Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes

Journal of Saudi Chemical Society (2016) 20, 178 184 King Saud University Journal of Saudi Chemical Society www.ksu.edu.sa www.sciencedirect.com ORIGINAL ARTICLE Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes Ijaz Ahmad Bhatti a, Shahid Adeel b, *, Sajida Parveen a, Mohammad Zuber c a Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry, University of Agriculture, Faisalabad 38040, Pakistan b Department of Chemistry, Government College University, 38000 Faisalabad, Pakistan c Department of Applied Chemistry, Government College University, 38000 Faisalabad, Pakistan Received 3 July 2012; accepted 24 December 2012 Available online 17 January 2013 KEYWORDS Cotton; Colourfastness properties; Disperse dye; Dyeing; Polyester; Reactive dye Abstract The dyeing behaviour of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics using multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes has been investigated. The plain, woven, mercerized, bleached, cotton and polyester fabrics were exposed to UV radiation (180 w, 254 nm) for 30, 60, 90 and 120 min. Dyeing was performed using irradiated fabric with a dye solution of un-irradiated reactive and disperse/azo dyes. The dyeing parameters such as, temperature, time, ph and salt concentration have been optimized. The colour strength values of dyed fabrics were evaluated by comparing irradiated and un-irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics in CIE Lab systems using spectra flash SF600. Finally ISO standard methods were employed to observe the effect of UV radiation on fastness properties. It was found that UV radiation has a potential to improve the colour strength values of cotton and polyester fabrics by using reactive and disperse dyes. ª 2013 Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of King Saud University. 1. Introduction Love of colour is an instinct and every individual has his own choice and liking. The choice of beautiful fascinating colour reflects the aesthetic sense of humans that varies. Synthetic colours are used in the clothes we wear, in paints, plastic articles, in a wide range of multicoloured printed materials * Corresponding author. Tel.: +92 41 9200037/334 0194537. E-mail address: shahidadeelchemist@gmail.com (S. Adeel). Peer review under responsibility of King Saud University. Production and hosting by Elsevier 1319-6103 ª 2013 Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. on behalf of King Saud University. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jscs.2012.12.014 such as posters, magazines and newspapers, in photographs, cosmetics, ceramics and on television and film. Thus dyes are such coloured substances which are capable of imparting their colour to the matrix (Shukla, 1992). Synthetic dyes are a class of highly coloured organic substances, primarily utilized for tinting textiles that attach themselves to the substances by forming a covalent bond during the application process. The use of natural dyes in textiles was eliminated since synthetic dyes give a variety of reproducible shades and colours (Deo and Desai, 1999). Reactive dyes are the best choice for dyeing of cellulosic fibers and coloring at home or in the art studio. These dyes are coloured compounds that contain functional groups that react with OH, SH and NH 2 groups present in textile fibres. Fixation occurs in the fibre under alkaline conditions by forming

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes 179 a covalent bond between carbon atom of a dye molecule and OH, NH, SH etc. groups present in the fibres (cotton, wool, silk, nylon, etc.) (Bahi et al., 1992). Disperse dyes are synthetic chemical constituents which have a very low water solubility in their dispersed colloidal forms and are capable for dyeing and printing the hydrophobic fabrics. They are usually applied from a dye bath as dispersion by a direct colloidal absorption. Disperse dyes have low solubility in water, but they can interact with the polyester chains by forming dispersed particles. Their main use is the dyeing of polyesters, and they find minor use for dyeing cellulose acetates and polyamides (Broadbent, 2001). Cotton cellulose is highly crystalline in nature and