Dominican Republic: Itinerary: 05/03/2007 to 12/03/2007. Eddie Marsh, Paul Harvey, Steve Piotrowski and Dave Fairhurst:

Transcription

1 Dominican Republic: Itinerary: 05/03/2007 to 12/03/2007 Eddie Marsh, Paul Harvey, Steve Piotrowski and Dave Fairhurst: Flight Only: Charter booked with Tropical Sky return Gatwick to Puerto Plata. Car Hire: 4X4 Montero Sport $581 US dollars. Guide Miguel Landestoy: He was charging $150 per day + expenses; accommodation and meals, we were lucky as an American guy who had used him before wanted join up for a couple of days therefore Paul Harvey negotiated and he reduced our rate and the expenses as the guy joining us would cover some of Miguel s expenses etc (In the end it cost us around each + tip?). He was well worth it a superb guide; we would not have seen all the Endemics and Regional Endemics without his services no way. Hotels: Jacomonda at Bonao, just north of Santa Domingo. Hotel Caribe at Barahone on the sea front. Hotel Turo at Monte Plata. Problems: No serious problems, driving a bit hairy in cities and larger towns, signposts non existent, no good maps. Visa Cards were a problem to use at the Hotel Caribe we had to pay in cash as the machine would not process any of our cards. Luckily we had spare cash (US Dollars and UK Pounds) and were able to change it in Bani on the way to Monte Plata or we would have been snookered. 5 th March 2007: Charter Flight booked with Tropical Sky from Gatwick leaving approximately 10.30am arriving at Puerto Plata at 18.50pm. We arrived on time, clearing customs was the usual chaos but we were soon at the car hire office collecting the vehicle. The 4X4 was a bit tatty but always a good thing as you don t have to worry about scratches etc. As we left Puerto Plata the light was going and it was not long before it was dark, we soon got lost and ended up in the Puerto Plata dock area, we managed to get back on track quickly and heading for Santiago the second biggest city. We were making excellent time once we got onto Highway 1 nice dual carriageway, and then when arriving at Santiago the highway ran out, we kept on what we thought was the right road as we had not seen any signs to tell us to turn to the left or right. After a while you just knew this was not right and we were heading right into the city centre, still no signs to give a clue; and our map were no use what so ever. When we arrive more or less in the centre we thought we would see signs for Santa Domingo, but were there any; none, after driving around like headless chickens and the traffic was chaos we knew we were in a bit of trouble. After driving around hopelessly for some time it was time to start asking for directions we knew this was not going to be easy as there was a lack of Spanish in the vehicle, after asking several times for directions by showing Santa Domingo on the map and going around in circles a few times we eventually got ourselves back on Highway 1. This nightmare had cost us nearly two hours of hell in this city, now hopefully it would be plain sailing on to Bonao which is about an hour north of Santa Domingo. We made really good time and the road was not to busy, although they all seem to drive on full beam, the Hotel was well signed and just set back off the road there was also shops and a big café which would be useful for breakfast. We got checked in OK and it was now around pm so it was time to get our heads down as it had been a tiring day all round. See Systematic List for Species Seen. Night: Hotel Jacomonda at Bonao: Draft /03/2008

