Instruction Sheet MCHE 365 & I-Tech 344 Lathe & Mill Machining Operations Pencil Organizer Project, FALL 2015 1 Always flip to 1 st page & leave your drawings & instructions on your Machine at end of class. Do NOT Remove them from the machine. See videos on www.manualmachining.com 1. IMPORTANT NOTES: (Circle sentence numbers after you complete each machining operation). Notify the Instructor if you find discrepancies between the Instructions and the Drawings 2. Always chuck any part as far in the chuck as possible before beginning any machining or drilling operation. 3. Add approximately ½ extra space for overhang pass the chuck jaws to the distance the part will have to be turned. 4. If performing a drilling operation, allow only a short amount of overhang, approximately ½ to insure that the hole will be drilled dead center. 5. When cutting a diameter, too much overhang can also result in push off of the part away from the cutting tool when the cutting tool applies pressure to the part. This can cause chattering of the cutting tool (a loud noise can be heard). This action will result in the part being cut oversize and will give it a checkered appearance. It can also cause the insert to fracture. 6. Make certain that your cutting tool has been fastened securely with the tool post handle. Nothing should be loose during any machining operation. 7. When placing a part in chuck, tighten it with a chuck key very tight. 8. Never take your hand off of it while the chuck key is in the chuck. This is to prevent the chuck key from being thrown when the lathe is started, striking you and causing serious injury. 9. Do not use the Red Emergency Stop on the starting switch to stop the machine after each machining operation. This can wear out the clutch prematurely. Use the Neutral position instead. Use the Red Emergency Stop only in case of an emergency that requires the machine to be stopped immediately or to oscillate the chuck when you change gears. 10. Always change gears only when the machine is at a full stop. 11. You should rotate the chuck by hand while applying pressure to the shifting levers to properly position them. 12. Before turning the power on to the machine, make sure the start switch is in Neutral Position and not in the Red Zone (Emergency Stop). 13. When drilling a part, always use a small amount of oil to reduce friction and heat and to keep the drills sharp. 14. Never Drag Insert across part over a long distance when Lathe is stopped. This may cause the insert to fracture and produce a very rough cut if it cuts at all. 15. Before removing a part from the chuck jaws, always chamfer immediately after machining a diameter to maintain concentricity of the chamfer to the diameter. If for any reason you must remove the part from the chuck before finishing, you should first mark a cross line on the part adjacent to jaw #1 to realign the part later.
16. Refer to the Drawing for machining Details. The measurements on the individual drawings take precedence over the instructions detail measurements if there is a discrepancy. Notify your instructor if one is found. LATHE Facing the Cylinder Ends 17. Stock needed for machining the Cylinder is one piece of 4 O.D. x 2 ½ long aluminum round rough stock. 18. FACING OFF A PART - Place part in 3-jaw chuck leaving only 1.375 of part to overhang jaws. 19. With machine stopped, make the following adjustments on the lathe: 20. Set Chuck RPM s to 654. 21. Set the ABC Knob and the Quick Change Tumbler # s 1 through 8, to achieve a Surface Speed of.0036 per revolution of the chuck. 22. Set Chuck RPM s to 654 and oscillate chuck to red and back to neutral. 23. Place the reverse lever in the down position for cross feeding. 24. Position the 35-degree cutting tool on the outer end of the part and touch the part lightly with the point of the insert. 25. Set the red needle on the outer dial of the Travel Dial to 0. 26. Set the cutting tool to take a facing cut by rotating the Crossfeed Dial counterclockwise to move the cutting tool toward the operator. Move the cutting tool to the left.020 with the Carriage Handwheel. Never cut more than.025 on a facing cut in a single pass so as not to break the insert (it can be less). 27. You may have to take several repetitive cuts to clean off all saw marks from the end. 28. When you are ready to begin machining, pull the feed control lever to the right & down to begin facing off the part. Put light left pressure on the carriage hand wheel with left hand to remove backlash & keep carriage from moving when making facing cuts. The Travel Dial Red Needle should not move. 29. Start by facing off on one end just enough to remove all saw marks. Several cuts may be necessary. 30. Upon completion of the Facing operation on the first end, remove part; flip end-to-end & re-chuck. IMPORTANT ask Instructor to place parallel behind part to align the part before machining 2 nd end. Do not do this on your own. Face Off the opposite end until all saw marks are removed at.020 max depth of cut at a time with a 35-degree cutting tool. 31. Next, measure part while still in chuck with a caliper. Do not remove part. Continue facing off.020 at a time until part measures the proper length as is shown in drawing. There is a tolerance of plus or minus.010 32. DRILLING A CENTER HOLE IN THE CYLINDER AT 654 RPM S, Centerdrill a tapered hole 2/3 the length of the taper of the Centerdrill. 33. Next, at 351 RPM S, using the 37/64 drillbit thru part. 34. Add oil in hole. At 351 RPM S, using a 5/8 Reamer for accuracy, ream only once thru the part. Feed the drill bit in slowly with the Tailstock Handwheel to produce a smooth cut and back out slowly. Do Not chamfer this hole. Do not feed reamer in & out. Drill in one direction only for accuracy. 35. Remove the part from the three-jaw chuck. 2
