BULGARIA TOUR REPORT

Transcription

1 BULGARIA MAY 2010 TOUR REPORT LEADERS: DEREK SCOTT and LYUBO PROFIROV Once again, the Birdquest tour to Bulgaria was a great success, thanks to the expert knowledge and good humour of our local leader, Lyubo Profirov, the patience and consideration of our amiable driver Evghani and the friendliness of the Bulgarian people in general. The weather was unusually cold for the first few days, with a lot of cloud, some heavy showers and even some early morning mist, but things began to warm up nicely once we reached the coast and the last couple of days were quite hot. The birding was superb, and although the main spring migration was already over, we recorded an impressive total of 210 species, including all of the south-east European specialities that we could reasonably expect, namely Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian Pelican, Levant Sparrowhawk, Chukar, Syrian Woodpecker, Isabelline Wheatear, Pied Wheatear, Paddyfield Warbler, Olive-tree Warbler, Semicollared Flycatcher, Sombre Tit, Masked Shrike and Rosy Starling. Some of the other highlights included a wonderful male Wallcreeper in Trigrad Gorge, over 70 vultures of three species at the feeding station near Studen Kladenets, an adult female Imperial Eagle at the nest and extraordinary views of a European Nightjar in the eastern Rhodope, an adult White-tailed Eagle and a loose party of 43 Red-footed Falcons in the wetlands around Burgas, superb views of a Middle Spotted Woodpecker in Goritsa Forest, a Eurasian Penduline Tit working on its elaborate nest at Lake Srebarna and two male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrushes on our final morning on Mt Vitosha. Just a couple of days before we were to fly out to Bulgaria, it seemed that we might not be able to go there at all, as the ash cloud from the irrupting volcano in Iceland was threatening to close the skies above Heathrow, and British Airways cabin crew were threatening to go on strike. But luck was on our side: the ash cloud moved off much faster than had been anticipated, and the BA strike was declared illegal less than 24 hours before we were due to depart. Our morning flight to Sofia arrived more or less on time, and by mid-afternoon we were heading east along the motorway towards Plovdiv and seeing our first White Storks, European Bee-eaters and Black-headed Buntings. Our birding began in earnest in a gorge in the wooded hills south of Asenovgrad, where we found our first Alpine Swifts, Eurasian Crag Martins and Red-rumped Swallows, a White-throated Dipper and several Black Redstarts. We finally arrived at our pleasant little hotel at Pamporovo, high in the Rhodope Mountains, just in time for dinner. 1 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

2 A short walk in the spruce forest near the hotel before breakfast the next morning produced two Firecrests, a pair of Crested Tits, a female Red-backed Shrike and a Spotted Nutcracker, as well as several more widespread species such as Dunnock, Mistle Thrush, Goldcrest, Coal Tit, Eurasian Jay and Eurasian Bullfinch. A Black Woodpecker called several times from the forest, but sadly refused to show itself. After breakfast, we set off on the 50 km drive to Trigrad Gorge, deep in the mountains near the Greek border. Almost immediately, we came to a stop to admire a fine male Ring Ouzel feeding in a car park in Pamporovo, and then a little later we stopped at a small cliff overhanging the road and had superb views of several Alpine Swifts that were nesting only feet above the traffic. Here also we found our first male Red-backed Shrikes, while a European Serin flew by. Further up the valley, we stopped to check out a large raptor and to our surprise discovered that it was a Eurasian Black Vulture. According to Lyubo, this was the first sighting of a Black Vulture in this area for at least 12 years! Trigrad Gorge is a well-known locality for the elusive Wallcreeper, so as soon as we arrived, we positioned ourselves near the cliff where the birds were known to be nesting and peered around expectantly. Unfortunately, the Wallcreepers were being particularly elusive today. A couple of us had very brief views of a bird moving rapidly through the gorge on two occasions, but that was our only success in the first hour and a half. We took a break for lunch at a nearby restaurant where the speciality was trout, and here we found another European Serin, but we could not linger as we had a long drive ahead of us, and we still had to find that Wallcreeper. As we were returning to the nest-site, one of us had another tantalizing glimpse of a Wallcreeper flying away, and it was not until we were preparing to leave that the bird reappeared. This time, to everyone s relief, the bird stayed around and performed beautifully for us, foraging methodically along the cliff face just above the road and giving exceptional views. Well pleased, we settled down to the long drive through the mountains to Studen Kladenets in the eastern Rhodope. A short stop at a bridge over the Arda River east of Smolyan produced a Rock Bunting, while a quick look from the bridge in Kardzali produced a Little Ringed Plover and two Black Terns. Soon after leaving Kardzali, we made a short detour to see our first Isabelline Wheatears, and later we stopped to look at a small colony of Spanish Sparrows in the base of a White Stork s nest. A Black Stork was spotted at a small dam by the roadside, and as we were nearing our destination, we saw our first of several Little Owls sitting on a roof-top. By the time we finally arrived at our very pleasant hotel by the Arda River, it was definitely time for dinner. Next morning before breakfast we went for a short walk near our hotel and found several Eurasian Hoopoes, a pair of Sombre Tits and an obliging Hawfinch. A Common Nightingale gave excellent views in response to playback, and a Peregrine Falcon was spotted way up on a ridge-top. After breakfast, we proceeded first to Studen Kladenets dam, where we had great views of a pair of Eastern Black-eared Wheatears, a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes, another pair of Sombre Tits and a couple of Cirl Buntings. There were several Black Storks soaring over the valley and, somewhat surprisingly, three Dalmatian Pelicans, while nearby we found our first Lesser Grey Shrike and more Isabelline Wheatears. Taking a small side road up into the hills, we eventually came to the lookout for the famous vulture feeding station. Having made ourselves comfortable on the top of a hillock with a commanding view of the feeding station, we spent the next hour enjoying the wonderful spectacle of vultures squabbling over a carcass. Eurasian Griffon Vultures were much the most numerous we counted over 60 at one time but there were also six or seven Egyptian Vultures, and after we had been there about half an hour, a huge Eurasian Black Vulture flew in and took centre stage. Other scavengers attracted to the free food included a couple of Black Kites, several Common Ravens and three Red Foxes. We moved a little way down the hill for our picnic lunch, and here amongst the bushes we found a nice assortment of warblers, including Sardinian, Eastern Orphean and Barred, as well as our first Woodchat Shrike. After a pleasant ice cream and coffee break at a little cafe in the nearby village, we headed down into the Krumovitsa Valley in search of Levant Sparrowhawk. There were plenty of birds about, including a Short-toed Eagle, a very obliging European Roller, several Eastern Olivaceous Warblers and a few Eurasian Golden Orioles, but we had to wait around for some time before a female Levant Sparrowhawk put in a brief appearance as it flew across the valley and disappeared into the trees. On the way back, we tried a small patch of scrubby woodland near 2 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

