Spain Extremadura at Christmas

Transcription

1 Naturetrek December 2017 Common Chiffchaff by Jonathan Bye Cinereous Vulture by Simon Tonkin Common Cranes by Simon Tonkin Spanish Sparrows by Simon Tonkin Report compiled by Niki Williamson & Simon Tonkin Images courtesy of Jonathan Bye & Simon Tonkin Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0) E: W:

2 Spain Extremadura at Christmas Tour participants: Simon Tonkin & Niki Williamson (leaders) with twelve Naturetrek clients Summary This seven-day festive exploration of the fascinating wildlife of the plains, mountains and wetlands of Extremadura was a Christmas to remember! Heading out from the welcoming surroundings of our home-fromhome at Casa Rural Viña las Torres, we were treated to breathtaking views of star species including Great and Little Bustards, Black-bellied and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, Bonelli s and Spanish Imperial Eagles and Cinereous Vulture! Other wildlife highlights included Iberian Grey Shrike, Rock Bunting, Blue Rock Thrush, Rock Sparrow, Blackwinged Kite, clusters of adorable Little Owls, Crested, Thekla, Lesser Short-toed and Calandra Larks, huge flocks of Spanish, House and Tree Sparrows, Red Deer and European Otter, not to mention experiencing the spectacle of hundreds of Common Cranes calling softly as they came in to roost against a setting sun. As well as being treated to some stunning days of birding, the group enjoyed relaxed days in great weather, taking in the gorgeous wildlife, scenery, culture and cuisine Extremadura has to offer. Day 1 Friday 22nd December UK; Madrid Airport; A5 services; Embalse de Arrocampo For most, the tour started with a flight from the UK to Madrid. Simon and Niki gathered the group together late morning at Madrid airport, including Elaine who had flown in the night before, and Jan who had chosen to come early and explore the Madrid area for a few days. We were soon free of Madrid and enjoying views of flocks of Spotless Starlings and many Red Kites and Common Buzzards from the minibuses as the city streets gave way to gently rolling hills of olive groves, pasture land and low-intensity agriculture. For lunch we stopped at a service area alongside the A5. As we debussed the first bird we saw was a Cinereous Vulture! This magnificent specimen circled low over the car park for several minutes, displaying its huge square wings and surprisingly dainty silver feet, before disappearing off into the distance leaving superb views of Red Kites in its wake. We ate at a typical Spanish venta, bustling with diners. We tucked into simple but delicious sandwiches of serrano ham, mature sheep s cheese and omelette on fresh baked bread. We stretched our legs and birded the meadows next to the car park, picking up Black Redstart, Skylark, Crested Lark and surprisingly, a flock of Lesser Short-toed Larks close to the vehicle. Moving on down the road, we took another leg-stretch at the Embalse de Arrocampo and its associated wetlands and meadows. Amongst the reedy backwaters we heard and glimpsed Western (Purple) Swamphen and Penduline Tit as well as Common Coot, Moorhen and a lone female Gadwall. A short stroll nearby gave us our first look at Spanish Sparrows and Zitting Cisticolas, showing well. An Iberian Grey Shrike sat proud on the telegraph wires, and an endearing Little Owl roosted on the roof of a farm building. Simon spotted a Blackwinged Kite in flight, which then perched on a pylon for us to admire what a bird! Not too much further and we arrived at our lovely hotel, Casa Rural Viña las Torres, just outside Madroñera, where we were greeted by our hosts Juan-Pedro and Belen, who settled everyone into their rooms before Naturetrek January 18 1

