WESTERN KENYA & THE MASAI MARA

Transcription

1 1 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 WESTERN KENYA & THE MASAI MARA Africa s Finest Bird & Wildlife Experience Saturday 29th October Friday 11th November 2011 (14 days) Leaders: Nik Borrow and local bird-guides Group Size Limit: 11 Tour Category: Easy Kenya! No superlatives are sufficient to do justice to this middle-sized country that straddles the Equator, for Kenya offers not just the best birding in Africa but probably the best birding on earth! The country is so rich in birds that it is impossible to do justice to its enormous avifauna in a single tour of two or three weeks, so we have two two itineraries (that can often be linked if desired) that provide the most comprehensive cover of Kenya offered by any bird tour company. This splendid tour to the northern and eastern regions of Kenya is deliberately positioned at one of the best times of year for seeing both Kenya s many avian specialities and numerous Palearctic migrants in mainly good weather conditions. Wonderful, easy birding, fantastic wildlife viewing and mostly good to excellent Lions (Nik Borrow) accommodations and food all add to the attractions. Almost 1100 species have already been recorded from this one country, far more than from any equivalent area on the continent. Kenya s remarkably rich avifauna is a direct consequence of a highly varied topography combined with an extraordinary diversity of climatic conditions and habitats (including virtually everything from dry savannas to verdant forests, from snowcapped volcanoes to rich grasslands, and from deserts to great lakes). Like some of the countries of South America, Kenya exhibits great changes in the composition of its birdlife over very short distances, but unlike much of South America birding here is delightfully easy, with many open and bird-rich habitats to enjoy. Whilst seeking the endemics, near-endemics and other regional specialities of the western and southwestern regions of this scenically spectacular country, we shall also encounter an extraordinary number of other bird species, including huge ostriches and tiny estrildid finches, a marvellous selection of birds of prey and waterbirds, strange-looking turacos, mousebirds, hornbills and barbets, gaudy starlings and weavers, confusing cisticolas, jewel-like sunbirds and much, much more besides. Not only can one observe a huge variety of birds here within a relatively small geographical area but, as is so often the case in Africa, it is such a pleasure to find so many species which are quite tame and remarkably approachable. Although this is a strongly bird-orientated safari, we hardly need to say that many of the best places for birds and mammals overlap and we shall certainly see plenty of the latter. For the birder, Kenya s mammalian riches are an additional attraction which turns a visit to this incomparable country from something which would already be one of the world s greatest birding experiences into something unique. We will travel in 4x4 Land Rovers or Toyota Landcruisers that have been specially adapted for safari work, with large roof hatches that make observation and photography easy. These vehicles are a huge improvement on the minibuses still used in Kenya by some bird tour companies, being more comfortable, more spacious (with a much larger opening in the roof) and, most importantly, far better able to cope with difficult road conditions. They cost a lot more than a minibus, and this must be reflected in the tour price, but we have never met anyone who did not consider these excellent vehicles as worth every extra penny! Our travels start at Nairobi, but we shall pause only briefly in the Kenyan capital before heading to a nearby well-forested escarpment whose leafy haven provides shelter for the elusive Abbott s Starling at one of its most regular localities. Descending into the Great Rift Valley, one cannot fail to be enthralled by the huge numbers of Lesser Flamingos that are usually present at Lake Nakuru. Greycrested Helmet-shrikes also occur in the park and we have our first opportunity to look for them here. A little further north, below a beautiful backdrop of imposing basalt cliffs, stretches Lake Baringo. The environs of the lake are home to some exciting specialities including Heuglin s Courser, Hemprich s and Jackson s Hornbills, and Northern Masked Weaver. Moving still further west,

