AS DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY: PRODUCT DESIGN (TEXTILES) TEXT1

AS DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY: PRODUCT DESIGN (TEXTILES) TEXT1 UNIT 1 Mark scheme June 2017 Version: 1.0 Final MATERIALS, COMPONENTS AND APPLICATION

Mark schemes are prepared by the Lead Assessment Writer and considered, together with the relevant questions, by a panel of subject teachers. This mark scheme includes any amendments made at the standardisation events which all associates participate in and is the scheme which was used by them in this examination. The standardisation process ensures that the mark scheme covers the students responses to questions and that every associate understands and applies it in the same correct way. As preparation for standardisation each associate analyses a number of students scripts. Alternative answers not already covered by the mark scheme are discussed and legislated for. If, after the standardisation process, associates encounter unusual answers which have not been raised they are required to refer these to the Lead Assessment Writer. It must be stressed that a mark scheme is a working document, in many cases further developed and expanded on the basis of students reactions to a particular paper. Assumptions about future mark schemes on the basis of one year s document should be avoided; whilst the guiding principles of assessment remain constant, details will change, depending on the content of a particular examination paper. Further copies of this mark scheme are available from aqa.org.uk Copyright 2017 AQA and its licensors. All rights reserved. AQA retains the copyright on all its publications. However, registered schools/colleges for AQA are permitted to copy material from this booklet for their own internal use, with the following important exception: AQA cannot give permission to schools/colleges to photocopy any material that is acknowledged to a third party even for internal use within the centre.

Level of response marking instructions Level of response mark schemes are broken down into levels, each of which has a descriptor. The descriptor for the level shows the average performance for the level. There are marks in each level. Before you apply the mark scheme to a student s answer read through the answer and annotate it (as instructed) to show the qualities that are being looked for. You can then apply the mark scheme. Step 1 Determine a level Start at the lowest level of the mark scheme and use it as a ladder to see whether the answer meets the descriptor for that level. The descriptor for the level indicates the different qualities that might be seen in the student s answer for that level. If it meets the lowest level then go to the next one and decide if it meets this level, and so on, until you have a match between the level descriptor and the answer. With practice and familiarity you will find that for better answers you will be able to quickly skip through the lower levels of the mark scheme. When assigning a level you should look at the overall quality of the answer and not look to pick holes in small and specific parts of the answer where the student has not performed quite as well as the rest. If the answer covers different aspects of different levels of the mark scheme you should use a best fit approach for defining the level and then use the variability of the response to help decide the mark within the level, ie if the response is predominantly level 3 with a small amount of level 4 material it would be placed in level 3 but be awarded a mark near the top of the level because of the level 4 content. Step 2 Determine a mark Once you have assigned a level you need to decide on the mark. The descriptors on how to allocate marks can help with this. The exemplar materials used during standardisation will help. There will be an answer in the standardising materials which will correspond with each level of the mark scheme. This answer will have been awarded a mark by the Lead Examiner. You can compare the student s answer with the example to determine if it is the same standard, better or worse than the example. You can then use this to allocate a mark for the answer based on the Lead Examiner s mark on the example. You may well need to read back through the answer as you apply the mark scheme to clarify points and assure yourself that the level and the mark are appropriate. Indicative content in the mark scheme is provided as a guide for examiners. It is not intended to be exhaustive and you must credit other valid points. Students do not have to cover all of the points mentioned in the Indicative content to reach the highest level of the mark scheme. An answer which contains nothing of relevance to the question must be awarded no marks. 3

Question Part Subpart Marking Guidance Mark 1 Complete the table by putting an item from the list below next to the correct description. You must not use any item more than once. A cellulosic fibre Linen A protein fibre Silk An elastomeric fibre Lycra A fabric finish Proban A fabric with a pile Corduroy A microfibre Tactel 1 mark for each correctly placed item. (Max 6 marks) 4

