spend the night. November 22 nd The day started with several Beautiful Rosefinch, Black-faced and Variegated Laughingthrush and at least five Yellow-billed Blue Magpies around the guest house surroundings, where an isolated few tall trees attracted a female White-collared Blackbird, two Black-throated Thrush and one Redthroated Thrush, catching the early morning rays of sun from the exposed upper branches. Retracing my steps, part way through the forest in the direction of the viewpoint, soon revealed my first White-winged Grosbeak in the same collection of trees, with three male and one female Collared Grosbeak feeding low overhead on winged sycamore seeds. My first Rock Buntings were feeding back out in the open areas around the guesthouses where a second isolated stand of trees, complete with berry laden bushes, attracted two more White-winged Grosbeaks and a bonus Dusky Thrush, with either the same or another Red-throated Thrush and a couple of male White-collared Blackbird. Walking back down to Thuman, I cut across towards Mendo, before crossing back over the river and into Shyaphbru Besi where highlights included a mixed group of Bar-throated Minla and White-browed Fulvetta, a flock of at least 40 Plain Mountain Finch, another Wallcreeper and my first Lammergeier. The main river finally gave up its first Forktail of the trip, with a Little Forktail feeding just below the road, along with the ever present Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts, whilst the bridge of a nearby side stream allowed me to look down on a Brown Dipper, and watch as it propelled itself under water. November 23 rd A steady walk from Shyaphbru Besi to Bamboo, with a pleasant selection of highlights and trip additions, even if the overall species number was rather lower than it had been for the previous few days. Two Scaly-breasted Wren Babblers were singing, just a few meters apart from one another on the edge of the track, though managed to remain concealed, despite sounding as though they were only just in from the edge of the vegetation. In stark contrast Chestnut-headed Tesias proved to be surprisingly easy, with no less than six individuals being seen over the course of the day, one of which gave particularly fine views, in what looked like a territorial display, flicking both wings in synchrony from a fallen tree trunk. Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, a male Black-throated Sunbird and multiple Whistler s Warblers provided further highlights, as did three Mountain Hawk Eagles seen together in flight over the ridge opposite the hot springs, where six Rock Doves and a Wallcreeper were present on the rock faces, surrounding the Giant Rock Bee nests. A vigil in the hope of Yellowrumped Honeyguide sadly drew a blank but did produce an obliging group of at least four Blackfaced Warblers (one of my main trip targets) whilst a strong contender for bird of the day came thanks to a Long-billed Thrush which flew across the path, pausing briefly on a moss covered boulder on the edge of a narrow stream. An afternoon walk from the guesthouse at Bamboo gave excellent views of a Little Forktail (one of six seen during the day) and three Brown Dipper, with at least 20 Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, my first Striated Laughingthrush and another group of Black-faced Warbler as well as the added bonus of two Yellow-throated Marten, crossing over the boulder scree behind the guesthouse late afternoon.

6 Looking downriver from Bamboo November 24 th A short initial walk from bamboo, with no particular plan of how far I would get during the day, found me stopping at Rimche (just before the maim cluster of guesthouses at Lama Hotel) where before I knew it, I was finding a room and offloading my gear. The initial soft chattering call of a Bay Woodpecker and a lunch stop Golden Eagle were both Nepal ticks, with the broadleaf forest hosting frequent groups of Rufous Sibia, Stripe-throated and Rufous-vented Yuhinas, Ashy-throated and Grey-hooded Warblers, more Striated Laughingthrush and several White-tailed Nuthatch. Two Scaly Laughingthrush; one of six Laughingthrush species recorded during the day, showed up next to the track, on an afternoon walk up towards Lama Hotel, where two Plain-backed Thrush, my first Bluecapped Redstart and a very obliging Rusty-flanked Treecreeper all gave good views. The trips first Green-shrike Babbler, and another three Yellow-browed Tit, fed just beyond the guesthouses, after which it was a return to Rhimche where a diverse feeding flock provided a fitting end to the day. Eight White-throated Laughingthrush gave way to good numbers of Fire-tailed Sunbirds, all three Yuhinas, several Bar-throated Minlas, White-tailed Nuthatch and Ashy-throated Warblers, with single Buff-barred Warbler, White-throated Fantail, Hoary-throated Barwing and Crimson-breasted Woodpecker all putting in their first appearances. November 25 th Three Spotted Laughingthrushes and my first male Green-tailed Sunbird were seen close to the guesthouse at Rhimche, along with a repeat performance by most of the common species seen the previous afternoon, with a Maroon-backed Accentor and possibly the same Plain-backed Thrush around Lama Hotel. Highlights of the walk to Pering Kharka, where I would choose to spend the night, included Darjeeling Woodpecker, my first two Spotted Forktails, an obliging Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler and a group of five Red Crossbills, located by the constant supply of displaced larch seeds, falling down from the highest branches. Emerging into the valley revealed four Himalayan Griffons, three Golden Eagle and two Common Buzzard patrolling the high ridges, with another 13 Maroon-backed Accentor, Blue-capped Redstart, 50 Plain Mountain Finch and 20 Beautiful Rosefinch seen in the vicinity of the guesthouse, where a total of 59 Large-billed Crows moved down the valley to roost late afternoon. My first Himalayan Thars were also watched crossing the remains of a mountain landslide, before scrambling up and away along an almost vertical slope, with a solitary Wild Boar also appearing on the mountainside.

