GAMBIA & SENEGAL. 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Gambia & Senegal. The Ultimate Specialities Tour

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1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Gambia & Senegal GAMBIA & SENEGAL The Ultimate Specialities Tour Tuesday 12th January Tuesday 26th January 2010 (15 days) Leaders: Nik Borrow and Solomon Jallow Group Size Limit: 12 Only a few hours flying time south of Europe there is a very different world - a tropical, African world. To the north lie the vast and empty wastes of the Sahara, the formidable barrier which all Europe s summer migrants have to cross before coming to the safe haven of Senegal and Gambia (sometimes collectively referred to as Senegambia ), where a rich landscape awaits those birds that survive the desert crossing. A classic Afrotropical destination, Gambia and Senegal offer easy, enjoyable birding, good photographic opportunities and an easygoing atmosphere. Even if you are well travelled south of the Sahara, this accessible corner of the continent offers a great birding break including some exciting specialities. Gambia offers very good birding, but it is Senegal that harbours almost all the avian specialities of this part of Africa, so a tour that combines the two countries is by far the better option for the discerning birder! Our tour is unrivalled in what it produces. Straddling no less than Egyptian Plovers (Tony Disley) three faunal zones, the Sudan Savanna, the Guinea Savanna and the Forest-Savanna Mosaic (the northernmost outliers of the West African rainforests), Gambia and Senegal possess a surprisingly rich avifauna. Combine a visit to Gambia with an excursion into Senegal, home to a series of Sahel specialities that are not only absent from Gambia but rarely seen on any other birdwatching tours either, and you have an outstanding birding experience! At this season the local avifauna is further enriched by the presence of numerous winter visitors from Europe and North Africa familiar faces amidst a host of new birds. Gambia projects inland like a finger along the river that gives the country its name, extending from the pounding surf of the Atlantic to the heat and dust of the dry interior. A small Englishspeaking enclave within Francophone Senegal, Gambia has become a popular destination for winter sunseekers from Europe. The hotels, swimming pools and cocktail bars of the coastal resorts lie in stark contrast, however, to the simple village life just a few kilometres inland. Age-old tasks such as fetching and carrying water, washing and cooking continue in traditional fashion, while ancient Peugeots are pressed into service as bush-taxis for a day out at the local market. Almost completely surrounding Gambia, Senegal is a fascinating contrast. Some of the ethnic groups are shared between the nations, but the French influence is strongly to be felt, with the locals carrying home baguettes from the bakery, excellent French food and French architecture evident in the dusty towns. Northernmost Senegal, where we will be concentrating our time, is much closer to the Sahara than Gambia and the arid landscapes of the Sahel contrast greatly with the verdant scenery along the Gambia River. We start our journey at Banjul on the Gambian coast. Just a short distance from our hotel one can watch such species as Palm-nut Vulture, Senegal Thick-knee, Western Grey Plantain-eater, Blue-bellied Roller, Whitecrowned Robin-Chat and Yellow Penduline Tit. At the superb little Abuko Nature Reserve, which lies only a short distance inland, forest birds such as Violet and Green Turacos, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat and Green Hylia can be found along the trails and West African specialities include Pied-winged Swallow, Fanti Saw-wing and Greyheaded Bristlebill. At the mouth of the River Gambia, or amongst nearby mangroves, are congregations of gulls, terns and numerous herons, egrets and waders. From Banjul we head northwards into Senegal via the town of Kaolack. Our goal is the Senegal River region, on the border with Mauritania. Here we shall explore the dry country that lies to the south of the Sahara in search of Sahel specialities such as Savile s Bustard, African Collared Dove, Little Grey Woodpecker, Cricket Warbler, Sennar Penduline Tit and Sudan Golden Sparrow. At the Djoudj National Park, one of the most important wetland reserves in Africa, we will not only see extraordinary numbers of waterbirds but also the little-known River Prinia and very probably the huge Arabian Bustard. After our time in Senegal we will explore the up-river region of Gambia, travelling first to Janjangbureh. In this area we should be able to track down one of most handsome birds in Africa, the sublime Egyptian Plover. Watching these unique waders with their complex pattern of black, white, grey and peach, it is hard to imagine the evolutionary process that led to such an exquisite creation! We will also visit a colony of exquisite Red-throated Beeeaters before moving on to

