EMPEROR PENGUINS OF ANTARCTICA TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 1 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

2 EMPEROR PENGUINS OF ANTARCTICA 18 NOVEMBER 3 DECEMBER 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADER: PETE MORRIS As we stood on deck in the evening sun, surrounded by fast-ice, sipping wine and enjoying the barbecue, we shall never forget the moment that a four foot tall penguin waddled on to the ice, instantly stopping the party! It was of course our first Emperor Penguin, the true symbol of the Antarctic, and the main reason for our participation in this voyage! It was the first time that we had taken a group on a short tour to Antarctica, and the first time that we had specifically selected a trip that attempted to see the lord of the ice. Thanks to good ice conditions, calm sea conditions, a great group and a fun and interesting mix of fellow passengers, crew and staff, it turned out to be an incredible success. During a couple of days in Tierra del Fuego and the ten days aboard the Aleksey Maryshev, we managed a total of 86 species of birds and eleven species of mammals. On dry land, highlights included some incredible encounters with the superb Magellanic Woodpecker, the diminutive Magellanic Tapaculo and the scarce Yellow-bridled Finch. Once on the ocean, the highlight was simply to be surrounded by a superb array of fantastic seabirds, with favourites including Light-mantled and Wandering Albatrosses and Snow and Antarctic Petrels. Around the Antarctic Peninsula and the South Shetlands, the scenery and the icebergs took over with scenes so incredible, they are impossible to describe or even photograph! Here we were, of course, captivated by the antics of the penguins. The Emperor Penguins were the absolute highlight, but we also marvelled at the antics of the Adelies, Gentoos and Chinstraps. Add to this the seals, the whales, the zodiac cruises, the coffee-tea girls and everything else and it truly was a holiday of a lifetime! We assembled in the evening in Ushuaia after, for most of us at least, a long, long journey from London, via Madrid and Buenos Aires. Although still light, we were tired, and after our first dinner together, tried to get some rest. The following day saw a bright dawn the sun was shining, and there was a distinct feeling of spring in the air. We made our way into Tierra del Fuego National Park, and enjoyed a wonderful day exploring the Nothofagus beech forests, various pools, and the shores of the Beagle Channel. We had barely reached the park when a Chilean Hawk was spotted from the bus, surely a good omen. We watched it in the scope and then concentrated on the forest where, before too long, we had found an amazing pair of Magellanic Woodpeckers which showed at length. Nearby, a Magellanic Tapaculo teased us before showing very well indeed, and other goodies included the delightful Thorn-tailed Rayadito and the robust White-throated Treerunner. A shaggy 2 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

3 Argentine Red Fox also paid us a visit. At various pools we admired Black-faced Ibises, Upland and Ashy-headed Geese, and a variety of ducks, whilst our first stop at the shore yielded our first (albeit distant) Black-browed Albatrosses, Magellanic Penguin and Imperial and Rock Shags, and a confiding pair of Dark-bellied Cinclodes. At lunch we were entertained by a stately pair of Great Grebes, and after lunch continued our success, adding Kelp Geese, both Flying and Flightless Steamer-Ducks, Magellanic and Blackish Oystercatchers and a brilliant flock of Austral Parakeets. Overhead we admired several impressive Andean Condors, a couple of White-throated Caracaras and a Blackchested Buzzard-Eagle, whilst just before we left, a smart Fire-eyed Diucon and an Austral Blackbird called in to see us! It had been a great day, the weather had held, and we headed back to our comfortable hotel pretty chuffed, pausing to admire Dolphin Gulls and Long-tailed Meadowlarks as we went. A quick look at the harbour the following morning revealed a flock of Red Shoveler and some tame South American Terns, and it was then time for some hard graft! A good scramble around the Martial Glacier failed to produce the hoped-for seedsnipe, but that was not a great surprise. We gave it a good crack, though at times the fierce gusts of wind made it difficult, and at least two hats disappeared at 50mph, one of which was retrieved! It was not all in vain, as we achieved good views of both Dark-faced and Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrants and, best of all, some lovely Yellow-bridled Finches. We returned to Ushuaia for a rather large lunch (made all the more interesting by the collapse of a huge aerial just outside which had crashed on to a car breaking the rear windscreen!), and then made our way to the pier with excitement mounting. We found our modest but robust vessel, the Aleksey Maryshev, and at around 4pm we boarded and settled into what was to be our home for the next ten days. We set sail spot on time, and after introductions to the staff and crew, the obligatory safety lecture (this was more of a stand-up comedy performance with Sergey!) and the lifeboat drill, we settled on deck and watched the evening go by on the Beagle Channel. Magellanic Diving-Petrels performed well, a few Magellanic Penguins were seen, and Black-browed Albatrosses and Southern Giant-Petrels appeared inquisitively around the boat. We awoke the following morning in the Drake Passage. Conditions had got a little bumpy overnight, but nothing too serious, and conditions were still relatively calm. And it was to remain that way for our two day crossing of the Drake Passage, with nothing more than a gentle swell, light winds and frequent sunshine. With Neptune clearly smiling on us, we were able to enjoy continual great views of a variety of seabirds for the two days at sea. Whether you ve experienced it before or not, being at sea, surrounded by magnificent albatrosses, is really a privilege! Watching their awesome and effortless flight can have one transfixed for days. During the crossing we were joined by numerous Wandering, Southern Royal and Black-browed Albatrosses as well as smaller numbers of attractive Grey-headed and graceful Light-mantled Albatrosses and a single Northern Royal Albatross. Both Northern and Southern Giant-Petrels were frequent visitors and Cape Petrels were constant companions and were joined by small numbers of White-chinned Petrels, and, particularly later in the voyage, by delicate Southern Fulmars. Gorgeous Blue Petrels zipped back and forth, the prions changed from Slender-billed to Antarctic as we crossed the convergence, and the hordes of Wilson s Storm-Petrels were joined by a few Black-bellied Storm-Petrels as we got into colder water. Groups of Rockhopper Penguins at the surface were a surprise, we enjoyed a small pod of Hourglass Dolphins, and we even had a Snowy Sheathbill land on board for a rest before continuing its journey south! By the evening of day two, the eastern tip of King George Island, in the South Shetlands was spotted, though we were to continue steaming south. 3 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