7 November 26 th A change in habitats, with the pine forests now behind me. Searching the buckthorn scrub around the guesthouse found a couple of Green Shrike Babbler; three Spot winged Rosefinch, four Maroon-backed Accentors and five White-browed Fulvetta, with further sightings of Golden Eagle, Lammergeier and Himalayan Griffons overhead. Rufous-breasted Accentor, Beautiful Rosefinch, Streaked, Variegated and Black-faced Laughingthrushes would all prove to be a common sight around the prickly scrub, with some extra variety added by Blue-capped Redstart, a female Whitebrowed Bush Robin, three Wallcreepers, two Rock Buntings and five very tame White-winged Grosbeaks. A Ringtail Hen Harrier put in a brief appearance; flying at roughly 5000m altitude and several flocks of Red billed Chough moved up and down the valley, the largest of which numbered around 150 birds. The most impressive sight of the day, however, went to a flock of at least 400 Snow Pigeons flying in tight formation, low over the valley floor, with several other flocks of around 100 flying along the higher mountain ridges. My first two Alpine Choughs made a brief landing on the roof of the nights guesthouse where, after a spot of lunch, I stayed on to spend a while scanning the ridges above. Having refreshed myself with a much needed hot solar powered shower I set off, covering the short distance towards Langtang, to check the lower slopes in the hope of Monals, crossing the bleak avalanche of rock and ice that had gouged the landscape and devastated the village. Seeing my first Altai Accentors on route, I arrived at the outer edge of the village where, to my surprise, a Himalayan Monal suddenly started calling from the closest slopes. A few seconds later and I found myself watching Nepal s national bird; a dazzling male that gave some good views before the fog rolled down and the bird was lost to view. Looking towards Langtang, and the avalanche that buried the old village November 27 th Largely a repeat of the previous day, with two male Himalayan Monals observed from the guesthouse in much better light, and at closer range, whilst waiting for breakfast. Blue-capped Redstart, Rufous-vented Tit, White-browed Fulvetta, single White-winged Grosbeak and Rock Bunting were around the guesthouse, with another flock of around 200 Snow Pigeon seen on the walk up to Kanjin Gompha, along with my first three (two male one female) White-throated Redstarts of the trip and a large flock of about 150 Altai Accentor. A close fly past by a low flying

8 Lammergeier even prompted one trekker to declare the bird in question as her first wildlife of the trip! Oh you know, the big stuff I think she needed to look harder. Arriving into Kjanjn Ghumba, I explored the gravel river beds, just beyond the village, which in the summer months are home to breeding Ibisbill. As expected I was too late in the season, but did pick up my only White-throated Dipper of the trip, as well as a minimum of eight Brown Dippers; six of which could be seen in one binocular view! November 28 th After the previous afternoon, which had seen the lower valley enveloped by low cloud and a light sprinkling of wet snow, the day started, as usual, with clear skies and excellent visibility. Having consulted the map before coming out, and knowing that I wanted to reach one of the higher peaks, I set off up the valley to try and reach the summit of Tserko Ri which, at an altitude of 4985m, would hopefully put me within the realm of Snowcocks. As expected the species list for the day was minimal (nine species to be precise) but got off to a decent start with some superb views of Lammergeier and a group of 12 Himalayan Griffons. My first Grandala put on an excellent show, with an impressive flock of 350 birds low overhead, wheeling about over the mountainside, a bird who s distinctive flight took me by surprise and reminded me very much of Woodswallows. The slow climb upwards found Red-billed and Alpine Chough and another 40 Altai Accentor, with a large group of Himalayan Thar on the flat ground below the summit, set against the spectacular backdrop of the Langtang glacier. Now tantalisingly close, the final ascent to the summit came to an abrupt halt when the alarm calls of what was obviously a gamebird, gave away the presence of three Tibetan Snowcocks, feeding amongst the nearby rocks. Settling down to watch with the scope, the birds were in no hurry to move on and easily took their place as the number one bird of the trip. Walking back down from the summit prayer flags allowed a look at more Grandala, this time with the advantage of being above the birds, with a second group of seven Tibetan Snowcocks giving an unexpected opportunity for further close views. Looking down on Kjanjn Ghumba, from Tserko Ri