3 Studen Kladenets village, and here we were delighted to find a male Masked Shrike our fourth shrike of the day. The local villager who provides food for the vultures then invited us into his home to sample a local speciality, a delicious yoghurt drink that was much enjoyed by all. Later we stopped in the village to check a Pallid Swift colony, but the birds had recently deserted the site because of construction work and the only swifts we could find were Common Swifts. As we drove back to our hotel, we heard a Common Quail calling in a wheat field and had brief views of it as it flew across the road in response to playback. The next day was essentially a day of travel, as we drove down through the eastern Rhodope Mountains and on to the Black Sea coast, but we had plenty of time for birding stops. Our first was on a shrub-covered hillside where we found a Subalpine Warbler in song along with several Common Whitethroats. As we were approaching Madzharovo, we stopped to look at a Western Rock Nuthatch at its nest and in the same area found a Syrian Woodpecker, two more Subalpine Warblers, an Ortolan Bunting and a Red Deer. A short walk inside the old volcanic crater at Madzharovo was very rewarding, producing great views of a Chukar and two Rock Buntings, as well as more Egyptian and Griffon Vultures, another Short-toed Eagle, a pair of Long-legged Buzzards, our first Booted Eagle, two young Peregrine Falcons, more Blue Rock Thrushes and another pair of Sombre Tits. Soon after leaving here, we had unbelievable views of a European Nightjar sitting in full view on a log by the roadside, thanks to some remarkable spotting by Chris from the back of the bus, and then a bit farther along, we stopped in an area of open woodland to look for Olive-tree Warblers. A pair of Masked Shrikes gave prolonged views in the scopes and we soon heard an Olive-tree Warbler, but the bird refused to cooperate and gave only fleeting glimpses. Continuing on through Topolovgrad, we eventually came to our lunch stop only a few hundred metres from the nest of an Imperial Eagle. The adult female appeared overhead as we were eating our lunch, and soon after we were watching her at the nest through the scopes. An immature Imperial Eagle and two Lesser Spotted Eagles appeared in the distance, and a few kilometres farther down the road we had excellent views of another adult Imperial Eagle. Soon after, a pair of Montagu s Harriers was spotted from the bus, bringing our raptor total for the day to 13 species. Continuing on eastwards, we eventually arrived at an excellent patch of oak woodland where, after a little perseverance, we finally had great views of a pair of Olive-tree Warblers. From here it was only a short drive to Burgas and Pomorie on the Black Sea coast. As we still had some time in hand, we made a short stop at an observation hide overlooking the saline lagoons near Burgas and quickly added an assortment of waterbirds to our list including Squacco Heron, Eurasian Spoonbill, Pied Avocet and Mediterranean Gull. Our full day in the Pomorie and Burgas areas was a day of wetlands and waterbirds. We began with a short stroll to the nearby saline lagoon where there was a large breeding colony of Sandwich and Common Terns, several noisy pairs of Little Terns, a pair of Kentish Plovers, a lone Ruddy Turnstone and a Tawny Pipit. Our first stop after breakfast was at Lake Vaya on the outskirts of Burgas. Here we found about 60 Great White Pelicans and 25 Dalmatian Pelicans, along with lots of Great Crested Grebes, a Little Bittern, a few Black-crowned Night-Herons, a Purple Heron, a few Gadwall and Garganey, a couple of North Shoveler and some noisy Great Reed Warblers. At a quiet backwater of Lake Mantra we had much better views of Dalmatian Pelicans and found our first Ferruginous Ducks, a couple of Western Marsh Harriers and two Black Terns. A quick stop at the edge of the lake near a pig farm produced a small flock of Ruff, and then at a large area of flooded farmland we found a wide assortment of waterbirds including a Western Cattle Egret (a vagrant in Bulgaria), eight Glossy Ibises, a lone Greater White-fronted Goose, several Eurasian Oystercatchers, Little Ringed Plovers and Collared Pratincoles, a Green Sandpiper, two immature Little Gulls and a couple of Whiskered Terns. The highlight, however, was an adult White-tailed Eagle soaring almost directly overhead. Our last stop before lunch was at a hill overlooking Lake Mantra where we found some distant Pygmy Cormorants, two Great Egrets and a single Red-footed Falcon. Lunch at a little cafe in the village of Dimchevo was a pleasant affair, and then we returned to the marshes and saline lagoons on the outskirts of Burgas, where we found a Grey Plover, our first of several Eurasian Penduline Tits and a 3 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