4 The following morning we enjoyed our first taste of the true Antarctic. We were now in the Weddell Sea, and although the weather was poor, huge tabular icebergs surrounded us, the deep blue clefts yielding squeals of joy. A few Adelie Penguins were on board some of the bergs, giving some sense of scale. Looking at some of them was not far off looking at floating white cliffs of Dover! It was now time for our first turn of the tag, time to re-acquaint ourselves with Terra Firma and it was with great excitement that we boarded the zodiacs for the first time, for our visit to Paulet Island. Paulet Island is home to a huge colony of 100,000 or more breeding pairs of Adelie Penguins, and many were on the beach to greet us. These adorable penguins were densely packed and were busy staining much of the grey volcanic island pink with their krill-dyed droppings, and needless to say the assault on our olfactory senses was overwhelming! Indeed, disturbingly, it even seemed like one could taste it! As the weather improved and the sun came out, we enjoyed several hours watching their antics: calling, displaying, egg-turning, eating ice, swimming, preening, waddling, tobogganing, and just doing what penguins do! It was magic, and whilst watching them we also enjoyed a lonely Gentoo Penguin, several Brown Skuas, some well-camouflaged Weddell Seals (and for some a Leopard Seal), and a large colony of more than 300 pairs of Antarctic Shags. The nest of one pair even had the head of a long dead bird as part of its construction there s little else to build nests with here! We finished up with a walk over the island, and as we walked down the snowfield admiring the view, perky Adelies tobogganed alongside us! We made our way back to the Aleksey Maryshev in time for lunch, turned our tags (come in number three!!), and sailed further south into the Weddell. The afternoon was a visual feast of ice sculptures, from tiny bergy-bits to huge tabular bergs that some passengers thought had names! Many Adelie Penguins were on the bergs, and a few Snow Petrels were seen flying around them. Our destination was Snow Hill Island, and by the late afternoon, we were parked in the fast ice between James Ross Island and Snow Hill Island. We were still a good few miles from the Emperor rookery, but the hope was that we would find them on the ice here. Our initial scans were fruitless, just Adelies, and soon our attention was diverted by dinner. No ordinary dinner though, for here at 64 o 17 south, surrounded by ice and with a clear blue sky, we were enjoying a fine barbecue. As the wine slipped down and the girls began dancing, the party was beginning to take shape when the Emperor popped up! A magic moment and scope views for all before it plopped back in, only to resurface right by the boat. It was clearly inquisitive, and allowed fantastic views for all as it waddled past us and stood with a group of Adelies in the Antarctic twilight. It was still visible from the bar port hole at 0130 the following morning (according to those present)! Early the next morning it had gone, but from the glassy calm sea appeared another. That one stayed briefly by the ship before going back into the ocean long before most had surfaced for breakfast. The wind began to pick up from the northwest, but after breakfast we cruised a short distance along the ice and then took to the zodiacs. We cruised along the ice-edge for a while and then jumped up onto the fast-ice, hauled the zodiacs up with us, and went for a walk across the ice. This was an experience in itself as we posed for photos, clambered on icebergs that were set in the ice and negotiated our way across small sections of ice-rink-like conditions! A Crabeater Seal provided a welcome diversion, and then, just before we were thinking of heading back, some Emperors were spotted, a kilometre or so away. We made our way towards them, and they did the same! After a while, we stopped and waited. A couple of cute Adelies came and stood right in front of us, doing their level best to pose and distract us, but the looming figures behind them could not be ignored. Every now and then they d stop, almost as if to check we were still there, and then continue tobogganing straight towards us. It was one of those magic moments as we all stood open-mouthed, and before we knew it, they were there, just feet away, giving us the once-over! Thousands of images were fired off as they waddled around us, tobogganed past us and even displayed for us. We were only with them for 15 or 20 minutes, but this was surely one of the most memorable 15 minutes of 4 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

5 our lives! We headed back to the zodiacs on cloud nine. Even the fact that the northwesterly had now boxed us in with icebergs didn t seem to matter, and despite one failed engine, we managed to escape back to the Aleksey Maryshev. That afternoon, the wind really blew, getting to gale-force, and as a result, our proposed landing was cancelled. This was no great disaster as we still got to see Devil Island and enjoyed a ship cruise along the northern coast of Vega Island, admiring the icebergs and mountains around us. The following morning, the early risers saw the first of our Antarctic Petrels before we arrived at Esperanza, an Argentinian research base on the tip of the peninsula. For the first and only time, we set foot on the continent proper, at the site where the first people to be born on Antarctica were born. We enjoyed a tour of the base, admired Olga s high-heeled sparkly boots (not standard Antarctic kit) and enjoyed the hospitality of our Argentinian hosts. The weather was poor with constant light rain, so there was a little time for shopping and relaxing. We, of course, saw the Adelies and Gentoos and even managed a couple more Antarctic Petrels for some, but in the strengthening wind we made a choppy return to the ship. The wind continued to strengthen, becoming gale force once again, so it was no surprise that the afternoon landing was cancelled. This was actually no bad thing, as the extra time sailing allowed us to continue further south down the west side of the continent. We awoke in the fantastically scenic Gerlache Straits, surrounded by yet more glaciers, icebergs and snow-capped mountains. The weather was changeable, some sun and the odd snow-shower and some fantastic ethereal light. You almost had to pinch yourself to prove you were really there! And then we entered the Neumayer Channel, admiring Gentoos and a Chinstrap Penguin on a blue Fox s Glacier Mint iceberg at the entrance. The scenery just got more and more dramatic until we arrived at Port Lockroy, the former British Antarctic Survey base that has now been restored as a museum. We were joined on board by the lucky Rick (he s oversummering in the Antarctic with three ladies!) who explained about the base before letting us loose on shore. Once there we spent much of the time watching the antics of the Gentoo Penguins, witnessing many of their daily activities, including some rather blatant stone stealing (they obviously don t have the expression about not doing certain things in one s own backyard!). Despite moans from Rick about the weather, the sun came out to greet us, and we had a truly wonderful morning enjoying the area. As we headed back north, the wind again picked up, and our landing on Cuverville was looking in doubt for a while. However, our unflappable captain found us a safe anchor point, and soon we were enjoying a wonderful zodiac cruise through an amazing jungle of twisted blue icebergs! We eventually arrived at the beach, and spent the next hour or two admiring more Gentoos along an icestudded shoreline with an amazing backdrop! Brown and South Polar Skuas were watched and compared, and we picked our way back through the bergs, with Snow Petrels overhead, to the sanctuary of the ship. Overnight we made our way up to the South Shetlands, and by breakfast we were positioned in the sheltered waters off Half Moon Island, just off Livingstone Island (I presume hey Pete!). Once again the weather did us proud, and we had yet another fantastic landing, this time admiring the antics of Chinstrap Penguins at their colony. Again the scenery was incredible and as well as the penguins, we enjoyed breeding Antarctic Terns, some sleepy Southern Elephant Seals and a Weddell Seal taking a snooze on the ice! We then made the short run south to Deception Island. Again the wind was blowing, and as we passed Bailey Head, we could just about make out the huge Chinstrap colony in the distance, whilst many penguins porpoised around the boat. We sailed in through the famous Neptune s Bellows, still on the lookout for Antarctic Petrels for those that were still without. Clouds of Cape Petrels appeared, but as we arrived at Whaler s Bay in the flooded caldera of Deception Island, the wind was once again putting our landing in jeopardy. Amazingly, while we were waiting, a smart 5 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