9 November 29 th The day started with at least 50 Alpine Chough around Kjanjn Ghumba, many of which had clearly become habituated to local people, with several very tame birds feeding on left out food scraps around the buildings. Three Robin Accentor, feeding on the edge of the village, were a new addition to the trip list, after which I made my way up the opposite hillside and into the birch woodland where, after showing an illustration of Blood Pheasant to one of the guesthouse owners, I was informed that birds were indeed present. Interestingly the man was also quick to recognise the illustrations of Koklass Pheasant which, I was told, could be found around Ghodatabela. Unluckily for me, the closest that I was to come was two sets of grouse-like droppings which I could only imagine would have come from the desired Blood Pheasant, or possibly Himalayan Monal. Three Whitebrowed Rosefinch gave close views on the edge of the woodland which, as well as being a pheasant free zone, proved be a surprisingly quiet all round, with the only avian representations being a couple of Grey crested Tits. A Spotted Forktail fed in one of the narrow streams opposite the main river, shortly before crossing back over at Mundu, where the likes of Rufous-breasted Accentor, Streaked Laughingthrush and Beautiful Rosefinch were all easily found. A flock of at least 15 Rufous fronted Tit gave particularly close views around Ghodatabela, as did Hodgson s Treecreeper, Green Shrike Babbler, Maroon-backed Accentor and White-winged Grosbeak, with a calling Scaly-bellied Woodpecker, briefly glimpsed in flight on route to riverside, where I spent the night. November 30 th The morning started with Brown Dipper and a Spotted Forktail, watched from the dining hut, with Blue-capped Redstart and male Himalayan Bluetail, 20 Black-faced Laughingthrush, and at least 30 Rufous-fronted Tits in the immediate forest. Two male White-browed Shrike Babblers, three Spotwinged Rosefinch and three Rusty-flanked Treecreepers were seen between Riverside and Rhimche, which proved to just as productive as on the walk up with White-throated Fantail, at least four Buffbarred Warblers and three Hoary-throated Barwing, alongside Bar-throated Minla, more Yuhinas, Fire tailed Sunbirds and Rufous Sibias. Five Black-faced Warblers appeared a short distance further along the trail, along with a fast moving group of around twelve Black-throated Parrotbills, before arriving back into Bamboo where, after a bite to eat, I set off to try my luck at the Rock Bee nests and give myself another chance at connecting with the Honeyguide. Two calling (heard only) Chestnut-headed Tesia, several Striated Laughingthrush, a brief Plain-backed thrush, and the trips only Chestnut-crowned Warbler were seen on the walk down where after around an hour s wait, a Yellow-rumped Honeyguide suddenly appeared, hanging upside down on the pale wax of the bee nests, chased on several occasions by a Wallcreeper which was also watched clinging to, and probing, the exposed areas of honeycomb. A male Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush was seen to make several brief trips, flying from isolated cliff face bushes to pick off bees from around the colony, with a female appearing on the track on the walk back. December 1 st A morning return to the bee nests produced further, albeit brief, views of the Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, this time in rather better light, with a pair of Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush and a Whitecapped Water Redstart paying visits to the colony as well as the seemingly resident Wallcreeper. Seven Rock Dove were again beneath the overhanging ledges, set back into the cliff face, with a Mountain Hawk Eagle over the ridgeline above and ten Whiskered Yuhinas in the trees next to the path. A Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher was present outside the guesthouse, with what was a relatively quiet walk down to Shyaphbru Besi yielding Yellow-bellied Fantail, Spotted Forktail, heard only

10 Chestnut-headed Tesia and Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, Striated and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Whistler s, Ashy-throated and three groups of at least five Black-faced Warblers. Winding uphill to Thulo Shyapru found a second Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, along with a calling Great Barbet, a surprise Hair-crested Drongo and the highlight of the day, in the form of a male Hill Partridge, scraping through the leaf litter besides the track. The day finished with five Rufous Turtle Doves, in the pines below the village. December 2 nd Of all the species, included within the trip list of my previous trip to Nepal, Golden Bush Robin was one which, although I had undoubtedly seen, I needed to put to rest. The briefest glimpse of a male, darting across the path in front of me, was all that I had to show for my first efforts. Despite the surrounding terraces looking relatively unpromising, with largely sparse and broken cover, an obliging male gave multiple close range views, frequently uttering its soft rattling call; a useful one to know, for a normally skulking species. A flock of 250 Snow Pigeons were flying over the valley and a female Eurasian Sparrowhawk made a close fly past, briefly pausing on the edge of the terraces below the path. Making my way through the mixed pine and rhododendron forest above the village provided some of the best habitat, seen during the course of the day which, unsurprisingly, also proved the most productive. A female White-browed Bush Robin appeared on the track, with at least 20 White-throated Laughingthrush, mixed groups of Whiskered and Rufous-vented Yuhinas, a male Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, and four Streak-breasted Scimitar Babblers around the lower forest edge, along with a brief appearance from a Yellow-throated Marten. Plain-backed Thrush, Green-tailed Sunbird and Kalij Pheasant were seen slightly higher up, though the remainder of the walk to Shin Gumpa was largely a quiet affair, picking up four Himalayan Bluetails and the usual Rufous Sibias, Nutcrackers, Yellow-billed Blue Magpies and Blue Whistling Thrush on route. A mixed feeding flock, containing Rusty flanked Treecreeper, Variegated Laughingthrush, Green Shrike Babbler, two Darjeeling Woodpeckers, five Yellow-browed, several Rufous-vented and at least 30 Rufous fronted Tits added variety, with Goldcrest, three Spot-winged Rosefinch and a Mountain Hawk Eagle around Shin Gumpa. December 3 rd A fairly quiet day, walking largely through pine and juniper forest, with frequent Coal and Rufousvented Tits, two Spotted and at least 20 Black-faced Laughingthrush, White-browed Fulvettas, Stripe-throated Yuhinas and eight Red-headed Bullfinch. Two Himalayan Swiftlets were the first I had seen, since arriving into Shyaphbru Besi, and a Golden Eagle appeared opposite the guesthouse at Laurabina, where I had originally planned to spend the night. Setting off again early afternoon, to explore the route towards Gosainkunda not only gave me my first Red-fronted Rosefinch, but also the information I needed to confirm how I would spend the remainder of my time, thanks to meeting another solo trekker who had made it from Sundarijal to Gosainkunda in only three days. With a week still remaining, I knew I had plenty of time to complete the remainder of the trek, not only giving me a chance to explore a new area but helpfully avoiding another 8 hours bus journey back to Kathmandu. No brainer! Returning back downhill to collect what I had left at the guesthouse, I continued up to the sacred lakes of Gosainkunda, finding a flock of 18 Grandala and a surprise Blue-fronted Redstart; a common species, which at 4300m, was well above its normal altitudinal range.

