Borneo A Clouded Leopard Quest!

Transcription

1 Borneo A Clouded Leopard Quest! Naturetrek 28 April 9 May 2015 Report compiled by Nick Acheson Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: info@naturetrek.co.uk W:

2 Tour Participants: Nick Acheson Naturetrek Tour Leader Hazwan Suban Sepilok / Sukau leader And eight clients Introduction Our second Borneo Clouded Leopard Quest was a remarkable experience. We didn t see the Sunda Clouded Leopard, so in this sense the tour might be judged a failure. However, to judge this spectacular tour a failure would be to miss the point entirely. While we could not find a Sunda Clouded Leopard, in trying - extremely hard - we had a rare, privileged, and intense view of the fabulous night wildlife of Borneo s rainforest. To reflect an unusual tour, I shall write an unusual report. It would be meaningless to write a day-by-day (or rather night-by-night) account of our activities as on so many of our days in Sabah we ostensibly did the same things. Rather, in addition to a full list of the species we saw, I shall talk, species by species, through some of the highlights of our fantastic nocturnal exploration of the forests of Sukau and Tabin. Day 1 Tuesday 28th April In flight to Borneo Day 2-4 Wednesday 29th April Friday 1st May The first leg of our tour we spent in Sepilok, near the town of Sandakan in eastern Sabah. Sepilok is celebrated for its Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre, which we visited on our first full day, seeing both wild wildlife in the forest and Orang-utans in the process of being released into their natural environment. Next door we visited the new Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre where more than thirty Sun Bears, rescued from illegal trade, are housed in large forest enclosures and the first rehabilitated animals are soon to be released to the forest. Here we were privileged to meet the centre s founder and CEO, Wong Siew Te, and hear from him about the ecology of wild Sun Bears (and Sunda Clouded Leopards) in Borneo. On the afternoon of the 1st we went, via lunch in Sandakan, upriver on the Kinabatangan to our splendid lodge. Our guide for both the Sepilok and Kinabatangan sections of the tour was the hugely knowledgeable Hazwan. Day 4-6 Friday 1st Sunday 3rd May From our base at Sukau Rainforest Lodge we explored, by day and night, the banks and creeks of the Kinabatangan River for two days by boat. Here, by day, we had superb encounters with Proboscis Monkeys, Silvered Langurs, Long-tailed Macaques and hornbills, including Rhinoceros, Wrinkled and Bushy-crested. By night we did the same, armed with lamps, and saw many charismatic animals including Saltwater Crocodile, Reticulated Python, Flat-headed Cat and roosting Blue-eared Kingfishers. Naturetrek July 15 1

3 Day 6-12 Friday 1st Saturday 9th May Passing via Gomantong Caves (bat and swiftlet central!) on our way from the Kinabatangan, we spent the next six days (more accurately, the next six nights) exploring the forests of Tabin Wildlife Reserve, from our base at the Resort of the same name. There were so many highlights here, and I shall touch on them in the species accounts, that it would be impossible to do them justice. For six nights we went out three times a night: a dusk drive lasting around two hours, a post-dinner drive of the same duration and a pre-and-post-dawn drive generally lasting three hours. These drives, in the brilliant hands (and braking feet, lamping wrists, spotting eyes and explaining tongues) of Mohammad and Jusrin, were a complete delight and were laden with great wildlife. They were even laden with cats - Leopard Cats every night - but not with the cat we most dearly sought, the Sunda Clouded Leopard. In addition to cats, we saw innumerable Bearded Pigs, Malay Civets, Buffy Fish-Owls and Common Palm Civets and only slightly more numerable Small-toothed Palm Civets. Occasional highlights included Colugo, Western Tarsier, Bornean Slow Loris, Sunda Frogmouth, Banded Palm Civet and Yellow Muntjac. All in all, a splendid romp through the night forests of Borneo. Thanks Tremendous thanks are due to everyone who helped us along the way and tolerated our weird obsession with night wildlife. The staff of Sepilok Jungle Resort were almost embarrassingly welcoming and helpful as were the good people of Sukau Rainforest Lodge. In both, Hazwan was a quietly efficient and extremely knowledgeable host. Likewise, the people of Tabin Wildlife Resort could not have been more helpful or accommodating. First among them, of course, were Mohammad and Jusrin, the stars of the show, without whom our night safaris would have been impossible. With them they were quite delightful. Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! 2 Naturetrek