4 late migrant Wood Warbler. Pressing on, we eventually came to an area of marshes and meadows bordering Lake Atanasovo, and here we found no less than 43 Red-footed Falcons spread out along the power lines, along with about 20 Collared Pratincoles, two Gull-billed Terns and another two Eurasian Penduline Tits. We ended the afternoon at a stony area near Pomorie, where we had great looks at a breeding pair of Eurasian Stone-curlews. Before leaving the Pomorie area the next morning, we visited three sites along the edge of Pomorie Lagoon and found a Greylag Goose, a pair of Ruddy Shelducks, two Little Stints and seven Curlew Sandpipers, along with more Grey Plovers, a Mediterranean Gull and a Little Gull. Later, as we made our way north towards Kavarna, we made a short detour to Irakli on the coast and found a Greyheaded Woodpecker and several Lesser Grey Shrikes and Hawfinches in the trees near the village. A quick look at the sea produced a single Black-throated Diver flying south far out. After another very pleasant lunch at a small restaurant in the village of Goritsa, we moved to the nearby forest and soon found a very obliging Middle Spotted Woodpecker. The Semicollared Flycatchers were not nearly so obliging, but eventually we found a pair visiting a nest-box and had great views through the scopes. Other birds here included several Eurasian Nuthatches, a Short-toed Treecreeper and the only Spotted Flycatcher of the trip, but the forest was rather quiet and as soon as it started to rain, we decided to leave. Our last stop before Kavarna was at a stretch of cliffs near the coast where Eurasian Eagle Owls are known to breed. By now it was a fine sunny evening and it did not takes us long to spot one of the adults sitting out in the open near the top of the cliff. The bird was some way off, but the light was perfect and the scopes did their job well. The next day began well with close views of a Syrian Woodpecker in the hotel garden and a male Levant Sparrowhawk flying by. Our main objective this morning was to visit Lake Durankulak, home of the westernmost breeding population of Paddyfield Warbler. Within a few minutes of arriving at the north-east corner of the lake we had located several of these very distinctive and demonstrative Acrocephalus warblers, and had superb as they sang from the tops of the reeds. A Savi s Warbler responded well to playback in the same patch of reeds and a Tawny Pipit passed by in its song flight. There were lots of waterbirds at the lake, including a Pygmy Cormorant, seven Glossy Ibises, an immature Eurasian Spoonbill and four Collared Pratincoles, a flock of Mediterranean Gulls on the beach, a Black-throated Diver on the sea and a flock of 170 Great White Pelicans circling way off in the distance. We then moved on to the two Shabla lakes, but found little of note other than some close Ferruginous Ducks, a flock of 14 Little Gulls and another Tawny Pipit. We stopped for our picnic lunch at Vailata archaeological site on the cliffs near Cape Kaliakra. Calandra Larks were everywhere, and we also found a couple of Greater Short-toed Larks and our first pair of Pied Wheatears. We were hoping to find Rosy Starlings in this area, but the first to appear a little flock of 15 flew by rapidly and were missed by most of us. After a quick look at the Thracian burial chambers on the top of the cliffs, we continued on to Cape Kaliakra, and here we immediately found a flock of about 40 Rosy Starlings in the bushes near the car park. These birds were much more obliging, and gave great views. There were about a dozen European Shags on the Cape, as well as a few Alpine Swifts, several pairs of Pied Wheatears and a migrant Blue-headed Wagtail. A light-phase Arctic Skua flew north past the tip and a small school of Bottle-nosed Dolphins put on an excellent display, but there were no shearwaters to be seen, possibly because there was not enough wind to bring the birds close inshore. On the way back to Kavarna, we stopped at two areas of natural steppe vegetation and here, at last, we had close views of three Red-footed Falcons, along with another pair of Eurasian Stone-curlews and more Greater Short-toed Larks and Isabelline Wheatears. An afterdinner stroll into a park failed to produce the hoped for European Scops Owl (possibly because there was a student ball in progress), but we heard one calling from the valley below the hotel. We were out early the next morning to try again for the Levant Sparrowhawk and were not disappointed. First the male appeared and then the female, and she stayed around long enough for even the late risers to come out and enjoy great scope views of her perched up in a tree. Well pleased 4 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