11 Approaching Gosainkunda December 4 th A morning, hanging around the guesthouse at Gosainkunda gave plenty of time to admire close views of several very tame Red-fronted Rosefinch and Alpine Accentors as well as a close Pika, which emerged from one of the stone walls. The walk to the Laurabina pass (4600m) was refreshingly easy, with only a small layering of snow and an easy to follow trail, though despite frequent scanning, my hoped for Snow Partridge managed to avoid detection. Two groups (18, 20) of Grandala put in an appearance and another four Red-fronted Rosefinch included one male which, after stepping directly over it, flew a few metres and continue to feed, completely unconcerned! The walk to Pedi, where I would stop for lunch, found Blue-capped and White-throated Redstarts, White-browed Rosefinch, further Alpine and Altai Accentors, and an immature Golden Eagle, with a group of twelve Himalayan Griffons together over the high ridges and a male Himalayan Monal in the low bamboo next to the track. Despite the habitat holding some of the most extensive areas of bamboo that I had walked through (mixed with juniper and rhododendron) the walk from Pedi to Ghopte was surprisingly quiet, with a Black-throated Thrush being the only new species of note, in addition to the now expected Black-faced Laughingthrush, White-browed Fulvetta and Whitewinged Grosbeaks. Thankfully the day was to finish on a welcome high, with a lone Great Parrotbill, perched in the bamboo not far from the guesthouse, where the trips first Dark-breasted Rosefinch came in to feed on left out rice scraps. December 5 th After admiring several very tame Black-faced Laughingthrush and White-browed Fulvetta, attracted to the morning handout of chicken feed, I returned back along the trail to the area where I had seen the previous days Great Parrotbill. A male White-browed Bush Robin (the first of four to be seen during the day) showed at close range on the track, with at least eight White-browed Rosefinch feeding amongst the bamboo, where a Hume s Bush Warbler more than made up for the lack of Parrotbills. Keeping in theme with the previous days, the walk to Mangengoth was fairly quiet, despite the largely unspoilt habitat at the start of the trail, with three Black-throated Thrush, 35 Plain Mountain Finch and four Collared Grosbeaks being the main highlights, as well as an impressive flock of at least 30 White-winged Grosbeaks.

12 December 6 th A male Spot-winged Rosefinch and female White-collared Blackbird provided the highlights of the first few kilometres which, having started off as mainly pines and rhododendron, changed to a more productive mix of Oak and Rhododendron forest. Rufous-vented Yuhinas, Rufous Sibias and Stripethroated Yuhinas provided the numbers within a large feeding flock, which also held Rusty-flanked Treecreeper, multiple Buff-barred Warblers, Yellow-browed and Black-throated Tits, White-browed Fulvettas, Hoary-throated Barwing and the days star prize of a male Fire-tailed Myzornis. With the traditional area around Ghopte drawing a blank I was resigned to defeat, and had put it on the same list as Snow Partridge; a target species that would have to wait for another trip. Three flocks of at least 20 White throated Laughingthrush were on the edge of the woodland and my first Bonelli s Eagle made a brief overhead appearance, disappearing all too quickly. Arriving into Chipling late afternoon, the woodland above the town produced a couple of flocks of Striated Laughingthrush and my first Nepali Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon and although otherwise quiet, looked to be an area well worth of further exploration. December 7 th After some quiet starts, it was a welcome change to begin the day, enjoying a good variety of woodland and open country species all within just a few hundred metres of the guesthouse, including Long-tailed Minivet, Golden-bush Robin, Buff-barred Warbler, Green and Fire-tailed Sunbird, Olive-backed Pipit, Dark-breasted and Pink-browed Rosefinch. Winding downhill continued to add variety, with my first Ashy Drongos, Grey Bushchat, a group of four Eurasian Crag Martins, and my first Red-billed Blue Magpies since leaving Kathmandu, along with Long-tailed Shrikes, Bluethroated Barbets, Grey Treepies and my best-ever views of Hume s Warbler. A flurry of trip ticks came just before a stop for lunch with an immature Maroon Oriole, a male Small Niltava and a Bronzed Drongo all feeding around an exposed rocky slope below the track, along with a pair of Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, an Orange-bellied Leafbird and a very close Hume s Warbler. Deciding to reach Shivapuri, and spend the night within the park at Borlang Banjan took something of a frustrating turn, when the village simply failed to appear. My original belief, that it was along the main trail through the park, was clearly incorrect, and despite seeing signs I was unable to make sense of where they were leading me, and quite how I was supposed to reach it. Although I would enjoy some close views of Black-throated Parrotbill and the trips first Grey-winged Blackbirds, my afternoon within the park was not as productive as I had originally hoped for, with most of my time spent wondering when I would reach my destination. Once realising that I had missed it, the birding become almost an afterthought and I was thinking more about taking the pressure off my blistered feet and crashing onto a bed, a shame as the area has some real potential for quality birds like Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Rufous-chinned and Grey-sided Laughingthrush. A single Maroonbacked Accentor and another Yellow-throated Martin were also seen whilst, on the outskirts of the forest just above Mulkharka, ten Common Rosefinch provided a long overdue Nepali tick and my 9 th Rosefinch species within the country.