4 Selected species highlights (for the full list see the table below) Mammals Malaysian Colugo Cynocephalus variegatus: We saw this bizarre, fascinating creature three times: a roosting animal on two consecutive days in forest behind Sukau Rainforest Lodge and one by night at the turn-around point on the core road in Tabin. Bornean Slow Loris Nycticebus menagensis: We had two great encounters with this lovely animal. On the second, Jusrin made great efforts to get us into the forest to see it closer but by the time we reached the spot it had scarpered. Western Tarsier Cephalopachus bancanus: We were lucky to see two tarsiers. The first was a struggle, high in dense vegetation above us, but the second gave us an excellent opportunity to admire this tiny primate. Silvered Langur Trachypithecus cristatus: This is the common langur along the Kinabatangan and we saw several families well. One family included a female of the rarer apricot form. Proboscis Monkey Nasalis larvatus: Likewise we saw many families of these superb endemic primates along the Kinabatangan. Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis: We saw Long-tailed Macaques on six days: most numerously along the Kinabatangan, by day and roosting at night, but also at Tabin. Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina: We first saw Pig-tails at the Orang-utan feeding station at Sepilok but they were also regulars at Tabin. East Bornean Grey Gibbon Hylobates funereus: We heard these gorgeous primates at Sepilok and saw them every day in Tabin, including a family which was almost always right around the lodge. Bornean Orang-utan Pongo pygmaeus: Despite close encounters with rehabilitated animals around Sepilok the only wholly wild individuals we saw were at Gomantong. Cream-coloured Giant Squirrel Ratufa affinis: All of our sightings of this splendid squirrel were in Tabin where one occasionally came to feed from a tree right by the main buildings. Prevost s Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii pluto: This lustrous animal was the default squirrel everywhere we went in East Sabah. Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus: This species was very common around Sepilok and less so in Tabin. Ear-spot Squirrel Callosciurus adamsi: Very similar to the last species, and requiring a good view to clinch identification, this squirrel was common along the entrance road to Sepilok. Naturetrek July 15 3

5 Plain Pygmy Squirrel Exilisciurus exilis: Let s all pause for a moment to say ooooh over the ridiculous cuteness and diminutiveness of this tiny squirrel. Now that s over I can report that we saw one in the forest on our full day in Sepilok and several around the Resort in Tabin. Red Giant Flying-Squirrel Petaurista petaurista: The commonest of the flying-squirrels, we saw this splendid animal first on our night walk in Sepilok and repeatedly on drives in Tabin. Black Flying-Squirrel Aeromys tephromelas: This gorgeous animal was seen fairly often on night drives in Tabin, both in the forest and along the entrance road. Thomas Flying-Squirrel Aeromys thomasi: This was the scarcest flying-squirrel, seen only on two dates in Tabin and only in secondary forest. Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula: Seen by some of you near the lodge, the whole group saw a family of these lithe mustelids descending from a tree on our first night drive in Tabin. Smooth-coated Otter Lutra sumatrana: Despite the inaccuracies of the published literature and the received wisdom of locals, the large otters at Tabin are Smooth-coated. We saw them here on three days. Small-clawed Otter Aonyx cinereus: These lovely animals were seen on one day at Tabin. Malay Civet Viverra tangalunga: This very beautiful animal was seen commonly at Tabin, especially on the entrance road. The second commonest Viverrid after Common Palm Civet. Small-toothed Palm Civet Arctogalidia trivirgata: We saw groups in fruiting trees at Tabin. Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus: By far the commonest civet we saw, found on every drive along the entrance road at Tabin, often in numbers. Beautiful. Leopard Cat Prionailurus bengalensis: This startlingly beautiful small cat was amazingly common and easy to see in Tabin, especially along the entrance road. We had previously seen one individual briefly in elephant grass along the Kinabatangan. Flat-headed Cat Prionailurus planiceps: We were delighted to see an individual of this rare species on the muddy edge of the Kinabatangan. Bearded Pig Sus barbatus: This was a common animal on our night drives in Tabin and was also occasionally seen in daylight. Yellow Muntjac Muntiacus atherodes: We had two sightings of this Bornean endemic in Tabin, the first of one and the second, on our last drive, of two together. 4 Naturetrek

6 Reptiles Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus: These magnificent animals were seen several times along the Kinabatangan and in its creeks and oxbows. Water Monitor Varanus salvator: This was the commonest large reptile on our tour, seen under the jetty in Sandakan, along the Kinabatangan and sleeping lengthways along branches in Tabin. Reticulated Python Broghammerus reticulatus: We saw a Reticulated Python in a tree on an evening cruise from Sukau. Wagler s Pit Viper Tropidolaemus wagleri: We saw this brilliant green snake on night walks in Sepilok and Tabin. Birds Storm s Stork Ciconia stormi: This much-sought bird was seen at Gomantong, along the Kinabatangan and in Tabin. Bornean Falconet Microhierax latifrons: What a superb little bird! We saw it just once in Tabin. Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus: We met a nest-building pair in an emergent tree on the bank of the Kinabatangan and saw a similar pair in Tabin. White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster: In the lower stretches of the Kinabatangan we saw this magnificent bird. Lesser Fish Eagle Haliaeetus humilis: Likewise we saw this handsome species as we entered the Kinabatangan from Sandakan. Wallace s Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nanus: Our first encounter with this neat bird was at the Sukau Rainforest Lodge where we found a pair with its nest. Subsequently we saw several around Tabin. Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot Loriculus galgulus: What s not to love about Blue-crowned Hanging- Parrots? Well, you could start with their infuriating habit of pinging past at high speed in the clouds, only betraying their presence with their whistling calls. We saw this little bird several times around Sepilok and Tabin. Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda: We saw fly-bys several time around Sepilok and Tabin, with just a few views of perched birds. Lovely all the same. Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius: Fantastic! We saw two of these wonderful little owls on a night drive along the entrance road at Tabin. Buffy Fish Owl Ketupa ketupu: Our constant companion by night along the Kinabatangan and on the entrance road at Tabin. Amazingly common and obliging. Naturetrek July 15 5