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Gambia & Senegal Tendaba. Here we will explore the mangrove-lined creeks by pirogue in search of attractive White-backed Night Herons, stately Goliath Herons, colourful Blue-breasted Kingfishers and delightful African Blue Flycatchers. We shall also be looking for other interior specialities such as the grotesque Abyssinian Ground Hornbill. By the time we have to return home we will certainly have come to appreciate that this small corner of Africa offers outstanding birding only a stone s throw from Europe. Birdquest has operated tours to Gambia and Senegal since Itinerary Day 1 Morning flight from London bound for Banjul, the capital of Gambia, arriving in the afternoon. After the short journey to our hotel on the Atlantic coast, where we will spend the next four nights, we should have time for some initial exploration. Days 2-4 A wide variety of habitats can be found within easy reach of our pleasant hotel. The gardens, scrub, woodland and grassland of Gambia s coastal region attract an excellent range of species. At once the magic of Africa begins to weave its spell as Hooded Vultures sail overhead, strange Hamerkops adds to their huge nests and colourful Blue-bellied Rollers Bateleurs (Michael Hodghson) decorate the palm trees. Western Grey Plantain-eaters utter their cacophonous cries from trees that shelter parties of Green Wood-hoopoes as they scramble clumsily over the trunks while noisy Yellowcrowned Gonoleks call loudly from their hideouts in the thick thorny tangles. Birds have become amazingly tame in the hotel gardens and we may watch strange-looking Piapiacs, incredible Longtailed Glossy Starlings, smart White-crowned Robin Chats and colourful mixed flocks of Red-cheeked Cordonbleus, Red-billed Firefinches, Lavender Waxbills and Bronze Mannikins hopping around on the lawns unconcerned by passers-by. Speckled Pigeons huddle on the rooftops, Brown and Blackcap Babblers squabble noisily and the cheery song of Common Bulbuls sounds all around. It is tempting, with this plethora of birdlife available, to stay in the shady gardens, but there are different birds to be found in the surrounding dry bush country. Amongst the thorny acacias and Locust Bean Trees we will hope to find the tiny, elusive and little-known Yellow Penduline Tit, elegant Pied-winged Swallows, the dapper Senegal Batis and an array of sunbirds that could include Scarlet-chested, Beautiful, Copper, Variable, Western Violet-backed and the aptly-named Splendid. The fruiting trees provide cover for African Grey and Western Red-billed Hornbills, Vieillot s Barbet and the impressive Bearded Barbet. By imitating the call of the Pearl-spotted Owlet we may be lucky enough to attract the owl itself, which is usually accompanied in such cases by a host of enraged small birds! If we are fortunate we will also find one or two of the scarcer resident species such as Temminck s Courser, the localized White-fronted Black Chat or White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike. An excellent selection of raptors occurs in the area and as the day warms up and the thermals develop these can include Black-shouldered Kite, Yellowbilled Kite (split from Black), the unusual Palm-nut Vulture, African Harrier Hawk, Dark Chanting Goshawk, Shikra, Lizard Buzzard, Bateleur, Wahlberg s Eagle, African Hawk Eagle and Red-necked Falcon. Other species we should find in these habitats include Cattle Egret, Stone Partridge, Double-spurred Francolin, Senegal Thick-knee, African Wattled and Blackheaded Lapwings, African Green Pigeon, Red-eyed, Vinaceous, African Mourning and Laughing Doves, Senegal Parrot, Rose-ringed Parakeet, Striped Kingfisher, Little and African Palm Swifts, Mottled Spinetail, Levaillant s and Klaas s Cuckoos, Senegal Coucal, Little and Swallowtailed Bee-eaters, Abyssinian, Rufous-crowned and Broadbilled Rollers, Black Woodhoopoe, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Grey, Finespotted and Brown-backed Woodpeckers, Red-chested and Wire-tailed Swallows, Plain-backed Pipit, Yellowthroated Leaflove, African Thrush, Northern Crombec, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Senegal Eremomela, Singing, Whistling, Short-winged, Rufous and Zitting