13 Typical hillside scenery beyond Chipling December 8 th Plenty to keep me entertained, whilst waiting for breakfast, with a male Rufous-bellied Niltava appearing on the edge of the bamboo just below the guesthouse and a flock of at least 20 Plumheaded Parakeets both being late trip additions. Buff-barred and Lemon-rumped Warblers were in the surrounding trees, along with Long-tailed Minivet and a flock of 40 Black Bulbul, with Rufous Turtle Doves and a male Hodgson s Redstart on the wires. A pair of Besra also flew past, one of which allowed for some decent perched views, and a pair of Scaly Thrush paused briefly on the track towards Sundarijal, where a Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher was in the trees along the river and Redrumped Swallow was seen overhead. The bus journey back to Thamel (40 rupees) gave me my only Common Kingfisher of the trip, as well as a Grey-backed Shrike and the usual Black Kites. December 9th A return to Nagarjun forest found many of the common species of my first visit, but with several additions including a Kalij Pheasant, sat in a bush just off the edge of the road, a pair of Rufousbellied Niltava, an Orange-bellied Leafbird, and at least three Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babblers. A Pygmy Wren Babbler was singing close enough to the edge of the dense roadside vegetation for it to be observed through a small in the shade, though a singing Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler never came close enough for it to give me any kind of chance. A Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker reappeared on the edge of the forest, where both Great and Blue-throated Barbets gave excellent views feeding on fruiting berries. The trips first Velvet-fronted Nuthatch finally appeared amongst the mobile feeding flocks, which included Yellow-bellied Fantail, five Bronzed Drongos, Blyth s Leaf and Whistlers Warbler, Black-chinned Babbler and White-bellied Epornis. December 10 th Back to Nagarjun, but this time coming off the road and into the park where, after paying the 500 rupees entrance fee, I was told it was mandatory to have a guide. Thankfully I was able to come up with something that persuaded them I didn t need one and was allowed in unaccompanied without hassle. The initial climb upwards was typically much quieter than the outside forest edge but started

14 to produce birds, the closer I got to the summit. A Green Magpie made a brief appearance on the walk up, along with my first White-crested Laughingthrush and several sightings of Speckled Piculet, White-bellied Epornis and Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher. Four White-browed Shrike Babbler and an Ashy-throated Warbler were a sign of my slight rise in evelation, with the same area also holding Greater Yellownape, Scalet Minivet and three Green-tailed Sunbird, whilst the view from the stipa gave good views of several close flying Himalayan swiftlets. Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler and Himalayan Bluetail were found a short distance from the temple, where I came across the old nest of what clearly belonged to a Long-tailed Broadbill. Some very fresh Leopard tracks were another unexpected find, right in the middle of the track, and a pair of Bonelli s Eagles gave me my best-ever views, soaring together in flight. A male Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush was seen on the walk back down, where a familiar high pitched whistle proved, as expected, to be a flock of at least five Longtailed Broadbill; a species I have seen multiple times in Thailand but all the more exciting to see in a new country. Systematic list Lifers are highlighted in green, with figures in brackets representing the number of days (out of the full 26) that each species was recorded 1: Tibetan Snowcock Tetraogallus tebetanus: Two groups above Kjanjn Ghumba (1/26) 2: Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola: Male below Thulo Shyapru (1/26) 3: Himalayan Monal Lophophorus impejanus: Three males Langtang, one near Ghopte (3/26) 4: Kalij Pheasant Lophura Leucomelanos: Frequent throughout (7/26) 5: Yellow-rumped Honeyguide Indicator Xanthonotus: Feeding at Rock Bee nests just past hot springs guesthouse, below Bamboo(2/26) 6: Speckled Piculet Picumnus innominatus: Frequent Nagarjun, two others on trek (4/26) 7: Bay Woodpecker Blythipicus pyrrhotis: Single between Bamboo-Rhimche (1/26) 8: Brown-fronted Woodpecker Dendrocopos auriceps: Good views below Khangjim (1/26) 9: Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos mecei: Single Nagarjun (3/26) 10: Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Dendrocopos cathparius: Single Rhimche (1/26) 11: Darjeeling Woodpecker Dendrocopos darjellensis: Five individuals in areas of pine forest (3/26) 12: Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha: Two sightings Nagarjun (2/26 13: Scaly-bellied Woodpecker Picus squamatus: Single between Ghodatabela and Riverside (1/26) 14: Great Barbet Megalaima virens: Up to five Nagarjun, three singles elsewhere (5/26) 15: Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica: Nagarjun and Chipling (3/26) 16: Golden-throated Barbet Megalaima franklinii: Single near Briddim (1/26) 17: Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Single from bus, Sundarijal (1/26) 18: White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: Single along Trishuli River (1/26) 19: Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameria: Small numbers around Kathmandu (3/26) 20: Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala: Group Malkharka (1/26) 21: Himalayan Swiftlet Collocalia brevirostris: Nagajun and Shyaphbru Besi (3/26) 22: Little Swift Apus affinis: At least 50 over Kathmandu (2/26) 23: Rock Dove Columba livia: Presumed wild birds lower Langtang (4/26) 24: Snow Pigeon Columba leuconota: Common in large flocks Langtang valley (7/26) 25: Common Woodpigeon Columba palumbus: Two Briddim (1/26) 26: Speckled Woodpigeon Columba hodgsonii: Single below Thuman (1/26)

