FANTASTIC DRAWSTRING PURSE Jenny Haskins Purses are so in vogue at present but they are also really outrageously priced so here is a beautiful purse that is fun to make and looks just magic. NOTE: Pattern piece No 1 (flat layout of purse fabric) and pattern piece No 2 and No 3 (purse base pattern for fabric and cardboard) are found on Creative Expressions CE # 10 pattern sheet. MATERIALS Embroidery/sewing machine with 225mm x 140mm hoop Design software and transfer device Fantasy with Fans design CD by Jenny Haskins: design fan02b 29cm (11 1/2in) across the width of the silk fabric for the purse 29cm (11 1/2in) across the width of the fusible batting to back the purse fabric 20cm (8in) across the width of the lining fabric 25cm x 10cm (10in x 4in) piece of black lace for the embroidery appliqué 1.4m (1 1/2yd) x 6cm (2 1/4in) edging lace 1m (1 1/8yd) x 12mm (1/2in) braid to cover the gathered edge of the lace 1.5m (1 2/3yd) x 12mm (1/2in) diameter cord for the handles 2m (2yd) x 6mm (1/4in) diameter cord for the drawstrings 1m (1 1/8yd) piping for around the base of the purse 2m (2yd) x 2.5cm (1in)-wide double-sided edging braid for around the base (inside and outside the purse) 2.5cm (1in) bias binding to bind the seams inside the purse around the base Needle: Microtex 80 needle Machine feet: embroidery foot, directional foot, zipper foot and open-toe foot Threads: Robison-Anton rayon 40 threads: black and metallic gold Pre-wound fine black bobbins 28cm x 13cm (11in x 5in) piece of cardboard/lightweight plastic for the purse base 4 gold beads/metal ends for drawstring ends Craft glue to glue the braid on the inside and outside base edge of the purse Vellum tracing paper to print the embroidery template Self-adhesive sticky stabiliser for the hoop embroidery and tear-away stabiliser for the decorative stitching Fabric-marking pen Cardboard scissors or cutting device Basting spray or spray glue Large bodkin to thread cords through the casing Ruler and lead pencil Rotary cutter, self-healing cutting mat and quilting ruler Heavy-duty spray starch General sewing requirements PREPARATION 1 Before cutting the purse fabric, use three coats of heavy-duty spray starch to stabilise it, ironing between each layer. 2 From the purse fabric and fusible batting, cut: two, 37.5cm x 29cm (14 3/4in x 11 1/2in) strips for the purse two, 29cm x 15cm (11 1/2in x 6in) strips for the base Fuse the batting to the back of each fabric piece using a hot steam iron. 3 From the lining fabric, cut: two, 37.5cm x 20.3cm (14 3/4in x 8in) strips. 1
4 From Creative Expressions No 10 pattern sheet trace then cut out the purse base fabric pattern (piece No 2) and then use a fabric-marking pen to trace around it on the two base fabric strips one for the base lining and the other for the bottom of the purse. Use the pattern as a guide to mark a 12mm (1/2in) seam line, then cut out the base fabric pieces on the line. 5 Trace then cut out the purse base cardboard pattern (piece No 3) and then use a lead pencil to trace around the base pattern on a heavy-weight piece of cardboard or plastic. Use cardboard scissors to cut this out. 6 Refer to pattern piece No 1. Use a quilting ruler and fabric-marking pen or pencil to mark in the seam allowances, fold line, casing lines, casing openings, and the positions of the buttonholes for the purse handles on both the front and back fabric purse pieces. Also mark the centre front and back of the purse with a vertical line. 7 Find the centre of the purse fabric between the lower casing line and the bottom seam line of the purse and rule a horizontal line across both the front and back fabric purse pieces, making sure they line up at the side seams. 8 Use your software to transfer the fan design (fan02b) to your sewing machine and print a template of the design on vellum tracing paper. 9 Centre the fan design on the front purse fabric piece, over the centre front vertical line and the horizontal embroidery guideline so the widest edge of each fan sits over the horizontal guideline. On the horizontal line, mark a position that is 6mm (1/4in) inside the fan on both sides; these marks indicate where the decorative stitching ends the fan embroidery then just covers each end of the embroidery stitches. 