Question Part Subpart Marking Guidance Mark 2 Textiles can be dyed at various stages when processing them from fibres to a finished product. Name four main stages when dye can be added to textiles. Briefly explain the benefit of adding the dye at each stage you have named. There are 5 main stages when dye can be applied to textiles: Dope/spin dyeing: dope, or spin, dyeing is a process whereby the dye is added to the spinning solution of man-made fibres prior to spinning the fibre. This method results in the textiles having good light and wash fastness. It is better for the environment. Stock/fibre dyeing: fibres are dyed in a loose form. This method is relatively cheap and has the advantage that if the dyeing is uneven it will be removed by the blending processes that follow when converting the fibre into yarn. Allows for special effects. Yarn dyeing: Yarns are dyed before being made into fabric. This gives an even and deeper colour to the resultant fabric and allows for some specific effects, eg checks and stripes. Piece/Fabric dyeing: Woven or knitted fabrics are dyed in the piece. This is the cheapest method and allows for stocks of basic fabrics to be dyed to order and for different dyed effects, eg tie-dye. Piece dyeing is an alternative name for fabric dyeing, it is not cut pieces of the garment. Garment dyeing: Made-up garments are dyed as required. This allows manufacturers of fashion products to apply colour at the last minute to meet consumer demand for the latest shades. Candidate should identify the stage at which dye can be applied and give a benefit of adding the colour at that stage. There should be clarity about the benefits which should be specific to each stage. Do not accept repeats. Only 4 stages are required from the five given above. Marks awarded as follows: I mark for each of 4 correctly identified stages 1 mark for each of 2 accurate benefits 6 marks 5

Question Part Subpart Marking Guidance Mark 3 Describe each of the following techniques used when making textile products. You may use diagrams. A dart: Used to shape a product, darts are wedge shaped, usually on the inside of a product but can be on the outside of a product as a fashion feature. They control fullness from a wider area to a narrower area. Need to show the shape of the dart clearly for one of the marks. Tacking: Temporary stitches used to hold fabric pieces together/in place for stitching or testing of a prototype, removed after construction is complete. Not tailor tacking, alternative to pins. Notches/Balance marks: Triangular shaped pattern markings, markers or snips in a seam allowance used to show where different parts of a product are to be joined or placed. A diagram must show them in relation to an edge. Seam allowance: Additional fabric allowed for making and finishing a seam, usually 15mm on commercial patterns. Accept 10mm but not 25mm. Marks awarded as follows: Students may use a diagram. The information must be an accurate and coherent explanation. Clear and detailed explanation of the method, information will be accurate. Basic explanation of the technique lacking detail and accuracy. Information may be confused. No response worthy of credit 4 techniques, 2 marks each 2 marks 1 mark 0 mark (Max 8 marks) 6

Question Part Subpart Marking Guidance Mark 4 a The decorative doll shown in Figure 1 on the Insert Sheet is made from different fabrics. The fabric used for the doll s body is made from plain weave. Describe the plain weave. You may use a diagram. This detail which clearly indicates the warp and weft and correct interlacing pattern is expected in a diagram for 3 marks. Warp fixed in loom/runs length of fabric Weft passes over and under alternate warp yarns Alternates on following rows (1mark) Accept weave diagram shown as chequerboard pattern 2 marks if no labelling to explain warp/weft. (3 marks) 4 b The doll s legs are made from a striped weft knit fabric using cream and red yarns. Explain how the weft knit fabric has been made. You may use a diagram. course wale This detail which clearly indicates the course and wale and correct linking of loops together and with reference to alternating colour pattern is expected in a diagram for 4 marks. One yarn travels the width of the fabric Each row of loops is drawn through the previous row Horizontal rows are called courses, vertical rows are wales Stripes made by alternating a number of rows - ie more than one - in each colour (4 marks) 7

4 c The doll s boots are made from felt. Explain one method of making a felt fabric. You may use a diagram. Accept felting of wool or needle felting. If accepting wool felting the wool fibres must be specified. Read the whole answer to make sure it is coherent and makes sense. Felts are made directly from fibres which have not been spun into a yarn Plus either: Felt from wool fibres uses the natural felting ability of wool to cause the fibres to matt/bond together using heat, mechanical action (not pressure) and moisture Or: Needlefelts are made from synthetic fibres These are matted together by mechanical action when barbed needles entangle the fibres to make the felt 3 relevant points for one method of felting, 1 mark each. A diagram must include the relevant information given above (3 marks) 8

4 d i Parts of the doll have been made using sub-assembly. Explain what is meant by sub-assembly. Must indicate that it is parts of the product are made on a separate line/operation before they go to the main production line Workers are skilled in a specific process/operation 2 relevant points, 1 mark each. This can be a difficult one to mark as so many answers could be inline manufacture or sub-assembly - think of it as an overall understanding of the system: 1m for a general understanding, 2m for a good understanding. (Max 2 marks) 4 d ii Identify two different parts of the doll that could be made using sub-assembly. Eg the clothes, the legs, the body, the smaller doll. Facial features not just eyes or mouth. Not hair, arms, boots, bows, head. Two accurate and different parts named, 1 mark each. (2 marks) 4 e The doll s facial features could be printed or embroidered. Evaluate these two methods of adding the facial features. Printing: Quick to apply so cheaper in manufacture, possible to achieve fine detail, a flat finish which lacks texture, could fade, wash off or peel off over time. Embroidery: Gives a textured finish but is more expensive to apply, threads may snag in use and spoil effect but colour may last longer than print. Marks awarded as follows: Upper mark range A range of relevant points about both methods with some evaluation of their effectiveness. Information will be accurate with well explained points. Need different points, not just opposites of each other. Lower mark range Some relevant but largely descriptive and generic points but no real attempt to evaluate the different methods. No response worthy of credit. 3-4 marks 1-2 marks 0 marks 9