15 27: Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis: Khangjim and Thulo Shyapru (3/26) 28: Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Single on edge of Nagarjun (1/26) 29: Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura: Single above Chipling (1/26) 30: Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: Single along Trishuli river (1/26) 31: Black Kite Milvus migrans: Common Kathmandu (6/26) 32: Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus: Daily around Langtang (4/26) 33: Himalayan Griffon Gyps himalayensis: Frequent (8/26) 34: Cinerous Vulture Aegypius monachus: Two above Briddim (1/26) 35: Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus: Langtang and edge of Shiapuri (2/26) 36: Besra Accipiter virgatus: Single Briddim, two Mulkharka (2/26) 37: Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus: Several sightings (4/26) 38: Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: Frequent throughout trek (8/26) 39: Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos: Frequent in upper Langtang (5/26) 40: Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis: Frequent around urban areas (5/26) 41: Bonelli s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus: Two sightings, including pair over Nagarjun (2/26) 42: Mountain Hawk Eagle Spizaetus nipalensis: Several sightings around Bamboo (4/26) 43: Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Frequent throughout (10/26) 44: Great Cormorant Phalacrocorox carbo: Several along river (2/26) 45: Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Occasional birds in open country (3/26) 46: Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii: Occasinal birds around Kathmandu (2/26 47: Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae: Group 5+ Nagarjun (1/26) 48: Orange-bellied Leafbird: Nagarjun, Khangjim and near Chipling (3/26) 49: Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: Frequent in open country (5/26) 50: Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus: Nagarjun and Mulkharka (4/26) 51: Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius: Three below Briddim (1/26) 52: Yellow-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa flavirostris: Common in higher level forest (12/26) 53: Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha: Common in groups around Nagarjun (4/26 54: Common Green Magpie Cissa chinensis: Single Nagarjun (1/26) 55: Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda: Two Nagarjun (2/26) 56: Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae: Nagarjun, Chipling and Briddim (6/26) 57: Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes: Frequent in pine forests (8/26) 58: Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax: Common in large flocks, upper Langtang (5/26) 59: Yellow-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus: Common in large flocks upper Langtang (4/26) 60: House Crow Corvus splendens: Common around Kathmandu (5/26) 61: Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Common during trek (16/26) 62: Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii: Single between chipling and Chisopani(1/26) 63: Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus: Chipling and Mulkharka (3/26) 64: Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: Nagarjun (3/26) 65: Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha: Occasional birds throughout (6/26) 66: White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis: Single Rhimche (2/26) 67: Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus: Odd birds seen in open country (3/26) 68: Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucopaeus: Several sightings Chipling-Shivapuri (1/26) 69: Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus: Single, several Nagarjun (2/26) 70: Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus: Surprise single below Thulo Shyapru (1/26)

16 71: White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus: Single Kjanjn Ghumba (1/26) 72: Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii: Frequently encountered along rivers (6/26) 73: Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola refiventris: Several sightings (4/26) 74: Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus: Frequent throughout (16/26) 75: Plain-backed Thrush Zoothera mollissima: Several close views of multiple birds (7/26) 76: Scaly Thrush Zoothera dauma: Two below Mulkharka (1/26) 77: Long-billed Thrush Zoothera monticola: Single near Bamboo (1/26) 78: White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocictus: At least four Nagathali (2/26) 79: Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul: Three Shivapuri (1/26) 80: Black-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis: Both Red and Black-throated Nagathali (3/26) 81: Dusky Thrush Turdus naumanni: Single Nagathali (1/26) 82: Slaty-backed Flycatcher Ficedula hodgsonii: Single below Briddim (1/26) 83: Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata: Three Langtang trek, several Nagarjun (5/26) 84: Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis: Common Nagarjun (3/26) 85: Small Niltava Nilta macgrigoriae: Single between Chipling and Chisopani (/26) 86: Rufous-bellied Niltava Niltava sundara: Two Nagarjun, single Mulkharka (2/26) 87: Himalayan Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus: Frequent throughout (10/26) 88: Golden Bush Robin Tarsiger chrysaeus: Thulo Shyapru and Chipling (3/26) 89: White-browed Bush Robin Tarsiger indicus: Including three Ghopte (5/26) 90: Oriental Magpie Robin Copsychus saularis: Several around Kathmandu (3/26) 91: Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus coeruleocephalus: Frequent in high open country (8/26) 92: Hodgson s Redstart Phoenicurus hodgsoni: Frequent throughout (5/26) 93: White-throated Redstart Phoenicurus schisticeps: Found Kjanjn Ghumba and Gosikunda (2/26) 94: Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis: Common around hillside terraces (18/26) 95: White-capped Water Redstart Chaimarrornis leucocephalus: Common along mountain rivers (6/26) 96: Plumbeous Water Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus: Common along mountain rivers (7/26) 97: Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri: Several between Shyaphbru Besi and Rhimche (4/26) 98: Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculatus: Several sightings between Bamboo and Langtang (4/26) 99: Grandala Grandala coelicolor: c.300 above Kjanjn Ghumba, others Gosikunda (3/26) 100: Stenejer s Stonechat Saxicola torquata: Frequent in open country (6/26) 101: Pied Bushchat Soxicola caprata: From bus to Shyaphbru Besi (1/26) 102: Grey Bushchat Soxicola ferrea: Chipling and Briddim (2/26) 103: Common Myna Acridotheris tristis: Small numbers around Kathmandu (4/26) 104: Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea: Common around Nagarjun (3/26) 105: White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis: Common lower Langtang Valley (7/26) 106: Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Only seen Nagarjun (1/26) 107: Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria: Several upper Langtang (6/26) 108: Hodgson s Treecreeper Certhia Several sightings around Nagathali (5/26) 109: Rusty-flanked Treecreeper Certhia nipalensis: Frequent past Lama Hotel (5/26) 110: Rufous-vented Tit Parus ribidiventris: Common in pine forest (10/26) 111: Coal Tit Parus ater: Common in pine forest (7/26) 112: Grey-crested Tit Parus dichrous: Frequent in pine forest (6/26) 113: Great Tit Parus major: Nagarjun and Mulkharka (2/26) 114: Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus: Common in lower elevation forest (11/26) 115: Black-lored Tit Parus xanthogenys: Common in lower level forest, particularly Nagarjun (9/26)

