France - Cranes and Woodpeckers

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1 Naturetrek 4-8 March 2011 Coypu Lenteilles Picnic, Forêt du Temple Wild Boar activity Report and images compiled by Bob Dawson Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0) F: +44 (0) E: W:

2 France - Cranes and Woodpeckers Tour Leader: Bob Dawson Participants: Jane Walton Donald Walton Mary Zimmerman Tour summary We spent three full days exploring some of the lakes and forests of Champagne-Ardenne. The weather was sunny, which allowed us to fully enjoy a wide range of birds. Common Cranes were truly a star bird, seen (and heard!) all three days, and also on our journey home. The largest group was 1500 birds at La Ferme aux Grues. That evening we were treated to a sample of the birds famous dancing display. Waterfowl included Red-crested Pochard and over 100 Bewick s Swans. Five species of woodpecker included several gorgeous Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, and three Black Woodpeckers were heard. Short-toed Treecreepers were a subtle presence, in contrast to the abundant Nuthatches. A firm favourite with the group were the Hawfinches seen in perfect light shortly after sunrise, and we were thrilled by two adult White-tailed Eagles soaring low over Lac d Orient one afternoon. The food, as expected, was superb throughout, though style contrasted markedly between our hotels. A feature of the countryside was the delightful houses, with a fascinating diversity of church architecture. In total we recorded 80 bird species, as well as Large Tortoiseshell and Violet Carpenter Bee - a solitary Wood Anemone was a sign of spring waking. Day 1 Friday 4th March The group met up at Eurostar departures and the journey to Lille was smooth, arriving just after lunchtime. After leaving Lille the traffic was very light and we made good time on the excellent roads. The weather was sunny, though a little hazy, and only light winds were allowing a wide range of agricultural operations to be carried out. There were many gulls in the ploughed fields and one or two roadside Buzzards and a Kestrel. A rookery was active. The temperature was about 12 o C, though the light breeze was cool. We entered the region of Champagne- Ardenne and a break south of Reims produced few birds but welcome refreshment. We arrived in the exquisitely charming Vitry-le-François at 6 p.m. where, following an exploration of the town, we enjoyed sumptuous cuisine, including a very impressive chef s special dessert. Day 2 Saturday 5th March After a relaxed breakfast we headed to the observation hide at La Ferme aux Grues just outside St-Remy-en- Bouzemont - notable for the rustic, almost medieval, housing. The observation hide did not disappoint, and the sight and sound of several hundred Common Cranes in the hazy morning sunlight was very atmospheric. At least 1500 birds were present, but others continued to flight in. A number of farmland birds were here, including Tree Sparrow. Naturetrek June 11 1

3 Off next to Lac du Der-Chantecoq, a huge artificial lake. White-tailed Eagles hadn t been seen for a week but there was much to see, including over 100 Bewick s Swans. Willow Tit, Nuthatch, Green Woodpecker and Middle Spotted Woodpecker were all heard but proved elusive. After lunch we visited two nearby meres that provided a range of new birds, including a singing Short-toed Treecreeper, and close views of Muskrat. Newly-open willow catkins attracted a wide range of bees. Most Common Cranes flying to roost at Lac du Der came from rather too far to see well, apart from a group that flew in just as we were leaving. However, we saw snippets of the wonderful dancing display and a Peregrine flew over, before returning to another superb meal at the hotel. Day 3 Sunday 6th March A pre-breakfast walk at Lac du Der gave excellent views of Hawfinch as we watched a wood bathed in the glow of dawn sun - a Roe Deer buck with velvet-clad antlers watched us carefully. We saw hundreds of Common Cranes leaving their roost on the lake and a male Hen Harrier hunting very low. We left Vitry after fond farewells and headed to Etang de la Horre, where we hoped to see more waterfowl. Despite being windy, we saw Shoveler, Gadwall and a Red-crested Pochard. The woodland provided welcome respite, Willow Tit and a mobile Middle Spotted Woodpecker. Insect of the day was a fine Carpenter Bee spotted by Mary at Lenteilles, and we saw more Roe Deer. Our picnic lunch was accompanied by several flocks of Common Cranes heading north on migration, occasionally pausing to gain height on warm air thermals. We moved on to the Parc Régional de la Forêt d Orient, and walked the forest trail to the south of Lac Temple. A pair of Marsh Tits were particularly obliging, and we heard a Black Woodpecker briefly calling and drumming a tantalising prospect for tomorrow! Then to our next hotel, a short drive away. Day 4 Monday 7th March Another frosty start and sunny day. The wind freshened quickly but eased by mid-afternoon At a local town a red kite flew low overhead and our morning was spent in the Forêt du Temple. Yesterday evening s Black Woodpecker failed to materialise. However, there was much activity early on, and later we found ourselves in a beautiful bit of woodland, where a pair of Middle Spotted Woodpeckers provided regular, excellent views over a long period we were clearly in a territory. There were recent tracks of Wild Boar and evidence of their activities, and we also saw several Coypu. Don found some unusual deer, thought to be introduced Sika. A visit to Lac d Orient and a chance encounter led to not just one but two adult White-tailed Eagles, seen in excellent light for a few minutes over woodland along the lakeshore. We then visited another area of the lake where a distant group of Smew was present, several groups of Common Cranes flew over and a Large Tortoiseshell butterfly flew by. We finished with a walk through another section of Forêt du Temple, with Middle Spotted Woodpecker calling and a distant Black Woodpecker again heard. Day 5 Tuesday 8th March An earlier breakfast allowed us to spend an hour in the Forêt du Temple to look again for woodland birds. Great and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers were present, and we heard two Black Woodpeckers drumming though neither was particularly close. Attempts to call the birds in were clearly none too convincing! 2 Naturetrek June 11