2 6 th March 2007: Up around 06.00am Dave and I went and had a quick puff, it was not quite light although there were House Sparrows chirping in the bushes by the hotel entrance. We knocked to see if Paul and Steve were up and about, Paul was well organised and Steve was getting there. We decided to get packed and get the vehicle loaded so we got a good start to the day; we went next door for breakfast and had some sort of cheese, ham and tomato toasties, which went down very well with juice and coffee. We were soon heading down Highway 1 to Santa Domingo, the traffic was busy and as we approached the capital it was getting tailed back. Miguel had sent Paul some maps as our first port of call was to be the Botanical Gardens which are good for birding, and we thought this would be a nice introduction to get our eye in. It was very busy and it was a bit difficult to see where we wanted to turn off, but we did eventually find it and we made our way to the car park out the main gate of the gardens, it was handy that they had staff on the gate which made us feel more comfortable about leaving all our stuff in the vehicle. Soon found ourselves in the Botanical Gardens and seeing some nice birds including our first endemics, the garden were kept in such immaculate condition it was unreal what the cost must be. Birding till late morning we stop at a café near the entrance for a nice cold drink stop, we left the park and headed for the Santa Domingo Zoo as Miguel had told Paul this would be the only place to have a chance at West-Indian Whistling Ducks. The zoo was easy to find with the maps we had, on arrival a man waved us up to park near the entrance it was not busy, we paid the entrance fee and made our way to the Flamingo pools in search of the Ducks. It did not take long to find these free flying birds some roosting and other feeding on the flamingo food. It was time to go and pick Miguel up from his home town at Bani. We were soon on our way and did not have much trouble getting onto the main road as Bani and Barahone were sign posted, we had arrange to meet him at the fast food outlet called Pollo Rey which was in the main street of the town. We had chicken and plantains plus drink as a late lunch as we arrived ahead of our meeting time. When Miguel arrived we then went to his house to pick up his luggage which was close by, with this done we were on our way to Barahone. Making good time we arrived in Barahone well before dark, Miguel suggested that we get check into the Hotel Caribe and get rid of the luggage before going out birding, this did not take too long and were out birding. As it was still good light he first took us to a Piculet site he knew near by. As the light was going it was off for the Nightjars. It was fairly late when arriving back at the hotel so it was decided to eat in, the food was good and the beers went down well it had been a good day all target species seen; done the Log. Time was getting on and with the log done it was time for bed as we had a really early start in the morning, we had parked the vehicle in the locked up compound behind the hotel, but Miguel said the night porter would let us out in the morning. 7 th March 2007: Alarm went off at 03.30am checked that the others were up, went to the vehicle and it was bad news as someone had jammed us in, luckily it was only a car and there was enough space bounce it over enough for us to get the 4X4 out, what a bit of luck as how we would have found out who s car it was would have been impossible, night porter unlocked the gates and we were on our way. Its about a two plus drive from Barahone to the high elevation of Sierra de Bahoruco in search of La Selle s Thrush which the only chance is about one hour and half from first light, so time was of an essence. Miguel estimated that we would have a few minutes to spare to stop for a Stygian Owl which had been heard calling close to the road in the mid elevation zone we stopped but had no luck. We reached the high elevation on time and it was still quite dark. Draft /03/2008

3 Birding till late morning and dipping the La Selle s Thrush we headed off down the mountain it was sad to see the stark contrast between the lush forest of the Dominican and baron treeless hills of Haiti were they had totally de-forested apart from an odd eucalyptus, Miguel was telling us that the Haitian s are encroaching into their forest know which is a worrying thought. Miguel decided to take to Puerto Escandido to do some birding and have our picnic lunch there; also here was a chance of Northern Potoo that he had seen roosting a few days earlier. After lunch, birding and dipping the Potoo we headed off to Jimani and Lake Enriquillo area to spend the late afternoon and early evening birding here. Miguel to a nice restaurant about a mile along the prom from our hotel very large and nice especially the waitress s, done the Log during the meal. 8 th March 2007: Left the Hotel Caribe at 06.00am and headed for the Jaragua National Park, this being dry lowland forest, we birded here till mid morning. Then it was time to move on to the Alcoa Road which is high elevation mainly pine forest to search for Hispanolian Crossbills, after some searching and having picnic lunch we caught up with this species. Early afternoon now and we headed back to the coast to spend the rest of our day around the Cabo Rojo area, Miguel knew a coastal site where there was a chance of seeing White-tailed Tropicbird. Luckily saw this species leave the cliffs on our arrival, we could have easily have dipped as we spent sometime at some roadside pools looking for waders. Whilst here at this site there were a couple of Haitian Fishermen probably illegally fishing, with the help of Miguel we negotiated a few US dollars for them to take me and Steve along the cliffs to see if there were anymore W-T- Tropicbirds sitting around. Unfortunately there wasn t any, but an interesting little boat ride we got wet as the swell was quite large and splashing over the front of the boat, also the boat was not in the best of condition, very leaky and one of the guys was having to bale it out continuously anyway we arrived back where Paul and Dave had been waiting patiently. We left here and went to some mangroves for Yellow Warbler (Carribean Race), and then we finished the day back at the pools before heading back to the Hotel. On arriving back at the hotel Ken had arrived (we had agreed with Miguel before the trip that it would be OK for him to join us) Miguel introduced Ken to us as he had guided him before, he was from the east coast of the USA, he seemed friendly and a sound sort of guy. We all dinner at the hotel, Ken retired early as it had been a tiring day for him and it was going to be an early start tomorrow; done the Log and retired ourselves. 9 th March 2007: Got woke up around 03.00am as our vehicles alarm was going off, we had some odd moments with it earlier in the trip!!! Dave offered to go and try to switch it off; expect the night watchman and guests were well pleased!!! We left as planned 04.00am, we were heading for the high elevation of Sierra de Bahoruco for another crack at the La Selle s Thrush. Even with Ken following in his car which we thought he would struggle in to negotiate the rough track to reach the high altitude forest required; we made very good time so we had time to stop for Northern Potoo. Miguel stopped at a known site along a coffee plantation, it was still dark so he played a tape and the bird responded very quickly. It was picked up in the spotlight; it then landed on a post close to the vehicle where we all had excellent views. Miguel managed to follow the bird with the spotlight when it flew off, it flew around and crossed the road and perched in a dead tree beyond the plantation the viewing was a bit distant. Draft /03/2008