17 116: Yellow-browed Tit Sylviparus modestus: Frequent in small numbers (6/26 117: Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus: Frequent in medium sized flocks (12/26) 118: Rufous-fronted Tit Aegithalos iouschistos: Several flocks encountered (4/26) 119: Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes: Frequent beyond Bamboo (12/26) 120: Eurasian Crag Martin Hirundo rupestris: Four below Chipling (1/26) 121: Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Several around Kathmandu (2/26) 122: Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Kathmandu and journey to Shyaphbru Besi (2/26) 123: Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus: Single above Nagarjun (1/26 124: Nepal House Martin Delichon urbica: 100+ Shyaphbru Besi, small numbers elsewhere (4/26) 125: Himalayan Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys: Common around terraced hillside scrub (12/26) 126: Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer: Common Nagarjun edge (4/26) 128: Striated Prinia Prinia criniger: Frequent in lower level terraces and rank vegetation (5/26) 129: Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus: Frequent throughout (6/26) 130: Chestnut-headed Tesia Tesia castaneocoronata: Frequent between Bamboo (3/26) 131: Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius: Common around Kathmandu (4/26) 132: Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler Cettia fortipes: At least one singing Nagarjun (1/26) 133: Aberrant Bush Warbler Cettia flavolivacea: Common in hillside vegetation (9/26) 134: Hume s Bush Warbler Cettia acanthizoides: Single near Ghopte (1/26) 135: Grey-sided Bush Warbler Cettia brunnifrons: Briddim and Thuman (2/26) 136: Tickell s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis: Single Thuman (1/26) 137: Blyth s Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides: Several Nagarjun (3/26) 138: Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher: Commonest between (8/26) 139: Ashy-throated Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis: Fairly common throughout (15/26) 140: Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus: Shyaphbru Besi -Bamboo and Nagarjun (6/26) 141: Hume s Warbler Phylloscopus humei: Shyaphbru Besi and Nagarjun (3/26) 142: Whistler s Warbler Seicercus whistleri: Frequent Shyaphbru Besi -Bamboo and Nagarjun (5/26) 143: Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos: Common throughout (15/26) 144: Chestnut-crowned Warbler Seicercus castaniceps: Single near Bamboo (1/26) 145: Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps: Several small groups lower Langtang valley (3/26) 146: Goldcrest Regulus regulus: Singles Nagathali and Shin Gumpa (2/26) 147: White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis: Frequent flocks throughout (6/26) 148: White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus: Single group Nagarjun (1/26) 149: Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus: Frequent groups, lower Langtang valley (6/26) 150: Spotted Laughingthrush Garrulax ocellatus: Briddim and Nagathali (4/26) 151: Streaked Laughingthrush Gallulax lineatus: Common in higher level scrub (14/26) 152: Scaly Laughingthrush Gallulax subunicolor: Two Rhimche (1/26) 153: Variegated Laughingthrush Garrulax variegatus: Common in higher level scrub (12/26) 154: Black-faced Laughingthrush Garrulax affinis: Common in upper forest and scrub (11/26) 155: Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush Garrulax erythrocephalus: Frequent throughout trek (11/26) 156: Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys: Thuman and Nagarjun (2/26) 157: Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis: Briddim and Thulo Shyapru (2/26) 158: Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler Pnoepyga albiventer: Single riverside, others heard (2/26) 159: Pygmy Wren Babbler Pnoepyga pusilla: Single Nagarjun (1/26) 160: Black-chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhops: Frequent in lower deciduous forest (8/26) 161: Grey-throated Babbler Stachyris nigriceps: Pair Nagarjun (1/26)

18 162: White-browed Shrike Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis: Nagarjun, Riverside and Briddim (4/26) 163: Green Shrike Babbler Pteruthius xanthochlorus: Upper Langtang and Thulo Shyapru (4/26) 164: Hoary-throated Barwing Actinodura nipalensis: Rhimche and Chisopani (3/26) 165: Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula: Frequent throughout (6/26) 166: White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus: Frequent in lower forests (6/26) 167: Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis: Frequent in lower Langtang (8/26) 168: Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis: Frequently common (10/26) 169: Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis: Common lower Langtang valley (7/26) 170: White-bellied Epornis: Frequent Nagarjun (3/26) 171: Fire-tailed Myzornis Myzornis pyrrhoura: Single above Chisopani (1/26) 172: Rufous Sibia Heterophasia annectans: Common in deciduous woodland (13/26) 173: Great Parrotbill Conostoma oemodium: Single Ghopte (1/26) 174: Black-throated Parrotbill Paradoxornis nipalensis: Groups Rhimche and Shivapuri (2/26) 175: Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus: Occasional birds throughout (4/26) 176: Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis: Occasional birds (4/26) 177: Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda: Common in mixed feeding groups (7/26) 178: House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Common Kathmandu (3/26) 179: Tree Sparrow Passer montanus: Several in lower villages Langtang (4/26) 180: White Wagtail Motacilla alba: Several Kathmandu (2/26) 181: Grey Wagtail Moticilla cinerea: Kathmandu and Langtang (2/26) 182: Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni: Frequent during trek (5/26) 183: Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris: Several very obliging birds Gosainkunda (2/26) 184: Altai Accentor Prunella himalayana: Common upper Langtang and Gosainkunda (5/26) 185: Robin Accentor Prunella rubeculoides: Three Kjangjin Gumpa (1/26) 186: Rufous-breasted Accentor Prunella strophiata: Common around terraced hillsides (13/26) 187: Maroon-backed Accentor Prunella immaculata: Multiple birds single Shivapuri (5/26) 188: Plain Mountain Finch Leucosticte nemoricola: Frequent groups on terraced hillsides (8/26) 189: White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata: Pair with young Nagarjun (1/26) 190: Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides: Briddim and Thuman (3/26) 191: Red Crossbill Loxia curvirostra: Five riverside (1/26) 192: Dark-breasted Rosefinch Carpodacus nipalensis: Several Chipling and Shivapuri (3/26) 193: Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus: Ten Malkarkha (1/26) 194: Beautiful Rosefinch Carpodacus pulcherrimus: Common upper Langtang (8/26) 195: Pink-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus rodochrous: Occasional birds (5/26) 196: Spot-winged Rosefinch Carpodacus rodopeplus: Several Nagathali (6/26) 197: White-browed Rosefinch Carpodacus thura: Several around Ghopte (4/26) 198: Red-fronted Rosefinch Carpodacus puniceus: Excellent views Gosainkunda (2/26) 199: Red-headed Bulfinch Pyrrhula erythrocephala: Frequent in Rhododendron forest (6/26) 200: Collared Grosbeak Mycerobas affinis: Nagathali and Ghopte (2/26) 201: White-winged Grosbeak Mycerobas carnipes: Common in pine and juniper forest (7/26) 202: Rock Bunting Emberiza cia: Occasional birds (4/26)