Cisticolas, Red-winged Warbler, Tawnyflanked Prinia, Northern Black Flycatcher, Yellow Whiteeye, African Golden Oriole, Yellow-billed Shrike, Northern Puffback, Black-crowned Tchagra, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike, Brubru, White Helmetshrike, Fork-tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, Purple Glossy Starling, Yellowbilled Oxpecker, Northern Grey-headed Sparrow, Bush Petronia, White-billed Buffalo Weaver, African Silverbill and Yellow-fronted Canary. Species such as Village and Little Weavers, Northern Red and Black-winged Red Bishops, and Village Indigobirds should be in their more sombre, rather sparrow-like, dress at this time of year, thus producing more of an identification challenge. Palearctic migrants include Melodious and Willow Warblers. Nearby areas of coastal mangroves and mudflats should produce Long-tailed Cormorant, Pinkbacked Pelican, Striated (or Green-backed), Black, Black-headed and Grey Herons, Western Reef, Great and Little Egrets, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Black-winged Northern White-faced Scops Owl (Nik Borrow)

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Gambia & Senegal Stilt, Pied Avocet, Spur-winged Lapwing, Kentish, Whitefronted and Grey Plovers, Bar-tailed Godwit, Whimbrel, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Wood and Common Sandpipers, Pied, Giant and Malachite Kingfishers, Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and Yellow-throated Longclaw. One of the highlights of a visit to Gambia is exploring the Abuko Nature Reserve. Abuko protects a small area of riverine forest, as well as some well-developed bush in the adjacent extension. Justly famous as one of Gambia s premier birding venues, Abuko has been protected since 1916, initially as a water-catchment area, and boasts an attractive shady lake. It lies at the northernmost extremity of the Forest- Savanna Mosaic zone and consequently attracts a high diversity of species, including some forest specialities at the edge of their range. We will explore the area by means of a series of well-marked trails. Around a pool, Black Crakes scuttle along the banks and the strange and beautiful Moho (or Oriole-Warbler) sings its strident song from the dense undergrowth. Inside the forest, Little Greenbuls chatter noisily and African and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatchers sally forth into shafts of sunlight. Amongst Abuko s most spectacular inhabitants are the turacos, African Swallow-tailed Kites (Nik Borrow) a family unique to tropical Africa. Aptly-named Violet Turacos hop conspicuously through the canopy but the sombre Green Turaco can be rather more elusive. In flight both species reveal a blaze of shocking crimson as they glide off through the treetops. Other species we should find at Abuko include Black-crowned Night Heron, Blue-spotted and Black-billed Wood-Doves, African Pied Hornbill, Buffspotted Woodpecker, Greater and Lesser Honeyguides, Fanti Saw-wing, Grey-headed Bristlebill, Green Hylia, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat, Common Wattle-eye, Collared Sunbird, Black-necked Weaver and Western Bluebill. We may also encounter one of the more elusive birds of the reserve such as Redchested Goshawk (split from African), Ahanta Francolin, White-spotted Flufftail or Redshouldered Cuckoo-shrike The pool hosts a number of Nile Crocodiles and, although mammals are not numerous, we should see Gambian Sun Squirrel, Callithrix Monkey, Western Red Colobus and Bushbuck. Day 5 Today we will head north into Senegal for an overnight stay at Kaolack. After we take the ferry across the mouth of the River Gambia, we will pause at the northern bank. Close to a ruined coastal fort, where Ospreys patrol the shoreline, we will investigate an impressive gull and tern roost where the mixed flocks of Grey-headed, Black-headed, Slender-billed and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, and Gull-billed, Caspian, Royal, Lesser Crested, Sandwich, Common and Little Terns provide an interesting identification challenge. Cape Gull (split from Kelp) has been increasing in frequency in recent years, so we shall be looking out for this vagrant species. Sanderling and Ruddy Turnstone are also likely here, while during the crossing we will, providing we are lucky, see Pomarine or Arctic Skuas. The nearby bushland lies on the boundary of the Sudan Savanna zone and, being rather dry, attracts an interesting variety of species, some of which are not often found south of the river in the Banjul area. In particular we shall look Northern Anteater Chat and Whiterumped Seedeater. Beyond the border