10 Use a straight stitch to join the front and back purse fabric pieces together down one side seam only remember to leave a 2cm (3/4in) opening between the casing seam lines for the drawstrings. Press the seam open from the back of the fabric. DECORATIVE STITCH-BUILDING NOTE: All decorative stitches use a stabiliser at the back of the fabric, the Microtex 80 needle, rayon 40 threads in the Microtex 80 needle, a pre-wound fine black bobbin and an open-toe foot for all embroidery, except the stepped memory sequence which uses a directional foot. 11 The marked horizontal line that marks the actual centre of the purse front and back is used as a guideline for the stitch-building. 12 Embroidery sequence: Black thread 9mm-wide satin stitch, density 0.25, centred over horizontal guideline 2mm-wide satin stitch, density 0.25, on either side of the 9mm-wide satin stitch so the 2mmwide satin stitch aligns with and just sits over the edge and on either side of it. Gold thread open cross stitch, width 6mm, length 6mm, centred over the top of the 9mm-wide satin stitch stitch sequence in a memory (two rows of stitching at once, on either side of the 2mm-wide satin stitching using the directional foot) satin stitch scallop, width and length 6, density 0.25 x one directional stitch, one up from 3 o clock position x five satin stitch scallop, width and length 6, density 0.25 x one directional stitch, one up from 9 o clock position x five 2
13 Remove excess stabiliser from the back of the embroidery stitching and press. EMBROIDERY NOTE: The hoop embroidery uses self-adhesive tear-away stabiliser in the hoop, the embroidery foot, a Microtex 80 needle, rayon 40 threads in the Microtex 80 needle and a fine pre-wound black bobbin. 14 Place the self-adhesive tear-away stabiliser in the 225mm x 140mm hoop with the protective coating uppermost. Use a pin or needle to score around the inside edge of the hoop; also score (on the protective coating only) diagonal lines from corner to corner that intersect through the centre. Lift the coating from the centre and remove the four triangles, exposing the sticky side of the stabiliser. 15 Select fan design fan02b and then place the hoop in the sewing machine. Centre the front purse fabric under the needle, lining up the vertical and horizontal lines on the fabric with those marked on the hoop, then press the fabric flat and smooth. 16 Select the basting stitch function to hold the fabric to the hoop, then embroider the fan design using the black lace fabric for the appliqué. Embroidery thread change and colour sequence: Colour 1 appliqué outline black thread. Insert the appliqué lace fabric under the needle, making sure it covers the appliqué outline. Colour 2 appliqué outline black thread. Remove the hoop from the machine (not the fabric from the hoop) and then use a small sharp pair of scissors to cut around the outside edge of the appliqué lace, close to the row of stitching. Place the hoop back in the sewing machine. Colour 3 small e stitch black thread. Colour 4 cutwork bars black thread. Colour 5 leaves black thread. Colour 6 meandering ribbon black thread. Colour 7 dots on ribbon gold thread. Colour 8 connecting scallops black thread. Colour 9 outside edge of fans black thread. Colour 10 flowers gold thread. Colour 11 flower in centre gold thread. Colour 12 flower centres black thread. Colour 13 centre flower centre black thread. 17 Remove the fabric from the hoop, making sure the stabiliser is removed from the back of the embroidery. Press the embroidery from the back of the fabric with a hot steam iron. 3
CONSTRUCTING THE PURSE Diagram 1 18 Refer to pattern piece No 1 for the buttonhole positions on the purse, then use black thread to embroider four 2.5cm (1in) buttonholes in black thread for the cord handles to pass through. Diagram 2 19 Use the open-toe foot and black thread in the needle and bobbin to embroider a 9mm-wide satin stitch over the joined side seam of the purse, remembering not to embroider over the 2cm (3/4in) casing opening but over the embroidery. A 2mm-wide satin stitch is embroidered down 2cm (3/4in) on either side of the casing opening, connecting the 9mm-wide satin stitching; the outside edge of the 2mm-wide satin stitch therefore lining up with the edge of the 9mm-wide satin stitching. 4