6 Antarctic Petrel cruised around the ship, and in the meantime the tireless crew managed to anchor the ship on the gravelly sea bed, and soon we were ashore again. Steam rose from the volcanically heated beach and we went ashore to look around the remains of the old whaling activities and to enjoy the view and the Cape Petrels at Neptune s Window. It was a pleasant last landing, if not the most spectacular, though it was great for the skua aficionados amongst us. It was then time to set sail and face the Drake again! The weather forecast was once again good, and the fact that we were joined by two Antarctic Petrels was surely a good omen. Indeed, they stayed with us until the perfect sunset that drew our Antarctic adventure to its conclusion. The return crossing of the drake was again relatively calm, though slightly less birdy than on the way down. This gave us the opportunity to catch up with more of the informative lectures and learn some incredible tales of endurance! Some Humpback Whales and a couple of Southern Bottle-nosed Whales were much appreciated, a Soft-plumaged Petrel flashed by for some, and we were able to enjoy plenty more albatrosses. As we neared the Beagle Channel, Sooty Shearwaters became common, and we saw good numbers of both Common and Magellanic Diving-Petrels and Rockhopper and Magellanic Penguins. Arctic Tern and Ruddy Turnstone (the latter 40 miles into the Drake!) were additions to the list, and we enjoyed the great scenery and skyscapes as we re-entered the Beagle Channel. Our last night get-together was most enjoyable as we re-lived the trip together over a glass or two of bubbly and wiled away the night. Disembarking in the sun on Ushuaia Pier, there was a tinge of sadness leaving the vessel that we had come to think of as home, but an overwhelming sense of achievement, for Antarctica had been everything we had hoped it would be and more! Our visit to Lago Escondido was always going to be something of an anti-climax, but still produced some wonderful scenery and another amazing male Magellanic Woodpecker. It s sad to wind up such a fantastic tour with a visit to the rubbish tip, but that s exactly what we did, enjoying great views of White-throated and Southern Crested-Caracaras, Dolphin Gulls and Chilean Skuas, and we also scoped some Chiloe Wigeons on the beach nearby. A last lunch together and then it was time to head for the airport, with plenty of time to reflect on our epic journey on the long flights home! 6 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

7 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Conservation threat categories and information are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International s magnificent book on the sad status of the rarest 10% of the world s avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: ANATIDAE Upland Goose Chloephaga picta: The nominate race was fairly common in the Ushuaia area and we gained many excellent views in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Many of them were tame and even seemed unconcerned by the presence of a fox! Members of this genus are sometimes called sheldgeese. Kelp Goose Chloephaga hybrida: We enjoyed some great views of a pair in Tierra del Fuego National Park and saw a few others around Ushuaia. This attractive, strongly sexually dimorphic, coastal bird, is represented here by the nominate subspecies. Ashy-headed Goose Chloephaga poliocephala: We enjoyed several great views of about six of this very attractive goose in Tierra del Fuego National Park and saw a couple more at the end of the tour. Flying Steamer-Duck Tachyeres patachonicus: Once we had got our eye in, this and the following species were relatively easy to separate. We saw several at various spots in the Ushuaia area. Fuegian Steamer-Duck (Flightless S-D) Tachyeres pteneres: These large, clumsy-looking flightless ducks were not difficult to see on the shores of the Beagle Channel around Ushuaia. The deep-based orange bill and plain head gives them an almost domestic goose look! Crested Duck Lophonetta specularioides: Plenty were seen well in the Ushuaia area, though not often looking particularly crested! The purple speculum is attractive when visible. Chiloe Wigeon (Southern W) Anas sibilatrix: Three of these attractive ducks were found in Tierra del Fuego National Park, with a few more near to Ushuaia on our last day. Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris: At least six were found on a small pool in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Yellow-billed Pintail Anas spinicauda: Somehow, I had omitted this species from the checklist, and we forgot to write it in! We saw at least a couple of pairs in Tierra del Fuego National Park, the second of which was on the same small pool as the Speckled Teals. The South American mainland birds are often lumped in South Georgia Pintail A. georgica, which is endemic to South Georgia, with the combined form being known as Yellow-billed Pintail. Red Shoveler Anas platalea: A reasonable-sized group of was present in Ushuaia harbour, much to Roy s delight! PODICIPEDIDAE Great Grebe Podiceps major: A few seen around Ushuaia, the best of which were the breeding birds in Tierra del Fuego National Park where we had lunch. This is the largest grebe to be found in South America. SPHENISCIDAE Emperor Penguin Aptenodytes forsteri: Well what can one say! Parked in fast ice in the Weddell Sea, just north of Snow Hill Island, our anxiety at the lack of big boys on the ice had, to some degree, been suppressed by the free booze at the barbecue that we were enjoying! But 7 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