the distinctly British overtones of Gambia give way to Francophone influences, ranging from roadside signs to newspapers and the hotel food, yet the ethnic origins of the local inhabitants are exactly the same as on the other side of the frontier. It is a classic reminder of the bizarre line-drawing that our colonialist predecessors imposed on sub-saharan Africa: a legacy that still causes many problems to this day. Our journey will skirt the Saloum Delta and we shall stop for anything of interest en route. As we near Kaolack we shall be looking out for the delicate and delightful African Swallow-tailed Kite hawking for insects over the dry bushland as well as the huge numbers of Lesser Kestrels that roost in the area. Day 6 From Kaolack we will drive northwards to St Louis for an overnight stay. As we travel northwards the huge baobab trees and well-wooded acacia savanna gradually give way to sparse thorn scrub as we enter the Sahel, the great band of drought-prone, semi-arid country along the southern edge of the inexorablyadvancing Sahara. We will keep a lookout during the journey for anything of interest, such as our first Bluenaped Mousebirds, and we can expect to see Mosque Swallows and many Chestnutbellied Starlings around the small villages of thatched huts, as well as huge, restless flocks of Sudan Golden Sparrows. If we come across the carcass of an animal by the highway we could well encounter a hissing group of vultures (although numbers are now in rapid decline). These are usually African White-backed, Rüppell s Griffon and Hooded, but quite possibly dominated by the looming figures of two or three huge Lappet-faced or some wintering Eurasian Griffon Vultures. Along the way we will stop to look for the localized Savile s Bustard. Eventually we reach the town of St Louis, the old French colonial capital of both Senegal and Mauritania, and site of the famous first bridge over the Senegal River, but now only a pale shadow of its former self in spite of some recent renovation and revitalization. Day 7 After visiting the Langue de Barbarie, a long and narrow spit near St Louis which often holds visiting Audouin s Gulls, we will head for Richard Toll for a two nights stay. As we leave behind the the lush irrigated sugar cane plantations that dominate the Senegal River valley, we will enter an extensive dry, sandy landscape that is meagrely clad with a sparse, goat- and cattlechewed flora. This afternoon we will begin our exploration of the area. Day 8 As we explore the countryside surrounding Richard Toll we will be very conscious of the unseen presence of the Sahara, for the border of the desert lies not far to the north. Early

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Gambia & Senegal in the morning the open acacia savannas and sparsely vegetated grasslands are still and pleasant, but as the sun rises higher into the sky a hot wind can start to blow from the desert until the air is hazy with dust, only quietening down again towards midafternoon. Here we shall be concentrating on looking for some very special birds that are restricted to this semidesert fringe of tropical Africa. This is the haunt of one of the most attractive Sahelian birds, the smart little Cricket (or Scaly-fronted) Warbler and we have an excellent chance of finding this charming species in this harsh landscape. We shall also be on the lookout for two other specialities, the restricted range Little Grey Woodpecker and the tiny Sennar Penduline Tit. Both can be found feeding quietly in the small acacias that dot the area. Smart Black Scrub Robins with their long tails often cocked up right over their heads are distinctive and showy birds of this habitat and we shall also hope to find Common Kestrel, Common Quail, Small Buttonquail, Cream-coloured Courser, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, African Collared Dove, the pretty little Namaqua Dove, Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Wryneck, Black-crowned and Arabian Bustard (Nik Borrow) Chestnut-backed Sparrow- Larks, Singing Bush Lark, Crested Lark, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Southern Grey Shrike, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Pygmy Sunbird and Speckle-fronted Weaver. Palearctic migrants can be conspicuous and are likely to include Black Kite, Barn Swallow, Common House Martin, Tree Pipit, Common Redstart, Northern and Blackeared Wheatears, Western Olivaceous, Western Bonelli s, Western Orphean and Subalpine Warblers, Common Chiffchaff and Woodchat Shrike. Day 9 After spending a last morning in the dry savanna and grassland habitat we will drive to the Djoudj National