2 2 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 we come to the verdant landscapes of western Kenya where we shall visit the birdrich Kakamega Forest. As well as sharing many exciting species with the forests of Central Africa, these luxuriant forests are also home to Turner s Eremomela, Uganda Woodland Warbler and Blueheaded Bee-eater, species that can all be difficult to find elsewhere. An interesting days birding will take us through areas of humid grassland and cultivation with scattered trees that hold a number of western Kenyan specialities, while an overnight stop by the shores of Lake Victoria should produce the colourful Papyrus Gonolek and other lakeside species more normally associated with Uganda. The highlight of our safari will surely be our visit to the rolling grasslands of the Masai Mara, Kenya s finest wildlife reserve and a superb birding locality in its own right. It is also the best place in the country in which to enjoy the magnificent spectacle of the herds of gnus (or wildebeest), zebras and gazelles and their attendant carnivores (Lions, Cheetahs and Leopards), much celebrated in the television programme Big Cat Diary. Leaving the Mara, we Sharpe s Longclaw (Nik Borrow) shall make an effort to find Karamoja Apalis, a littleknown species only recently discovered to occur in Kenya. Lake Naivasha is a wellsituated base to explore the Aberdare National Park. The attractive Sharpe s Longclaw can be found on the lower slopes and in the park itself we shall look for Jackson s Francolin, Aberdare Cisticola and Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird. After we return to Nairobi, a final day out along the Magadi road will give us a superb variety of thornbush birds, including a good chance of the interesting local form of the Pringle s Puffback. By the time we have to return home we will have watched an almost unbelievable variety of birds, including many specialities, and numerous mammals amidst some wonderful scenery. Birdquest has operated tours to Kenya since Itinerary Day 1 The tour begins this evening at Nairobi, where we stay overnight. Day 2 This morning we will visit a patch of verdant forest on the Kikuyu Escarpment that is a known haunt for Abbott s Starling, a littleknown frugivorus Eastern African endemic that is restricted to highland forest canopy in Kenya and northern Tanzania. Its tiny population is thought to be declining all over its range but we stand a fair chance of being able to locate this rare species at this site. Sharpe s Starlings with their wind-chime tinkling calls can also be found here feeding quietly amongst any fruiting trees. The delightful but extremely secretive Abyssinian Crimson-wing may be found here grovelling in the undergrowth along with Yellow-bellied Waxbills. Colourful Bar-tailed Trogon, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Northern Double-collared Sunbird, Montane Oriole and Black-fronted Bush-shrike are veritable jewels of this forest to be sought out and enjoyed. With a flash of brilliant red in its wings, the exotic Hartlaub s Turaco can be seen bouncing through the canopy. We have a chance of locating the reclusive Barred Longtailed Cuckoo if we should hear one calling nearby. Skulking Evergreen Forest and Cinnamon Bracken Warblers can infuriate with their loud voices whilst still remain hidden but the pretty Whitestarred Robin, diminutive White-browed Crombec, Brown Woodland Warbler and Chestnut-throated Apalis with its trim-phone call are all usually easier to see. Sightings of Yellow-whiskered, Olivebreasted Mountain (split from Eastern Mountain) and Placid Greenbuls will introduce themselves as representatives of this confusing group to us. Other species to look for in this refreshingly cool and leafy haven include Steppe (split from Common), Mountain and Augur Buzzards, Tambourine Dove, Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, African Emerald Cuckoo, Mottled Swift, White-headed Wood-hoopoe, Moustached Green and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbirds, Fine-banded and Cardinal Woodpeckers, Red-rumped Swallow, Black Saw-wing, Dark-capped Bulbul, African Hill Babbler, Rüppell s Robin-chat, Mountain (split from Olive) Thrush, African Dusky and White-eyed Slaty Flycatchers, Grey and Blackthroated Apalises, Montane White-eye, White-bellied Tit, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, Chin-spot Batis, Tropical Boubou, Blackbacked Puffback, Grey Cuckoo-shrike, Spectacled and Brown-capped Weavers, Rufous-backed Mannikin, Streaky and Thick-billed Seedeaters and Yellowcrowned Canary. In the afternoon, after a picnic lunch, we will drive northwest to the