8 when Ian spotted one on the ice, all hell broke loose, and the focus of the party soon changed (the desserts were well and truly missed by most of us!). Good scope views followed until it plunged back off the ice into the ocean, only to reappear right next to the boat! It was definitely inquisitive, and was still present until the small hours, accompanied by a small group of Adelies in the soft twilight! It was a truly brilliant evening. Another was present briefly early the following morning, and then, as we walked on the fast ice nearby, Pete C spotted another pair in the distance, and these came tobogganing across the ice all the way to us, stopping a few metres in front of us to inspect us! They then put on a truly magnificent display for us, even calling and bowing their heads. Birding doesn t get much more exciting, and a bird of the trip vote was clearly pointless as this one was closer to the bird of a lifetime! The Emperor is the tallest and heaviest of all living penguin species. The male and female are similar in plumage and size, reaching 122 cm (48 in) in height and weighing anywhere from kg (48 82 lb). Fish form the bulk of its diet, which can include crustaceans, such as krill, and cephalopods, such as squid. When foraging, they can remain submerged for up to 18 minutes, diving to a depth of 535 m (1,755 ft)! It has several adaptations to facilitate this, including an unusually structured haemoglobin to allow it to function at low oxygen levels, solid bones to reduce barotrauma, and the ability to reduce its metabolism and shut down non-essential organ functions. It is the only penguin species that breeds during the Antarctic winter, it treks km (31 75 miles) over the ice to breeding colonies which may include thousands of individuals. The female lays a single egg, which is incubated by the male throughout the Antarctic winter while the female returns to the sea to forage. Once the chick hatches in the early spring, the parents take turns foraging at sea and caring for their chick in the colony. Their lifespan is typically 20 years in the wild, although observations suggest that some individuals may live to 50 years of age. It has a circumpolar distribution in the Antarctic, almost exclusively between the 66 and 77 south latitudes. It almost always breeds on stable pack ice near the coast and up to 18 km (11 miles) offshore. Breeding colonies are usually located in areas where ice cliffs and icebergs shelter them from the wind. The total population is estimated at around 400, ,000 individuals, which are distributed among at least 40 independent colonies. Around 80,000 pairs breed in the Ross Sea sector. Major breeding colonies are located at Cape Washington (20,000 25,000 pairs), Coulman Island in Victoria Land (around 22,000 pairs), Halley Bay, Coats Land (14,300 31,400 pairs), and Atka Bay in Queen Maud Land (16,000 pairs). The Snow Hill Island Emperor Rookery was only confirmed in 2004, and is the furthest north colony known at south, and the most accessible. About 4,000 pairs breed there, but in most years, an icebreaker and a helicopter are required to get to them! Adelie Penguin Pygoscelis adeliae: This was the common penguin on icebergs around the peninsula, providing some degree of scale to the enormous and impressive chunks of ice. The visit to the huge colony of this clownish penguin (thought to number over 100,000 pairs) on Paulet Island was surely one of the major highlights of the trip, and we went on to see many more at Esperanza and other sites. The evidence that this species feeds mainly on krill was well displayed by a smelly pink coating over the nesting areas and the ice floes that they tended to roost on. This truly Antarctic penguin has a world population of up to 2,610,000 pairs but numbers seem to be decreasing as the species retreats southwards in the face of global warming. This species was named after Adélie Dumont d Urville, wife of French explorer Admiral Vicomte Dumont d Urville who discovered Antarctica s Adélie coast in Gentoo Penguin Pygoscelis papua: This large brush-tailed penguin was first seen in the Weddell Sea, and then we found a lost-looking single on the beach at Paulet Island. A small breeding colony was seen at Esperanza and then we had great fun watching them at their colonies 8 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

9 at Port Lockroy and Cuverville Island along the Antarctica Peninsula. At the former location, plenty of stone theft was going on, while at the latter, we watched them emerging from the icy shoreline with a back drop of incredible blue icebergs! We also saw a few in the South Shetlands. The species is classified as Near-threatened by BirdLife International. Although Antarctic populations seem to be on the increase, sub- Antarctic populations seem to be decreasing. The Falklands population has decreased by some 45% over the past 60 years and on Bird Island in South Georgia by 33%. With the recent warming in climate, this species has extended its range southwards in the Peninsula. World population estimates range from 520,000 individuals to at least 314,000 pairs of which the Falkland Islands hold up to 116,000 pairs and South Georgia up to 120,000 pairs. Colonies in the South Shetlands and Antarctic Peninsula are thought to have increased but overall totals are still unknown although they probably account for about 25% of the total population. The origin of the name Gentoo is a bit of a mystery. It is said that ex-pat Brits used the term gentoo to describe the members of a Hindu sect that wore a white cotton cap. But if this is true, how and when did the name reach the Gentoos of the far Southern Hemisphere? The epithet papua is also erroneous. The subspecies found on the peninsula is ellsworthi. Chinstrap Penguin Pygoscelis antarctica: Although the odd bird was seen at sea and on drifting ice floes, the only actual colony that we visited was at Half Moon Island where around 3,300 pairs are known to breed. We also sailed by the huge colony of 100,000 pairs at Baily Head on Deception Island. The First Mate, Sergey ( check hair ) told us that the roughly translated Russian name for this species means London Bobby (or policeman)!. The crowing displaying birds nesting in the rocky outcrops against a backdrop of the snowclad Livingston Island will never be forgotten. This circumpolar penguin also feeds mainly on krill hence the pink guano and is thought to have a world population of about 7,500,000 pairs. Magellanic Penguin Spheniscus magellanicus: This southernmost representative of its genus was seen during both of our voyages down the Beagle Channel, where we enjoyed some good views of swimming birds. A few were also noted in the Ushuaia area. With a world population of about 1,300,000 pairs (which equates to 4,500,000 10,000,000 individuals), this species is classified as Near-threatened by BirdLife International. The Falklands population of some 100,000+ pairs may have declined by up to 50% over the past thirty years. The main threat appears to be oil pollution but the fisheries may also be taking their toll. Rockhopper Penguin Eudyptes chrysocome: Several were noted at sea in the Drake Passage and near to the mouth of the Beagle Channel, some allowing pretty good views. The birds we saw belong to the nominate race which is distributed through the Falklands, Isla Pinguino and Staten Islands of Argentina and islands off southern Chile. DIOMEDEIDAE Southern Royal Albatross Diomedea [epomophora] epomophora: The first of the great albatrosses that we saw and certainly by far the most common of the two Royal Albatrosses. Seen well on many occasions, mostly north of the convergence in the Drake Passage, with many immatures, a few adults, and a single well-marked juvenile being seen (the bird with the streaked and scaled back that I initially thought may be a Northern Royal). With a world population of about 9,000 pairs, all of which breed on Campbell and Enderby Islands in the Auckland group of islands of New Zealand, this form is classed as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Human disturbance, introduced animals and those dreaded long-lines have all played a part in the downfall of this amazing bird. The two forms of Royal Albatross are sometimes lumped together, and indeed, a recent reevaluation of the genetic data (this time using the cytochrome-b gen as a parameter) has shown that, while traditional albatross species all differed from each other by more than 9 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