Diagram 3 20 Join up the other side seam of the purse and repeat step 19 on this side seam. 21 Join the side seams of the lining fabric to make a cylinder, then attach this to the top edge of the purse fabric, right sides facing and stitching from the wrong side of the fabric, then fold the facing and the lining to the inside of the purse. Press the fold and pin the facing to the purse, then stitch the casing along the drawn parallel lines 2cm (3/4in) apart. 22 Cut the narrow cord for the drawstrings in half, then use the large bodkin to thread the drawstring cords through the casing. Diagram 4 23 Tie a knot on all four ends of the drawstring cords before the metal ends are clamped and glued over the knots. Alternatively, thread a bead over each cord end and tie a knot to hold the beads in place. 24 Cut the handle cords in half and then thread each end of each cord through the buttonholes under the casing. Knot each end on the underside of the fabric to hold the handles in place. Diagram 5 5
25 Gather up the edging lace to fit the top folded edge of the purse, then stitch it to the right side of the purse, close to the folded edge (wrong side of lace to right side of purse fabric). The gathered edge of the lace should be parallel to the folded edge of the purse, close to the fold with the scalloped edge of the lace sitting above the folded edge of the purse. Refer to pattern piece No 1, as well as diagrams 1 and 2. 26 Stitch the 12mm (1/2in) flat braid over the gathered edge of the lace around the top of the purse, so that the inside edge of the braid aligns with the top row of casing stitching. Refer to pattern piece No 1. 27 Lightly spray the cardboard or plastic base on both sides with basting spray, then sandwich it, centred between the wrong sides of the base fabric and the lining base fabric. 28 Use the zipper foot and needle positions to stitch around the outside edge of the base insert, close to the edge of the cardboard/plastic on the right side of the base fabric. 29 On the right side of the base fabric, use the zipper foot to attach the piping around the cardboard/plastic insert stitch line. Make sure the piping is to the centre of the base and the raw fabric edge of piping is parallel to the raw fabric edges of the base fabrics. Clip the curves to make the piping sit flat. 30 Pin the purse and the lining to the base, lining up the side seams to the centre of each end of the purse base and making sure the embroidery is centred in the front of the purse. The right side of the purse faces the right side of the base. Pin from the lining side of the purse slightly gathering or easing it to fit then clip the curves to help the seams sit flat. 31 Trim the seam allowance to 6mm (1/4in), then bind the raw fabric edges around the base using the 2.5cm (1in) bias binding. 32 Use the craft glue to attach the 2.5cm (1in)-wide double-sided braid around the base lining on the inside of the purse this should cover the binding and align the outside edge of the braid with the edge of the bound seams. 33 Turn the purse to the right side by pushing the base down and pulling the purse up and over the base. 34 Use the craft glue to glue the 2.5cm (1in)-wide double-sided braid around the bottom edge of the purse, aligning the bottom edge of the braid with the edge of the piping. 35 Pull up the drawstrings (pull both strings together on either side of the purse) to close the purse and then pull the handles up over the purse. I have made this purse in black, grey and gold to match the embroidery shawl, but it looks great in any fabric or colour, and will always be functional and stylish. Created and produced by Unique Creative Opportunities Pty Ltd and Jenny Haskins, Sydney Text, photographs, machine embroidery and project designs copyright Jenny Haskins 2006 All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this compilation. The notes, the class, the kit and verbal information are for personal use only. It is against copyright to copy or teach this class without the copyright owners written permission. We thank you for understanding and respecting the rights of the Copyright Owner. 6