amazing and spectacular Lake Nakuru National Park for an overnight stay at a comfortable lodge inside the park. Day 3 Lake Nakuru is perhaps the most famous of the Rift Valley bird lakes. Surrounded by attractive mature yellow fever trees and arid hills peppered with candelabra euphorbias, the lake often holds spectacular concentrations of Lesser Flamingos and smaller numbers of Greater Flamingos. Our hotel garden can be a good place to look for Hildebrandt s Francolin and Red-throated Wryneck. Red-headed Weavers build their long tunnel-entrance nests here, Mocking Cliff Chats can often be seen hopping on the roofs of the chalets whilst Arrow-marked and Black-lored Babblers squabble from the bushes. At night Montane Nightjar may be heard calling. The trees and scrub surrounding the lake provide a home for Black, Red-chested, Klaas s and Diederik Cuckoos, Speckled Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, Broad-billed Roller, Green Wood-hoopoe, Greater and Scaly-throated Honeyguides, African Greyheaded Woodpecker, Spotted Flycatcher, Willow Warbler,

3 3 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 Grey-backed Camaroptera, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Red-faced Crombec, African Paradise Flycatcher, Common Wattle-eye, Black-crowned and Browncrowned Tchagras, Northern Puffback, Black Cuckooshrike, Common Drongo, Black-headed Oriole, Rüppell s Long-tailed Starling, Amethyst Sunbird, Speke s and Baglafecht Weavers, Redbilled and African Firefinches, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Common Waxbill. There is a chance for Little Rock Thrush and roving flocks of helmet-shrikes can contain both White and the highly desirable Grey-crested (and apparent hybrids). In the grasslands and open areas we will look for Coqui Francolin, Helmeted Guineafowl, Long-crested Eagle, Lilac-breasted Roller, African Hoopoe, Whitefronted Bee-eater, Grassland and Plain-backed Pipits, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Whinchat, Schalow s (split from Abyssinian Black) Wheatear, Northern Anteater Chat, Winding, Rattling and Pectoral-patch Cisticolas, Pied Crow and Red-billed Oxpecker. In the skies overhead we should keep an eye open for Nyanza, Leopard (Nik Borrow) White-rumped, Horus and Little Swifts, Plain and Rock Martins, Barn Swallow and the impressive Mosque Swallow. At various lookout points around the vast shallow soda lake we will scan through the thronged masses of waterbirds trying to pick out species such as Little and occasionally Black-necked and Great Crested Grebes, Great White and Pink-backed Pelicans, White-breasted (split from Great) and Longtailed Cormorants, Western Cattle, Little, Yellow-billed and Great Egrets, Squacco and Grey Herons, Hamerkop, Yellow-billed Stork, Sacred and Glossy Ibises, African Spoonbill, Egyptian Goose, Yellow-billed Duck, Redbilled, Hottentot and Cape Teals, Northern Shoveler, Southern Pochard, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, African Fish Eagle, Red-knobbed Coot, Greater Painted Snipe, Pied Avocet, Black-winged Stilt, Blacksmith, Crowned, Common Ringed and Kittlitz s Plovers, Little Stint, Curlew, Marsh, Terek, Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers, Ruff, Common Greenshank, Lesser Black-backed (of the Baltic form), Black-headed and Grey-headed Gulls, Gullbilled, Whiskered and Whitewinged Terns, Pied Kingfisher, Blue-headed Wagtail and Red-throated Pipit. Nakuru is one of the best places in Kenya for seeing Leopard, but even so, we will need some luck if we are to come across one during our short visit. There are however, plenty of other large mammals at Nakuru, including Lion and a healthy population of introduced White Rhinoceros. In the afternoon we shall drive further north looking out for Dark Chanting Goshawk, Black-headed Lapwing and Grey-backed Fiscal along the way towards Lake Baringo and a wonderfully situated lakeside hotel for a two nights stay where huge Hippopotamuses often graze on the lawns outside of our chalets at night. Day 4 Lake Baringo is idyllically situated against a dramatic basalt cliff in a dry, rocky countryside clothed in acacia woodland and is the haunt of a number of avian specialities. Even today, this is still a rather remote region and the local inhabitants, who fish from primitive reed boats on the lake, seem little touched by the modern world. During our stay, we will explore the lakeshore, the surrounding bush country and the sheer cliffs that rise up suddenly to the west of the lake. The area provides our only