5 with our stay in Kavarna, we set off after breakfast for Lake Srebarna in the Danube Valley. On the way, we stopped at an area of flooded farmland with an impressive concentration of waterbirds including 61 Great White Pelicans, 12 Black Storks, 223 White Storks, 12 Eurasian Spoonbills and an assortment of ducks and waders. We arrived at Lake Srebarna in late morning, and had plenty of time to enjoy this beautiful lake and its many breeding waterbirds from a series of convenient look-outs on the southern and eastern sides. The lake is most famous for its breeding Dalmatian Pelicans, and we had many great views of these impressive birds as they fished in the open waters of the lake or circled overhead. There was a large mixed breeding colony of Pygmy Cormorants, Glossy Ibises, Eurasian Spoonbills, herons and egrets in the reed-beds, and good numbers of breeding Whiskered Terns. Other notable birds included a Black-necked Grebe on its nest, ten Great Egrets (a rare breeding bird in Bulgaria), two pairs of Greylag Geese (one of which had two well-grown young), about 30 Ferruginous Ducks, two Eurasian Hobbys, 17 Black Terns, a couple of Common Kingfishers, two very obliging Syrian Woodpeckers and several Eurasian Penduline Tits, one of which was watched working on its nest. We rounded off the afternoon enjoying a quiet drink at a small cafe by the mighty Danube River and watching a stream of cormorants, herons and egrets commuting between their breeding colony at Lake Srebarna and their feeding areas across the river in Romania. Another attempt at European Scops Owl that evening failed to produce a sighting, although we heard a bird calling tantalizingly close, but we did see a Long-eared Owl flying over and another European Nightjar. A pre-breakfast stroll the next morning took us up into an area of vineyards where we saw a Common Pheasant, two Barred Warblers and several Ortolan Buntings, but we could not linger as we had a long drive ahead of us to Sofia and much to see on the way. Our first stop was to enjoy great views of about 50 colourful European Bee-eaters at their breeding colony in an earthen bank by the highway, and then we moved on to Nova Cherna fishponds near Tutrakan. We soon found our main targets here, Marsh Warbler and Eurasian Wryneck, and both behaved beautifully, the latter outside its nest-hole in a dead tree. Other notable birds in this area included about 25 Pygmy Cormorants, a male Little Bittern perched in full view, a Lesser Whitethroat in song and yet another two Eurasian Penduline Tits. We stopped for lunch at an impressive monastery in the hills near Veliko Tarnovo, where Black Storks, Long-legged Buzzards and Red-rumped Swallows entertained us, and later we made a short detour to visit an area of meadows near Sopot Reservoir where we heard a Corn Crake and saw a couple of European Stonechats and a Whinchat. We finally arrived at our pleasant hotel perched high on the slopes of Mt Vitosha in late evening, just in time to see the Pallid Swifts that nest in the building coming home to roost. Our final morning in Bulgaria began with a gentle stroll along the road through the spruce forest near our hotel. This produced excellent views of about 10 Pallid Swifts and several Spotted Nutcrackers, a loose flock of about 30 Common Crossbills and another two Ring Ouzels. After breakfast, we went on a rather more strenuous hike up through the forest to the rocky outcrops and snow banks above the tree-line. We found a couple of Tree Pipits, another Whinchat and a Willow Tit on the way up, and several Water Pipits and lots of Black Redstarts on the ridge top, but our main target, the Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, was a bit elusive and it was some time before we had all had decent views of a male through the scopes. By late morning it was time to leave on the short drive down the mountain to Sofia and the airport. The last birds of the trip were a party of Alpine Swifts screaming around a tower-block in downtown Sofia, and then we were saying farewell to Lyubo and Evghani at the airport and boarding our flight back to London at the end of a really great birding trip to Bulgaria. 5 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

6 SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leaders are indicated by the symbol (NL). GAVIIDAE Black-throated Diver (Black-throated Loon) Gavia arctica: Distant views of one flying by off the beach at Irakli, and much closer views of a rather scruffy individual on the sea off the beach at Lake Durankulak. PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Three or four in the Burgas wetlands, one at Lake Srebarna and one heard at Nova Cherna fishponds. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus: Fairly common on the lakes around Burgas, at Lake Durankulak and at Lake Srebarna. Several pairs were watched displaying. Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis: Good views of an adult on the nest at Lake Srebarna. PHALACROCORACIDAE Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo: Abundant in the Burgas area where there were large breeding colonies on derelict pylons, and also found breeding in large numbers in trees at Lake Durankulak. European Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis: About 12 of the Mediterranean/Black Sea subspecies desmarestii on the cliffs and rocky islets at Cape Kaliakra. Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus: Rather distant views of 13 at Lake Mandra and one at Lake Durankulak, and then great views of several at Lake Srebarna, where there were at least 200 birds breeding in the reed-beds, and also about 25 at Nova Cherna fishponds. This species is currently listed as Near threatened in BirdLife International s Threatened Birds of the World, although the numbers breeding in Europe have been increasing rapidly in recent years. PELECANIDAE Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus: Rather distant views of about 60 on Vaya Lake in Burgas; distant views of a flock of 170 flying by at Lake Durankulak, and finally good views of a flock of 61 on a temporary wetland at Senokos, on the way to Silistra. Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus: Three soaring over the hills near Studen Kladenets reservoir came as something of a surprise. We found 33 in the Burgas wetlands and then had excellent views of about 50 at Lake Srebarna, where there is an important breeding colony. With a global population of only about 10,000-15,000 individuals, this is the rarest of the world s eight pelican species. It is currently listed as Vulnerable by BirdLife International. ARDEIDAE Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus: Seen in flight over the reed-beds at Lake Vaya and on several occasions at Lake Durankulak and Lake Srebarna, and finally seen well at Nova Cherna fishponds, where a male perched high up in the reeds and gave prolonged views in the scopes. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Good views on several occasions at the lakes in the Burgas area and Lake Srebarna, where there is a large breeding colony. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Good views of a single individual in an area of recent flooding by Lake Mantra. This is a rare vagrant in Bulgaria, and was a new species for Lyubo s Bulgarian list, not to mention a write-in for our Bulgarian tour. 6 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