10 3%, the more recent proposed splits (which we have treated as allospecies), with one exception, differed by less than 1%. This difference may not be sufficient to merit specific status. In addition, the endangered Amsterdam Albatross D. amsterdamensis was shown to differ very little from others in the Wandering Albatross complex, and may better be considered a subspecies of the latter. Northern Royal Albatross Diomedea [epomophora] sanfordi: Certainly an uncommon bird on this trip, we just saw a single immature on our way south in the Drake Passage. With a decreasing world population of about 17,000 birds, all of which breed in the Chatham Islands and on the mainland of South Island, New Zealand with a handful on Enderby Island amongst the previous form, this form is classified as Endangered by BirdLife International. Natural disasters such as storms and thinning of eggshells as well as predation by rats and cats have worked alongside the long-liners to deplete this form s numbers. Wandering Albatross (Snowy A) Diomedea [exulans] exulans: This great albatross was much admired during our crossings of the Drake Passage, with numerous individuals ranging from immatures to snowy adults being noted. With a decreasing world population of no more than 25,500 birds this species is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. There has been a steady general 1% decrease every year for the past twenty years with numbers at the breeding colonies in South Georgia in particular decreasing at over 4% per annum and this has largely been attributable to the long-line fisheries. Numbers encountered at sea appear to have decreased by over 50% since the mid-1990s. Much lively debate has been aroused concerning the taxonomy of this species. Some authorities (largely basing their work on the PSC, or Phylogenetic Species Concept ) have recently split the Wandering Albatross into four species. The complex includes the endangered Tristan Albatross D. dabbenena (breeding on Tristan da Cunha and Gough islands), Antipodean Albatross D. antipodensis (largely breeding on the Antipodes Islands, Gibson s Albatross D. gibsoni (breeding on the Auckland Islands), and Wandering or Snowy Albatross D. exulans. The latter is the form that we encountered. The different forms of the Wandering Albatross complex differ in the final plumage they achieve as adults. Only the southern Snowy Albatross goes through all of the plumage stages over a period of about ten years finally ending up as a largely white bird (though for all forms adult males tend to be whiter than females). Light-mantled Albatross (L-m Sooty A) Phoebetria palpebrata: A most gorgeous and delicately built albatross, and a firm favourite for Ian. Small numbers were seen in the Drake Passage and as far south as the South Shetlands. A couple of these brilliant birds were quite inquisitive, and came to within virtual touching distance of the boat! With a decreasing world population of about 58,000 individuals, this species is classified as Nearthreatened by BirdLife International. The main threats come from the long-line fisheries (SAVE THE ALBATROSS) and introduced predators such as rats. Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche [melanophris] melanophris: The most commonly encountered albatross. First seen from land in Tierra del Fuego National Park, they were nearly always with us during our days at sea. The population is estimated at 1,220,000 and is declining rapidly, and as a result, this species has recently been uplisted to Endangered by BirdLife International. It is listed as Endangered because it is estimated to be declining at a very rapid rate over three generations (65 years) on the basis of current rates of decline at the large breeding colonies in the south-west Atlantic. These declines have been attributed to the impact of incidental mortality in long-line and trawl fisheries. See for more information on the desperate plight of the albatrosses, and to see ways in which we can help. Grey-headed Albatross Thalassarche chrysostoma: A most beautiful albatross with relatively low numbers seen in the Drake Passage, including a few super adults and several dingy 10 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

11 immatures, some of which were surprisingly inquisitive. With a decreasing world population of no more than 250,000 this species is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. Sadly the rate of decline in the South Georgia population is said to have been as much as 29% over the past thirty years. Posing a significant threat to its survival are the long-line fisheries that are decimating so many of our albatross populations. PROCELLARIIDAE Common Giant-Petrel (Southern G-P) Macronectes giganteus: The more numerous of the two Macronectes species. This one with the paler or greenish tip to the bill was with us at sea during most of the trip, beginning in Ushuaia. We also saw a number of birds of the rather impressive white morph. With a decreasing world population estimated at 97,000, this species is classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. By-catch from long-lining is of course a major problem, and human disturbance and the decline in populations of Southern Elephant Seal, an important source of carrion, have also been cited as responsible for the reduction in numbers. Hall s Giant-Petrel (Northern G-P) Macronectes halli: A few were noted in the Drake Passage, and were readily recognized by their darker, reddish-tipped bills. It has long been considered conspecific with the previous species, and there is some hybridization in the areas of sympatry. However Northern Giant-petrel does not have a white phase, although some adults become quite pale and difference in timing of breeding and social structure (it is less of a colonial breeder) apparently prevent a higher degree of interbreeding. With a decreasing world population of about 17,500 21,000 birds, this species is classified as Near-threatened by BirdLife International. It is classified as Near Threatened on the basis that it may undergo a moderately rapid population decline in the future owing to the usual key threat: incidental mortality in fisheries. Apparently sustained population increases indicate that mitigation measures may have effectively reduced by-catch, and the species may warrant downlisting in the future. Southern Fulmar (Antarctic F) Fulmarus glacialoides: A lovely and regular companion amongst the squadrons of Cape Petrels, that often followed us for hours. More common south of the convergence. Antarctic Petrel Thalassoica antarctica: After several relatively brief birds, we finally got what we wanted in the South Shetlands. First we had a fly-by in Whaler s Bay, Deception Island, and then, as we headed back from Deception Island, we had a couple that followed the boat for hours! A truly wonderful treat, especially as they were often just a few metres above us, and stayed for the glorious sunset! Definitely one of the great birds of the Antarctic, and a relief for Richard having been gripped-off by Liz! Pintado Petrel (Cape Petrel) Daption capense: This attractive tubenose won the hearts of many and was a regular companion during the pelagic crossings, with largest numbers in colder water and especially numerous during the journey from South Georgia to the peninsula and South Shetlands. The old sailor s name of pintado is derived from the Spanish for painted and indeed its dark plumage does appear to be splashed with white paint. Snow Petrel Pagodroma nivea: We had numerous encounters with these stunning birds. Although they sometimes seemed inquisitive, they seldom stayed around for long. Soft-plumaged Petrel Pterodroma mollis: A single flashed by Steve and myself, and sadly, that was it. It may have been attracted to all of the birds that were feeding near to the humpbacks. Blue Petrel Halobaena caerulea: This very attractive petrel was a personal favourite and was with us most of the time at sea. They bear a passing resemblance to a prion but are somehow more graceful. The species has a circumpolar distribution and in this part of the world breeds on South Georgia, in the Cape Horn archipelago, on the Diego Ramirez islands and possibly in the Falklands. 11 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