chance to see the restricted range Jackson s Hornbill that is fortunately common here and the highly localized Northern Masked Weaver that at this season breeds by the lake alongside attractive Jackson s Golden-backed Weavers. Both species frequently visit the bird table at breakfast time along with many African Mourning Doves, Redand-yellow Barbet, Rufous Chatterer, Spotted Morning Thrush and White-billed Buffalo Weavers. Northern Red Bishops frequent the lakeside and when they are displaying the males seem like animated scarlet fireballs. On the cliff face, we shall search out Brown-tailed Rock Chat, Hemprich s Hornbill, the resident rufescens race of Common Kestrel, Lanner Falcon, Fan-tailed Raven and the wonderful Bristle-crowned Starling with its pompadour hairstyle. With the help of a well organised team of local guides we should find some nocturnal birds in daylight as they boys normally know exactly where to find roosting or even nesting Heuglin s Courser, Slender-tailed Nightjar and Northern Whitefaced Owl. We may even find one or both of the larger owl species, namely Greyish and Verreaux s Eagle Owls. Elsewhere in the garden and along the lake shore we shall look for Black-crowned Night Heron, Little and Dwarf Bitterns, Green-backed, Purple and Goliath Herons, Woollynecked and Marabou Storks, Hadada Ibis, Fulvous and White-faced Whistling Ducks, Spur-winged Goose, Knobbilled Duck, Gabar Goshawk, Shikra, Black Crake, African Jacana, Spur-winged and Long-toed Plovers, Emeraldspotted Wood Dove, Redeyed, Ring-necked, Namaqua and Laughing Doves, Speckled Pigeon, Brown Parrot, White-bellied Go-away Bird, White-browed Coucal, Pearlspotted Owlet, Blue-naped Mousebird, Grey-headed, Woodland, Malachite, African Pygmy and Giant Kingfishers, Eurasian and Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters, Rufous-crowned Roller, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Northern Red-billed, Eastern Yellow-billed and African Grey Hornbills, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Red-fronted and D Arnaud s Barbets, Lesser Honeyguide, Nubian and Bearded Woodpeckers, Sand Martin, Northern Brownbul, Brown Babbler, White-browed Robin Chat, White-browed Scrub Robin, Southern Black, African Grey and Lead-coloured Flycatchers, Lesser Swamp and Sedge Warblers, Pale Prinia, Grey

4 4 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 Wren Warbler, Brown-tailed (split from Yellow-breasted) Apalis, Red-fronted and Buff-bellied Warblers, Yellowbellied Eremomela, Northern Grey Tit, Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit, Pygmy Batis, Northern White-crowned, Red-backed and Red-tailed Shrikes, Brubru, Threestreaked Tchagra, Sulphurbreasted and Grey-headed Bush-shrikes, Slate-coloured Boubou, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Blue-eared, Superb and Wattled Starlings, Eastern Violet-backed, Hunter s and Beautiful Sunbirds, Parrot-billed and Chestnut Sparrows, Yellow-spotted Petronia, White-headed Buffalo-weaver, White-browed Sparrow-weaver, Specklefronted, Little, Vitelline Masked, Lesser Masked and Black-headed Weavers, Green-winged Pytilia, Purple Grenadier, Crimson-rumped and Black-cheeked Waxbills, Pin-tailed Whydah, Whitebellied Canary and Somali Golden-breasted Bunting. Occasionally if conditions are right Allen s Gallinule, Purple Swamphen or Senegal Thickknees put in an appearance. Day 5 Today we will drive to Kakamega Forest for a three nights stay, first crossing the Kerio Valley. The scrubby slopes of this deep valley here provide habitat for the stunning White-crested Turaco, Crowned Hornbill, Spot-flanked Barbet, Tawnyflanked Prinia, Green-backed Great Blue Turaco (Nik Borrow) Eremomela, Northern Black, Pale and Gambaga Flycatchers, the beautiful Silverbird, Western Blackheaded Batis, Violet-backed Starling, Marico Sunbird, Chestnut-crowned Sparrowweaver, Reichenow s (Yellowrumped) Seedeater and Golden-breasted Bunting. Common Scimitarbill and Black-headed Gonolek can be found in the valley bottom and as we climb out from the other side Boran Cisticolas call from the vegetation and African Black Swifts may be seen overhead as well as Red-winged Starling or the occasional White-naped Raven. Along the route some marshy areas are always worth checking for Levaillant s (or Tinkling) Cisticola, African Stonechat, Common Fiscal, Cape Rook, Fan-tailed Widowbird and Zebra Waxbill. We should arrive at the superbly situated and extremely comfortable Rondo Retreat set in beautiful gardens at the edge of the forest in the late afternoon. Days 