HUNGARY: The Carnival of Cranes Sat 17-Sat 24 October 2009

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1 Limosa Trip Report HUNGARY: The Carnival of Cranes Sat 17-Sat 24 October 2009 The end of another fantastic day, wave after wave of Common Cranes fly to roost over the Hortobágy National Park on our October 2009 tour to Hungary Zoltán Ecsedi/Sakertour. For a more extensive selection of photos taken on our tours to Hungary, see our online Gallery feature at report compiled by tour leader: Zoltán Ecsedi 1 Limosa Holidays, Suffield House, Northrepps, Norfolk NR27 0LZ, England tel: +44 (0) fax: +44 (0) info@limosaholidays.co.uk website:

2 Trip Diary Autumn Hortobágy offers one of the most atmospheric ornithological adventures in Europe, with the image of the setting orange sun over the endless stretches of puszta, with the cranes v-formations flying over the flats, and lone sweep wells. This is exactly why we devised this tour: to observe the annual October gathering of 50,000 cranes. Birding on the short grass steppe and wetlands is completed with our wanderings in the Zemplén Hills, clad in brilliant autumn colours, where we search for woodpeckers and large owls. These landscapes and their birds offer a varied trip to the easternmost corner of Hungary, where we are housed in close proximity of our target birds. Our 8-day tour started in the Zemplén Hills. The first morning picked up slowly in the quiet autumn forest after observing a feeding Middle Spotted Woodpecker in our hotel s grounds. Then it all gained momentum after finding an odd pair of baby socks in the parking lot of a restaurant - a sock that became our lucky sock and luck indeed followed us throughout the tour! We found the resident Eagle Owl in a quarry, and we saw Alpine Accentors at the ruins of Regéc castle, followed by the woodpeckers species: Grey-faced, Green, Black, Great Spotted and Syrian, while the rare White-backed was observed for minutes on dry branches right over our heads. For sure, we won t forget the evening when we marvelled at the small eyed, long-tailed Ural Owl that was sitting on a branch over our heads for half an hour, lured out from the depths of the forest by Zoli, alias Woodpeckerman. We believed that this could not be bettered... when a group of Cranes flew over the Ural Owl, and through a gap in the trees we could see them flying down south towards the Hortobágy showing us what to expect at our next destination for the coming days! The Hortobágy did not disappoint. Everywhere we went, everywhere we looked, Cranes could be seen. More than 100,000 Cranes were at that time on the puszta, and we managed to find well over half of them, feeding and flying into the three biggest roost sites. The final night s flying was something never to be forgotten, when about 30,000 birds were flying all around us non-stop, at times hundreds forming their trade mark Vs and singing loudly, so that we heard them in our heads even after going to bed. No wonder that the Crane became the bird of the trip, with the Ural Owl as a close second. Besides this mass gathering of the Cranes, other birding delights that came our way in the Hortobágy included 12 Great Bustards flying over, Dotterels amongst Golden Plovers on the endless plains, a Saker Falcon chasing after a bat, Lesser White-fronted Geese preening on dry reed stumps, White-tailed Eagles hovering over the wetlands, an adult Imperial Eagle sitting in the top of a tree soon accompanied by an arriving Whitetailed Eagle, breaking off an arm-thick branch, 50 Long-eared Owls roosting from within an-arms distance in a town park, the adult Dalmatian Pelican circling beside our bus, Pygmy Cormorants preening in dead willows and the mature Red Kite inspecting us... and the list could go on! By popular request we took the pace lightly, and did not chase species but rather enjoyed our birds and the sites resulting in a problem free and rich experience. Besides birding, we always had a good time, enjoying good food and tasting some outstanding wine in Tokaj. We won t forget this 8-day trip, the best pancakes and the fish soup at River Tisza. Simply, it was a great tour! Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus Common in the Hortobágy. Systematic list of species recorded (A total of 134 (+1) species was recorded by the group) Taiga Bean Goose Anser (fabalis) fabalis One was seen flying over our restaurant in Hortobágy village. Greylag Goose Anser anser Very common. Flock of 3500 was seen in the Hortobágy. White-fronted Goose Anser albifrons Max. 30 were on the Hortobágy Fishponds. 2 Limosa Holidays

