SE5a Instrument Board part 2 - rev 1.1

SE5a Instrument Board part 2 - rev 1.1 Fuel (Petrol) Valve This valve uses two circular name plates, eight brass screws, one black plastic base, copper wire and two black plastic risers. You can pick any of the four positions that the center name plate can point too. There really isn t a correct one. The prototype selected the OFF position. Remember there are two gas tanks on the plane which the emergency gas tank can be found in the leading edge of the top center wing (port side). The name plates #3.73, #3.76 might still have a little laser cutting residue. You can wipe clean each plate with a glass window cleaner or something similar. Do not use any type of solvent such as thinner. The four outer brass screws #6.75 are intentionally too long. This length will help you work with the screw as well as add glue to the threads permanently mounting them in place. You will trim them flush once installed. Thread the brass screws #6.75 into the outer plate #3.73 and black base #3.77. The outer plate #3.73 should be oriented where the OFF is at the 3 o clock position. Locate the four instrument board holes securing the base and outer plate by screwing the brass screws through the instrument board. See photo below

The four screws #6.57 are small. Three black risers #3.78 each have four holes. These risers are stacked on top of each other. The riser with small diameter holes should be on the bottom when the risers are put on top of each other. This will help secure the four screws and seat the screws properly against the plate when assembled. The goal is to get the top of the screws #6.57 flush with the top of the plate #3.76 when installed. Don t over thread the screws as you could break one. They are brass and sort-of delicate. Be careful and take your time. Start by working over the building table threading one screw thru the plate and three risers. Then do the remaining three screws. Keep the screws vertically straight. You want to get them to seat properly. See photos below Decide on the position you want for the inner dial then use some epoxy securing the inner dial in position. (Note it would not be hard to make this dial rotate. Just add a screw to the back of the inner dial allowing it to rotate.) See photo below

Manufacture plate The manufacture plate #6.84 sits above the compass. It identifies the manufacture and serial number. This is a custom plate GTM will make for your plane. Contact us with your serial number. The plate is pre-drilled and ready for installation. Using four nails #6.52 secure the manufacture s plate in position above the compass in the four pre-drilled holes. Ensure the plate and nails are seated all the way down then glue the nails in position from the instrument board backside. Trim and flush nails once glue is dry. See photo below

Compass This SE5a kit uses the very common C.O. (Creagh-Osborne) air compass type 5/17. Pilot s sometimes refer to this compass as The Divers Helmet. The compass uses a 3D printed body, back plate and bezel, thirteen brass nails, seven brass screws, lens, faceplate, five brass washers, black plastic ring and two brass hex nuts. The compass back plate #3.39 will be mounted to the plywood back #5.178. The 3D parts should be painted before installing. Prime and paint the back plate #3.39, main body #3.22 and bezel #3.43 satin or semi-gloss black. Don t get happy with the paint. This component is the center piece of the instrument board. The plywood back #5.178 is pre-drilled helping you locate the compass plate #3.39. Insert six brass nails #6.52 into the back plate #3.39 first. Then push the nails into the plywood #5.178 just be careful not to damage the 3D printed part. Screw the four brass screws #6.77 into the top and bottom holes. Use some thin CA glue or something similar to secure these screws / pins in place. Glue from the back side of the instrument board. Install the main body #3.22 onto the back plate #3.39 using three brass screws #6.81, five washers #6.83 and two hex nuts #6.82. There are three mounting bars that stick out from the back plate. The bottom mounting bar will use one screw and washer. It will require you drill into the main body allowing the screw to extend into the main body. Using a 1/16-inch drill bit carefully drill thru the bottom bar into the main body. See photos below

The screw head should be on the bottom as the screw threads upward. Using the washers, screws and hex nut secure the main compass body to the back plate. You might consider adding some Loctite to the threads ensuring the hex nut does not come loose. You should have two washers, screw and hex nut on each side mounting bar and a screw, washer on the bottom mounting bar. See photos below Assemble the bezel #3.43 using seven nails #6.52 and one plastic base ring #3.84. Start by inserting the seven brass nails into the bezel and base ring. Ensure the brass nail head is seated properly against the bezel. Carefully, add some CA glue to the brass nails. Trim the brass nail stems. See photos below

The lens #3.57 has been laser cut to be installed without glue. Test fit to see how it fits into the back of the bezel. If it seems too snug slightly sand the edges a little to make it a snug fit but not a loose fit. Remove the outer white protective plastic from the lens without scratching the lens. Carefully, press the lens into the bezel making sure it is seated all the way in. The lens will slightly stick above the back of the base ring, that is ok. Remove any finger prints or foreign objects (dust) off the lens. See photo below Center the cardboard ring #10.10 around the compass face plate. The face plate has a white cross at the bottom which should help with alignment. The ring should have a hole at 12 o clock. Using a T-pin locate all ring holes into the face plate. Cut the face plate slightly on the inside of those holes. See photo below Use a black magic marker covering the cardboard ring white edges.