6-7 Kakamega Forest is a unique area of evergreen forest near the western frontier of Kenya. The flora and fauna of the forest is closely akin to that of the Central African rainforests and many of the birds found here are at the easternmost point of their distribution. Birding amongst the huge trees and dense undergrowth can be hard work, for many of the forest birds are very shy. Sometimes the forest seems quite empty, but all such thoughts are forgotten when a feeding party is found. Then the problem is identifying everything before the birds move on. The day typically begins with an impressive dawn chorus. Huge Black-and-white-casqued Hornbills noisily leave their roosts and ridiculously topknotted Great Blue Turacos emit their distinctive guttural cries from high inside the canopy. Out on the dead snags, silhouetted against the sky, sit Grey-throated Barbets with their startling pale eyes and strange nasal tufts. They are sometimes joined by Stuhlmann s Starlings, while attractive White-headed Saw-wings fly overhead. Our attentions will soon turn, however, to the skulking birds of the undergrowth. The persistent squeak of Blackfaced Rufous Warblers and the joyful duets of Chubb s Cisticolas are commonly heard sounds at Kakamega, but we will also be hoping for such secretive species as Brown-chested Alethe and Brown, Scaly-breasted and Grey-chested Illadopsises to betray their presence by their whistled calls. The two main target species of the forest are Uganda Woodland Warbler and Turner s Eremomela, and we shall be listening for their calls and scanning the canopy in order find these charming little warblers. Western Banded Snake Eagle, Ayres s Hawk Eagle and Grey Parrot occasionally put in an appearance and during our two full days with some perseverance and a modicum of luck we should also be able to find several of the other more elusive specialities of Kakamega, such as Scaly Francolin, Crested Guineafowl, White-spotted Flufftail, Black-billed Turaco, Red-chested Owlet, Blueheaded Bee-eater, Cassin s Honeybird, African Broadbill, Equatorial Akalat, Least Honeyguide, Grey-winged Robin, Blue-shouldered and Snowy-headed Robin Chats, Chapin s Flycatcher, Green Hylia, Southern Hyliota, Pale-breasted and Mountain Illadopsises, Dusky Crested Flycatcher, Jameson s, Chestnut and Yellow-bellied Wattle-eyes, Bocage s Bushshrike, Velvet-mantled Drongo and Oriole Finch. Greenbuls are a feature of the forest and we shall be aiming to identify Red-tailed Bristlebill, Cameroon Sombre, Little Grey, Ansorge s, Slenderbilled, Kakamega (split from Shelley s), Cabanis s, Toro Olive, Honeyguide and Joyful Greenbuls. At this time of year, migrant Eurasian Honey Buzzard, Grey Wagtail, Tree Pipit, Blackcap and Garden Warbler join the resident species. Other species we may well find here include African Harrier Hawk, African Goshawk, Great Sparrowhawk, African Green Pigeon, Blue-spotted Wood Dove, Levaillant s Cuckoo, Blue Yellowbill, Whitethroated Bee-eater, Yellowspotted, Streaky-throated (split from Hairy-breasted) and Yellow-billed Barbets, Thickbilled Honeyguide, Yellowcrested, Buff-spotted and Brown-eared Woodpeckers, African Pied and Mountain Wagtails, White-tailed Ant Thrush, African Thrush, Blackfaced (split from Banded) and White-chinned Prinias, Olive-green Camaroptera, Buff-throated and Blackcollared Apalises, Yellow White-eye, Dusky Tit, Ashy and African Blue Flycatchers, African Shrike Flycatcher, Mackinnon s Fiscal, Lühder s Bush Shrike, Pink-footed Puffback, Petit s and Purplethroated Cuckoo-shrikes, Square-tailed Drongo, Western Black-headed Oriole, Green, Collared, Western Olive, Green-throated, Greenheaded, Scarlet-chested and Bronze Sunbirds, Greyheaded Sparrow, Black-billed, Black-necked, Vieillot s Black and Dark-backed Weavers, Red-headed Malimbe, Grey-

5 5 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 headed and White-breasted Negrofinches, Red-headed Bluebill, Black-crowned Waxbill, Black-and-white Mannikin and Southern Citril. Large mammals such as Guereza Colobus, Red-tailed Monkey and the blue form of the Gentle Monkey can also be seen in the forest. Day 8 Leaving Kakamega and heading further west towards the Ugandan border we shall stop at a river crossing where Rock Pratincole and Angola Swallow can be found and then continue through an interesting area of cultivation and open grassland with patches of scrub and scattered trees that border the small streams where a number of species that just creep into western Kenya can be found. Our time is short and