3 Lesser White-fronted Goose Anser erythropus A family with two young and four adult were together on the Hortobágy Fishponds. We had an excellent eye ringed-view! Mute Swan Cygnus olor 8 were seen on Csécs Fishponds. Gadwall Anas strepera Maximum 600 on the Hortobágy Fishponds. Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope A few were in the Hortobágy and on Kaba Sugarfactory Ponds. Mallard Anas plathyrhynchos It was abundant in Hungary. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata A few were in the Hortobágy and on Kaba Sugarfactory Ponds. Northern Pintail Anas acuta A few were in the Hortobágy and on Kaba Sugarfactory Ponds. Common Teal Anas crecca Max. 500 ind. were seen on the Csécsi Fishponds. Common Pochard Aythya ferina Common in the Hortobágy and Tokaj Fishponds. Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca 30 were at Tokaj Fishponds and 3 were on the Kaba Sugarfactory ponds. Scaup Aythya marila: One female was at Kaba Sugar Factory ponds. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula A few were seen at Tokaj Fishponds and at Kaba. Goldeneye Bucephala clangula One juvenile was seen at Kaba Sugar Ffactory ponds. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis A small number was seen near Kaba, in the Hortobágy and on the Tokaj fishponds. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus A few were seen in the Hortobágy. Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus One adult winter plumaged was seen on the Akadémiai Fish ponds (Hortobágy). It is a rare bird in Hungary. European White Stork Ciconia ciconia One remained near Tokaj. Called Fülöp by the locals. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Common in Hungary. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Really the last was seen in the Hortobágy, at Nagy-szik. Great Egret Egretta alba It was common on the fish ponds, max count Limosa Holidays

4 Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus One adult was seen close to the road near Derzsi fish ponds. This rare bird arrived to the Hortobágy in summer. Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus About 30 were seen on the Hortobágy fish ponds. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Common in the Hortobágy. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Fairly common in Hungary. Merlin Falco columbarius One was seen on the Hortobágy fish ponds and another was at Nagyiván. Saker Falco cherrug A pair located on one of the pylon near the M3 highway on the way from the airport. Two more were seen on the Hortobágy, one of them almost caught a bat. Peregrine Falco peregrinus One circling was seen near Akadémia fishponds. White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla Daily seen on the Hortobágy, max. 7-9 ind. each day. Red Kite Milvus milvus One nice adult seen well near Balmazújváros. Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Small numbers were seen on the Hortobágy. Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus A few seen at Tokaj and on the Hortobágy. (Harrier sp. Circus sp. A juvenile was circling among the Common Buzzards on the Zemplén Hills. It was too far to identify for sure, but we were 98% certain that it was a Pallid Harrier.) Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Seen daily in Zemplén and in Hortobágy too. Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis Only one was seen in Zemplén, at the hotel area. Common Buzzard Buteo buteo It was very common in Hungary, max 100 on a day. Rough-legged Buzzard Buteo lagopus Probably we saw the first arrivals to the Hortobágy this year, at Csécsi Fish ponds. Eastern Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca We recorded 4 adults near the M3 motorway on the first day. Another adult was near Nagyiván. Great Bustard Otis tarda 12 close flying females seen on the Nagyiváni-puszta, probably flushed by White-tailed and Imperial Eagles. European Water Rail Rallus aquaticus (H) Two heard in the Hortobágy. 4 Limosa Holidays

5 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Only two were seen at the hotel in Hortobágy. Common Coot Fulica atra Common in Hungary. Common Crane Grus grus Bird of the tour! Estimated number seen: On the last evening, flew continuously to roost. Many were seen over our hotel in the Hortobágy, and the very first 45 glided over a Ural Owl in the Zemplén Hills. Eurasian Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus We had two on the Daru-Karinkó puszta near Balmazújváros, and 3 near Nagyiván. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta 38 were seen on different fishponds on the Hortobágy. Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Fairly common near the wetlands and grasslands in Hungary. Eurasian Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria 3 juveniles were with the Dotterels. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola 3 juveniles were seen on the Elep fish ponds. Eurasian Dotterel Charadrius morinellus 7 seen extremely well on the Nyári járás puszta near Balmazújváros. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago Fairly common on the fish ponds. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa One was on the Csécsi fish ponds. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Common on the fish ponds, max 100. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 80 were on the Csécsi fish ponds. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Only one seen on the Elep fish ponds. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola Only one was on the Csécsi fish ponds. Turnstone Arenaria interpres A late one was found on the Csécsi fish ponds. Little Stint Calidris minuta Two were with Dunlins on the Csécsi fish ponds. Dunlin Calidris alpina Common on the drained fish ponds. Ruff Philomachus pugnax Only one juvenile male was seen on the Csécsi fish ponds. Common Gull Larus canus A few were seen on fish ponds. 5 Limosa Holidays

