THE EARLY GEOMETRIC PATTERNED CHILKAT

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THE EARLY GEOMETRIC PATTERNED CHILKAT L BY MARY LOIS KISSELL OCATING a few old unidentified ceremonial robes as Chilkat, is the result of intensive research on north Pacific coast blankets by the

1 THE EARLY GEOMETRIC PATTERNED CHILKAT L BY MARY LOIS KISSELL OCATING a few old unidentified ceremonial robes as Chilkat, is the result of intensive research on north Pacific coast blankets by the writer for the Bureau of American Ethnology. Fundamentally unlike the Chilkat blanket-robe overspread with animal ornament is an older Chilkat with geometric design, closely relating it to its sister industry,- basketry. Two examples are known: one obtained by Captain Swift about 1800, now in Peabody Museum, Harvard University' (fig. 1) ; the second secured by early Russian explorers, now in the FIG. 1 1 Willoughby, C. C. A new type of ceremonial blanket, AMER. ANTHR.,

2 KISSELL] EARLY GEOMETRIC CHILKAT 117 National Museum, Copenhagen, where Professor Boas found it on a recent European visit. Half a dozen features differentiate it from the later type with animal pattern, which we have long known is a Tsimshian web that later was taken over by the Chilkat-Tlingit, hence the name: The distinguishing features here are a rectangular shape without dipping curve below; integral fringes; purely goat-wool warp; and its old coast pattern weave. But most striking is its geometric ornament dispersed on primary and secondary stripes, with the principal ones carrying designs accented by tassels. Reports of such tufted and frogged garments come from two localities. Vancouver s men in 1794 found a chief thus dressed on Lynn Canal;2 while Lisiansky in 1805 saw several Indians wearing them at Sitka.3 Tlingit weavers show nice discrimination in choosing from the many twine and wrap technics those best suited to definite design and texture effects in various parts of the robe. But their great patterning means is latticed wrap weave. This employs two different colored weft strands: a passive one latticed back of the warp; and an active one that binds them together. In laying in the design the weft strands exchange places wherever the design calls for a change in color. A third web in the Ottawa Museum, Canada,-a ceremonial tunic remodeled from part of a Chilkat robe-is similar to the early garment of these Indians in many particulars, but varies in decorative style and plan, as well as in weave. (fig. 2). Animal medallions in rows are dispersed on a ground with geometric design like that on secondary stripes of the Peabody and Copenhagen webs; while the tassel again appears, two of which once hung from each medallion as bits of yarn ends and broken spots testify, Here it accents the important medallion animal, which presumably is a totemic crest, probably the killer-whale motif. The carry-over of the traditional tassel to mark the crest. ~~ 2 Vancouver, G. Voyage of Discovery to North Pacific Ocean, 3; 250. Lisiansky, U. Voyage, Kissell, M. L. Basketry Technics. American Museum, Anthropological Papers 17; 263.

118 AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST [N. s., 30, 1928 figure, incites one to read backward and ask, Does this pendant member serve a similar function on the early Chilkat?

3 118 AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST [N. s., 30, 1928 figure, incites one to read backward and ask, Does this pendant member serve a similar function on the early Chilkat? Are the tasseled designs that enrich the dominant stripes geometric crests serving to prevent the significant totem from being lost in the rich decoration? Diverse weave and design treatment join in singling out these particular figures. Furthermore, the Ottawa garment utilizes the Tlingit embellishing technic-latticed wrap weave-for its geometric ground ornament; and that of the Tsimshian-tapestry twilled twine weave-for the animal medallion ornament. The tapestry twine FIG. 2 idea was developed by the Tsimshian in response to the desire to represent the animal totem and is.a unique technic in aboriginal industry. It carries the weft back and forth over short spaces as the design requires. This is impossible with a weft that moves across the width of the loom, as in the Tlingit pattern weave. Here the technic is twilled twine with two active twining weft strands.6 This union of Tsimshian animal ornament and Tlingit geometric ornament, as well as the embellishing weaves of both peoples, suggests that the Ottawa garment is a transitional type between the early and late Tlingit types, before these Indians took over the Tsimshian style of robe. A fourth robe in the British Museum (fig. 3), probably col- Kissell, M. L. Yarn and Cloth Making, ; eadem, Basketry Technics. American Museum, Anthropological Papers, 17; 263. I.

KISSELL] EARLY GEOMETRIC CHILKAT 119 lected by Vancouver when charting the New Norfolk coast between Prince Frederick Sound and Lynn Canal' in 1794, is a Tlingit with all-over geometric design.

4 KISSELL] EARLY GEOMETRIC CHILKAT 119 lected by Vancouver when charting the New Norfolk coast between Prince Frederick Sound and Lynn Canal' in 1794, is a Tlingit with all-over geometric design. But from which tribe of this people it came is uncertain; a number of factors point to one farther south than the Chilkat; and if not, it is probably older than the Peabody or Copenhagen robes. An interesting peculiarity of early Tlingit weaving is a slender band of the jewel color-yellow-crossing the width of the web and ending in the FIG. 3 side fringes. It has also been found among the Bella Coola. On the Vancouver garment it crosses the center of the main motif; while on tasseled ones it takes a minor place in the decoration. Is it possible that this is an older manner of indicating the principal or crest (?) figure, which lost its importance when the tassel came into style? and that the Vancouver web was woven prior to the use of the tassel? We have had an excellent monograph on late Tlingit weaving;s but next to nothing is known of that of the important early Tlingit. Even fifty years ago valuable information from the field Emmons, G. T. The Chilkat Blanket. American Mus. Mem. 3;

5 120 AMERICAN ANTHROPOLOGIST [N. S., 30, 1928 might have been gathered by one versed in textile research. Weaving has lost out in its contribution to ethnology by being left to the general ethnologist, who often mistakes technics and does not know their importance in relation 'to pattern. Ways of handling design and qualities derived from such have much scientific information to contribute. However, the time is not far distant when the need will be recognized for trained textile research. 523 W. 121 STREET, NEW Yo= CITY

ORGANIZED SALISH BLANKET PATTERN BY MARY LOIS KISSELL

W ORGANIZED SALISH BLANKET PATTERN BY MARY LOIS KISSELL EAVING has an interesting story to tell in relation to Salish nobility blankets. Indeed, the textile industry about Fuca strait, Puget sound, gulf