the day heats up quickly in this more humid area but we will look for Black-shouldered and Yellow-billed (split from Black) Kites, Brown Snake Eagle, Wahlberg s Eagle, Eurasian Hobby, Ross s Turaco, Senegal Coucal, African Palm Swift, Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Double-toothed Barbet, Grey Woodpecker, Lesser Striped Swallow, Common House Martin, Little Greenbul, Yellow-throated Leaflove, African Moustached, Broadtailed and Dark-capped Grey Crowned Cranes (Michael Hodgson) Yellow Warblers, Red-faced, Singing, Whistling, Croaking, Siffling and Zitting Cisticolas, Grey-capped Warbler, Redshouldered Cuckoo-shrike, Olive-bellied and Copper Sunbirds, Grosbeak, Compact and Holub s Golden Weavers, Cardinal Quelea, Black and Black-winged Red Bishops, Hartlaub s Marsh and Yellowmantled Widowbirds, Fawnbreasted Waxbill, Bar-breasted Firefinch, Bronze Mannikin, Cuckoo-finch (or Parasitic Weaver), Village Indigobird and Brimstone Canary. If we are lucky, we will encounter one or more of the scarcer inhabitants of the area such as Western Banded Snake Eagle, Red-headed Lovebird, Speckle-breasted Woodpecker, Brown-backed Scrub Robin, Green Crombec, Marsh Tchagra, Purple-banded and Superb Sunbirds, Black-bellied Firefinch, Black-rumped and Black-faced Waxbills or Locust Finch. Our destination will be the town of Kisumu situated on the edge of Lake Victoria for an overnight stay. We shall arrive in the late afternoon and as the sun sets over the lake sometimes African Hobby can be seen from the hotel. Day 9 The remaining stands of papyrus around the lake in the Kisumu area get smaller and more degraded every year but they are still home to a selection of species that are otherwise only easily seen in neighbouring Uganda. We stand a good chance of finding Carruthers s Cisticola, Papyrus Gonolek, the brilliant Redchested Sunbird, Northern Brown-throated Weaver and if we are very fortunate Papyrus Canary but with loss of habitat species such as White-winged Warbler and Papyrus Yellow Warbler have now become increasingly harder if not impossible to find here. Other likely species in this area include Black-headed Heron, African Open-billed Stork, Eastern Grey Plantain-eater, Blue-headed Coucal, Blackbilled Barbet, Wire-tailed Swallow, Swamp Flycatcher, African Reed and Greater Swamp Warblers, Slenderbilled and Yellow-backed Weavers and Yellow-fronted Canary. From Kisumu we shall head south via some rice fields where surprises can always turn up and we may see Egyptian Goose, African Marsh Harrier, Grey Crowned Crane, Collared Pratincole, Little Rush Warbler and Southern Red and Yellow-crowned Bishops. Our destination is the Masai Mara where our three nights stay is divided between two very comfortable tented safari camps. As we drive steadily through the intensely populated and cultivated countryside, it will be a wonderful sight as the landscape opens out enabling panoramic views and we begin to see the first Masai with their cattle an evocative sight that stirs memories of an older Africa. These great grasslands are a natural northwards extension of the Serengeti plains and as we near the Mara we shall see the first herds of antelopes. Days The Masai Mara Game Reserve (usually referred to simply as The Mara ) is Kenya s richest wildlife reserve and at any time of year the Mara offers a wonderful wildlife spectacle. All the usual plains mammals occur here, including large numbers of African Elephant, African Buffalo, Common Warthog, Masai Giraffe perhaps with a Yellow-billed Oxpecker clinging to its neck, Brindled Gnu (or Blue Wildebeeste), Waterbuck, Topi, Kongoni (or Hartebeeste), Impala, Grant s and Red-fronted (or Thomson s) Gazelles, and Common Zebra. We may also find Black-backed Jackal, the delightful Bat-eared Fox, Banded Mongoose and the hulking Spotted Hyaena. In most years, from about July to October, there is a vast migration of gnus (or wildebeest), zebras and their attendant carnivores into the Mara from the adjoining Serengeti plains in Tanzania. At these times, the Mara is even more amazing than usual, with veritable rivers of animals flowing across the White-bellied Bustard (Nik Borrow)