19 This was my 2 nd trip to Nepal, following on from six weeks which I spent, largely exploring the Annapurna region, over the winter of 2014/2015. I deliberately made a point of packing light, and was able to do the whole thing by myself, enjoying amazing scenery, food and local hospitality. By keeping track of my spending, my total outgoings for the three weeks trekking came in at around 310 which broke down to just under 2000 rupees a day; a grand sum of almost 15. The trails themselves were pretty easy going and anyone in a reasonable state of physical fitness should be able to follow the same itinerary without a problem. For anyone thinking of Deli-style stomach problems, I never experienced any ill effects of food (I believe the same is true for the clear majority of trekkers) and, by steadying my ascent, never experienced any symptoms of altitude sickness. Trail conditions were pretty easy going, with little in the way of steep ascents, and if repeating the same route, I would make a point of taking lightweight, breathable footwear, with a decent underfoot grip, rather than walking boots. Temperatures would plummet at night, but during the day I would normally find myself walking in lightweight trousers and a t-shirt. Trekking in Nepal is amazingly cheap, and if trying to do things on a budget, you should be able to get by on about 100 per week. The following is a breakdown of costs, based on my own experiences. Permits and entrance fees Visa: Easy, as this can be bought on arrival at the airport, and paid for with US dollars. The standard 30 day tourist visit is $20. TIMS permit: A mandatory permit that can be easily acquired from the tourist office in Kathmandu '07.8"N 85 19'00.4"E for 2000 rupees (free individual trekker) Just bring a couple of passport photos, and they will give you the appropriate form for your chosen trekking area. Langtang National Park entrance fee: A one of payment, which can be paid in cash at the park entrance and costs 3390 rupees (standard 3000 rupees plus 13% VAT) Food and Lodging Your only real expenditure whilst trekking, barring any gifts bought along the way, and so very easy to manage. Food in the upper stretches of the valley is more expensive than lower down, due to the fact that everything needs to be carried up by porters, but even taking this into account, you should, if sticking to a budget, be able to manage an average of 2000 rupees per day. Food: Perhaps more varied than one might expect with each guesthouse having a variety of pasta, noodle, rice and potato dishes, as well as the staple Nepali Dhal Bhat. Main meals typically cost rupees, with simple noodle soups being about 300 or less rupees should be enough to cover a day s food, providing you are able to resist the temptations of chocolate and beer, the latter of which can go for up to 800 rupees a bottle towards the end of the valley. Porridge, eggs and Tibetan bread are widely available as breakfast options and I would often order boiled potatoes, to be cooked during breakfast and taken with me as a snack to be eaten during the day. Fresh Yak cheese (similar to goats cheese) makes for a cool and refreshing snack, which I was able to buy from a local villagers yak hut for 400 rupees (1 kilo) Black tea is available everywhere for a standard rupees per cup, with milk tea and lemon tea normally about 100 rupees. As it is made using yak milk, it has a much richer, creamier taste and nearly always comes with sugar already in it.

20 Dhal Bhat, the staple diet of Nepali people, consisting of rice, curried potato, green vegetable, a small helping of pickle, and the lentil dhal (the latter of which normally varies slightly between each guesthouse) You will not go hungry if you order it for your main meal, as you will be offered seconds (and even thirds) of everything on the plate! In Kjangjin Gumpa, Guesthouses were charging around 700 rupees, though in Chipling and Mulkarka it dropped right down to 300. Lodging: Simple, but it gets the job done. Rooms are standard box style, normally with two single beds, each with pillows and blankets, though I would still recommend bringing a sleeping bag. Rooms were typically a night though, as I was on my own, I would often be charged half price for a 400 rupee room. When in Langtang and Kjangjin Gumpa I was charged only for food, and was also able to use their hot (and I do mean properly hot) solar powered showers free of charge. Like with the Annapurna region, lodges were easy to find with plenty of options, and the distances between them rarely being more than a couple of miles. There was no need to book ahead for a room and there was a fire in most of the lodge dining areas, so easy to warm yourself up. Please feel free to me david_roche@hotail.co.uk if you have any additional queries