Park, situated right on the border with Mauritania, for a two nights stay. We will arrive in time for some initial exploration. Day 10 The lower reaches of the mighty Senegal River are subject to seasonal flooding which augments the few perennial marshlands in the area. At this season the floodwaters will be receding and enormous numbers of winter visitors from the Western Palearctic join the numerous tropical African waterbirds. In good years the lagoons and watercourses of the Djoudj National Park are literally black with wildfowl, so that when the vast flocks take to the air the sight is indescribable. The most abundant are White-faced Whistling Duck, Northern Pintail and Garganey, but Fulvous Whistling Duck and Northern Shoveler are also very numerous. Further interest is provided by small numbers of Egyptian and Spur-winged Geese. On the shallow, saline lagoons numerous Greater Flamingos gather to feed and wandering Lesser Flamingos sometimes join them. However, the greatest spectacle of the Djoudj is provided by the hundreds of Great White Pelicans that regularly concentrate into large flocks to feed on the abundant fish. As the birds at the front of the flotilla dip their great pouched bills into the water dozens of others are jostling up from behind whilst still more plunge down from the skies to join the excited gathering. In the heat of the day squadrons soar high above the flat landscape, or even form up in packed masses on the roads next to the lagoons, creating a novel kind of traffic obstacle! At this time of year the birds will be busy breeding, with well-grown young to feed, and we will make a visit by boat to the breeding colony where the sights, sounds and smells make for a totally unforgettable experience! Great numbers of cormorants, herons, egrets, waders, gulls, terns and other waterbirds add to the avian riches of one of the most important wetlands in Africa. Of these, species we are not likely to have seen before include White-breasted Cormorant (split from Great), African Darter, Little Bittern, Purple and Squacco Herons, Glossy and Sacred Ibises, Eurasian and African Spoonbills, Black and Yellow-billed Storks, Knob-billed Duck, African Fish Eagle, African Swamphen (split from Purple), Common Moorhen, the superb Black Crowned Crane, African Jacana, Greater Painted-snipe, Collared Pratincole, Little Ringed, Common Ringed and Kittlitz s Plovers, Green, Marsh and Curlew Sandpipers, Little Stint, Dunlin, Ruff, Blacktailed Godwit, White-winged and Whiskered Terns, African Stonechat, Greater Swamp Warbler and Yellow-backed Weaver. Although waterbirds dominate the area, there are other species of interest in the dry bush country and riverine thickets nearby. The huge and endangered Arabian Bustard, although very shy, is still comparatively easy to see in the reserve whilst the river channels are the haunt of the little-known and only recently described River Prinia. Other birds we may well encounter include Montagu s and Western Marsh Harriers, Sand Martin, Yellow and White Wagtails, Tawny Pipit, African Scrub Robin (split from Rufous-tailed), Whinchat, Sedge and European Reed Warblers, Winding Cisticola, Black-faced Quailfinch, Zebra Waxbill and Red-billed Quelea. We should also be able to find some roosting Long-tailed Nightjars, marvelling at the disproportionately elongated tails of the males. Common Warthogs are frequently encountered in the reserve and we should see Common Jackals trotting across the sandy flats. Day 11 Today we will head back to Kaolack for an overnight stay. We will have a chance to catch up on any birds that we may have missed on the outward journey. Day 12 We shall leave Kaolack this morning and head back towards Gambia for an overnight stay at Janjangbureh. As we approach the Gambia River huge mango and kapok (or silk-cotton) trees can be seen around the villages of thatched huts and the air becomes noticeably warmer and more humid. As we cross the various creeks or bolons we shall be looking