6 6 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 plains. Things should have calmed down substantially by the time of our visit but there should still be plenty of game to be seen. This is undoubtedly the best place in Kenya for seeing carnivores and we can expect to enjoy some marvellously close encounters with Lions, perhaps watching a pride snoozing under some bushes whilst the cubs play amongst the Lionesses. For many people, the Mara s famous Cheetahs are an even bigger draw than the Lions, for their languid grace and extraordinary burst of speed when hunting gazelles is something to behold. We will certainly spend some time tracking down these beautiful cats in their favourite haunts, perhaps coming across one stealing softly through the tawny grass or even watching a hunt. Leopards as always are difficult and often elusive but we may be lucky. With the predator activity there are usually carcasses around to attract gatherings of hissing and squawking vultures and we should look out for Hooded, African White-backed, Rüppell s Griffon, Lappet-faced and White-headed Vultures. We shall begin our birding around the lodge and on the Oloololo escarpment and as this is just outside the park boundary, we can explore Cheetah (Michael Hodgson) on foot. In the wooded areas we shall be looking for the spectacular Schalow s Turaco with its amazing spiky crest as well as Narina Trogon, Olive Pigeon and Green-backed and perhaps even Golden-tailed Woodpeckers. The view from the escarpment is nothing less than awe-inspiring and in the grassland dotted with sparse bushes we shall attempt to find East African endemics such as Usambiro Barbet, Foxy Lark, Red-throated Tit, Hildebrandt s Starling and Swahili and Kenya Rufous Sparrows as well as Little Beeeater, Bare-faced Go-away Bird, White-headed Barbet, Flappet and Rufous-naped Larks, Long-billed Pipit, Red-tailed and Sooty Chats, Trilling, Rock and Long-tailed Cisticolas, Pale Wren-Warbler, Green-capped Eremomela, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Variable Sunbird, Yellow Bishop, and Cinnamonbreasted Rock Bunting. Moving into the reserve and hence now confined to the vehicles we will visit a swamp surrounded by a sea of grass where we will be looking for Rufous-bellied Heron, Saddlebilled Stork, African Water Rail, Three-banded Plover and African Wattled Plover. Common Ostriches, Secretary Bird and the huge and grotesque Southern Ground Hornbill may all be seen striding across the surrounding grasslands that shelter Harlequin Quail, Red-necked Spurfowl, White-bellied and Black-bellied Bustards, Senegal and Black-winged Plovers, the localized Whitetailed Lark, Red-capped Lark, Fischer s Sparrow Lark, Rosybreasted Longclaw, Northern, Pied and Isabelline Wheatears, Stout and Croaking Cisticolas, African Quailfinch, and Jackson s, Yellow-mantled and Red-collared Widowbirds. At this time of year Caspian Plovers make an appearance but their numbers and exact locations are erratic from year to year. Banded Martins and Rufous-chested Swallows skim low over the plains and in the skies a variety of raptors include Black-chested Snake Eagle, Bateleur, Pallid and Montagu s Harriers, Lesser Spotted, Tawny and Steppe Eagles, Grey Kestrel and if we are lucky maybe even an Ovambo Sparrowhawk. Our last night will be spent at a lodge at the eastern end of the reserve whose grounds provide shelter for African Scops Owl. Southern Tree Hyrax and the delightful Silver Galago also occur. Both Mara lodges organise their own night drives lasting approximately an hour and a half at a cost of about $25. Because of the nature of the long Birdquest days and the variable results that these drives produce (you can sometimes end up seeing very little), they are optional and not included in the price of the tour, but can be arranged upon arrival at the lodge if anyone is interested. Participants will be accompanied by the Birdquest leader. There are absolutely no certainties, but possibilities include Spotted Thick-knee, Gabon and Dusky Nightjars and nocturnal mammals such as the extraordinary Spring Hare (which bounds along more like a wallaby than a rodent), White-tailed Mongoose and Common Genet. Lucky participants have even very occasionally seen mammals such as Caracal and even the retiring Aardvark. Day 12 After some early morning birding at the edge of the Mara we will drive to Naivasha. The scrubby habitat near the lodge gives us another chance of seeing Grey-crested Helmet-shrike and it is a good place for finding Buff-bellied (split from African) Penduline Tit and Magpie Shrike. As we head across the degraded plains we should keep an eye open for Two-banded and Temminck s Coursers, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, flocks of Athi (split from Somali) Short-toed Two-banded Coursers (Michael Hodgson)