7 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides: First encountered in the wetlands around Burgas, where we recorded nine, and then seen in good numbers at Lake Durankulak (about 20) and Lake Srebarna (about 25). There was also one at Nova Cherna fishponds. Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Fairly common in the wetlands and seen well on many occasions. Great Egret (Great White Egret) Egretta alba: Two at Lake Mantra, two at Lake Durankulak and about 10 at Lake Srebarna. This is a rather scarce bird in Bulgaria, breeding only at Lake Srebarna. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Fairly common, especially in the wetlands in the east and north. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Three in the Burgas wetlands, four at Lake Durankulak and half a dozen at Lake Srebarna. Several gave excellent views in flight. CICONIIDAE Black Stork Ciconia nigra: Several good sightings in the Rhodope Mountains, where we recorded about a dozen including a couple of birds at their nests. We also found a dozen on a flooded area at Senokos, a couple at Lake Srebarna, and five on the drive back to Sofia. White Stork Ciconia ciconia: Common and widespread, and seen on the nest at many localities throughout the tour. The spring migration was apparently still in progress, as we found a flock of 223 at a temporary wetland near Senokos on the way to Silistra. THRESKIORNITHIDAE Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: A total of eight in the Burgas area, a flock of seven at Lake Durankulak, at least 40 at Lake Srebarna, where there is an important breeding colony, and about 30 flying over the vineyards at Vetren, as they commuted between the colony at Lake Srebarna and their feeding areas along the Danube. Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia: Four individuals in the Burgas wetlands, an immature at Lake Durankulak, 12 at the temporary wetland at Senokos, and at least a dozen flying to and from the breeding colony in the reed-beds at Lake Srebarna. ANATIDAE Mute Swan Cygnus olor: A couple on the river at Kardzali; common in the Burgas wetlands, where we recorded about 60, and also seen in smaller numbers at Lake Durankulak and Lake Srebarna, where one pair had five cygnets. These birds belong to the Black Sea population, currently estimated at about 45,000 individuals. This population has been increasing rapidly in recent decades, thanks to greatly reduced levels of persecution. Greater White-fronted Goose Anser albifrons: Good scope views of an adult at Lake Mantra a leftover from the large wintering population in this area. Greylag Goose Anser anser: A single individual at Pomorie Lagoon near Burgas, and two pairs at Lake Srebarna, one of which had two large goslings. The total breeding population of this species in Bulgaria is estimated at only 5-15 pairs. Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea: Good views of a pair at one of the salt pans at the north end of Pomorie Lagoon. Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna: Common in the brackish and saline lagoons around Burgas and Pomorie, and also a dozen at Lake Durankulak and Shabla Tuzla. Gadwall Anas strepera: About 20 in the wetlands around Burgas, a pair at Lake Durankulak and four at Senokos wetland. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos: Fairly common in all the main wetlands. Garganey Anas querquedula: Pairs and singles on several occasions in the wetlands around Burgas, at Lake Durankulak, at Lake Srebarna and at Nova Cherna fishponds. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: Two males at Lake Vaya in Burgas. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: About 130 in the Burgas wetlands, 25 at Lake Durankulak and Shabla Tuzla, and ten at Lake Srebarna. 7 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

8 Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca: Great views on a number of occasions, including nine at Lake Mandra, two at Lake Durankulak, 10 at Shabla Tuzla, and at least 30 at Lake Srebarna. The wetlands of Bulgaria provide important breeding habitat for this rather scarce and local species which is list as Near threatened in Threatened Birds of the World. ACCIPITRIDAE European Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus: A couple in the Studen Kladenets area, three birds migrating north over the Burgas area, one at Irakli and two over a patch of forest on the drive to Lake Srebarna. Black Kite Milvus migrans: Two at the vulture-feeding station near Studen Kladenets and a single bird near Topolovgrad. White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla: Excellent views of an adult soaring overhead at Lake Mandra a very impressive eagle. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus: Great views of eight in the hills near Studen Kladenets, including several at the vulture-feeding station and a bird on its nest, and four near Madzharovo the next day. Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus: Superb views on many occasions in the hills around Studen Kladenets. Our highest single count was about 60 at the vulture-feeding station, where the birds put on an excellent show. Anne spotted a bird on its nest on the cliffs across the river from the Arda Hotel, and we found 14 near the breeding cliffs at Madzharovo the next day. Eurasian Black Vulture (Cinereous Vulture) Aegypius monachus: A bird soaring over the valley below Trigrad Gorge was an unexpected find and the first record of this species in this area for many years. A young bird, marked with the wing-tag No.64, appeared at the carcass at the vulture-feeding station near Studen Kladenets and gave great views as it squabbled with the Griffons. The Eurasian Black Vulture does not breed in Bulgaria, apparently because of the lack of suitable trees, but wanders over from neighbouring Greece to feed. It is a rather scarce bird throughout its huge range, and is listed as Near threatened in Threatened Birds of the World. Short-toed Eagle (Short-toed Snake Eagle) Circaetus gallicus: Decent scope views of a single bird near Studen Kaldenets, one at Madzharovo Crater the next day, and a couple in the Burgas area. Western Marsh Harrier (Eurasian Marsh Harrier) Circus aeruginosus: Many good sightings in the wetlands in the east and north, and also seen near Studen Kladenets. Montagu s Harrier Circus pygargus: Good views of a pair over arable land on the drive from Topolovgrad to Burgas. Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes: Our first attempt for this species, near a nest-site in the Krumovitza valley near Studen Kladenets, produced only fleeting views of a female in flight. However, we found a very obliging pair in the wooded valley below our hotel at Kavarna, and had prolonged views of the male and female perched in the open and in their display flight. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo: Fairly common and widespread in wooded areas. The local breeding birds belong to the nominate race, but the two birds that we saw migrating north with other raptors in the Burgas area were presumably vulpinus ( Steppe Buzzard ) which breeds from northern Sweden, Finland and the Baltic States east across northern Europe and Siberia to the Yenisei. Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus: Good views of pairs and single birds on several occasions in the western Rhodope mountains and a pair around their nest on the Eagle Owl cliff near Kavarna. We also saw a couple at our lunch stop on the way back to Sofia. Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina: Distant views of one near Madzharovo Crater and two near Topolovgrad; good views of five migrating north with other raptors in the Burgas area; and two over a patch of forest near Dobrich, where the birds breed. 8 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

