Sewing Techniques Portfolio September 2015 Instructor: Joan McKenna (Print Without Scaling or Shrink to Fit) Illustrator work by John Zeller Crimp Line is ½ from Cut Line 5/8 Seam Allowance
8½ x 11 Basic Pattern Cut 40 Woven Fabric Cut 2 Woven Interfacing Make 2 interfaced fabric sandwiches using the 2 cut pieces of woven interfacing and 4 cut pieces of woven fabric. See Sewing Techniques Portfolio Instructions for additional directions. Mark 1 for buttonholes and mark 1 for closures. Make 4 fabric sandwiches using 8 cut pieces of woven fabric. See Sewing Techniques Portfolio Instructions for additional directions. These sandwiches are for the following: Learn to Sew Straight Lines Learn to Sew Corners Learn to Sew Spirals Patch Pockets Lengthwise Warp Grain Keep additional cut woven single layer fabric pieces for various other learning experiences. 2
Practice Control Sheet #1 Straight Stitching 1. Trace lines onto a 2 layer backed and serged or edge stitched fabric sandwich. 2. Stitch without thread, right onto this paper, to learn machine control. Back Stitch at each end. 3. Stitch with thread onto your marked fabric sandwich to learn how to control fabric and thread. Remember to Back Stitch both ends of the stitching line. (Not a Pattern) 3
(Not a Pattern) Practice Control Sheet #2 Corners 1. Trace lines onto a 2 layer backed and serged or edge stitched fabric sandwich. 2. Stitch without thread, right onto this paper, to learn machine control. Back Stitch at each end. 3. Stitch with thread onto your marked fabric sandwich to learn how to control fabric and thread. Remember to Back Stitch both ends of the stitching line. 4
Practice Control Sheet #3 Spirals 1. Trace lines onto a 2 layer backed and serged or edge stitched fabric sandwich. 2. Stitch without thread, right onto this paper, to learn machine control. Back Stitch at each end. 3. Stitch with thread onto your marked fabric sandwich to learn how to control fabric and thread. Remember to Back Stitch both ends of the stitching line. (Not a Pattern) 5
(Not a Pattern) Regular Dart Practice 1 1. Use 4 8½ x 11 cut fabric pieces. 2. Trace straight leg dart onto cut pieces. 6
Fisheye Dart Practice 2 1. Use 2 8½ x 11 cut fabric pieces. 2. Trace fish eye dart onto cut pieces. (Not a Pattern) 7
Lengthwise or Crosswise For Bias Grain Cut 18 Woven Fabric Seam Practice Pattern 9 inches on grain 4 inches wide Lengthwise Warp Grain Cut 44 Woven Fabric Cut 18 Knit Fabric Cut 1 Polyester or Nylon Tricot 8
Grain Lengthwise Warp (RT) Right Angle Seam Pattern Pattern Piece 2 of 2 5/8 seam line allowance 5/8 Seams Cut 2 Woven Fabric seam line stay stitch line (1/2 from cut line) Cut line when needle is down at circled point (RT) Right Angle Seam Pattern Pattern Piece 1 of 2 5/8 Seams Cut 2 Woven Fabric There is also a couture method to do this. See instructor to learn. Lengthwise Warp Grain 9
Seam Line Lengthwise Warp Grain Crimp Line is 1/2 from cut edge Curved Seam Pattern Pattern Piece 2 of 2 1/2 Crimp Line 5/8 Seams 1/2 Crimp First Cut 2 Woven Fabric Seam Line Stay Stitch Line Stay Stitch Line is 1/2 from cut edge Curved Seam Pattern Pattern Piece 1 of 2 5/8 Seams 1/2 Stay Stitch First Cut 2 Woven Fabric Lengthwise Warp Grain 10
Center Front Cut on Fold Seam Line V-Neck Facing Pattern 5/8 Seams Stay stitch First Pattern Piece 2 of 2 Cut 2 Woven Fabric Cut 2 Woven Interfacing 5/8 Seam Allowance 11
5/8 Seam Allowance Stay Stitch Line 1/2 from Cut Line V-Neck Pattern To Practice Under & 1/2 inch Stay Stitching 5/8 Seams Stay stitch First Pattern Piece 1 of 2 Cut 2 Woven Fabric Seam Line Center Front Cut on Fold 12
Cutting Lines of Patch Pocket Pocket Attached with Machine Top stitching Hem Line Lengthwise Warp Grain Patch Pocket Pattern Cut 6 Woven Fabric Make 1 attached lined pocket and 1 attached single layer pocket 13
Cutting Line 5/8 Pocket Bag Stitching Line Lengthwise Warp Grain In Seam Pocket Pattern (Represents the Garment) Pattern Piece 1 of 2 Cut 4 Woven Fabric 14
Bodice Front Facing & Interfacing Pattern Pattern Piece 6 of 7 Cut 4 Woven Fabric Cut 4 Woven Interfacing Lengthwise Warp Grain Lengthwise Warp Grain In Seam Pocket Pattern Pattern Piece 2 of 2 Cut 4 Woven Fabric Pocket Bag 5/8 Stitching Line Cutting Line 15
Front Includes Overlap for Buttons Front Bodice Pattern Pattern Piece 1 of 7 1. Join bodice front to bodice back by sewing shoulder and side seams. 2. Press seams open. Cut 4 Woven Fabric Center Front Lengthwise Warp Grain 16
Back Bodice Pattern Pattern Piece 2 of 7 1. Join bodice front to bodice back by sewing shoulder and side seams. 2. Press seams open. Cut 2 Woven Fabric Center Back Cut on Fold 17
Cut on Fold Back Bodice Facing Pattern Pattern Piece 3 of 7 Cut 2 Woven Fabric Cut 2 Woven Interfacing Shirt Collar Pattern Part A Pattern Piece 4 of 7 Piece Together with Part B and Tape Together Lengthwise Warp Grain Match Circle and Tape Pattern Pieces Together PATTERN UNDERLAP Shirt Collar Pattern Part B Pattern Piece 5 of 7 Piece Together with Part A and Tape Together Lengthwise Warp Grain Cut 4 Woven Fabric and 2 Woven Interfacing 18
Crimp Line is between Cut Line and Seam Line Sleeve Pattern Pattern Piece 7 of 7 1. To practice easing sleeve cap. 2. To practice adding elastic for wrist ruffle. Cut 4 Woven Fabric Lengthwise Warp Grain Guideline for wrist ruffle 19