7 Sunda Frogmouth Batrachostomus cornutus: After some research and consultation with expert locals our frogmouth at Tabin was identified as this species. Edible-nest Swift Aerodramus fuciphagus: Of the many swiftlets we saw, the only identifiable individuals (with the exception of Glossy Swiftlets) were this species and Black-nest at their nests at Gomantong. Silver-rumped Needletail Rhapidura leucopygialis: Common, especially over the lake at Sepilok. Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis: Commonly seen over the lake at Sepilok. Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba: This striking bird was seen once at Tabin. Cinnamon-rumped Trogon Harpactes orrhophaeus: Likewise, this lovely bird was seen once at Tabin. Blue-banded Kingfisher Alcedo euryzona: A pair of these subtly handsome birds was usually present along the river at Tabin. Often seen while looking for otters. Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting: By far the commonest kingfisher we saw near water. Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis: Just wow! Seen on two days around Sepilok. Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus: We saw this subtly handsome, social hornbill on numerous days along the Kinabatangan and in Tabin. Black Hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus: Along with its congener the Oriental Pied Hornbill, this was the commonest hornbill on the tour. Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros: This stupendous beast was frequently seen on the Kinabatangan and at Tabin. Fantastic! White-crowned Hornbill Berenicornis comatus: Also a complete wow bird. We saw them at the lodge in Tabin on several occasions. Wrinkled Hornbill Aceros corrugatus: This multicoloured hornbill was seen well beside the Kinabatangan. Black-and-Red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos: Happily this dramatically beautiful bird is common and we saw it well along the Kinabatangan. Black-and-Yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus: Equally lovely, we saw this bird both on the Kinabatangan and at Tabin. Malaysian Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: One of the commonest forest birds of the tour. No less lovely for it. 6 Naturetrek

8 Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes simplex: This was the commonest sunbird around Sepilok, though here we also saw several Crimson. Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma: The commonest flowerpecker on our tour, though Scarlet-backed was also common around Sepilok. Dusky Munia Lonchura fusca: Of two species of munia seen on the tour, this endemic was seen relatively less than the beautiful Chestnut. Malaysian Blue Flycatcher Cynornis turcosus: This beautiful little bird was the only blue flycatcher we saw, but we met it both in Sukau and in Tabin. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: By far the commonest bulbul in gardens and disturbed forest around Sepilok. Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus: The default bulbul in forest, in feeding flocks which commonly also contained Spectacled and Buff-vented. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Sky plankton everywhere. Naturetrek July 15 7

9 Species Lists Mammals ( = recorded but not counted; h = heard only; E = Endemic; I = Introduced) April/May Common name Scientific name Moonrat Echinosorex gymnurus 2 Small Short-nosed Fruit Bat Cyanopterus minutus 3 Malaysian Colugo Cyanocephalus variegatus 4 Bornean Slow Loris Nycticebus menagensis (coucang) 5 Western Tarsier Cephalopachus bancanus 6 Hose s (Sabah Grizzled) Langur E Presbytis rubicunda 7 Silvered Langur Trachypithecus cristatus 8 Proboscis Monkey E Nasalis larvatus 9 Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis 10 Sunda Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina 11 East Bornean Grey Gibbon E Hylobates funereus h h h 12 Bornean Orangutan E Pongo pygmaeus 13 Giant Squirrel Ratufa affinis 14 Prevost's Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii pluto 15 Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus 16 Ear-spot Squirrel E Callosciurus adamsi 17 Plain Pygmy Squirrel E Exilisciurus exilis 18 Red Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista petaurista 19 Thomas's Flying Squirrel E Aeromys thomasi 20 Yellow-throated Marten Martes flavigula 21 Smooth (Smooth-coated) Otter Lutrogale perspicillata 22 Oriental Small-clawed Otter Aonyx cinereus 23 Malay Civet Viverra tangalunga 24 Small-toothed Palm Civet Arctogalidia trivirgata 25 Common Palm Civet Paradoxurus hermaphroditus 26 Banded Palm Civet Hemigalus derbyanus 27 Flat-headed Cat Prionailurus planiceps 28 Leopard Cat Prionailurus bengalensis 29 Bearded Pig Sus barbatus Naturetrek July 15 1