4 We made good progress and even Ken was amazing us by keeping up with the pace, we arrived at the our destination (Thrush Site) as it was just breaking light, Miguel played the tape and got a bird to respond it was on a downward slope. After searching for some time over a fifty metre stretch of the track; Paul signalled that he had the bird below him; the big problem was that the viewing was very restrictive; Dave and I had brief but poor views as the light was not good, the bird moved and Steve and Ken had not seen it. Luckily the thrush move up the slope and flew across the track right above our heads where we all had excellent views of this cracking male. We were amazed to see him like this as we thought would stay low to the ground in deep cover skulking. Perhaps Ken brought us luck this morning, we were all well pleased plus Miguel; we would have been gutted to have gone home not seeing this splendid endemic; while at this point on the road we had excellent views of White-fronted Quail-Dove feeding in the open. Miguel then took us down to mid elevation to an area where he knew there was a possibility of Bay-breasted Cuckoo as this would be a another lifer for Ken and we would not complain to see another, we were not disappointed as Miguel did not take long to hunt one out and excellent views were obtained, also a Golden Swallow turned up out of the blue. Now all very happy with this mornings birding we head down and back to sea level, we stopped for lunch at little café in Duverge; we spent most of the afternoon birding around Jimani and Lake Enriquilla area. On route back to the Hotel we had a brief birding stop at Laguna de Cabral and Miguel arrange a boat trip on the lake for tomorrow morning. Back to the hotel for a quick freshen up then we all went to the restaurant along the prom with the nice waitress s, it was our last night in Barahone so it was treat to eat here again tonight. It had been an excellent days birding and Ken had some good new lifers today; we done the log while Miguel chatted up the two prettiest waitress s; it was a great last night here. When we arrived back at the Caribe we decided with Miguel we settle the bill so we could get a good start in the morning, then the hassle started as the guy at the desk could not activate any of our Visa cards, I still have my doubts that he knew what he was doing as he was like a night porter. Anyway this put us in a bit of a jam as we had use most of our available cash; luckily Steve and I had brought some extra cash surplus to requirement and Miguel said he could take us to a exchange in Bani on route tomorrow, we worked out that we just have enough to see out the trip but it would be close! 10 th March 2007: Packed and got the vehicles loaded and left the hotel well before first light, we were heading for the Eastern Slopes of the Sierra de Bahoruco in search of the very rare Eastern Chat Tanager which until recently could only be seen in Haiti. When we arrived at the site it was light but the weather was very drizzly with poor visibility, Miguel was finding it hard to locate any birds calling as the weather was not good, after waiting for some time with the weather improving a bird was heard calling distantly. Heading of in search of the bird Miguel was hearing it calling on a regular basis, eventually we were close and the bird was seen, but it was continuously on the move and therefore not everyone saw it. It was not long before another bird was nearby and in a more open area it was soon located and showed very well in the full open in low braches with not much cover, and then another bird appeared in the vicinity. What excellent and rewarding views for our patients and Miguel s expertise brilliant work. Making our way back everyone had smiling faces as this was the hardest species to see so far and would have been a dip until recently. Headed off to Laguna de Cabral to do the boat between 10.30am to 12.30pm roughly, it was quite a walk from the road to where the boats were tied up our boatman had to carry the outboard motor on his shoulder all this way. Draft /03/2008

