What Is Honba Yuki-Tsumugi? Jibata Tochigi

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1 What Is Honba Yuki-Tsumugi? The creation of Honba Yuki-Tsumugi is a process that involves using one's whole body to weave floss silk from 80 thousand points of Kasuri-shibari with the use of a Jibata. Though it may appear unsophisticated at first glance, the fabric is the product of unimaginable expert techniques. Production Area : Oyama City, Tochigi; and Yuki City, Ibaraki. Area Map Route 4 New- Route 4 Route 294 Ibaraki Jibata Tochigi Kinu River Route 50 JR Mito JR UtsunomiyaMito Oyama- Station Yuki- Kokai River Tukubaneno Shinkuwamayono Koromoaredo Kimigamikeshishi Ayanikihoshimo ~ Manyoushyu Azumauta - 1 -

2 History "Ashiginu" and "Ayaginu" have been weaving ever since the Nara period;the liege of those in Yuki City paying tribute to Muromachi-Bakufu of the Muromachi Period. In the Edo Period, a new liege of Inabizennokami invited weavers from Ueda, Shinano; and introduced the Ryujou-Tsumugi technique, resulting in what began to be called "Yuki-Tsumugi", presented to Shogunate as a specialty product of the domain. The latter part of the Edo Period saw Japan's rigid rules begin to fade, and, as a result of even commoners now being able to get their hands on fine goods such as silk, Yuki-Tsumugi was spreading throughout Japan for both fashionable and everyday wear. The end of the Keio Era ( ) saw the adoption of the Kasuri technique, and the name quickly became well-known. Following this, the Chijimi-technique was developed in the Meiji Period, and weaving developed into more of a modern style, known as "Saikumono", towards the end of the Taisyo Period. Tsumugi-technique started out as a means to make kimonos for the farming population, from silk of not a high enough quality to be sold commercially. However, in 1956 Yuki-tsumugi was designated as an important intangible cultural heritage, and as a traditional craft products in As a result, Yuki-Tsumugi now make for very expensive Kimonos

3 Creating the Fabric for Yuki-Tsumugi What elements are needed to create the fabric for Yuki-Tsumugi? Mulberry leaves approximately 90kg Cocoons 2000~2500 Floss silk 8-hakari So, how isyuki-tsumugi made from all of this? Silk-thread 8-bocchi - 3 -

4 The Process of Making Honba Yuki-Tsumugi Fabric Making threads Floss silk is 100% natural silk. The structure of silkworms have many outstanding characteristics that result in the silk being well-protected from the effects of water. Kuda-maki The spun thread is rolled through a pipe and wheel. Shaken The cocoons are boiled with bicarbonate soda. Mawata-kake The pupas are removed from the boiled cocoons and spread out like a pouch. Silk is typically said to be robust and durable as a result of strong twisting of the threads. Yuki- Tsumugi silk, however, is one that undergoes no such twisting, and this type is not seen anywhere else in the world. To master the proper technique requires years of practice. To make one bolt of fabric, alone, takes Ito-tsumugi The resulting floss silk is spun Kaseage The threads are then rolled over a reel, known as a"kase"

5 Pattern Indigo Dyeing A plan for the design is created Dyeing Indigo sukumo Indigo seeds are planted in spring, and then harvested and seasoned in summer. Then, water is then added to them to ferment for approximately three months, requiring a total of approximately 10 months to become a dye known as "Sukumo". Benefits of Indigo The fabric is dyed in a bas color Nowadays, chemical dye is predominantly used, though pure indigo may also be used for certain parts. - Makes the fiber more durable - Repels insects and eliminates odors - Protects the skin from disease and ultraviolet rays - 5 -

6 Making "Kasuri" Tatewaku-makitori Sumi-tsuke Kasuri-shibari. The threads are wound over a large A spot is marked for binding, The mark is then bound with for the "Kasuri" stage. known as "Kasuri-shibari". the threads Tataki-zome Tataki-zome Kasuri-hogusi Gara-awase Dyeing is done through a process of Once the dyeing is Kasuri threads are arranged one by beating. The bounded marks, completed, the Kasuri threads one to ensure the alignment of the however, are not dyed, becoming a are removed. pattern. part of the "Kasuri" pattern

7 Preparation Yokokasuriito-taguri Shita-nori-tsuke Kuda-maki The woof of the Kasuri is wound Starch is applied lightly to make the The "Ji-ito" threads are wound through to a "Taiko" drum, and through following stage easier to undertake. a pipe. a pipe. Ji-ito-no-hatanobe The silk is then stretched out to the length of a Kimono with the threads crossed over one another in order to later run through weaving instruments. Hon-noritsuke The threads are then starched once more, but at a more concentrated level Taba-wake The Ji-ito is separated again into individual threads and their quantity confirmed.

8 Kirikae Ma-sasikomi Osa-toshi The Kasuri and Ji-ito threads are Working in pairs, the Kasuri threads The warps are then threaded through then tied to make what is known are in between the Ji-ito threads as a reed. as "Aya". per design. Hata-maki The threads are then combed through an "Omaki". Mae-musubi The threads are then separated into small bundles and tied at the ends. Kake-ito Kake A special instrument is used to lift and stretch the bottom thread over the top

9 Weaving Check Finish Weaving Check Finish The threads are then weaved with The fabric is strictly checked at Often called "arrangement work", the the use of a "Jibata". 15 points. starch is removed from fabric which has been selected by a buyer for kimono use. Features of the The Honba-Yuki-Tsumugi is light, warm, durable, and becoming increasingly more This process returns the characteristics Honba-Yuki-Tsumugi. stylish through many generations of production. of Yuki-Tsumugi. The high level of moisture absorbtion and retention is unique to this natural fibre resulting in it causing far less sweat than other fabrics when worn in high humidity. The three processes of spinning, Kasuri-shibari, and weaving are designated as an important intangible cultural heritage in Japan