12 Antarctic Prion (Dove P) Pachyptila desolata: Though species-level identification in this genus is anything but straightforward, we had the impression that it was after we had crossed the convergence that the prions really changed over to this larger-billed and darker prion. The more pinched supercilium, and, with great views, heavier bill, are the clue to identifying this one. With the advent of digital photography it was often far easier to assess the relative proportions of the bill long after the actual bird had gone! Some 22,000,000 pairs are estimated to breed on South Georgia alone! The race concerned is banksi and the species has been lumped with Broad-billed Prion P. vittata. Indeed the taxonomy of the prions in general is still under debate. Slender-billed Prion (Thin-billed P) Pachyptila belcheri: Seemed to be reasonably common in the northern parts of the Drake Passage, north of the convergence. The flaring supercilium and pale lores give this species a pale-faced appearance. A million pairs are thought to breed in the Falklands alone! White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis: Just small numbers seen, mostly in the Drake Passage, where we saw up to 20 in a day. With a population of about 2,000,000 pairs on South Georgia alone, and a world population estimated at 7,000,000, it is rather surprising that this species is classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. However it is one of the commonest species to attend the long-line fisheries and there have been some recent rapid declines in populations that have set alarm bells ringing. Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus: Best numbers, and views, were as we approached the mouth of the Beagle Channel. Even though the world population is estimated at 20,000,000, this species is classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. It is classified as Near Threatened because although it has a very large global population it is thought to have undergone a moderately rapid decline owing to the impact of fisheries, the harvesting of its young and possibly climate change. HYDROBATIDAE Black-bellied Storm-Petrel Fregetta tropica: We recorded a total of just 20 or so of these smart seabirds, all of which were south of the convergence. The black belly was not always the most obvious feature! Wilson s Storm-Petrel Oceanites oceanicus: This circumpolar species was seen almost every day. Largest numbers were seen in the seas just south of Tierra del Fuego on our way back north. This enchanting little seabird was often seen around the ship, often pattering over the water in order to disturb tasty food morsels just below the surface. This behaviour led sailors to believe that these were soul birds and the reincarnation of cruel ships captains or else of drowned sailors condemned to flutter over the seas for the rest of time. Another traditional name given to these birds was Mother Carey s Chickens referring to the plea from seamen to the Virgin Mary (Mater cara) to protect them from storms. With a total population well into the millions, this has been claimed to be the most numerous seabird in the world. 1,000,000 pairs of the race exasperatus are estimated to breed on the South Shetlands. About 600,000 pairs of the nominate race also breed on South Georgia with smaller numbers on the Falklands and some islands of the Cape Horn archipelago. This petrel was named after Alexander Wilson ( ) a Scottish weaver and poet who immigrated to the New World, fell in love with the new and exciting avifauna and became a committed ornithologist. Wilson collected specimens of this storm-petrel on a journey in the Gulf of Mexico. He presumed them to be European Storm-petrel Hydrobates pelagicus and it wasn t until some years later that Charles Bonaparte realized that they were a distinct species and so named it after its discoverer. Unfortunately Bonaparte was in turn unaware that Heinrich Kuhl had already described the species earlier in Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

13 PELECANOIDIDAE Common Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides urinatrix: Good numbers were noted in the seas just south of Tierra del Fuego on our way back to the Beagle Channel. Typically rather grubby looking, appearing rather brown. A single bird photographed south of the convergence showed many characters of South Georgia Diving-petrel P. georgicus. However, correspondence with experts has met with mixed opinions, some considering it South Georgian, others, including Hadoram Shirihai, suggesting it is probably Common! Magellanic Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides magellani: A small number were seen in the Beagle Channel as we left Ushuaia, and several more were seen in the productive seas just south of Tierra del Fuego on the way back. PHALACROCORACIDAE Rock Shag (R Cormorant) Phalacrocorax magellanicus: Small numbers were seen around Ushuaia, though most were somewhat distant. Imperial Shag (I Cormorant) Phalacrocorax atriceps: A very common cormorant in the Beagle Channel where it is represented by the nominate subspecies. Antarctic Shag (A Cormorant) Phalacrocorax bransfieldensis: The colony of about 300 pairs on Paulet Island will be best remembered, particularly the incoming flights that returned to the colony at speed and at head level, and the nests which were partly composed of the skeleton of ancestors (there s not much else to build them from)! The population of this species is thought to number some 11,000 pairs and is a recent, and by no means universally accepted, split from the Imperial Shag P. atriceps. The scientific name honours Master Edward Bransfield of the Royal Navy, who circumnavigated and charted the South Shetland Islands in He also has the famous Bransfield Strait named after him, as well as a mountain, an island and a point. ARDEIDAE Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: This cosmopolitan species was seen in Ushuaia, where a few of the very dark race obscurus were noted around the harbour. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Black-faced Ibis Theristicus melanopis: We had numerous excellent encounters of this attractive and vocal species in the Ushuaia area. This species is sometimes lumped in Buff-necked Ibis T. caudatus. CATHARTIDAE Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura: One or two hanging around the rubbish dump at Ushuaia were the only ones of the trip. Andean Condor Vultur gryphus: We enjoyed some wonderful views in Tierra del Fuego National Park, and again at Lago Escondido at the end of the trip where we scoped a perched bird. Great stuff. This species has a moderately small global population which is suspected to be declining significantly owing to persecution by man. It is consequently classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International. ACCIPITRIDAE Chilean Hawk Accipiter chilensis: Some great spotting by Ian resulted in brilliant views of a perched individual in Tierra del Fuego National Park. This form is often lumped in Bicoloured Hawk A. bicolor. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus: Some great views of one or two circling over at Tierra del Fuego National Park. 13 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