6 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis A few were seen on fish ponds. Caspian Gull Larus cachinnans Common in the Hortobágy, max count of 600. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Common in the Hortobágy. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus A very late one seen on Csécsi fish ponds. Feral Rock Dove Columba livia Stock Dove Columba oenas 30 were in the Hortobágy. Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus Fairly common in Hungary. Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Very common in the villages. Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo One was seen on the wall of a quarry at Tokaj. Ural Owl Strix uralensis One seen very well near Sátoraljaújhely, in the Zemplén Hills. Little Owl Athene noctua Three were seen in the Hortobágy. Long-eared Owl Asio otus 50 were roosting together in Balmazújváros, and 3 at Hortobágy village. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Several were seen at Tokaj and in the Hortobágy. Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius Several seen well in the Zemplén Hills, one at the hotel garden. White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos One nice male seen very well and long in the Northern Zemplén. Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus Four seen at Tokaj and at Hortobágy village. Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major It was very common in the Zemplén Hills, and a few seen on the hotel garden in the Hortobágy. Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius Several seen well in the Zemplén Hills. Green Woodpecker Picus viridis Several seen and heard in the Zemplén Hills. Grey-faced Woodpecker Picus canus 4 seen well in the Zemplén Hills. 6 Limosa Holidays

7 Northen Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor Seen daily in both area. Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius Fairly common in the Zemplén Hills. Common Magpie Pica pica Common everywhere. Eurasian Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes One was seen in the Zemplén Hills. Eurasian Jackdaw Corvus monedula Several seen on the tour. Three eastern race (ssp. soemmeringii) were near Balmazújváros. Rook Corvus frugilegus Very common. Hooded Crow Corvus corone Common Raven Corvus corax A few were seen in the Zemplén Hills. Marsh Tit Parus palustris A few recorded in Zemplén Hills. Willow Tit Parus montanus We saw 2 in the Zemplén Hills. Coal Tit Parus ater A few seen in the Zemplén Hills. Great Tit Parus major Common in Hungary. Eurasian Blue Tit Parus caeruleus Common in Hungary. Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus A few were seen in the Hortobágy, and many heard ones. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Two late ones were seen at Bivalyhalmi fish ponds. Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus A few were seen in both areas. Crested Lark Galerida cristata Small numbers were recorded manly in the Hortobágy. Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis Several were seen in the Hortobágy. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Several were seen in both areas. Bearded Reedling Panurus biarmicus (H) Surprisingly only heard in the Hortobágy few times. 7 Limosa Holidays

8 Goldcrest Regulus regulus Several were seen in both areas. Northern Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Heard and seen in the both area. Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea Several were seen in the Zemplén Hills. Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris 2 were seen in the Zemplén Hills. European Starling Sturnus vulgaris Very common. A flock of were over the vineyards of Tokaj. Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula Fairly common in Hungary. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos Fairly common in the Zemplén Hills, rare in the Hortobágy. Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Several were seen in the Zemplén Hills. European Robin Erithacus rubecola Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros It was common everywhere. European Stonechat Saxicola torquata Daily encounter in the Hortobágy. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Very common. Dunnock Prunella modularis (H) A few were heard in the Zemplén.. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris Two adults were seen well in the Zemplén Hills, at Regéc Castle. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea A late one was seen at Tokaj fish ponds. White Wagtail Motacilla alba Fairly common in the Hortobágy. Meadow Pipit Pipit Anthus pratensis Fairly common in the Hortobágy. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Three flying ones were seen in the Hortobágy. Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta Three were recorded in the Hortobágy. 8 Limosa Holidays

9 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Brambling Fringilla montifringilla A few small flocks were seen in the Hortobágy. European Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Eurasian Siskin Carduelis spinus Almost a daily encounter in both areas. European Serin Serinus serinus Several were seen in the Zemplén and in the Hortobágy too. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina A few seen in the Hortobágy. Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes A few were seen in the Zemplén and in the Hortobágy. Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra Fairly common in the Hortobágy. Rock Bunting Emberiza cia Two were briefly seen at Boldogkőváralja, in the Zemplén Hills, where it is a rare bird. Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Fairly common in both areas. Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus Fairly common in the Hortobágy. Mammals Brown Hare Lepus europaeus Seen every day in the Hortobágy. Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris A few seen in the Zemplén Hills. Otter Lutra lutra One was hunting on the Bivalyhalmi fish ponds (Hortobágy). Muskrat Ondatra zibethicus Two were in the Hortobágy. Red Fox Vulpes vulpes Three were seen (Bodrog-zug, Hortobágy). Western Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus Seen almost everyday in Hungary. Noctule Bat Nyctalus noctula One escaped from the Saker Falcon in the Hortobágy. 9 Limosa Holidays

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