1 YSR 12-10 Everywear Tails Design by lila_ PIECES 0 Print Check 1 Front Left 1x Fabric 2 Front Side Left 1x Fabric 3 Back Side 2x Fabric 4 Back 2x Fabric 5 Under Collar 2x Fabric 6 Upper Collar 2x Fabric 7 Collar Band 2x Fabric 8 Front Right 1x Fabric 9 Bias Facing 1x Fabric 10 Front Right Interlining 1x Lining 11 Front Side Right Interlining 1x Lining 12 Front Facing 2x Fabric 13 Front Side Lining 2x Fabric 14 Back Side Lining 2x Fabric 15 Back Lining 2x Fabric
What you need: Fabric (non stretchable) Lining Interfacing (a smooth one) Bias Strip Fusible Interfacing Snaps (3x) 35" / 90cm Interfacing Sizes 34-44 2 55" / 140cm Fabric Sizes 34-44 55" / 140cm Lining Sizes 34-44 Centimeters Inches SIZE 34 36 38 40 42 44 SIZE 6 8 10 12 14 16 FABRIC Meter FABRIC Yards 140 cm 2 2 55.1 " 2 1/5 2 1/5 LINING LINING 140 cm 1.4 1.4 55.1 " 1 1/2 1 1/2 INT ERFACING INTERFACING 90 cm 1.45 1.45 35.4 " 1 3/5 1 3/5
Please read these instructions carefully before you start working. It's always a good idea to sew a test garment first and try it on before starting the actual Important: when printing your pattern, make sure that you have the function Fit to page switched off in your PDF reader software. Always print at 100%. After printing, check the 5 by 5 test square on each pattern with a tape measure to make sure that the dimensions are correct. 3 YSR 12-10 Seam allowances are included as indicated on the pattern: Dividing seams in front and back = 1cm (3/8") Side seams and center back seam = 1,5cm (5/8") Hem = 4cm (1 1/2") All other seams: 1cm (3/8") INTERFACING Pieces 1, 2, 5, 6, 7 are completely covered with Interfacing. In Pieces 3, 4, 12, 13, 14, 15 dotted lines mark the Interfacing pattern pieces. Trace Interfacing patterns by following these dotted lines. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of fabric as indicated on the pattern, following manufacturer's instructions. To stabilize neckhole and armhole edges, add strips of interfacing along these edges. Use a bias strip (not a stable one!) of lightweight fusible interfacing about 1/3 inch wide. Do not stretch edges while fusing DEVIDING SEAMS IN FRONT AND BACK Pieces 1 + 10: Staystitch in seam allowances to reinforce the corner. Clip seam allowance close to corner of that stitching line. Pin Front Left (1) and Front Side Left (2) with right sides together matching notches. Stitch precicesly up to the corner (stitch with the stay-stitched piece uppermost, as this will make sewing easier). Keep the needle down at the corner, lift the presser foot, pivot the pieces and stitch the rest of the line from the corner to the edge. Press seam Stitch Front Right Interlining (10) and Front Side Right Interlining (11) together in the same way. With right sides together pin Back (4) and Back Side (3) by matching notches. Stitch and press open. With right sides together pin Back (4) pieces at center back ending at notch for the slit. Stitch and press seam open. RIGHT FRONT DRAPING Front Right (8): Pin pleats at front edge as indicated in the pattern, paying attention to order and orientation of pleats! Pin pleated piece to Front Right Interlining (10) by matching edges. Drape pleated piece on Front Interlining, smoothening the fabric over interlining to achieve a nice fall of the folds. Depending on your fabric you might have to adjust the folds. If, for example, you have a very soft fabric that stretches a lot diagonally, you might need reduce the tips of the folds a little bit.