Position the face plate, bezel, lens and ring onto the compass body. The cardboard ring is laser cut to make a snug fit. Once you have these pieces center and aligned then carefully glue these parts in place. See photo below Clinometer This SE5a kit uses the very common Elliott clinometer. It uses a 3D printed housing, plastic tube and two brass nails. You will notice some numbers and mark lines on the front. Notice that the plastic housing #3.34 will warp which makes the top thin strap bow. If you slightly bend the housing back to shape that thin strap will straighten out getting closer to the main housing body. Lightly paint the housing a semi-gloss or satin black. Too much paint will make the numbers and tick marks disappear. This is optional but you can highlight the numbers and tick marks with white if desired. A technique to do this is laying down some masking tape then apply and spread a thin white paint layer. Then carefully push the housing down onto the painted tape. Remove any white paint from any unwanted areas. See photos below

The housing #3.34 is mounted to the instrument board using two brass nails #6.59. The nail stem width is larger than the two holes found in the housing. Using drill bit #6.34 you can slightly enlarge the hole allowing the brass nail to slide thru the housing. The tubing #3.104 is longer than you need. Insert the tube into the housing slot found on the backside ensuring one end is snug against the slot wall. Then cut the other end so the tube is flush and snug against the other slot wall. You can add a little glue securing the tube to the housing if desired. Optional, you can add some machine oil to the inside of the tube plugging both ends before installing the tube. See photos below Carefully, use two nails #6.59 into the housing pressing them into the instrument board holes found below the compass. See plans and photo below

Air pressure selector valve This valve uses a name plate, four steel screws, one wood base, plastic arm, washer, copper wire, rivet and a hex nut. You can pick any of the four positions that the name plate can point too. There really isn t a correct one. The prototype selected the pressure release position. Actually, the arm should rotate once assembled. The wood base #5.222 is secured in place with screw #6.84 which is threaded from the backside of the instrument board. The three copper wire pieces #4.82 are secured into the wood base slots. The wood base should be rotated so the two screws #6.36 will be on the right side. Reference plans. The copper wires attach to the wood base slight above the instrument board. You will need two copper wires. Starting with the bottom wire; cut a 1-inch piece of wire #4.82. Remove the black protective cover. The wire needs to be slightly bent as it will go through the cockpit stiffener. You can use the steel pipe #4.18 found in the kit. Put the pipe into a vise with the center of the wire over the pipe slightly bend the wire. To add some realism, you can solder or sliver paint the wire as it exits the wood base. The wire should be epoxied into place. Cut copper wire #4.82 two inches long. Remove the black protective cover. This upper copper wire needs to have a 90- degree bend as it will need to go through the instrument board hole that is above the wood base location. You can use the steel pipe #4.18 found in the kit. Put the pipe into a vise with the center of the wire over the pipe bend the wire. Test fit wire in base and instrument board. To add some realism, you can solder or sliver paint the wire as it exits the wood base. The wire should be epoxied into place. See photos below

Using the three screws #6.36 secure the face plate #3.79 to the base. The word Hand Pump should be at the 3o clock. See photo below Thread screw #6.84 from the instrument board backside into the wood base. The screw thread should protrude above the face plate. See photo below

Insert the rivet #6.19 into the small hole of the air pressure arm. The top of the rivet should be about 1/8-inch above the arm. Once you have the height set, glue the rivet in place. Cut and carefully flush the rivet stem with the arm. See photos below Add the spring washer #3.81 to the protruded center screw. See photo below Add air pressure arm #3.82 and hex nut #6.40 to the center screw. The arm position can point to any position as desired. Tighten the hex nut so the arm can slightly move around. The arm should clear the face plate screw heads. See photo below