5 Setting of in really calm conditions we were soon ticking off some new trip ticks that would boost the list, they took us to some reedy channels to look for Rails but no joy. There were good numbers of Ring-necked Ducks and Lesser Scaup on the lake but the light made it difficult to get great views, the lake became very choppy on the way back as the wind had got up, our other boatman was at the front and it was not long before he was soaked through Steve and I were next up and we were get fairly wet as well, once back on dry land and walking we soon dried out. It was time to head off to Monte Plata, as Miguel had a stake out for Ashy-faced Owl at a Palm Nut Plantation, we stopped on route for lunch and our money changing exercise which ended up to be painless and we would have enough to see the trip out OK. On arrival at Monte Plata we checked into the Hotel Turo which was of a reasonable standard, presumed Miguel had stayed here before; having unloaded the vehicles and put the luggage into our rooms we headed to the plantations. We were soon on the road into the plantation and in the vicinity of the owls nest; we just had to be patient for the light to fade. Miguel had found the nest in a palm tree next to the road on the edge of this large commercial plantation while doing some ground work before we arrived. The first bird we had flying along the edge of a field was very pale and Miguel thought it was a Barn Owl, but it was decided later that it was this Ashy-faced. The second bird flying in one of the plantation rides close to the nest, with this one we had excellent views especially head on and at very close quarters and the dark face was seen clearly. This was another species that we were not expecting to see; very few trips catch up with this species, Ken was also delighted with this new lifer. It was back to the hotel for some beers and a good meal; we also updated the log before retiring. See Systematic List for Species Seen. Night: Hotel Turo in Monte Plata. 11 th March 2007: We actually got a lay in this morning as we did not have leave till 07.00am; we were heading for the village of Los Limonas where Miguel had arranged to meet some friends who were working on the Ridgeway Hawk Project. On arrival at the researchers houses on the edge of the village Miguel introduced us to the two guys who were carrying out this important work; they were being funded with Canadian money. They took us the short walk to a ridge where we observed the nest in a palm tree at a reasonable distance; we had good views of the female on the nest. Then after some patients we had excellent views of the male flying close to the nest in the valley, also the female had a brief flight. The researchers took us back to the village where we were introduced to the family of the main man, they were extremely friendly and his wife supplied some refreshments which were very much appreciated. When arranging the trip this was a species we were note expecting to see, so a real bonus and thank to our guide Miguel who managed to cram all the endemics and there sites into our short schedule. With this rare endemic raptor in the bag we headed back to the hotel for lunch; it was a farewell lunch as Miguel and Ken would be heading back Santa Domingo this afternoon he is leading another trip from tomorrow. We said our goodbyes to Miguel and thanked him very much for his excellent guiding skills and tireless efforts to get us all the endemics and regional endemic in just five days, half day on the 6 th then four full days and this half day on the 11 th ; we also said cheerio to Ken who was a good guy he enjoyed our company as we did his. As we were staying at the hotel tonight we decided to go back and bird the plantation road as we had only heard Thicknee last night and we thought there might be a chance of seeing one. Things did not go well as heavy rain persisted most of the afternoon so we only birded from the vehicle. Evening meal at the hotel and done the log; just one day left and no sweating as we have cleaned up which is excellent. See Systematic List for Species Seen. Night: Hotel Turo in Monte Plata. Draft /03/2008

6 12 th March 2007: Got packed and had breakfast; loaded the vehicle and left the hotel at 07.30am there was a bit of debating on whether we could cut across country to head back to Puerto Plata; we gambled and took the chance. After about one hours driving we came across some major roadwork s and the river that was on the map; but unfortunately no bridge only an old one that was in a bad state and had not been in use for some time it looked like a new one would be built with all the work going on. It became clear that we would have to take the long route back by going south and across to get on Highway 1 to go north to Puerto Plata, we stopped for a bit of birding where the habitat looked suitable; it was surprising where the time had disappeared so we had to push on to make up some time; eventually we reached the highway and it was a coincident that it was more or less where we spent our first night a Bonao; so we stopped for lunch here as the café done good food. So now on a good road we made good time till we reached Santiago which seem almost as confusing as it did when we arrived in the dark on our first night; lack of signs caused a problem although we made good progress until we got to where we need to turn for Puerto Plate. The signing was very unclear and we made a couple of mistakes; but being daylight we soon corrected ourselves and got on the right road; it should be plain sailing from now on in!!! Back on track we good time to reach the coast we decided that it would be best to get through Puerto Plata and do a bit of birding between there and the airport; Puerto Plata was total chaos as there were building a bypass round it which seemed to be right on the edge of town. We found some mangrove around a place called Soua so we birded here for an hour or so; lots of American warblers here; it was time to head for the airport although we had enough time to get a cold drink at café overlooking the sea. As we pulled into the airport road we pulled off onto a wide track to change into our flying home cloths and get the entire luggage sorted for check in. Dropped the 4x4 off but had a bit of hassle with them finding the credit card slip which after a phone call the lad found it and returned it to me, check in was close by and we had timed it to perfection as there hardly any queue and then all the package coaches turned up so there were people everywhere. Got checked in and through passport control without any problems; headed to departure lounge and found a bit of loose change to get four drinks; Steve wandered off to get some duty free goods. The flight was on time so boarded and flight left around 19.40pm, we slept a bit during the overnight flight. 13 th March 2007: Arrived at Gatwick on time around 08.00am collected our bags and said our goodbyes to Paul who was catching a connecting flight back to Shetland; we got a taxi back to the B&B where we had parked the car for the week. Then it was all systems go back to Suffolk; it had been an excellent short birding trip and our thanks to Paul for getting it off the ground. Steve had been a bit poorly during the trip and we badgered him to go to the doctors on his return which he had arranged to do with Kathy before leaving the Dominican he had an appointment for the 14 th March 2007 and now the rest is history and he is doing really well. Draft /03/2008