9 Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca: Great views of two adults in the rolling hills near Topolovgrad: an adult female returning to its huge nest in an isolated clump of trees near our lunch stop, and another individual soaring low over a valley a few km away. We also had distant views of an immature bird. This very impressive eagle is sadly now a globally threatened species, listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus: Reasonable views of three individuals: a light-phase bird over Madzharovo Crater, another light-phase bird on the way to Burgas, and a dark-phase bird near Lake Mantra. A light-phase bird seen across the Danube from the cafe at Vetren hardly counted, as it was way off in Romania! FALCONIDAE Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus: Common and widespread. Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus: Our first was a single female at Lake Mantra, but this was not seen by everyone. Following a tip-off, Lyubo took us to a marshy plain near Lake Atanasovo where we soon found a loose group of 43 (14 males and 29 females) perched on power lines and hawking for insects. Sadly most were very distant, although a few birds came reasonably close. Much our best views were on the steppe near Cape Kaliakra, where we found a male and two females again perched on power lines. These allowed very close approach and gave excellent views. This species is now only an irregular breeding bird in Bulgaria although it remains a fairly common passage migrant. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo: Single individuals seen well on several occasions throughout the tour. We logged a total of nine in all. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: Two adults in the Studen Kladenets area, and two recently fledged juveniles on the cliffs at Madzharovo Crater. PHASIANIDAE Chukar Alectoris chukar: Superb views of a very responsive calling bird at Madzharovo Crater. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix: One heard calling in arable land near the Arda River showed some interest in playback, flying across the road and landing in the tall vegetation nearby, but then remained well hidden. Another bird heard calling on the steppe near Cape Kaliakra showed no interest in playback. Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus: Two seen and several others heard in the farmland around Vetren. RALLIDAE Corn Crake Crex crex (H): One heard calling in the lush meadows near Sopot Reservoir on the drive back to Sofia. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Small numbers in several of the wetlands. Eurasian Coot (Common Coot) Fulica atra: Fairly common in the wetlands. HAEMATOPODIDAE Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus: A total of five in the wetlands around Burgas. The subspecific status of the small population of Eurasian Oystercatchers breeding in Bulgaria and Romania is uncertain. Some authors consider them to belong to the nominate race, while others assign them to the western Asian race longipes. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: A common breeding bird at the lagoons around Burgas and Pomorie. We also saw 11 at a temporary wetland at Senokos on the way to Silistra. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta: A very common breeding bird in the saline lagoons around Burgas and Pomorie. Some pairs already had small chicks. We also saw seven at the temporary wetland at Senokos. 9 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

10 BURHINIDAE Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus: Good views of a pair on a stony area in the grassland near Lake Atanasovo (where they were obviously nesting), and also a pair on the steppe near Cape Kaliakra. GLAREOLIDAE Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola: Very distant views of a couple at Lake Mantra and then great views of about 20 at a breeding colony on ploughed land near Lake Atanasovo. We also saw four over the marshes at Lake Durankulak. CHARADRIIDAE Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: One on the river at Kardzali, half a dozen in the Burgas wetlands, a pair with at least one chick on the beach at Pomorie, a couple over the beach at Irakli, and one on the beach at Lake Durankulak. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: Excellent views of 11 at saline lagoons in the Pomorie and Burgas areas. Grey Plover (Black-bellied Plover) Pluvialis squatarola: One at a saline lagoon near Burgas, and a party of seven at a salt pan north of Pomorie. Several were in almost full breeding plumage. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus: First encountered in the rice fields near Plovdiv, and then seen in good numbers in the wetlands around Burgas, at Lake Durankulak and in the flooded fields near Senokos. SCOLOPACIDAE Little Stint Calidris minuta: Two with a small group of Curlew Sandpipers at a salt pan north of Pomorie. One was in full breeding plumage. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea: Good views of five birds in breeding plumage at a salt pan north of Pomorie, and very distant views of one with a small flock of Ruff at the temporary wetland near Senokos. Ruff Philomachus pugnax: Good views of a party of nine reeves near the pig farm by Lake Mantra, and distant views of a party of eight reeves at the temporary wetland near Senokos. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: One flying over and calling at Lake Durankulak a very late migrant and a write-in for our spring Bulgaria tour. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus: Distant scope views of a single bird in flooded fields near Lake Mantra another very late migrant and also a write-in for the tour. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: One by the river at Kardzali, during one of our several pharmacy stops. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: One at the Sandwich Tern colony on an artificial island in Lake Pomorie. STERCORARIIDAE Arctic Skua (Parasitic Jaeger) Stercorarius parasiticus: Close but brief views of a light-phase bird passing north off Cape Kaliakra. LARIDAE Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus: Three at Vaya Lake, one at the salt pans north of Pomorie, 10 on the beach at Lake Durankulak and half a dozen over the sea off Cape Kaliakra. The great majority were immature birds, although there was one nice adult in breeding plumage off the Cape. 10 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