14 FALCONIDAE Southern Crested-Caracara Caracara plancus: Easy to see at the rubbish tip in Ushuaia! Note the new English name following the splitting of Crested Caracara into this form and Northern Crested Caracara C. cheriway. The species was previously placed in the genus Polyborus but this name has now been abandoned as it is antedated by Caracara. White-throated Caracara Phalcoboenus albogularis: We first saw this smart species in Tierra del Fuego National Park, and enjoyed great views of several more at Ushuaia Rubbish Tip. Chimango Caracara Milvago chimango: A common and noisy scavenger everywhere in the Ushuaia area. CHARADRIIDAE Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis: Small numbers were seen in the Ushuaia area. A particularly noisy species! HAEMATOPODIDAE Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater: We eventually secured good views in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Magellanic Oystercatcher Haematopus leucopodus: A few were seen in the Ushuaia area, and we frequently heard their delightful melancholy piped calls. CHIONIDIDAE Pale-faced Sheathbill (Snowy S) Chionis alba: Our first joined the ship in the Drake Passage and rested for a while before heading off south! We saw plenty more of these rather scruffy looking scavengers at various penguin colonies. Surprisingly, this rather ungainly, pigeonlike bird regularly crosses the Drake Passage as most birds move north to Patagonia to escape the Antarctic winter! STERCORARIIDAE Chilean Skua Catharacta chilensis: Common in the Beagle Channel and around Ushuaia where they happily joined the gulls to scavenge around the rubbish dump! The most richly coloured of this group, with a lovely cinnamon wash on the face. South Polar Skua Catharacta maccormicki: Some classic individuals were seen at various sites, and we had a good workshop, looking at this and the next species, at Whaler s Bay on Deception Island. Most that we saw were of the dark phase, although we did find a few intermediate individuals. A slightly smaller, slimmer and more athletic bird than the tanklike Brown Skuas, however about 10% of the pairs in the South Shetlands are known to be mixed or hybrids. This species is an opportunistic feeder, but fish and krill are a major part of their prey. The main fish prey is the Antarctic herring Pleurogramma antarcticum, which itself feeds on krill. These skuas are enthusiastic predators and kleptoparasites on penguin and shag colonies, but nonetheless are less dependent on piracy and less proficient in taking penguin chicks than is the larger Brown Skua. Robert McCormick ( ) was a surgeon-naturalist on the Erebus voyage and circumnavigation of Antarctica. He shot the type specimen of this skua on 12 th January 1841 on Possession Island. Brown Skua (Antarctic S) Catharacta antarctica: First seen in the drake, we then saw several on Paulet Island and at most other stops on our voyage. We often saw them displaying with their wings outstretched. The form concerned is lonnbergi which is sometimes split off as a separate species, Brown or Subantarctic Skua (genetically it is apparently as distinct as the other southern species of skua). This leaves Antarctic or Falkland Skua for C. antarctica (which also includes the form hamiltoni of Tristan da Cunha and Gough, which in turn may well deserve full species status). 14 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

15 LARIDAE Dolphin Gull Larus scoresbii: One of the world s most attractive gulls, we saw good numbers in the Ushuaia area. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus: Common in Ushuaia and a companion throughout most of the trip except when far from land. At the extreme south of its range, the nominate race of this species apparently feeds primarily on Nacella concinna limpets, which are usually swallowed whole. Around human habitation and scientific stations they readily take advantage of any extra feeding opportunities (such as that created by the sewage outflow at Esperanza!), which likely accounts for some recent range expansion. STERNIDAE Arctic Tern Sterna paradisaea: A couple of foraging individuals were identified during our return through the northern section of the Drake Passage, the small size and translucent secondaries standing out well. South American Tern Sterna hirundinacea: The common breeding tern in the Ushuaia area, we saw several well near our hotel. Antarctic Tern Sterna vittata: The race gaini was reasonably common around the Antarctic Peninsula and in the South Shetlands, with some nice views of breeding birds on Half Moon Island. PSITTACIDAE Austral Parakeet Enicognathus ferrugineus: We enjoyed some great views of these colourful birds in Tierra del Fuego National Park. PICIDAE Magellanic Woodpecker Campephilus magellanicus: As if the pair in Tierra del Fuego National Park were not good enough, we then had an amazing encounter with an extremely confiding male at Lago Escondido on the last day. A truly fantastic species! FURNARIIDAE Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus: We noted a few in Tierra del Fuego National Park, and others at the Martial Glacier. Dark-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes patagonicus: A very confiding pair were seen around a tree stump in Tierra del Fuego National Park, and we also noted a few others. Thorn-tailed Rayadito Aphrastura spinicauda: A delightful denizen of the Nothofagus (Southern Beech) forests of Tierra del Fuego National Park. We enjoyed repeated encounters with this beauty. White-throated Treerunner Pygarrhichas albogularis: Great views of a couple in Tierra del Fuego National Park, the first of which showed spectacularly well as it pulled grubs out of the bark. RHINOCRYPTIDAE Magellanic Tapaculo Scytalopus magellanicus: We enjoyed fantastic views of a mouse-like bird on the forest floor at Tierra del Fuego National Park. The close views were sensational. TYRANNIDAE White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps: Good views of several in the Nothofagus woods of Tierra del Fuego National Park. It would appear that the current White-crested Elaenia comprises of more than one species. The subspecies seen, chilensis, may in the future be split off as a separate species. Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus: Several were seen well in the Nothofagus woods of Tierra del Fuego National Park. 15 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

16 Austral Negrito (Southern Rufous-backed N) Lessonia rufa: Several birds were seen in open areas at Tierra del Fuego National Park, and a few others were seen at the end of the tour. Ochre-naped Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola flavinucha: Some great views of this interesting-looking species at the Martial Glacier. Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola macloviana: Several showed well on the way up to and at the Martial Glacier. Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope: We enjoyed brilliant views of one of these aptly-named birds that came to see us in Tierra del Fuego National Park. HIRUNDINIDAE Chilean Swallow Tachycineta leucopyga: Common around Ushuaia, they look a bit like a House Martin TROGLODYTIDAE House Wren Troglodytes aedon: The race chilensis was numerous around Ushuaia and in Tierra del Fuego National Park. The form concerned is sometimes split off as part of a separate species, Southern House Wren T. musculus, but this split has not been widely accepted, and more research on the issue is needed. TURDIDAE Austral Thrush Turdus falcklandii: Many seen very well including one feeding young while we were watching the tapaculo. EMBERIZIDAE Patagonian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus patagonicus: This colourful finch showed well in the scope at Tierra del Fuego National Park whilst uttering its chiffchaff-like song. Yellow-bridled Finch Melanodera xanthogramma: Excellent views of a few at the Martial Glacier including some bright yellow barossi type males. Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis: Very common in the Ushuaia area. ICTERIDAE Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus: Seen very well on a couple of occasions in Tierra del Fuego National Park. It can often be a tricky species to find. Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca: Several seen well close to Ushuaia. FRINGILLIDAE Black-chinned Siskin Carduelis barbata: Common around Ushuaia and in Tierra del Fuego National Park. PLOCEIDAE House Sparrow Passer domesticus: Introduced. 16 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

