Creating a texture with Deep Paint 2.0 By Realmling What you need to do this tutorial: Deep Paint 2.0 (it s free now) Photoshop/PSP/similar (cause there s a few clean up things DP can t do) Poser Optional requirements: Britta figure (free from Sixus1) My Sundress for Britta (free from me) Or just grab your favorite model and a piece of their clothing (make sure you have the template) and follow along. ~~~~~~~~ NOTE: Deep Paint is very good at giving auto reminders to save as you go I have to say this is the best feature of this program. Every so often the little box will pop up to remind you to save your project. (this will be in DP2 format) Open Deep Paint and load the texture template it doesn t matter what format the template is in, as Deep Paint will just make it a DP2 project. We will have to do some final clean up in another program. (I use Photoshop but I ll try to keep everything generalized as much as possible) Once your template is loaded, we need to zoom in a little to see things better. Select the zoom tool and then go over to the area above the control panel and decide how much you d like to zoom in. You can select from presets by clicking the little arrow next to the %, or enter in your own value.
Now you ll notice that DP does not give you scroll bars to move around your image area like other programs. To move your view around to see areas that are off the main screen, you ll need to use the Pan tool. Select the Pan tool while you move it around. then simply left click once and hold down on the image You ll probably get very well acquainted with Pan and Zoom if you use DP a lot. Now, we don t want to paint directly on our template layer, so head over to the layer tab and create a new one. Now we re ready to start painting. Click on the Presets tab to bring up our brush menu. Since the sundress template is divided into a bodice and skirt area, I m going to leave the top rather simple and go a little crazy on the skirt part. I just want the top to have a plain color, but I ll go ahead and do a flood fill for all of Layer 2. Doing a flood fill in Deep Paint is undoable hence always working with multiple layers. If I find I don t like the light dusty purple color I picked out, I can always delete the layer and do another one. I also turn down the opacity of my fill layer so I can still see my template as I work. Just make sure the layer you want is selected and move the opacity slider until you can see the layer underneath while still retaining a bit of your fill color/texture. You can also change the order of your layers by left clicking, hold down, and drag above or below other layers.
I m ready now to create the texture that will go on the skirt portion of the dress. This naturally means I need another new layer to work on. Now the fun begins going through your brush options to find something to create your texture with. =) Don t forget you have the option for painting with the bump channel in place this will play a factor in your texture for Poser. Poser 5 and 6 will have no problem using the final image with the bump channel but Poser 4 will need it s own separate bump map. If you re wanting to make sure your texture will work with Poser 4, I would suggest painting with just the color channel. Then make yourself a new document within DP the same size as your template, fill the new document with gray and use the same brush with only the bump channel selected to create your bump map. To select/deselect a channel, simply click on the letter. The shine channel is tied into the Deep Paint lighting but well get into that here in a bit.
Back to my texture. I decided to use the Ivy Rainbow brush under the Texture Paints preset and make a nice little belt. For this one, I had all three channels selected. I have also gone in and changed some of the light setting to get the look you see here. The green arrow indicates which spot is the chosen default. That wasn t giving me quite what I wanted, so I selected the bottom most spot light. Since all the other default settings worked fine for me, I left them alone. But you are free to experiment with the angle of your spot light, and the ambient and spot values to get the look you want. If you save out of DP as a jpeg, tiff or other such format, it will tell you that layers cannot be saved, but that the lighting data will be included. If you choose to save out as a Photoshop.psd format, it will save your layers but not your lighting so it s all up to you as to how you want to save your file. If you have the shine channel selected it will give you a bit of your lighting if you save as a.psd file. (and it really will keep all your layers intact great for fixing seams and the like)
Just to show, on the left is a DP screenshot over the top of the copy I saved as a Photoshop file I really can t see that I lost anything that I wanted with this texture. The lighting is just slightly different between the two, but everything still looks like I want it so I m a happy little texture maker.
But I think I still want to add some stuff in DP so I ll come back to Photoshop later. Using the Old Bathhouse brush (with some adjustments to hue and saturation values) I added some lace to the bottom of the dress. On the left is how things turned out but that s a little too much so I turned down the opacity in DP to see of that would make a difference, and the part on the right is much more to my liking. Please note however, that any opacity changes made in Deep Paint will not carry over, so you ll have to make those adjustments again with your other image editor. Now I think I m ready to take my texture into Photoshop for the final steps. I m going to make sure I save my dp2 project file just in case I want (or need) to do anything else or make any adjustments, and then I ll save out my.psd copy.
With my file now in Photoshop, I can clean up the seams and make any other adjustments I might feel like. I ll also select around the outside of the template layer and delete what I don t need from the others, keeping a 5 pixel area beyond the boundaries of the template so that when I render, no funny little white lines will show around the edges or seams of the mesh. I can see though, that I m going to have to do something about the leaves because they re not going to match up along the back. I made a copy of the leaf layer, rotated the other horizontally, and then matched them up back to back and merged them back into one layer. I then matched up the center of the leaves with the center of the dress template. Now it s time to do a preview render and see if anything needs to be adjusted or changed.
For test renders, I load just the clothing model I ve made the texture for that way it doesn t take as long for Poser to render. I also use the Firefly to render in production mode with shadows turned off. This gives me a nice clean render without having to wait for poser to work up the shadow map part and it honestly doesn t take that long unless it s a poly intensive model. With the dress loaded in P5, I add the texture map. I ve attached the image map to the bump node and put the bump setting at 0.5 for this first test run. (I also zoom my camera in close to the model to see things better and then render it from a few different angles to see how everything looks)
You can see that the lace matched up rather well, and just a little bit of funky overlap on the leaves that needs some attention. I may want to play with the bump settings a little more, or even use a displacement map instead, but all in all it didn t turn out too bad. And that s a look into creating a texture with Deep Paint 2.0 the best part is just experimenting and just seeing what you can come up with.