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Description: Gambia & Senegal out for the strikingly-plumaged Egyptian Plover. Although the birds are not quite so common in Gambia at this time of year, as they follow the retreating waters into the interior, we should be able to locate a few and hopefully obtain excellent views of this elegant species running along the sand banks or skimming low across the water. We should arrive at Janjangbureh in time for some initial exploration. After dark we may well be able to track down the diminutive African Scops Owl by listening for its tremulous purr and we also have a chance of finding Northern White-faced Owl and the huge Verreaux s Eagle- Owl. Day 13 Janjangbureh (formerly Georgetown) is situated on an island amidst the River Gambia and this small settlement certainly feels far from anywhere. During our stay in this area we shall explore both dry bush country and some small wetland areas that are characteristic habitats of eastern Gambia. Here we are a long way from the moderating influences of the ocean. The air is hotter and less humid, and the landscape drier, with a quite different avifauna from the coastal fringe. Along the Long-crested Eagle (Nik Borrow) river itself we should find the unassuming Swamp Flycatcher and we shall keep a lookout for the secretive Western Banded Snake Eagle and the localized Adamawa Turtle Dove, the latter a species first found in Gambia by Birdquest in The highlight of this area will undoubtedly be a visit to a colony of intensely coloured Red-throated Bee-eaters, where these busy birds will amaze us as they brighten up the surroundings with their jewel-like colours. A small pool of water at the colony usually attracts other birds as well and we will hope to see Red-rumped Swallow (sometimes split as West African Swallow), Cut-throat Finch, Exclamatory Paradise Whydah (although if the birds are out of plumage they are impossible to separate from Sahel Paradise Whydah) and its host species the Redwinged Pytilia. Other species we may well find include Marabou Stork, Tawny Eagle, Gabar Goshawk, Grey Kestrel, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, European Turtle Dove and Four-banded Sandgrouse. Later we will head west to Tendaba where we will spend two nights. Day 14 The pleasantly eccentric Tendaba Camp is situated on the south bank of the River Gambia, still nearly two kilometres wide at this point even though the sea is over 100 kilometres away. With a waterfront location, and cooled by the breeze off the river, it is a good place to unwind before the journey home. As the sun sinks in the west one can sit out on the pier just drinking in the atmosphere of Africa. The surrounding area is good for birds and amongst the nearby woodland, scrub and marshy grassland we may find Longcrested Eagle, African Hobby, Lanner Falcon, Bruce s Green Pigeon, Brown-necked Parrot, White-throated Bee-eater, the grotesque but fascinating Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Cardinal Woodpecker and Black-rumped Waxbill. A trip by motorized pirogue on the river should produce superb views of a selection of waterbirds including the huge Goliath Heron and Woollynecked Stork and if we are lucky the elusive Whitebacked Night Heron. The tall riverside mangroves harbour several interesting species and as we travel along the quiet, shady creeks we should find African Blue Flycatcher, Brown Sunbird and a series of Blue-breasted Kingfishers. The shy and elusive African Finfoot occurs in the area, but is only occasionally observed. In the dry woodlands near Kiang West National Park we will look for Grasshopper Buzzard, Beaudouin s and Brown Snake Eagles, Bronzetailed Glossy and Lesser Blue-eared Starlings, and Vitelline Masked Weaver. With a little luck we will find one of the more uncommon species of the area such as White-shouldered Black Tit, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow Weaver, Black-faced Firefinch or Brown-rumped Bunting. A night drive in the area could produce Bronze-winged Courser or Standard-winged Nightjar. Day 15 After breakfast at Tendaba our African experience draws to a close and we will return to Banjul in time for a late afternoon flight bound for London, arriving in the evening. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels are mostly of normal Birdquest standard. The lodges at Janjangbureh and Tendaba are fairly simple but quite comfortable and all rooms have private bathrooms. Road transport is by small coach and roads are variable in quality, being poor in Gambia but reasonably good in Senegal. Walking: The walking effort is easy almost throughout, with just one or two longer walks. Climate: Generally hot and dry. It is sometimes humid on the coast. Rain is unlikely at this season. Bird Photography: Opportunities are quite good. Tour Price: 2290, 2702, $3779 London/London (or 1890, 2230, $3119 Banjul/ Banjul). Price includes all transportation (including all flights), all accommodations, all meals, bottled water, some drinks, all excursions, all entrance fees, all tips for local drivers/guides and for accommodations/restaurants, leader services. Single Room Supplement: 196, 231, $323. Deposit: 300, 354, $495. If booking more than 12 months before departure, the initial deposit is only 150, 177, $248.