well oriented and has a long and rigid molecular structure. The b-1,4-d glucopyranoses are the principle building blocks of a cotton cellulose chain and are linked by 1,4-glucodic bonds. There are three hydroxyl groups attached to each anhydro glucose unit. The large number of hydroxyl groups readily forms hydrogen bonds with water and are therefore responsible for the hydrophilic nature of the cellulose fibre (Burkinshaw, 1990). Due to the presence of hydroxyl groups and the chain conformation, there are possibilities for the formation of many bonds of the dye and fabrics (intermolecular and intra molecular) (Hsieh, 2007). Various treatments such as UV, ultrasonic and gamma radiation are being used to improve the colour strength and fastness properties of dyed fabric (Fazal et al., 2012; Bhatti et al., 2012a). Limited study has been performed on the effect of radiation treatment in order to evaluate the dyeing characteristics of fabric using natural as well as synthetic dyes. An alternative approach has recently been developed by using UV radiation to modify the fabric surface while leaving the bulk textile unaffected (Shao et al., 1997). Surface fibres must either absorb UV radiation directly or a suitable photo initiator must be applied to produce a large number of highly reactive radicals when the textile surface is exposed to UV (Hocker, 2002). Surface modification is particularly useful on natural fibres such as wool and cotton synthetic colourants (Millington, 2000; Adeel et al., 2013). For the present study we have an aim to improve the colour strength and colourfastness properties of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics dyed with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes, respectively. 2. Materials and methods 2.1. Sample preparation and irradiation The name polyester refers to the linkage of several monomers (esters) within the fibre. Polyester is a long chain polymer chemically composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester and a dihydric alcohol and a terephthalic acid. Patches of grey cotton fabric (10 10 cm) were procured from Lal Mill Faisalabad and subjected for bleaching. H 2 O 2 and sodium hydroxide were used each 2 ml for 10 g cotton fabric containing (1:50) M:L. Bleached cotton fabric and polyester fabrics were exposed to UV radiation source of 254 nm; Figure 1 Effect of UV irradiation on the dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabric using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dye.

180 I.A. Bhatti et al. 180 w for 30, 60, 90 and 120 min from University of Agriculture Faisalabad, Pakistan (Shahid et al., 2012). The control cotton and polyester fabric was also used for comparative study. 2.2. Optimization of different dyeing conditions In order to optimize the dyeing parameters, dyeing was carried out at different time intervals 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 min. To observe the effect of ph, dyeing was carried out at different ph values (6, 7, 8, 9 and 10) (Ji et al., 2009). In another experiment dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics was carried out to evaluate the effect of salt/dispersing agent concentration using different concentrations of 2%, 4%, 6%, 8% and 10%. To observe the effect of temperatures dyeing was carried out at different temperatures (50, 60, 70, 80 and 90 C) (Ruchi and Rupainwar, 2011). 2.3. Evaluation of quality of dyed fabrics Finally all the dyed patches using un-irradiated and irradiated fabric were investigated using Spectra flash (SF 600), at Quality Assurance and Quality Control Laboratory of Noor Fatima Textile (Pvt) Faisalabad, Pakistan. The effect of UV radiation on colourfastness properties such as colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing was determined. Standard methods such as ISO 105-CO3 for washing fastness, ISO 105 X-12 for rubbing fastness and ISO 105-BO2 for light fastness were applied (Bhatti et al., 2012b; Adeel et al., 2013). Figure 2 dye. Effect of dyeing temperature on the dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabric using un-irradiated reactive and disperse Figure 3 Effect of salt concentration on the dyeing of irradiated cotton fabric using un-irradiated reactive dye.