4 A final salute from a pair of Hawfinches and an obliging female Bullfinch, and it was time to leave; something of a wrench as it was a beautiful day again. As we drove, we saw a number of Common Crane flocks both flying and loitering in agricultural fields. A few Buzzards and Kestrels were noted, and large flocks of Lapwings (most with Starlings mixed in) gave way to large flocks of Wood Pigeons as we travelled north. We picked up some lunch en route, and stopped at a picnic area by St. Quentin. Time was tight in Lille, so we hopped aboard the Eurostar and were soon back across La Manche. We said our goodbyes at St Pancras, and went our separate ways savouring a wonderful trip. Receive our e-newsletter Join the Naturetrek ing list and be the first to hear about new tours, additional departures and new dates, tour reports and special offers. Visit to sign up. Naturetrek Facebook We are delighted to launch the Naturetrek Facebook page so that participants of Naturetrek tours can remain in touch after the holiday and share photos, comments and future travel plans. Setting up a personal profile at is quick, free and easy. The Naturetrek Facebook page is now live; do please pay us a visit! Naturetrek June 11 3

5 Species Lists Birds March Common name Scientific name Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Great Egret Egretta alba Mute Swan Cygnus olor Bewick's Swan Cygnus columbianus White-fronted Goose Anser albifrons 58 9 Greylag Goose Anser anser Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Northern Pintail Anas acuta Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope Gadwall Anas strepera Shoveler Anas clypeata Teal Anas crecca Red -crested Pochard Netta rufina 1 17 Pochard Aythya ferina Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Goldeneye Bucephala clangula 5 20 Smew Mergellus albellus 8 21 Goosander Mergus merganser 5 22 White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla 2 23 Red Kite Milvus milvus 2 24 Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Common Buzzard Buteo buteo Peregrine Falco peregrinus 1 27 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Moorhen Gallinula chloropus 2 29 Coot Fulica atra Crane Grus grus Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria 2 32 Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Ruff Philomachus pugnax 2 34 Curlew Numenius arquata 9 35 Dunlin Calidris alpina Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius Green Woodpecker Picus viridis Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus major Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus medius Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopus minor 1 46 Skylark Alauda arvensis White Wagtail Motacilla alba Naturetrek June 11

6 March Common name Scientific name Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea 1 49 Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta Wren Troglodytes troglodytes Dunnock Prunella modularis 1 52 Robin Erithacus rubecula Stonechat Saxicola torquata 1 54 Blackbird Turdus merula Redwing Turdus iliacus Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Goldcrest Regulus regulus Marsh Tit Parus palustris Willow Tit Parus montanus Blue Tit Parus caeruleus Great Tit Parus major Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus Nuthatch Sitta europaea Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla Starling Sturnus vulgaris Jay Garrulus glandarius Magpie Pica pica Jackdaw Corvus monedula Carrion Crow Corvus corone Rook Corvus frugilegus Tree Sparrow Passer montanus 2 72 House Sparrow Passer domesticus Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes Greenfinch Carduelis chloris Eurasian Siskin Carduelis spinus Linnet Acanthis cannabina Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus 2 1 Mammals 1 European Hare Lepus europaeus 2 2 Wild Boar Sus scrofa signs 3 European Roe Deer Capreolus capreolus Coypu Myocastor coypus 6 5 Muskrat Ondatra zibethicus 3 6 Sika Deer? Sika nippon 8 Butterflies 1 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni 1 2 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta 1 3 Large Tortoiseshell Nymphalis polychloris 1 Moths 1 Orange Underwing Archiearis parthenias 1 2 Black-spot Chestnut Conistra rubiginosa 1 Naturetrek June 11 5

7 Bees March Common name Scientific name Buff-tailed Bumblebee Bombus terrestis White-tailed Bumblebee Bombus lucorum 1 3 European Honeybee Apis mellifera European Pear Bee Osmia cornuta 1 5 Violet Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea 1 6 Solitary Bee Andrena spp 10 7 Solitary Bee ('wasp-bee') Nomada spp 2 Plants of note 1 Common Field Speedwell Veronica persica 2 Red Dead-nettle Lamium purpureum 3 Coltsfoot Tussilago farfara 4 Wood Anemone Anemone nemorosa 5 Bittercress Cardamine sp 6 Pussy Willow Salix caprea 6 Naturetrek June 11