3 providing us with a welcome drink and some delicious taster plates of local chorizos, hams and cheeses. Soon we were tucking into a delicious meal of traditional Extremadureño fare with a twist, featuring plenty of produce from Belen s garden, accompanied by Juan-Pedro s choice of wine and a tasty acorn liqueur! Not bad for a travel day! Day 2 Saturday 23rd December Trujillo; Santa Marta de Magasca; Rio Tambuja; Sierra de Fuentes After a superb hearty breakfast, we set off into the frosty morning to explore our local plains habitat. It was difficult to tear ourselves away from our accommodation however, as a large flock of beautiful powder blue and peach Iberian Magpies were working their way past, and several Eurasian Hoopoes were adorning fence posts just outside the front gate! On the way we made a brief stop by the old bullring in Trujillo, which looks out onto some small walled pastures. We enjoyed watching a smart male Black Redstart and cheeky Sardinian Warbler before moving on to our main destination. The plains of Santa Marta de Magascar are designated as Special Protection Areas because of their importance for specialist steppe wildlife, and this is what we would be looking for today. At our first stop, we viewed out over the plains from a built up embankment. Niki was giving the group a workshop on the differences between the Crested and Thekla Larks in front of us when Simon spotted our first bustards. A flock of Little Bustards were grazing quietly amongst the ruderal vegetation on the hillside, looking back towards us occasionally, and just minutes into our first stop! Just over the hill we made another stop, and what at first glance had appeared to be flock of sheep turned out to be Great Bustards, making this a superb two-bustard day! Things just kept getting better as a flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse flew in calling and landed near the Bustards. We had lunch to the crackling song of many Calandra Larks flitting around the fields around us, and the mournful calls of Golden Plovers. As we were enjoying some chocolate, we spotted a young prince! A first-year Spanish Imperial Eagle in flight! Not long after, the king himself - an adult bird followed, and we all got good views. Far away, we could see our first six Common Cranes flying by. After coffee in Santa Marta de Magasca we moved back up to the plains, this time of Sierra de Fuentes. We scanned around finding many Red Kites, Northern Ravens and a Griffon Vulture perched up on pylons. This suggested that either a carcass was nearby, or that they were feeding on afterbirth as lambing was in full swing on the steppes. Little Owls initially proved hard to find, but as the afternoon wore on we eventually found six or more, seemingly seeking our attention from perches on walls, rocks and telegraph poles. A magnificent young Spanish Imperial Eagle was also perched, not too far away, allowing prolonged views. After a delicious dinner at Juan-Pedro and Belen s, we were treated to a charming piano recital by their eldest daughter, a qualified concert pianist, which rounded the evening off a treat! 2 Naturetrek January 18

4 Day 3 Sunday 24th December Monfragüe Natural Park Bright sunshine and a fresh wind greeted us this fine Christmas Eve morning as we headed out to explore the famous Monfragüe area. Christmas Eve, or Nochebuena, is the big celebration in Spain, and as we knew everyone would be busy eating and merry-making, this was the ideal day to explore the deserted park! We wended our way higher and higher through simply fantastic mountain scenery, and soon made our first stop at the cliffs of Peña Falcon. It wasn t the chilly breeze that took our breath away, but the staggering numbers of Griffon and Cinereous Vultures filling the sky and hissing from seemingly every available ledge of this imposing rocky outcrop. We took time to enjoy this impressive spectacle, also spotting Blue Rock Thrush and Black Redstarts flitting around the rock face. Moving on to the village of Villareal, we made a comfort stop and waited in the car park while Simon sought out somewhere open. A flock of Common Linnets were on the ground nearby and when Simon returned he shouted Citril Finch and there, amongst the Linnets, were six of them! We were not expecting an encounter with this largely Pyrenean bird, a rarity for Extremadura! Our lunch stop was at a beautiful picnic site at Mirador La Tajadilla, by the Embalse de Torrejon dam. Here another vulture colony yielded further superb views of Cinereous Vultures on the wing. An adult Bonelli s Eagle drifted coolly past, and we enjoyed Green Sandpipers and Grey Wagtails along the shore, and a glistening flock of Iberian Magpies eyeing our picnic leftovers! Mirador de la Portilla del Tietar is another dramatic rocky outcrop, where it can be seen how the layers of sedimentary rock twisted and folded in on themselves. The resulting crags and ledges make a great habitat for mountain birds, and we again enjoyed watching Blue Rock Thrushes and Crag Martins as well as many Griffon and Cinereous Vultures. We spent a good while enjoying this area and our patience was rewarded as a beautiful adult Spanish Imperial Eagle gave us a prolonged aerial display as well as perching on top of the rocky outcrop and proudly cronking for us to all hear. On the way, we had an astonishing encounter with an adult Bonelli s Eagle as we crossed the bridge back towards Peña Falcon. It smashed through the hundreds of Feral Pigeons roosting there, almost hitting the first minibus! As we all piled out of the buses to watch, it hung around for a long time, perching on various roosts before repeatedly molesting the terrified pigeons! It was now time to head home to get ready for our Nochebuena feast, picking up several dozen Common Cranes and a flock of Spanish Sparrows in the open meadows on the way. Our meal in Trujillo was a veritable feast a five-course taster menu including courgette gazpacho, prawn salad with mango and mint vinaigrette, cod fillet with saffron allioli, Iberian pork steak in mushroom, ginger and sweet wine sauce, and an apple and limoncello dessert, accompanied by a fine red wine and a glass of local cava. Naturetrek January 18 3