11 Little Gull Larus minutus: Good views of two immature birds over the flooded area near Lake Mantra, another immature with a Mediterranean Gull at the salt pans north of Pomorie, and a party of 14, including one adult in breeding plumage, on the sea at Shabla Tuzla. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus: About 100, mostly immature birds, in the wetlands around Burgas, 10 at Lake Durankulak and Shabla Tuzla, about 25 at Lake Srebarna, where there is a small breeding colony, and a few at Nova Cherna fishponds. Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans: Common in the wetlands around Burgas and Pomorie and along the coast, and also seen far inland at rice fields near Plovdiv, along the river at Kardzali, at Lake Srebarna and over the Danube. STERNIDAE Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: Two adults seen by Lyubo and Tim at Lake Atanasovo. Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis: Superb views of several hundred at the large breeding colony at Pomorie Lagoon. We also saw four over the sea off Cape Kaliakra. Common Tern Sterna hirundo: A common breeding bird in the wetlands around Burgas and Pomorie, and present in much smaller numbers at Lake Durankulak and Lake Srebarna. We also saw a pair over the river at Kardzali. Little Tern Sterna albifrons: Fairly common over the lagoons around Pomorie and Burgas, where we recorded over 30. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: A couple at Lake Mantra, one at Pomorie Lagoon, a party of seven at Lake Durankulak and two in the flooded fields at Senokos were probably all still on migration. Breeding was already well underway at Lake Srebarna, where we saw at least 100, and presumably also at Nova Cherna fishponds, where we saw about 10. Black Tern Chlidonias niger: Two flying down the river at Kardzali, two over a quiet backwater of Lake Mantra, at least 17 at Lake Srebarna and a flock of 13 flying rapidly down the Danube at Vetren. White-winged Tern (White-winged Black Tern) Chlidonias leucopterus: A single bird with a flock of Black Terns flying down the Danube at Vetren. We were a couple of weeks too late for the main migration of this species. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove (introduced) Columba livia: Common everywhere. Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus: Recorded in small numbers near Pamporovo and at several localities in the north-east, notably Lake Srebarna. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto: First encountered at Kardzali and in the Burgas area, and then found commonly in towns and villages in the north. European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur: Pleasantly common in rural areas almost throughout the tour. CUCULIDAE Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus: First encountered at the Arda River near Studen Kladenets, and then seen and heard on many occasions throughout the tour, often giving great views. STRIGIDAE European Scops Owl Otus scops (H): Heard calling at Madzharovo Crater (in mid-morning!), in the valley below our hotel at Kavarna, and just down the road from our hotel in Vetren, but the birds showed little interest in playback, perhaps because they were already well advanced in their breeding cycle. Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo: Good scope views of a magnificent adult sitting on a cliff ledge near Kavarna and enjoying the evening sunshine. Little Owl Athene noctua: Great views of several birds sitting on roof-tops and chimney pots in villages in the Studen Kladenets area. We recorded a total of seven. 11 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

12 Long-eared Owl Asio otus: One flew over the road near our hotel in Vetren as we were hunting for Scops Owls. CAPRIMULGIDAE European Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus: Exceptional views of a female roosting on a log by the roadside in the woodland near Madzharovo. This bird was spotted by Chris from the moving bus a remarkable achievement even for someone who has been studying nightjars. We also had brief views of a bird at dusk and heard two others calling when we were looking for European Scops Owls at Vetren. APODIDAE Common Swift Apus apus: Common and widespread. Pallid Swift Apus pallidus: Almost the bogey bird of the trip. We missed it in Trigrad Gorge because of the bad weather, and the colony at Studen Kladenets had recently been abandoned owing to disturbance from construction workers. It was not until our last evening on Vitosha that we finally caught up with the species around our hotel. We then had great views of about 10 during our early morning walk the next day. Alpine Swift Apus melba: Many great views of this very impressive swift at a breeding colony by the roadside on the way to Trigrad Gorge, in the Arda River and Studen Kladenets area, over our hotel at Kavarna, over the cliffs at Cape Kaliakra, and even around high-rise buildings in Sofia. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: One near our hotel by the Arda River, a couple at Lake Srebarna and one at Nova Cherna fishponds. MEROPIDAE European Bee-eater Merops apiaster: First encountered on the way to Pamporovo and then recorded daily in good numbers. Most were seen flying over, but a few birds showed well on roadside wires, and we had great views of about 50 birds at their breeding colony in an earthen cliff on the way to Nova Cherna. CORACIIDAE European Roller Coracias garrulus: First encountered in the Studen Kladenets area and then recorded in ones and twos almost daily to the end of the tour. Several gave great views from dead trees or roadside wires. UPUPIDAE Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops: Our best views were near our hotel by the Arda River and in the Studen Kladenets area, where we recorded at least six. Thereafter, we saw rather few: only one on the drive to Burgas, four on our excursion to Lake Durankulak and Cape Kaliakra, and one near Lake Srebarna. PICIDAE Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla: Superb views of a bird at its nest-hole in a dead tree at Nova Cherna fishponds. Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus: Good scope views of a bird perched up in a dead tree at Irakli, on the way north to Kavarna. One of many great finds by Russ. European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis: Single individuals seen on the drive to Studen Kladenets, near Studen Kladenets, at Irakli and near our hotel at Kavarna, and also heard at Lake Srebarna. 12 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

