H2-50 Hydrogen Generator Field Update

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Transcription:

This field update is intended to provide extra protection in the event the H2 generation cell fractures or cracks. Please add the additional parts to your H2-50 as soon as possible. Please take a digital photo of the installation once you have completed it and send it to techsupport@srigc.com If you do not feel you can perform this upgrade, please call SRI Tech Support at 310-214-5092 and we will arrange to perform the upgrade for you at no charge when you ship the unit to us in Torrance CA. The upgrade contains 1) Large and small piece of stainless steel screen 2) Small screw and nut 3) Two flat aluminum plates 4) Two long threaded rods with attached nuts 5) Plastic barb fitting 6) Plastic shield 7) Two caution labels H2-50 Hydrogen Generator Field Update 11-6-2007 Disconnect the power from the unit and vent the hydrogen pressure. Remove any tubing from the top of the cell. Depending on the year of manufacture the cell may have one or two tubing connections. The fittings should be finger tight, but if they require a wrench to remove, be sure to use two wrenches so the fitting itself does not turn. page1

Unplug the cell from the chassis. Remove the two screws holding the front cover plate. Page 2

Remove the cell from the chassis. Remove the two screws holding the cooling fan. Page 3

Loosen the clamping screw at the 3 o clock position in order to pull the wires which are routed on the inside of the screw to the outside of the screw. This is to make room for the stainless steel screen. Pull the bundle of wires to the outside of the screw and then tighten the screw back to the same tightness as it was before. Starting at the back of the cell, slide the larger piece of stainless steel mesh between the clamping screws and the cylinder. Page 4

Work the stainless mesh around the cylinder until it goes all the way around. You can see why the wires had to be moved. Gather the two ends at the back of the cell and line up the pre-drilled holes. Page 5

Use a wrench and screwdriver to tighten the small screw and locking nut to hold the ends of the stainless mesh securely together. Bend the connected ends towards the cylinder. Remove the rear plastic barb fitting from the cell. This fitting has a tendency to get brittle from the oxygen so it needs to be replaced anyway from time to time. Transfer the black o-ring from the old fitting to the new one before screwing the new barb fitting back into place. Tighten until the o-ring contacts the surface, but don t overtighten Page 6

Line up the small piece of stainless mesh with the fan and fan guard. The pre-drilled holes in the mesh should align with the holes in the fan. Tighten the screws holding the fan, clamping the mesh between the fan and the base of the cell. If the fan wires rub against the mesh use a small scissors to cut away the mesh so the wires do not rub. Place the two aluminum plates in position on the right and left of the cell. Notice how the right hand plate has slots to allow the wires to penetrate and the left hand plate has a cut-out for the barb fittings. Page 7

Insert the two threaded rods from right to left to clamp the two side plates together. Re-attach the cell to the chassis using the two original screws and make sure all the screws and threaded rods are tight. You will need two wrenches to make sure the side plates are securely clamped. Reconnect the wires to the plug on the chassis. Page 8

Peel the backing paper off the warning labels and apply the big label to the top of the H2-50. Attached the smaller label to the front as shown. Re-connect any tubes to the top of the cell. Finger-tight should be enough, but if you use a wrench always use two wrenches to avoid turning the fittings themselves.` Page 9

Using the existing screws and a 5/64 hex wrench, attach the plastic shield to the top of the H2-50 as shown. Test for leaks by allowing the H2-50 to reach operating pressure ( 30psi ) with the shut-off toggle valve closed. Then remove the power cord. If there is a leak, the pressure gauge will drop. If the system is leak-tight, the pressure gauge will continue to indicate 30 psi for hours or days. Don t forget to take a digital photo of your installation and e-mail it to H250@srigc.com Page 10