7 7 Birdquest Detailed Tour Itinerary: Western Kenya & The Masai Mara 2011 Lark and Capped Wheatear. We shall make a stop in a bushy area where Karamoja Apalis has been recently discovered in the country. Our chances of finding this littleknown rarity may only be slim but we can also look for Greycapped Social Weaver and Southern Grosbeak-Canary in the same habitat. The wideopen plains of the Kedong Valley are often good for Kori Bustard, Egyptian Vulture, Greater Kestrel, Mottled Swift and Grey-rumped Swallow. We may be lucky and find a roosting Spotted Eagle Owl. We shall spend the night in a lakeside hotel at Naivasha. Day 13 The day begins in the hotel grounds watching the sun rise slowly over the lake. After breakfast, we will leave on a road that winds gently up into the mountains. The natural habitat of tussock grassland is fast disappearing under cultivation but this is the required habitat of the endemic Sharpe s Longclaw. We shall stop when we find a suitable area and make a concerted effort to locate this rare bird. The same habitat is shared by Ayres s Cisticola and Long-tailed Widowbird. Driving higher still, we shall eventually enter the Aberdares National Park. The air up here is clear and the scenery astounding. Along the roadside, we will keep a watchful eye out for the nearendemic Jackson s Francolin that is usually quite tolerant of our vehicles. We shall be making a special effort to find the endemic Aberdare Cisticola and although this species is quite common, it can be skulking at times. We should also find the stunning Golden-winged Sunbird as well as Eastern Double-collared, Tacazze and Malachite Sunbirds and if we are lucky the high altitude Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird. Alpine Chats are confiding and easy to see and other species to look for include Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Dusky Turtle Dove, Scarce Swift, Cape Wagtail, Cape Robin Chat, Abyssinian Ground Thrush, Chiffchaff, Hunter s Cisticola, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Slender-billed Starling and Kandt s (split from Blackheaded) Waxbill. On the way back to Nairobi for an overnight stay, we shall stop at some small ponds that often hold Maccoa Duck and Common Moorhen. Day 14 Today we will drive over the Ngong Hills where we shall look for Lynes s Cisticola and Pringle s Puffback and then down through some impressive whistling-thorn habitat along the road towards Lake Magadi. The day will give us yet another chance for the rather elusive Grey-crested Helmet-shrike as well as a fantastic selection of thornbush and dry country birds such as Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Crested Francolin, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Buffcrested Bustard, Chestnutbellied and Black-faced Sandgrouse, Black-and-white Cuckoo, Eurasian Roller, Von der Decken s Hornbill, Blackthroated Barbet, Singing Bush Lark, Short-tailed Lark, Scaly Chatterer, Bare-eyed Thrush, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Common Whitethroat, Tiny, Ashy and Desert Cisticolas, Banded Parisoma, Abyssinian White-eye, Long-tailed and Taita Fiscals, Rosy-patched Bush-shrike, Red-billed Buffalo-weaver, Layard s (split from Village) Weaver, Chestnut Weaver, Red-billed Quelea, White-winged Widowbird, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, African and Grey-headed Silverbills, Cut-throat Finch and Steel-blue, Straw-tailed and Paradise Whydahs. After dinner we will head for Nairobi airport, where the tour ends this evening. Accommodation & Road Transport: The hotels/lodges are of normal Birdquest standard throughout and are often wonderfully situated and of a very high quality. We will be using specially adapted, roomy 4x4 Land Rovers or Toyota Landcruisers with large open hatches for wildlife viewing. Road conditions are very variable. Walking: The walking effort is easy throughout. Walking is restricted to a few specified areas in the national parks/ game reserves. This is of little hindrance and indeed we can approach many large birds and mammals far more closely in a vehicle than we could on foot. Everywhere else we are free to walk as much as we wish. Climate: Most days at low and moderate altitudes are warm or hot, dry and sunny, Golden-winged Sunbirds (Nik Borrow) although it is sometimes warm or cool and overcast. At the highest altitudes in the Aberdares conditions range from cool to quite cold. There may be some rain at times. Bird/Mammal Photography: Opportunities are very good. Linking Birdquests: This tour can be linked with Northern & Eastern Kenya in Please contact us for further information.