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes 181 3. Results and discussion Results of fabrics dyed with un-irradiated reactive and disperse dyes are shown in Fig. 1 which reveals that irradiated fabric dyed for 90 min has a maximum affinity for dye substrate to attach on it as compared to un-irradiated fabrics. The fabric irradiated for 90 min shows even better colour strength. The reason for this might be the oxidation of cellulose into carboxylic acid upon exposure of cellulose to UV radiation (Michael and El-Zaher, 2005). The UV treatments of cellulose fibre create spaces between fibres which imbibe more dye and as a result the interaction for dyeing cellulosic fibre becomes more significant. The dye molecule rushes rapidly on the fabric and as a result we got a darker shade on irradiated fabric samples. The more colour strength might also be due to photo modification of the fabric, which causes conversion of cellulose moieties into carboxylic acid that has more affinity for dye substrate (Foldvary et al., 2003). Hence optimum time for irradiating cotton and polyester fabrics is 90 min. The dyeing of cotton and polyester fabric is temperature dependent. Results shown in Fig. 2 reveal that the colour strength of the dyed fabric with reactive and dispersed dyes at different temperatures is significant. Rate of dyeing increases with increasing temperature. Increase in temperature causes more dye particles to rush rapidly on the fabric (Takacs et al., 2001). Colour strength values increased up to 70 C for irradiated cotton fabric dyed with un-irradiated reactive dye. Further increase in temperature causes decrease in colour strength. This might be due to the reasons that at low temperature insoluble impurities get maximum chances to sorb on the photo modified fabric and at much higher temperature cause hydrolysis of dye molecules into fragments, which results in low colour strength as well as dull and un-even shades. While polyester fabric was dyed with disperse dye the maximum colour strength value was obtained at 100 C, because disperse dyes imparted darker shades at high temperature conditions. Polyester fabric is hydrophobic and compact, it cannot be swollen in cold state and negligible water is imbibed in fibre. Figure 4 Effect of dispersing agent on the dyeing of irradiated polyester fabric using un-irradiated disperse dye. Figure 5 Effect of ph on the dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabric using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dye.

182 I.A. Bhatti et al. Fibre structure is opened by raising the temperature above 100 C. In this way fibre macromolecules vibrate vigorously and superior exhaustion of dye is achieved (Al-Degs et al., 2008). Optimum temperature for dyeing of irradiated cotton using un-irradiated reactive dye is 70 C while for dyeing of irradiated polyester using un-irradiated polyester fabrics it is 100 C. Data displayed in Fig. 3 demonstrate that dyeing using sodium chloride as an exhausting agent gives better results. When salts are added to the dye bath, they might try to neutralize to reduce the negative charges of fibre, thereby facilitating the approach of the dye molecules to within the range of the hydrogen bond formation or the formation of other bonds between the dye and the fibre (Grifoni et al., 2011). Colour strength values indicate that dyeing in the presence of NaCl imparts darker shades. It is found that irradiated cotton fabric dyed with un-irradiated reactive dye using sodium chloride 10 g/l is darker in shades and shows higher colour strength. In the case of irradiated polyester fabric at much high concentration of dispersing agent low colour strength values are obtained. Colour strength increase up to a concentration of 6 g/l then further increasing concentration, decrease in colour strength (Fig. 4). This is because much higher concentration of dispersing agent creates maximum and permanent spaces between fibres and there is difficulty of dye to retain on fabric for maximum time period. Hence optimum salt concentration for dyeing of irradiated cotton is 10 g/l and optimum concentration of dispersing agent is 6 g/l. Dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics is much dependent on dyeing media. As the condition becomes basic in dyeing with reactive dye, the colour strength values increase more drastically. So basic conditions facilitate the dyeing condition of reactive dyes, hence selected ph is 9 for reactive dyes on cotton fabric. High concentration of electrolyte plays an important role in increasing high colour strength (Mauthukumar et al., 2004) while for polyester fabric dyeing with disperse dyes the maximum colour strength was at ph 7 (Fig. 5), the reason behind this is that disperse dyes are stable at neutral ph but readily hydrolysed in acids and alkalis. Dyeing time also affects the colour strength values of irradiated cotton and polyester fabric dyed with un-irradiated reactive and disperses dye. By increasing dyeing time, colour strength values increases more and darker shades are obtained. Table 1 Effect of UV radiation on colour fastness properties of irradiated cotton fabric dyed by using un-irradiated reactive yellow dye. Parameter Dyeing conditionslf WFRubbing fastness Dry RF Wet RF UV-irradiation (min) 0 3 43 3 4 3 30 3 43 4 3 4 4 60 3 43 4 3 4 4 90 4 54 5 4 5 4 5 Dyeing temperature ( C) 60 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 70 3 43 4 4 3 4 80 4 54 5 4 5 3 4 90 3 43 4 3 4 4 100 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 Salt concentration (g/l) 2 4 53 4 3 4 4 4 3 43 4 4 3 4 6 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 8 3 43 4 4 3 4 10 4 54 5 3 4 4 5 12 3 43 4 4 3 4 ph 6 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 7 3 43 4 3 3 4 8 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 9 4 54 5 4 5 3 4 10 3 43 4 3 4 4 Time (min) 30 4 4 3 4 4 5 45 4 3 4 3 4 3 4 60 4 54 5 4.5 4 5 75 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 90 3 43 4 4.5 3 4 LF: light fastness; WF: wash fastness; RF: rubbing fastness. Figure 6 Effect of dyeing time on the dyeing of irradiated cotton and polyester fabric by using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dye.