It helps a lot to have a dress form to drape the folds on. Once your draping looks good, baste pleated piece to Interlining at the edges and continue to work with it like a single layer of fabric. 4 COLLAR Pin one Collar Band (7) to each Under Collar (5) and Upper Collar (6), matching notches. Stitch, ending at seam allowance (see arrow), do not stitch all the way up to Press seams open, clip seam allowances where necessary. Pin each upper and under collar together at center back with right sides together. Stitch and press seam open. Turn in seam allowances of remaining collar band section. Press. Pin Upper Collar to Under Collar at outer edge with right sides together, stitch. Trim edges of outer collar edge and cut corner diagonally, clip where necessary Turn collar to right side and press edge. FITTING Pin side seams with right sides together, matching notches, baste. Pin back collar with right sides together to front neckholes, matching notches, baste. Try waistcoat on. Check draping and adjust pleats if necessary. After trying on, take basted collar off again. SIDESEAM AND HEM Pin side seams with right sides together, matching notches. Stitch and press seam Press hem up, easing in fullness if necessary. Press only up to the seam corners in FACING AND LINING With right sides together pin Front Facing (12) and Front Side Lining (13) by matching notches. Stitch and press toward side. Back Lining (15): Staystitch in seam allowances to reinforce the corner at slit in center back. Later seam allowance will be clipped close to that stitching line. With right sides together pin Back Lining (15) and Back Side Lining (14) by matching notches. Stitch and press open. With right sides together pin Back Linings (15) at center back ending at notch for the slit. Stitch and press seam and slit open With right sides together pin sideseams by matching notches. Stitch and press open. NECKHOLE, COLLAR, FRONT EDGE AND HEM Pin Collar and Front Pieces right sides together at the neckline, baste matching Place Front Facings and Lining precisely on waistcoat, with right sides together. Pin Front Neckhole, front edge and seam with right sides together, inserting the collar in the process. Stitch, stopping exactly at the Collar Stand (see arrow in pattern).
Clip seam allowances at front neckhole and front facing diagonally up to the collar 5 Trim front neckhole up to collar and front edge and turn piece to right side. Press front edge and front neck hole. Make a blindstitch hem. FRONT ARMHOLE AND BACK NECKHOLE With wrong sides together pin Waistcoat and Lining at front armhole and continuing at back neckhole, baste. With wrong sides together fold Bias facing (9) along roll line. Pin raw edges together and press lightly. Pin facing to upper back and front armhole edges, stitch and trim. Turn facing to inside, press. Stitch close to outer edge. FINISH COLLAR With right sides together pin Collar Band of Under Collar to remaining neckhole of front and front facing. Stitch precisely from clipped seam allowance (arrow in pattern) up to front armhole.
6 Press seam toward collar band. Pin remaining pressed edge of collar band over seam Edgestitch collar band as shown on the photo. FINISH Press Lining: At the hem, press a fold in the lining that is created by the additional length of fabric. Turn in seam allowance on slit edges of lining 1,5cm (5/8") and press. Clip seam allowance towards edge. Also turn in upper seam allowance 1,5cm (5/8") and press. Pin pressed edges to slit facings, slipstitch. CLOSURE Fasten the waistcoat with snaps because of the multiple layers of fabric at right front Use markings in front patterns as guide for snaps. Sew the ball on the underside of the overlap. Sew the socket on the upper side of left Stitch through all layers. Make decorative hand stitches to fasten the snap or cover the stitches with decorative fake buttons on the overlap. Make one buttonhole in left front as indicated in the pattern. Pin the waistcoat closed and mark the position for underbutton at right front. Sew a flat button on the underside of right front. BOW Cut out two strips of fabric to the following measurements Bow - 8" x 3.5", Knot - 3" x 3" Fold the bow strip in half lengthways, stitch right sides of long edges together with a 0.5" seam allowance. Trim seams, turn right side out. Position the seam to the centre of the underside and press. Fold in the edges to the centre of the bow. overlap 0.5". Hand baste a few long stitches along this centre line through all thicknesses, leaving some thread loose either end, then pull the thread to gather the fabric together a bit, and stitch again but this time a bit tighter to hold the gathers in place. Fold the knot strip in half, stitch right sides of long edges together with a 0.5" seam
Trim seams and turn right side out. Position the seam to the center of the underside and press, then arrange the knot around the gathered middle of the bow and stitch in place, catching in some of the bow fabric. Handstitch the bow to center back of the waistcoat as shown in the photo. 7 Did you find any mistakes in these instructions or do you have suggestions for improvements? Please let us know! This is a free pattern from yourstylerocks.com. Visit us for more!