Hand pump The hand pump uses a wood base, plastic ring, brass tube, wood handle, six brass screws, brass rod, rubber grommet and plastic cap. You will need to cut / sand the wood handle #5.222 as well as drill a hole in the handle for the rod #5.65. The handle outline is laser etched into the wood #5.223. You might have to move the wood to see the outline but it s there. Cut the handle out of the wood. Take your time cutting on the outside of the laser etched lines. See photo below Using a 7/64-inch drill bit drill the hole for the rod #6.80. Using a vise or something similar to hold the wood vertical to the drill bit. Center drill the handle starting on the inside handle edge. Take your time. See photos below Finish sanding the handle to shape. Walnut is a nice wood to sand; don t go happy with sand paper, files or a 1-inch belt sander work well. Your handle should look similar to the one shown below. The walnut should be stained with a clear satin or something similar. See photos below

Insert rod #6.80 into the handle. The rod should fit snuggly to the point you might need to tap it in place with a hammer. The end of the rod should be flush with the end of the handle. See photos below The plastic cap #3.83 goes onto the end of the brass tube #6.79. The cap barely fits the brass tube. Use your heat gun to heat up the plastic cap helping it go over the brass tube. A small screw driver might help slip the cap over the brass tube. Yes, it is possible. Make sure the plastic cap seats properly onto the top of the brass tube. See photo below

The plastic cap should be painted a satin black. Using some masking tape; tape over the brass tube and paint the plastic cap. See photos below Insert the rubber grommet #6.86 into the plastic cap. It will be a little loose which is ok. Insert the cardboard insert #10.16 inside the brass tube. Add the spring #6.87 to the brass rod before you insert the brass rod into the rubber grommet then into the cardboard insert. The handle should stick above the rubber grommet about a 1/2-inch when it s in the stationary position. You should carefully glue the cardboard insert in place. See photos below The base #5.224 and black plastic ring #3.80 need to be mounted to the instrument board first then the hand pump assembly is inserted. Thread the six brass screws #6.76 thru the ring, base then into the instrument board. Then insert the hand pump assembly into the instrument board. See photo below

Ammo drum container The ammo drum container is located above the instrument board. It is made of wood which is secured to the instrument board using two metal brackets. It is designed to hold an extra ammo drum for the Lewis gun. You will form the two metal brackets first then create the wooden box. Remove the two flat pattern brackets #4.69 from the photo etched sheet. Carefully, file any remaining metal tab off the brackets. The brackets are secured in place using screws and nails. Notice the orientation of the brackets. See photo below The six holes will need to be slightly enlarged to accept the screws #6.76 and nail #6.59. The two brackets are identical and symmetrical. Enlarge one set of holes for the screws and the other set for the nails. Test fit these parts in the holes. The bracket tabs that have the holes need to be bent 90 degrees. Secure the bracket and bend these two tabs 90 degrees. See photos below

The brackets should be painted a semi-gloss or satin black. Do that now. The container box is made out of wood which is rather straight forward to build. You should shellac or stain these pieces prior to assembly. Do that now if desired. The box will be built upside down. Secure the top piece #5.28 to the building table. Glue the center back piece #5.229 in place make sure it is vertically straight and flush with the top piece edges. See photos below The two side pieces are different. The right side piece #5.230 has the holes. Make sure that piece is glued to the left side as you are building the box upside down. Glue this piece in place with the small holes towards the front. Glue the left side piece #5.231 in position as well. See photos below

The brackets are secured to the bottom of the box using six nails #6.59 which will be trimmed and filed flush after they are installed. Add the brackets #4.69 to the bottom piece #5.29 now using these nails. Ensure the nail head is seated all the way down and the brackets are oriented correctly. Glue nails in place. Then cut the stem and file flat. See photos below Glue the bottom piece with brackets to the boxed. If you have not shellac the box yet do so now. See photo below The kit does not contain a spare ammo drum because when installed in the box a portion of the instrument board is covered. Decision was to leave it out allowing a clear view of the instrument board. Although, they are available from Ziroli plans if desired. The ammo drum is secured in place with two wire braces which are seated in the small holes then go thru the larger hole creating a spring like feature securing the spare drum in place. The wire #6.93 is long enough for three wire springs. Cut one 4- inch piece from the long wire #6.93. Bend the wire in half then at the ends make a 90-degree bend about 1/8-inch long. See photo below

Insert this wire thru the large hole from the outside of the box. Then bend the wire so the two 90-degree bends go into the small holes. Use some pliers to help accomplish this. Trim any wire stems that protrude into the box. See photo below Bend, form and slightly spread the wire out making it look like the photo below. Repeat this process for the other wire. Glue the wire in place from the outside of the box where it enters the small holes. See photo below

This box is secured to the instrument board using six brass screws #6.76. You will notice six pre-drilled holes assuring the proper installation. Position and secure the ammo box to the instrument board. See photo below