Medieval Weave Structures

Transcription

1 Medieval Weave Structures Each of these weave structures is taken from an extant pre-17 th century textile. When possible I have attempted to give some examples of when and where this textile can be found, however these are examples only and are not to be taken as an exhaustive list. The samples are woven in 8/2 unmercerized cotton to better display the difference in weave. Half of the sample is woven with a contrasting weft to better show the interlacement of threads. Twill Variations 1. 2/2 chevron 2. 2/1 chevron 3. 3/1 chevron 4. 2/2 broken chevron 5. 2/2 lozenge 6. 2/1 lozenge 7. 3/1 lozenge 8. 2/2 broken lozenge 9. 2/2 broken (kreuzkoper) 10. 2/1 ribbed twill (rippenkoper) 11. 3/1 ribbed twill (rippenkoper) 12. Rosette twill (rosettenkoper) 13. Irregular Broken Twill 1

2 1. 2/2 Chevron Twill Chevron twill is produced when the threading of the warp is changed, which reverses the direction of the twill diagonal. This creates a horizontal zig-zag effect. 2/2 chevron twill is common for linen textiles in the Roman West and Eastern Mediterranean in the 1 st through 4 th centuries. It can also be found in Northern Europe from the 8 th century until the 12 th century. 2/2 chevron twill is also found in linen household textiles of the 15 th and 16 th century. 2

3 2. 2/1 Chevron Twill Chevron twill is produced when the threading of the warp is changed, which reverses the direction of the twill diagonal. This creates a horizontal zig-zag effect. Examples of linen 2/1 chevron twill have been found at Sutton Hoo (7 th c. Anglo Saxon), and in wool in 8 th century Germany. 3

4 3. 3/1 Chevron Twill Chevron twill is produced when the threading of the warp is changed, which reverses the direction of the twill diagonal. This creates a horizontal zig-zag effect. Woolen 3/1 chevron twill textiles have been found in 6th or early 7th century France. 4

5 4. 2/2 Broken Chevron Twill Chevron twill is produced when the threading of the warp is changed, which reverses the direction of the twill diagonal. This creates a horizontal zig-zag effect. In a broken chevron twill, the threading is also displaced at the reversal points, causing a break in the chevron pattern. 2/2 broken chevron twill can be found in Northern Europe from the 8 th century until the 12 th century. 5

6 5. 2/2 Lozenge (Diamond) Twill Lozenge twill is produced when the treadling direction is reversed as well as the warp threading. This produced alternate reversals in the twill direction and created diamond patterns in the textile. 2/2 lozenge twill is common for linen textiles in the Roman West and Eastern Mediterranean in the 1 st through 4 th centuries. 2/2 chevron twill is also found in linen household textiles of the 15 th and 16 th century. 6

7 6. 2/1 Lozenge (Diamond) Twill Lozenge twill is produced when the treadling direction is reversed as well as the warp threading. This produced alternate reversals in the twill direction and created diamond patterns in the textile. This textile type commonly associated with 10 th century Birka. It is also found in English textiles from the 10 th century until the 13 th century. 7

8 7. 3/1 Lozenge (Diamond) Twill Lozenge twill is produced when the treadling direction is reversed as well as the warp threading. This produced alternate reversals in the twill direction and created diamond patterns in the textile. 3/1 lozenge twill is only occasionally found, such as in a 13 th century linen mitre. 8

9 8. 2/2 Broken Lozenge (Diamond) Twill Lozenge twill is produced when the treadling direction is reversed as well as the warp threading. This produced alternate reversals in the twill direction and created diamond patterns in the textile.. In a broken chevron twill, the threading is also displaced at the reversal points, causing a break in the pattern. 2/2 broken lozenge twill is commonly associated with Norse and Anglo-Saxon textiles, and this weave was common throughout the 5 th through 11 th centuries in Northern Europe, usually in wool though occasionally in linen. 9

10 9. 2/2 Broken Twill (Kreuzkoper) Broken twill is produced when the twill weave is reversed and broken every two threads. 2/2 broken twill can be found occasionally from the 8 th century through the 12 th century in Northern Europe and Scandinavia, though it is never common. 10

11 10. 2/1 Ribbed Twill (Rippenkoper) A ribbed twill is produced when rows of 2/1 twill are alternated with rows of 1/2 twill. The difference in warpfaced and weft-faced weave structures produced a ribbed effect. Ribbed twill textiles are known in 5 th - 7 th century northern Europe, and 7 th century Scandinavia. Some 11 th century Latvian examples have been found and ribbed twill textiles have also been discovered in Roman Era Egypt. 11

12 11. 3/1 Ribbed Twill (Rippenkoper) A ribbed twill is produced when rows of 2/1 twill are alternated with rows of ½ twill. The difference in warpfaced and weft-faced weave structures produced a ribbed effect. Almost all ribbed twill textiles woven as a 2/1 ribbed twill, however a 3/1 ribbed twill textile has been discovered in Roman Era Egypt. 12

13 12. Rosette Twill (Rosettenkoper) Rosette twill is a 2/2 lozenge twill with doubled warp threads at 1 and 4. Almost all rosette twill textiles are from 6 th 7 th century Germany. 13

14 13. Irregular Broken Twill An irregular twill has floats of varying lengths, breaking up the twill pattern. In a broken twill the threading is also displaced, causing a break in the pattern. This draft is based on a late 15 th century chasuble in the Victoria & Albert Museum (item no. 1478A-1899). Because of its linen warp and cotton weft this textile is known as fustian. Such fustian textiles were commonly used for domestic textiles, linings, and outerwear for the middle classes. 14

15 References Benton, Janetta Rebold. Materials, methods, and masterpieces of medieval art. Santa Barbara, Calif.: Praeger, Print. Crowfoot, Elisabeth, and Frances Pritchard. Textiles and clothing, c.1150-c Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK: Boydell, Print. Jenkins, D. T.. The Cambridge history of western textiles. Cambridge, U.K.: Cambridge University Press, Print. Magoula, Olga. Usage and meaning of early medieval textiles. A structural analysis of vestimentary systems in Francia and Anglo-Saxon England. Birmingham: The University of Birmingham, Print. Ottaway, Patrick, and Nicola S. H. Rogers. Craft, industry and everyday life: finds from medieval York. York: Council for British Archaeology, Print. Ottaway, Patrick, and Nicola S. H. Rogers. Craft, industry and everyday life: finds from medieval York. York: Council for British Archaeology, Print. Priest-Dorman, Carolyn. "2/1 Twills: Rippenköper." Complex Weavers' Medieval Textiles 25 (2000): 4-6. Complex Weavers' Medieval Textiles. Web. 11 Feb Priest-Dorman, Carolyn. "An Irregular Fustian Weave." Complex Weavers' Medieval Textiles 37 (2003): 1, 8. Complex Weavers' Medieval Textiles. Web. 16 Jan Smith, Michele Hayeur. "The Textile Collection from the 1988 Bessastaðir Excavation." Bessastaðarannsókn II Kirkjugarður og miðaldaminjar, uppgraftarsvæði Reykjavík 2013 Þjóðminjasafn 2 (2013): n. pag. Academia.edu. Web. 31 Jan "The Clare Chasuble." (Chasuble). N.p., n.d. Web. 27 Feb < 15