5 Day 4 Monday 25th December Embalse de Alcollarìn We had a change of habitat on this happy Christmas Day, as we explored some of the excellent wetland habitats the area has to offer. We headed out to the Alcollarìn reservoir and indulged ourselves with a full day of enjoying waterbirds! Our first couple of stops near the lower dam yielded lots of Great Crested Grebes, Little Grebes and our first Black-necked Grebes of the day. Armies of Common Coots marched around the grassy shores of the reservoir. A Dartford Warbler was heard calling, and with a bit of patience it eventually showed well, giving everyone views. A large flock of Spanish Sparrows bobbed their chestnut heads endearingly as they foraged along the shoreline. On the far shore a Great Egret could be seen, as well as a surprising Black Stork that had apparently chosen to winter here. Marsh Harriers and Red Kites hunted overhead while Common Kingfishers flitted round the shore. A couple of young Greater Flamingoes were also found. But in the end the show was stolen by three Eurasian Otters, playing in the dead branches in the middle of the lake. Moving on to our picnic site at the upper dam, we enjoyed watching enormous flocks of wintering Common Chiffchaffs fly-catching along the dam; more than some of the group had seen in a lifetime! There was a nice selection of waders including Black-winged Stilt, Green and Common Sandpipers, Common Snipe and, perhaps surprisingly, Little Ringed Plovers foraging on the shore. A flock of Common Waxbills called noisily from the reeds. Our Christmas picnic was a delicious selection of local cheeses, meats, salads and olives, accompanied by copious amounts of celebratory cava and finished off with some delicious marzipan chocolates. As we drove round to the other side of the reservoir, we had even better views of an Otter hanging on to the semi-submerged branches. And to our delight, we spotted two adult Bonelli s Eagles perched up in the bare branches of a tree! One faced towards us and one away from us, giving us great views of the salient identification features of both breast and mantle! We drove back through the arable fields near Campo Lugar, enjoying wintering flocks of hundreds of Skylarks as we went. We celebrated the day with another five-course feast, this time featuring delights such as pumpkin and vanilla soup, bream with candied tomato and shrimp and steak with black truffle sauce not to mention some equally delicious vegetarian choices like guacamole-stuffed tomatoes and vegetable tempuras. Day 5 Tuesday 26th December Campo Lugar; Moheda Alta; Vegas Altas A day of plains and cranes today! After breakfast we set off intrepidly into the morning mist, determined to make the most of our day. The ornithological weather gods were on our side however, as by the time we had finished our brief picnic shop, the clouds had lifted and our view was clear! We headed out to the plains around Campo Lugar, making a stop looking down on the fields where many hundreds of Calandra Larks made them positively sparkle. We spent a little time making sure everyone had great telescope views of these dapper larks. The sward was full of Northern Lapwings and Golden Plovers, and many Common Buzzards and Red Kites occupied nearby telegraph poles. A mixed group of Great and Little Bustards 4 Naturetrek January 18

6 were also showing well in the fields across from us! Then, out of the blue came a bubbling call and two Blackbellied Sandgrouse appeared! Flying right overhead, they made a complete circuit of us, allowing great views of both their golden mantles and black bellies. On the way to our next stop we made an unscheduled halt as a Black-winged Kite was spotted in flight. After some searching we eventually picked it up perched on a distant telegraph pole, staring back at us! For lunch we picnicked at Moheda Alta amongst the Holm Oak dehesa, or pastureland. The air was filled with the gentle calls of Common Cranes as many hundreds flew over and grazed in the fields all around us magical! In the woods we enjoyed views of an Iberian Grey Shrike and large flocks of Serins and Iberian Magpies as we ate. From a purpose-built hide just down the track we were able to overlook the recently harvested rice paddies and had great views of the hordes of Common Cranes there, as well as White Storks, Greylag Geese (real wild ones!), Northern Shoveler and Common Teal. As well as two Marsh Harriers, we saw a superb male Hen Harrier which spent a good while hunting right in front of us. Squeaking flocks of Red Avadavats and Common Waxbills were in the reeds and scrub around the hide. We were extremely impressed by the absolutely enormous mixed flocks of thousands of Spanish, House and Tree Sparrows which swirled around us in their own style of murmuration. Driving around the fields of Vegas Altas, we found a great selection of waders in the half-flooded rice fields and drainage canals, including Dunlin, Black-tailed Godwit, Little Ringed Plover and Green Sandpiper, as well as Grey Wagtails. Heading back, we again connected with a Black-winged Kite in flight. It perched up on a telegraph pole once more, but this time right next to us, allowing us to stare into its red eyes! As we finished the day, lines of Common Cranes were drifting across the pink skyline, and we ended our day s birding listening to their delightful bubbling calls in the watery winter sunset. We headed back to Viñas del Torres, grateful for a relaxed evening in front of the open fire, followed by a delicious home-cooked meal. Day 6 Wednesday 27th December Belèn Plains; Trujillo Today we grabbed the chance to get our final hit of plains birding, heading out to the sweeping skylines around Belèn. Many Northern Lapwings, Golden Plovers, Red Kites and Common Buzzards accompanied our drive. In the heart of the plains, we were pleased to come across several Rock Sparrows perched on the fence with Common Linnets and Goldfinches. Scanning the landscape from a high point, we spotted seven Black-Bellied Sandgrouse amongst the many larks in a nearby arable field. Everyone got telescope views, and we watched their characteristic flight as they whirred away into the distance. Pausing by a small pond on the outskirts of Trujillo, we were able to add Water Pipit to our list, as well as admiring Green Sandpipers and Common Snipe. We spent the end of the afternoon exploring the picturesque medieval walled town of Trujillo, home of conquistadors and the set of Game of Thrones! After a warming coffee we had free time to explore the winding streets and do a bit of souvenir shopping from the numerous shops selling fine local produce. But not before admiring the flocks of Crag Martins flying over the square and clinging to the sandstone fascias of the ancient buildings! As the sun lowered, large groups of Spotless Starlings were pouring in to roost, and as we wandered back to the minibuses parked on the outskirts of town, every tree was crammed with hundreds of chattering birds, silhouetted against the red sky a fantastic spectacle with which to end our day! Naturetrek January 18 5