17 MAMMALS European Rabbit Oryctolagus cunicillus: A few seen in Tierra del Fuego National Park. Argentine Red Fox Dusicyon culpaeus: A couple of shaggy-coated individuals showed very well in Tierra del Fuego National Park. South American Fur Seal Arctocephalus australis (NL): One was seen near to the entrance of the Beagle Channel by some on the way back. Southern Elephant Seal Mirounga leonina: We enjoyed some close views of a few young bulls on the beach at Half Moon Island, and one or two others were seen. Crabeater Seal Lobodon carcinophagus: A few seen, the best of which was hauled out on the ice during our Emperor Penguin walk! Despite its name this is a species that feeds on krill ( crab is the Norwegian term for krill). With a population estimated at more than million, this is the not only the world s most abundant seal but also the most numerous large mammal after man. Leopard Seal Hydrurga leptonyx (NL): A poor show with just a brief sighting for some at Paulet Island. They apparently become easier later in the season. Weddell Seal Leptonychotes weddelli: Several beached animals showed very well. This is the most southerly breeding mammal in the world (found in fast-ice as deep as 78 south. We had several encounters with this accomplished diver, which dives up to 750 m deep for the giant Antarctic cod Nothotenia coriiceps. This is the largest fish in the region although not related to the true cod as it actually belongs to the sub-order Notothenioidei and is restricted to the cold waters of the Southern Hemisphere. Recent estimates suggest that the world population of the seal may number up to 1,000,000 animals. The sea and the seal are named after the British sailor James Weddell ( ) who entered the sea in 1823 as far as 74º South. Antarctic Minke Whale Balaenoptera bonaerensis: We had a couple of chances to see this small whale around the peninsula. Humpback Whale Megaptera novaengliae: We enjoyed some pretty good views as we headed north in the Drake Passage. One group comprised of as many as 20 animals. Southern Bottlenose Whale Hyperoodon planifrons: John saw one as we headed south in the Drake Passage, and then most of us were fortunate to see two well on the way back north. They surfaced several times enabling us to see that the male was well-scarred. Hourglass Dolphin Lagenorhynchus cruciger: Some lovely views of a small pod as we headed south, though they did not stay for long. 17 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

18 Appendix 1 - Species recorded in Buenos Aires, 19/11 Neotropic Cormorant (Olivaceous C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus American Wood Stork (Wood S) Mycteria americana Rock Dove (feral) Columba livia Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus Golden-breasted Woodpecker (G-b Flicker) Colaptes melanolaimus Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus European Starling (Common S) (introduced) Sturnus vulgaris Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis 18 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

19 Appendix 2 Maps, very kindly produced by Pete 19 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

20 20 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

21 Highlights of the Tour (all photos taken by Pete Morris) Our first day out, in Tierra del Fuego National Park, was a great success. Highlights included (clockwise from top left): a stunning pair of Magellanic Woodpeckers (female on the left); a charismatic Magellanic Tapaculo; colourful Black-faced Ibises; a rarely seen, juvenile, Chilean Hawk; the superb White-throated Treerunner; the impressive Great Grebe and the gorgeous Ashy-headed Goose. 21 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

22 22 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008 Still in Tierra del Fuego National Park, we were pleased to see a couple of Argentine Red Foxes (top left). Other goodies included the aptly-named Fireeyed Diucon (top right), the superficially similar Flying Steamer-Duck (above left) and Flightless Steamer-Duck (above right), a smart flock of Austral Parakeets (left) and the impressive Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (below right). Long-tailed Meadowlarks (bottom left) were found around town, and the following day, a scramble around the Martial Glacier yielded Yellow-bridled Finch (below).

23 Once at sea on the Aleksey Maryshev, it was all eyes on the seabirds as we made a relatively calm crossing of the Drake Passage. These included, clockwise from above: Blue Petrel; Slenderbilled Prion and the similar Antarctic Prion; the stunning Lightmantled Albatross; Grey-headed Albatross - adult and juvenile; Black-browed Albatross and Wandering Albatross (this is an immature bird). 23 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

24 24 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008 This Page: The great albatrosses were constant companions (above left to right) Northern Royal Albatross (imm), Southern Royal Albatross (imm) and Wandering Albatross (subadult). Once in the Weddell Sea, the huge icebergs were everywhere! Our first landing was on Paulet Island where Adelie Penguins were present in their thousands! Facing Page: It was great watching the Adelies going about their business, and we also enjoyed the Antarctic Shags (centre, right), and Brown Skuas (bottom right). Continuing south, numerous Adelies leapt from icebergs (centre, left), and the icescapes were amazing!

25 25 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

26 Once we arrived at Snow Hill Island, tension was high until the first Emperor Penguin (above) was spotted. Our experience with them the following day on the fast-ice was simply extraordinary! There was certainly no need for a Bird-of-the-Trip vote!! 26 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

27 The happy group assembled on the fast-ice, even looking happy before the Emperors appeared (photo by Lex van Groningen). On leaving the fast-ice, many small bergs, with attendant Adelie Penguins, made our escape a little tricky! Seabirds in the more southerly waters included (from left to right below), the emblematic Snow Petrel, the superb Southern Fulmar, and the stunning Cape Petrel, which was an almost constant companion! 27 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

28 This Page: The Gentoo Penguins of Port Lockroy and Cuverville Island amused us for hours! Facing Page: The ice-scapes around Cuverville Island (top) were sensational. The Chinstrap Penguins of Halfmoon Island were wonderful, and some of us spent sometime scrutinizing the South Polar Skuas (bottom two, dark and intermediate phases). 28 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

29 29 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008

30 30 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008 A Gentoo Penguin on the volcanically-heated beach at Deception Island (top left) and some of the remains of the whaling industry on Deception Island (above). As we left Deception Island, superb Antarctic Petrels accompanied us, right through to sunset (below), a fitting climax to our time in Antarctica.

31 After such an amazing voyage, our day back in Ushuaia was always going to be something of an anticlimax! However, we still managed incredible views of a male Magellanic Woodpecker (above right) and finished our birding at Ushuaia dump (where else!) where Chilean Skuas (top left), Dolphin Gulls (above and right), and Southern Caracaras (below) were among the many birds present. 31 Birdquest: Emperor Penguins of Antarctica 2008