13 Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius (H): Heard calling loudly in the spruce forest near our hotel at Pamporovo, but unresponsive to playback. Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major: Heard in the forest at Pamporovo, and seen near Trigrad Gorge, at Studen Kladenets, in Goritsa forest and on Vitosha. Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus: First encountered in the woodland near Madzharovo, and then seen well in response to playback at our hotel in Kavarna and on two occasions along the western side of Lake Srebarna. Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor: Poor views of a bird responding briefly to playback in open scrub at our lunch stop near Topolovgrad. Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius: Exceptional views of a bird responding well to playback in Goritsa forest. ALAUDIDAE Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra: Very common in the natural steppe vegetation near Cape Kaliakra. We also saw a couple doing their song flight over arable land on the drive to Burgas, but these were a long way away. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla: Good views of about eight in the steppe vegetation near Cape Kaliakra. Crested Lark Galerida cristata: About a dozen on the drive from Lyubimets to Burgas, half a dozen in the Burgas area, four near Cape Kaliakra and one near Vetren. This species is now decreasing in Bulgaria for reasons that are unknown. Wood Lark Lullula arborea: One was heard in the hills near Studen Kladenets, and one was watched doing its song flight at one of our roadside stops between Lyubimets and Topolovgrad. Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis: Recorded in arable land at many localities throughout the tour and particularly common in the eastern Rhodope, around Lake Durankulak and at Cape Kaliakra. HIRUNDINIDAE Sand Martin (Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia: First encountered at a river near Plovdiv, and then seen in small numbers in the Burgas wetlands, at Lake Durankulak and at Lake Srebarna. Eurasian Crag Martin Hirundo rupestris: First encountered at Asenovgrad Gorge, then found commonly in Trigrad Gorge and in the rocky hills near Studen Kladenets, where we had some superb views. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Very common throughout the tour. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica: Common in the Rhodope mountains and seen well on several occasions, notably near our hotel by the Arda River. We also saw a couple on the drive to Kavarna and six at the Transfiguration Monastery near Veliko Tarnovo. Apparently this species is spreading northwards in Bulgaria. Common House Martin Delichon urbica: Very common and widespread, recorded in big numbers every day. MOTACILLIDAE Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris: Great views of a single bird, presumably a migrant, near our hotel at Pomorie, then one in song at Lake Durankulak, one on the wires at Lake Shabla, and two in the natural steppe vegetation near Cape Kaliakra. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis: Two birds near the tree-line on Vitosha. Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta: Great views of at least four above the tree-line on Vitosha. Two birds showed particularly well as they foraged on a snow bank. Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] flava: Good views of a male near the car park at Cape Kaliakra. Black-headed Wagtail Motacilla [flava] feldegg: First encountered on the way to Kardzali, and then seen in small numbers in the wetlands around Burgas, at the Durankulak and Shabla 13 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010

14 lakes, in the flooded fields at Senokos, at Nova Cherna fishponds and near Sopot Reservoir. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: First seen in Asenovgrad Gorge, then fairly common in Trigrad Gorge, on the drive to Kardzali and on Vitosha. White Wagtail Motacilla [alba] alba: Widespread but not particularly common. CINCLIDAE White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus: Good views of a young bird in Asenovgrad Gorge on our first day, and then at least four adults in Trigrad valley the next day. TROGLODYTIDAE Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes (H): Heard in the forest at Pamporovo, in Trigrad Gorge and in the spruce forest on Vitosha, but never actually seen. PRUNELLIDAE Dunnock (Hedge Accentor) Prunella modularis: A couple in song in spruce forest near our hotel at Pamporovo, and at least five in the high forest on Vitosha. TURDIDAE European Robin Erithacus rubecula: Heard in song in the forest at Pamporovo and seen in Trigrad Gorge and in the forest near our hotel on Vitosha. Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos: Heard in song almost everywhere we went and clearly very common, but seldom actually seen. Our best views were of a bird responding well to playback near our hotel on the Arda River. Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros: First encountered in Asenovgrad Gorge and then seen well on several occasions in Trigrad Gorge, in Vetren village, and especially on Vitosha, where this was the commonest bird above the tree-line. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra: A female in the meadows near Sopot Reservoir, as we were looking for Corn Crakes, and a male at the tree-line on Vitosha. European Stonechat (Common Stonechat) Saxicola rubicola: A male and a female briefly on the drive from Madzharovo to Burgas, and a pair near Sopot Reservoir on the way back to Sofia. Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina: First encountered on the north side of Studen Kladenets reservoir near Kardzali, and then seen well on several occasions in the eastern Rhodope. We also saw four in natural steppe vegetation near Cape Kaliakra. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe: First encountered in the Studen Kladenets area, and then seen in ones and twos at several localities. Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka: Superb views of at least eight at Vailata archaeological site and Cape Kaliakra. Some of the males were very clean black and white. Eastern Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe melanoleuca: Superb views of a male of the white-throated form and a female near the dam at Studen Kladenets. We also found two other birds in this area and one near Madzharovo the next day. Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush Monticola saxatilis: Decent scope views of two males above the tree-line on Vitosha on our last morning. This colourful thrush has become rather scarce in Bulgaria in recent years, and has disappeared from many of its former breeding sites. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius: Great views of four in the Studen Kladenets area and four near Madzharovo the next day. Ring Ouzel Turdus torquatus: Exceptional views of a very confiding male of the pale southern race alpestris feeding in a car park at Pamporovo, and brief views of a couple on Vitosha on our last morning. Common Blackbird Turdus merula: A common woodland bird throughout, occurring almost up to the tree-line on Vitosha. 14 Birdquest: Bulgaria 2010