7 Day 7 Thursday 28th December Return to the UK via Madrid How the week had flown past! After a final hearty breakfast, we said our goodbyes to our hosts Juan-Pedro and Belen, and made our way to Madrid airport. En route we were given a spectacular send off as hundreds of Common Cranes flew from their roosts across the rising sun! At Madrid airport we said our thanks to Simon and Niki, who had enjoyed a fantastic time with this superfriendly group and thanked them for their excellent festive company. It was then a return flight to the UK, where another Naturetrek adventure came to an end. Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! Trujillo Sunset by Simon Tonkin 6 Naturetrek January 18

8 Species Lists Birds ( =recorded but not counted; H = heard only; C = circa) December Common name Scientific name Greylag Goose Anser anser Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus 2 3 Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna 4 4 Gadwall Anas strepera Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope 70 6 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata Eurasian Teal Anas crecca Common Pochard Aythya ferina Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 3 11 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus 2 16 Black Stork Ciconia nigra 2 17 White Stork Ciconia ciconia Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia 4 19 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Great Egret Ardea alba Little Egret Egretta garzetta Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus Cinereous Vulture Aegypius monachus Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti Bonelli's Eagle Aquila fasciata Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Red Kite Milvus milvus 33 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 34 Great Bustard Otis tarda Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax Western Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio 3 37 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Eurasian Coot Fulica atra Common Crane Grus grus , Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus 42 European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria 3 43 Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa 5 46 Common Redshank Tringa totanus 1 47 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Naturetrek January 18 7

9 December Common name Scientific name Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Dunlin Calidris alpina Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis Feral Dove Columba livia domesticus 55 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus 56 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto 57 Little Owl Athene noctua Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops 7 5 c Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major 1 61 Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpei 1 62 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 1 64 Iberian Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius 5 c Iberian Magpie Cyanopica cooki Eurasian Magpie Pica pica 68 Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula Northern Raven Corvus corax European Crested Tit Lophophanes cristatus 1 71 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus c Great Tit Parus major 10 4 c Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus 1 74 Woodlark Lullula arborea 1 75 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis Thekla Lark Galerida theklae Crested Lark Galerida cristata 78 Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 6 15 c Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata 2 87 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala Common Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea 2 91 Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor 93 Common Blackbird Turdus merula Redwing Turdus iliacus Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus European Robin Erithacus rubecula 3 98 Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros Naturetrek January 18

10 December Common name Scientific name Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola 101 House Sparrow Passer domesticus 102 Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis , Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Red Avadavat Amandava amandava 107 Dunnock Prunella modularis Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea White Wagtail Motacilla alba alba 110 Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis 111 Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes European Greenfinch Chloris chloris Common Linnet Linaria cannabina 10 c European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis 117 European Serin Serinus serinus Eurasian Siskin Spinus spinus Citril Finch Carduelis citrinella Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus 1 Mammals 1 Red Fox Vulpes vulpes 1 2 Iberian Hare Lepus granatensis Rabbit Orytolagus cuniculus 15 4 Red Deer Cervus elaphus 5 Brown Rat Rattus norvegicus 1 6 Eurasian Otter Lutra lutra 3 7 A moth (no English common name) Lemonia philopalus 1 dead 8 Mink Neovison vison 1 Bustard & Sandgrouse by Jonathan Bye Naturetrek January 18 9