10 April/May Common name Scientific name Lesser Mouse-Deer Tragulus kanchil 31 Bornean Yellow Muntjac Muntiacus atherodes Reptiles 1 Saltwater Crocodile Crocodylus porosus 2 Crested Green Lizard Bronchocela cristatella 3 Flying Lizard Draco sp. 4 Asian House Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus 5 Red-throated Skink Mabuya rugifera 6 Water Monitor Varanus salvator 7 Reticulated Python Broghammerus reticulatus 8 Wagler s Pit Viper Tropidolaemus wagleri 9 Red-sided Keelback Xenochropis trianguligerus 10 Twin-barred Tree Snake Chrysopelea pelia 11 Mangrove Snake Boiga dendrophila Birds 1 Great Argus Argusianus argus 2 Red Junglefowl I Gallus gallus h 3 Storm's Stork Ciconia stormi 4 Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus 5 Little (Striated) Heron Butorides striata 6 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 7 Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus 8 Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana 9 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 10 Great Egret Ardea alba 11 Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia 12 Little Egret Egretta garzetta 13 Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster 14 White-fronted (Bornean) Falconet E Microhierax latifrons 15 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus 2 Naturetrek

11 April/May Common name Scientific name Bat Hawk Macheiramphus alcinus 17 Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus 18 White-bellied Sea Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster 19 Lesser Fish Eagle Haliaeetus humilis 20 Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela 21 Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus 22 Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis 23 Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus cirrhatus 24 Wallace's Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nanus 25 Rufous-bellied Eagle Lophotriorchis kienerii 26 White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus 27 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos 28 Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida 29 Spotted Dove Spilopelia chinensis 30 Zebra Dove I Geopelia striata 31 Pink-necked Green Pigeon Treron vernans 32 Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea 33 Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot Loriculus galgulus 34 Long-tailed Parakeet Psittacula longicauda 35 Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus h 36 Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus h 37 Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris 38 Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis h 39 Oriental Bay Owl Phodilus badius 40 Barred Eagle-Owl Bubo sumatranus 41 Buffy Fish Owl Ketupa ketupu 42 Sunda Frogmouth Batrachostomus cornutus 43 Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus 44 Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta 45 Black-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus maximus 46 Edible-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus 47 Silver-rumped Spinetail Rhaphidura leucopygialis Naturetrek July 15 3

12 April/May Common name Scientific name Grey-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis 49 Red-naped Trogon Harpactes kasumba 50 Oriental Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis 51 Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis 52 Collared Kingfisher Todiramphus chloris h 53 Rufous-backed (Oriental Dwarf) Kingfisher Ceyx erithaca 54 Blue-banded Kingfisher Alcedo euryzona 55 Blue-eared Kingfisher Alcedo meninting 56 Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis 57 Bushy-crested Hornbill Anorrhinus galeritus 58 Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris 59 Black Hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus 60 Rhinoceros Hornbill Buceros rhinoceros h h 61 Helmeted Hornbill Rhinoplax vigil 62 White-crowned Hornbill Berenicornis comatus 63 Wrinkled Hornbill Aceros corrugatus 64 Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis h h 65 White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis 66 Olive-backed Woodpecker Dinopium rafflesii 67 Orange-backed Woodpecker Reinwardtipicus validus 68 Buff-necked Woodpecker Meiglyptes tukki 69 Black-and-red Broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos 70 Black-and-yellow Broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus 71 White-breasted Woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus 72 Malaysian Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica 73 Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi 74 Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus 75 Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca 76 Brown-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis 77 Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja 78 Temminck's Sunbird Aethopyga temminckii 79 Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra 4 Naturetrek

13 April/May Common name Scientific name Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma 81 Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum 82 Lesser Green Leafbird Chloropsis cyanopogon 83 Dusky Munia E Lonchura fuscans 84 Chestnut Munia Lonchura atricapilla 85 Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 86 Javan Myna I Acridotheres javanicus 87 Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa h h h 88 Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis 89 Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis 90 White-crowned Shama E Copsychus stricklandii 91 White-crowned Forktail Enicurus leschebnaulti 92 Malaysian Blue Flycatcher Cyornis turcosus 93 Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier 94 Asian Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus 95 Spectacled Bulbul Pycnonotus erythropthalmos 96 Yellow-bellied Bulbul Alophoixus phaeocephalus 97 House (Pacific) Swallow Hirundo tahitica 98 Bold-striped Tit-Babbler Macronus bornensis h h 99 White-chested Babbler Trichastoma rostratum 100 Ashy (Red-headed) Tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps 101 Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris Naturetrek July 15 5