4 f The design of the doll is copyrighted. What does this mean? Designer has a moral right to be the owner of design gives exclusive rights to the design for a set period of time protects against others copying design those who copy can be sued/taken to court This is about not reproducing the design and not making a similar design which is OK. Any 2 appropriate points, 1 mark each 2 marks Question Part Subpart Marking Guidance Mark 5 (a) Describe the structure and properties of each of the following yarns. You may use diagrams. The staple and filament yarns are about yarns, not fibres and this must be clear. Award 1 mark for structure, 1 mark for properties. Staple yarn: Made from short staple fibres Staple yarns are hairy, and good insulators can also trap moisture between the fibres Filament yarn: Made by lightly twisting continuous filament fibres together Filament yarns are smooth/lustrous so make fabrics which are not good at insulating Plied yarn: Two single yarns are twisted together to make a folded yarn Or a single yarn that has been folded back on itself and twisted to form a two/three/four ply yarn that is thicker than the original yarn This helps to even out the thick and thin places/gives a regular and even texture Plied/folded yarns can be twisted together Makes a stronger yarn Core spun yarn: Made by twisting a sheath of fibres round a core made from a different fibre The core is often an elastomeric fibre Information may be presented in diagrammatic form. Any 2 appropriate points about each yarn, 1 mark each (8 marks) 10

5 (b) Staple fibres are carded before they are spun into yarns. Explain what is meant by carding and why carding is necessary. Carding is essentially about getting the fibres to align with each other and ready for spinning, not cleaning which is an earlier process. Any cleaning at this stage is to remove any residual waste. Carding is the combing/brushing of the fibres so that they all lie in the same direction Very short fibres and waste/dirt are removed Carding turns the fibres into a soft sheet/slivers which is easier to handle during spinning Any 3 relevant points, 1 mark each (3 marks) 11

5 (c) Explain in detail why synthetic fibres such as nylon and polyester are sometimes textured and bulked. Describe how textured and bulked fibres affect fabrics made from them. Synthetic fibres are very smooth; they lack texture and are poor insulators. Their characteristics can be changed by introducing crimps, crinkles and snarls into the filaments. Many of the methods used depend on the thermoplastic nature of synthetic fibres which allows the filaments to be heat set into the new shape. Yarns can be given texture to make them more interesting, and/or to help them hold more air so that they will be better insulators. The fine tubes created in and between textured yarns help them to carry water, or become more able to wick moisture. Textured yarns can also add stretch and resilience to a fabric. Marks awarded as follows: High mark range Sound understanding of the nature of synthetic fibres and the need for texturing. There will be some relevant examples to explain the effects of texturing on fabrics. Information will be mostly accurate and well explained. Mid mark range Some good understanding of synthetic fibres and the need for texturing although there will be a limited range of points. Information about texturing will lack evidence of clear understanding but there will be a sound attempt to analyse the effects, including some limited examples to illustrate points made. There will be minor confusion but many points will be accurate. Low mark range Minimal understanding of the nature of synthetic fibres or the effects of texturing. Points will be generic and confused with few, if any, specific examples to illustrate points made. Information will be disjointed and inaccurate with little understanding of the topic. No response worthy of credit. 6-7 marks 3-5 marks 1-2 marks 0 marks 5 (d) Name two fancy yarns. Eg, Slub, boucle/looped, chenille, metal yarns, knop, snarl. 2 different fancy yarns, 1 mark each (2 marks) 12

