1

2 Capsule 3: Winter

Overlocker/Serger Specialist BERNINA Educator jdavid@berninausa.com Instagram: - @berninaroadie - @jaimehock 3

Facebook LIVE! Friday, June 2 with Linda Lee The Sewing Workshop Friday, September 1 with Jen Beeman Grainline Patterns 4

Overlocker Technique Builder - Coverstitch - Elastic Waistband - Elasticator Foot In the Studio with Jen Beeman - Grainline Patterns Ramp it Up! - Portside Travel Bags Swatch Book 5

Winter Capsule Material & Supplies Threads - Seracor - Woolly Nylon Notions - Wonderclips - Swedish Trace Paper - Wonder Tape Needles - JLx 90/14 6

7

Jalie Leggings 2920 Performance Knit Spandex 8

Machine Set Up: 3-Thread Overlock - 4 4 4 6 2.5 1 9

Jalie Leggings 2920 10

Jalie Leggings 2920 Cut elastic for waist and overlap ends about 1 Sew together on sewing machine 11

Jalie Leggings 2920 12

Power Combo L 220 + L 450 13

14

Machine Set Up: 3-Thread Coverstitch Wide THREAD TENSION SETTING MACHINE SETUP Left needle Center needle Right needle Looper Stitch length Differential feed Presser foot pressure 4-4 M 3.5 N H 15

Coverstitch Tips JLx90/14 Needles - Help eliminate skipped stitches Compensating Presser Foot 16

Stitch Settings Knobs located on the right of the machine Set Stitch Length to 3-3.5 Differential Feed set to N 17

Jalie Leggings 2920 18

Height Compensating Tool 19

Ending a Seam 20

Coverstitch Success Ending a Seam Stop stitching at the end of fabric Turn the handwheel to raise the needles to the highest position Raise the presser foot 21

Coverstitch Success Ending a Seam Using tweezers, pull the needle threads out and to the left of the work. Move from behind the needles between the fabric and the presser foot sole Cut the needle threads 22

Coverstitch Success Ending a Seam Remove the fabric towards the back and to the left Cut the looper thread This will secure the stitch, while leaving ONLY the needle threads and looper thread exposed to start the next stitch successfully 23

Linden Sweatshirt Grainline Patterns 24

Machine Set Up: 4-Thread Overlock 4 4 4 4 7 2.5 1.5 25

Differential Feed 4 Settings 26

Differential Feed Gathering Effect Stretching Effect 27

Linden Sweatshirt Use the seam guide to sew on cuffs and neck binding to ensure accuracy 28

Linden Sweatshirt French Terry Bottom side of Coverstitch as decorative topstitch 29

Linden Sweatshirt Add to raglan sleeve seam before closing the side seam 30

Linden Sweatshirt Stitch from the bottom side for loops to be visible on top 31

Linden Sweatshirt Lengthened pattern by 8 No bottom band Unique knits Coverstitch hems Zippers at side 32

Linden Sweatshirt 33

34

Meet: Jen Beeman Pattern Maker living in Chicago Online - hello@grainlinestudio.com - @grainlinestudio (instagram) - www.grainlinestudio.com Favorite Machines: - BERNINA B 560 - BERNINA L 450 - BERNINA L 220 35

Grainline Patterns 36

Favorite Sewing Notion Button Sew-on Foot #18 37

Favorite BERNINA Feature Buttonhole Function 38

Favorite BERNINA Overlocker Feature Sews thick denim or thin silk Treats all fabrics like that s the exact fabric it was manufactured to handle Precise and Flexible 39

grainlinestudio.com 40

41

Portside Travel Set 42 Images from Gucci.com

Quilt It! Fusible Fleece Cork Webbing Hardware 43

Portside Travel Set Quilt It! Apply fusible batting to the back of the fabric. Mark your first line on the fabric with your favorite removable marking tool. Set up a seam guide on your presser foot or walking foot. 44

Portside Travel Set Quilt It! Topstitch a Swiss cross 45

Portside Travel Set Sewing Set-up Sewing on cork was delightful, the material was stable and easy to sew. Non-Stick Open Embroidery Foot #56 made it easy to topstitch 46

Portside Travel Set Sewing Set-up Plan your bag exterior details. Webbing can be hard to find, but the right style can make the project come together. The lining can also be a fun place to coordinate or add a pop of surprise. I used the Cotton + Steel cotton for my pocket linings too, folding over my selvedge edge. 47

Portside Travel Set Interior Pockets Add a zipper pocket to the interior lining. Make a welt pocket style opening. 48

Portside Travel Set Interior Pockets Add the zipper Add the pocket bag 49

Elasticator Foot Interior Pockets Adjustable screw 50

Elasticator Foot Interior Pockets Attach the Elasticator foot. Set up the stitch 4-3-2 thread overlock. Test the tension of the roller by adjusting the screw (1). Place the elastic under the roller and the complete foot sole. Fix the elastic by sewing a few stitches. Place the fabric under the presser foot and sew it together with the elastic. 51

Portside Travel Set Interior Pockets Once elastic is added, fold over edge and sew down with a straight stitch on your sewing machine. I started with a large rectangle, that I could cut down to the pocket shape. 52

Portside Travel Set Interior Pockets Add elastic pocket to bag ends I used a away 53

Portside Travel Set Interior Pockets Using the knit scraps, I cut binding strips to cover the raw edges. The coverage of the zipper foot #4D, worked perfectly for adding the binding to the edge. 54

Portside Travel Set 55

Cascade Duffle Coat 56

Ramp it Up! Leather Roller Foot #55 Toggle Buttons Leather Leather Cord Glue 57

Cascade Duffle Coat Helpful Tools Making toggles was fun. Special leather glue and some washi tape. 58

Cascade Duffle Coat Leather Roller Foot #55 Use topstitch or leather needles. Matching thread in a 30wt works great. Practice your stitch length on a scrap, I like 3.5mm. 59

Cascade Duffle Coat Details Red accent zipper Lavish silk lining 60

61

Swatch Book: Leggings ChitoSante Extreme Charcoal 92% Polyester 8%Spandex Performance Ponte 60%Rayon, 35%Polyester, 5%Lycra Blend 62

Swatch Book: Linden Sweatshirt Hemp Organic Jersey 55% Hemp, 45%Cotton French Terry Knit Wool, Lycra blend 63

Swatch Book: Linden Sweatshirt Floral Jacquard Knit 95% Polyester, 5% Spandex St. John Brocade 51% Rayon, 46% Acrylic, 3% Elastic 64

Swatch Book: Portside Travel Set Cork St. John Double Knit 53% Wool, 47% Rayon Quilting Cotton 100% Cotton 65

Swatch Book: Cascade Duffle Coat Wool Melton Pendleton Silk 100% Silk 66

Swatch Book: Cascade Duffle Coat Leather Milled remnants Eco-soft Suede Lace Wooden toggle buttons 67

68 Show and Share

My Capsule Wardrobe BERNINA colorway 69

Your Capsule Wardrobes Betty 70

Meet and Make Retreat DECEMBER 5-7 BERNINA Creative Center Join us in person for the first Meet and Make Retreat Open to the Club Members and Participating Stores Create two new pieces for your Capsule Wardrobe Special Guest Ambassador Instructor: Jen Beeman 71

We d love to see your Creations! Post your project photos to social media Upload to Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, and Pinterest It s easy just place the following at the end of your photo description! - #berninasewcialclub - #berninacapsule - #berninausa Share what you create with the world! 72