Dyeing of UV irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics with multifunctional reactive and disperse dyes 183 Table 2 Effect of UV radiation on colour fastness properties of irradiated polyester fabric dyed by using un-irradiated disperse blue dye. Parameter Dyeing conditionslf WFRubbing fastness Dry RF Wet RF UV-irradiation (min) 0 3 43 3 4 3 30 3 43 4 3 4 4 60 3 43 4 3 4 4 90 4 54 5 4 5 4 5 Dyeing temperature ( C) 60 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 70 3 43 4 4 3 4 80 4 54 5 4.5 3 4 90 3 43 4 3 4 4 100 4 54 5 4 4 5 Dispersing agent (g/l) 2 4 53 4 3 4 4 4 3 43 4 4 3 4 6 4 54 5 4 4 5 8 3 3 4 4 3 4 10 4 53 4 3 4 3 4 12 3 3 4 4 3 4 ph 6 3 4 3 4 3 4 7 4 54 5 4.5 4 8 3 43 4 3 4 3 4 9 3 43 4 3 4 4 10 3 44 3 3 4 Time (min) 30 4 4 3 4 4 5 45 4 3 4 3 4 3 4 60 3 43 4 3 4 4 75 3 43 4 4 5 3 4 90 4 54 5 4 5 4 5 LF: light fastness; WF: wash fastness; RF: rubbing fastness. Fig. 6 indicates a gradual increase in colour strength values by increasing dyeing time up to 60 min. Hence optimum dyeing time for irradiated cotton and irradiated polyester is 60 min using un-irradiated reactive and disperse dyes. The rating results for colour fastness to light, washing and rubbing are given in Tables 1 and 2. It is revealed that under optimum conditions of temperature, time and ph and salt, irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics dyed with un-irradiated reactive and disperse dyes give acceptable colour fastness properties. Good colour fastness properties are observed due to the presence of benzene rings in reactive and disperse dye molecules that show more affinity towards irradiated fabric and resistance towards agencies such as detergent, heat, light and rubbing (Adeel et al., 2013). The evaluation of the colour fastness properties of dyed fabrics shows that dye molecules upon exposure to light remain stable on the photo modified surface of the cotton and polyester fabrics and offer less resistance to detach (Taylor et al.,2001). The rating results shown in Tables 1 and 2 regarding colour fastness properties demonstrated that UV irradiation had the ability to modify the surface of the fabric, which could improve the rating of fastness properties. 4. Conclusion UV irradiation treatment has improved the colour strength values of the irradiated cotton and polyester fabrics by the application of reactive and disperses dye. It is observed that good colour strength and fastness properties could be obtained if irradiated cotton (90 min) is dyed at 70 C for 60 min using media of ph 7 in the presence of 10 g/l of NaCl as exhausting agent using un-irradiated reactive dyes as compared to dyeing of irradiated polyester (90 min) at 100 C for 60 min using dyeing media of ph 10 in the presence of 6 g/l of dispersing agent using un-irradiated disperse dyes. 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