Question Part Subpart Marking Guidance 6 a At the beginning of the 20 th century, children s clothes were very similar in style to adults clothes. Some garments worn for different summer activities are shown in Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5 on the Insert Sheet. Mark Evaluate the suitability of the children s clothing for childhood activities such as play, sports and games. Eg Garments were often very formal and not suited to active play as they were heavy and bulky and often did not allow freedom of movement. Children were scolded for getting dirty as natural fabrics were not always easy to launder this may have inhibited their play activities. Children often wore many different layers with many accessories, and clothes were sometimes tight fitting in the style of those worn by adults. Many were made from stiff fabrics which did not allow free movement as there were no elastomeric fibres. Pleated and flared skirts and stretchy knitted fabrics for swimwear allowed for easy movement. Dangers associated with ties and ribbons. Hats would not obstruct vision but were fussy and likely to fall off. Answers need to include reference to specifics, some will refer to the images on the insert sheet. Marks awarded as follows: Question Part Subpart Upper mark range A range of relevant points clearly relating the clothing styles with the various activities. There will be clear evaluation of their appropriateness through largely accurate and well explained points. Lower mark range Some relevant but largely descriptive and generic points with only limited understanding of the problems. There will be some irrelevant and possibly inaccurate points and no real attempt at evaluation. No response worthy of credit. Marking Guidance 3-5 marks 1-2 marks 0 mark Mark 13

6 b Discuss the advantages and disadvantages of using cotton fabrics for children s summer clothing. Cotton fabrics are strong, durable and resist abrasion so are suitable for playing in. They are absorbent; this makes them comfortable in wear as they absorb body moisture and do not attract static. They are cool and breathable for summer wear. But they become very heavy when wet and can take a long time to dry. They do not irritate delicate skin and can be made into a wide range of different fabrics. They can be washed and ironed at high temperatures but they crease badly and shrink so would not have been easy care at the start of the 20 th century but can now be given finishes to overcome these shortcomings. Cotton fabrics are very flammable so can be dangerous. Do not accept lightweight, drape, easy to dye/available in a range of colours. Marks awarded as follows: High mark range Sound understanding of how a range of different qualities are related to children s summer clothing. There will be some relevant examples to illustrate the points made and information will be mostly accurate and well explained. Mid mark range Some clearly identified qualities with relevant reference to their impact. There will be a limited range of information, including some limited examples to illustrate points made. There will be minor confusion but many points will be accurate. Low mark range Minimal understanding of the properties of cotton fabrics with points limited to the most obvious and generic qualities. Information will disjointed with little explanation of the link between the qualities and summer clothing for children. No response worthy of credit. 5-6 marks 3-4 marks 1-2 marks 0 mark 14

6 c Discuss the ways in which the source, processing, manufacture and care of cotton fabrics can harm the environment. This question is about the environment and not moral/ethical issues. The growth and manufacture of cotton can have serious consequences for the environment in the following ways: Growing cotton uses fertilisers and pesticides which can pollute the atmosphere and waterways, and results in changes to the landscape because of intensive farming and deforestation. It uses up valuable land space which could be used for food crops and, being a thirsty plant, takes drinking water away from communities and causes water courses to dry up. Manufacturing and finishing processes use chemicals such as those found in dyestuffs, and their effluent can be damaging. Water and energy are also necessary for these processes. Some dyes and finishing chemicals, eg those used for non-crease finishes, break down in landfill sites and give off poisonous chemicals which can seep out into nearby waterways. Waste is produced when fabrics are made into products, and this may end up in landfill sites. Transportation of raw materials and finished goods, often across continents, produces CO2 emissions from transport systems, these contribute to global warming and damage to infrastructures. Care of cotton products requires the use of detergents, energy and water. Because cotton is very absorbent, it may take longer to dry and will probably need to be ironed because it creases these processes use additional energy. Energy: All processing and care requires energy which often comes from non-renewable fossil fuels, or nuclear sources. These sources can have a huge impact on the environment. Reference to chemicals, gases is vague and needs clarification. Marks awarded as follows: High mark range Sound knowledge and understanding of a broad range of issues related to cotton and the environment with some specific examples to support points made. There will be coverage of some areas of concern in some detail or many areas with less depth, but information will be mostly accurate and well explained. 7-8 mark 15

Mid mark range There is some knowledge of the source and manufacture of cotton and how they impact on the environment but there will be elements of confusion. There will be relevant points about the issues but there will be some lack of understanding and the exact nature of the concern may be sketchy. There will be minor confusion but many points will be accurate. Low mark range Basic information with only limited knowledge of cotton s environmental impact. Information will be generalised rather than specific with some that is irrelevant. It is likely that only one or two areas of concern will have been considered in a superficial way. Information will disjointed with many inaccuracies. No response worthy of credit. 4-6 marks 1-3 marks 0 marks 16

6 d Discuss the effects that modern and smart materials can bring to children s clothing There is a wide variety of different modern and smart materials which might be used for children s wear. The following are some of the most obvious examples but there are many others which should be given appropriate credit. Eg Thermoplastic fibres such as polyester and polyamide allow fabrics to be heat set to achieve specific effects such as a crinkled look, permanent creases and pleats. Advances in colouration and printing allow for a wide range of colours and novelty effects, eg thermochromic dyes. Microencapsulated fibres, eg those which release scents Smart or intelligent fabrics which react to their environment and change their properties as they are needed. They are able to sense and react to conditions around them, eg light, heat, power, eg those with chromatic properties which change colour in response to specific situations; those which can warn users of changes, such as loss of heat or presence of pollutants, and fabrics which incorporate electronic components, such as music systems. Other technical and modern materials include phosphorescent textiles, reflective textiles using glass beads, fabrics with electronics, eg GPS systems. Do not accept Lycra, Nomex, Kevlar, Polartec, silver in plasters. Take care with finishes, not all are modern/smart. Must relate to children s clothing and not other products. Need to explain the finish, simply naming them is not enough for credit. Marks awarded as follows: Upper mark range There will be some good understanding of a number of appropriate materials with some clear examples given, including some description of their effects. There may be minor errors and lack of detail but most information will be accurate. Lower mark range Little understanding of the nature of modern/smart materials with few relevant examples given or a lack of detail. There will be a lack of detail and there may be confused and inaccurate information. No response worthy of credit. 3-5 marks 1-2 marks 0 mark 17

6 e i A designer wants to use the basic style shown below as a basis for a new design for a child s summer dress. Front Back Give two advantages of using an existing design as a starting point. Eg using an existing design saves time, it may already sell well, the pattern templates will be stored ready for use, can improve on the design. Watch for repeat of the question. Any 2 appropriate points, 1 mark each. 2 marks 18

6 e ii In the space below, use notes and sketches to show how you would develop the basic dress shown in question 6 (e) (i) to make a new design for girls aged between 4 and 7 years of age The dress must: have a fastening include some applied decoration allow for growth. The student is expected to show a design for a child s dress based on the style shown and using the specification given. There should be annotation to explain the design and how it meets the specification points. There should be some significant change to the basic shape for high marks. Look at the whole dress and the appeal to a child. Design needs to be appropriate and likely to work in practice, decoration needs to be considered as a whole and relevant using too many techniques that do not add anything is not good. A wide range of fastenings such as buttons, zips, Velcro, ties may be included as appropriate for the design and the age range. Applied decoration may include embroidery, print, and trims. Allowance for growth could include moveable buttons, straps with additional length, deep hems/turn-ups which can be let down as the child grows, elasticated sections. Marks awarded as follows: High mark range A clear and detailed design with some originality. All of the specification points will be met and annotation will explain how this has been done. Communication skills will clearly convey what is intended with details of style features and other information as appropriate. Mid mark range Idea is adequate and information will be sufficient to indicate what is intended. There will be elements of originality and most of the specification points will be met although there may be some lack of clarity, especially at the lower end of the mark range. Communication skills will be sufficient to clearly convey what is intended with labelling to indicate style features and other information as appropriate. Low mark range Weak idea which does not address all of the specification points. There will be a lack of originality and clear information about what is intended and some aspects may be inappropriate. Communication will show some weakness. No response worthy of credit. 6-8 marks 3 5 marks 1 2 marks 0 marks 19

6 f Explain different ways in which Computer Aided Design (CAD) could help with the development of designs for a new range of children s clothing. This question is not about the benefits of using CAD, eg saving time, but about how CAD is used with specific operations named. Some of the many ways that CAD can help a designer include: using computer programmes to experiment with colour and texture; designing repeat patterns for fabric prints, embroidery designs, knitted or woven pattern; making a virtual prototype to see what a product might look like in different colourways and fabric textures, and on a human form; enabling the designer to select different fabric, patterns and colourings and create a range; developing and grading pattern templates; provide a database of images which can be adapted and changed as required; communicate ideas through presentation boards; showing the likely costs of making the product through the use of spreadsheets; producing a lay plan which shows where the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric so that there is minimum wastage. Marks awarded as follows: High mark range There is good knowledge and understanding of a number of different ways in which CAD is used by designers and examples will go beyond the most obvious. There will be clear and accurate detail with only minor inaccuracies. Mid mark range Some sound understanding of the ways in which CAD is used by designers although some information may be generic and/or lacking in detail. This may be restricted to a narrow area of focus but will generally be accurate. Low mark range There is basic and generic awareness of the ways in which CAD is used in design development with few relevant examples. There may be some confused and inaccurate information. No response worthy of credit. 5-6 marks 3-4 marks 1-2 marks 0 mark 20