36. CUTTING THE GEAR DIAMETER OF THE CYLINDER 3.917 Locate a 5/8 Mandrel and place in 3 jaw chuck in Lathe and tighten with chuck key. Slide a 1.0 long aluminum spacer first, then the 4 O.D. Cylinder part, just machined and a metal washer and nut in this exact order. Be sure to tighten nut with an adjustable wrench tight. 37. Set Chuck speed to 654 RPM s. 38. Insert a Live Center from the lathe cutting tools cabinet in the Tailstock of the lathe and lock in place. Tailstock Ram should first be positioned at 1/2 on the graduated scale. 39. Continue using the 35-degree lathe-cutting tool. 40. Move 35-degree tool in position 1/16 past right end of part. 41. Slide Tailstock in position by proceeding in this order: 42. Slide Tailstock until the base of it touches the carriage. 43. Rotate the Tailstock Crank Handle until the Live Center lightly touches the mandrel. 44. Rotate Crank Handle on Tailstock clockwise to the right until the Knob reaches the 12 o clock position. 45. Lightly and very slowly tighten the Tailstock Handle. The knob of the Tailstock Handle should be positioned between 1 and 5 o clock. Do Not Over Tighten. It can cause damage to the Chuck Bearing. 46. Touch the end of the part with the 35-degree cutting tool and zero out both needles on the travel dial. 47. Move the cutting tool toward the operator and to the left 2.362 and ZERO the travel dial a second time to mark the End Position that the Distance the O.S. diameter will be cut. The cutting tool will move passed the end of the part by about.050. 48. Next, move the cutting tool 1/8 from the right end of the part and lightly touch the diameter of the part by turning the Crossfeed Handle clockwise. Loosen the small locking knob on the Crossfeed Handle. Hold the Crossfeed Handle with left hand and reposition graduated scale with right hand until it is zeroed out. Do not permit the Crossfeed Handle to move or rotate during this process so that the cutting tool remains in position on the outer diameter of the part. The tool should NEVER touch at the corner of the part. Move cutting tool about 1/8 to the right of the part. 49. Position the reversing lever in the upward position in the top hole. Set the Lathe Start Switch to on. The chuck should begin rotating. Carefully position the Feed Control Lever to the left and Up to begin cutting the diameter of the part. The cutting tool should begin moving to the left. When the cutting tool reaches the end of the part and the travel dial is within one revolution before zero, move the Feed Control Lever Down to the Neutral or Center Position to stop the movement of the cutting tool. Slowly, at first rotate the Carriage Handwheel Clockwise to the right to return the cutting tool back to the right end of the part. Be careful to move AWAY from the chuck. 50. Ask Instructor for a 3 to 4 micrometer to measure the diameter. Double check with the Caliper to eliminate errors in reading the micrometer. The micrometer is more accurate than the caliper. The diameter to be cut is 3.917 as shown in the drawing at a max depth of cut of.025. Remember to leave.015 to.018 of material for the final cut on the diameter. When making additional cuts on the diameter, always turn the Crossfeed Dial Clockwise only to insure accuracy. This means the cutting tool moves only forward and never backwards until the final cut to eliminate backlash in the gears. Only after the final cut is made should you move the cutting tool toward the operator or away from the part in a counterclockwise direction. Do not remove part from 5/8 Mandrel to begin cutting the 2 nd diameter, the Cylinder O.D. Proceed to the next step. 3
51. CUTTING THE SMALLER DIAMETER OF THE CYLINDER 3.4 A 5/8 Mandrel should already be in place in the 3 jaw chuck in Lathe along with the 1.0 long aluminum spacer, then the 4 O.D. Cylinder part, just machined and a metal washer and nut in this exact order. The nut should already be tightened with an adjustable wrench from the previous step. 52. A 35-degree lathe-cutting tool should already be on the toolpost. 53. Set Chuck speed to 654 RPM s. 54. The Live Center should also be supporting the part. 55. Move 35-degree tool in position 1/16 (.062) past right end of part. 56. The Tailstock should already be in position. 57. Touch the end of the part with the 35-degree cutting tool and zero out both needles on the travel dial. 58. Move the cutting tool toward the operator and to the left 1.937 and ZERO the travel dial a second time to mark the End Position that the Distance the O.S. diameter will be cut. DO NOT CUT DIAMETER PAST THE DISTANCE OF 1.937. 59. Next, move the cutting tool 1/8 from the right end of the part and lightly touch the diameter of the part by turning the Crossfeed Handle clockwise. Loosen the small locking knob on the Crossfeed Handle. Hold the Crossfeed Handle with left hand and reposition graduated scale with right hand until it is zeroed out. Do not permit the Crossfeed Handle to move or rotate during this process so that the cutting tool remains in position on the outer diameter of the part. The tool should NEVER touch at the corner at the end of the part. Move cutting tool about 1/16 (.062) past right end of part. 60. The reversing lever should already by in the upward position in the top hole from the previous step. Set the Lathe Start Switch to on. The chuck should begin rotating. Carefully position the Feed Control Lever to the left and Up to begin cutting the diameter of the part. The cutting tool should begin moving to the left. When the cutting tool reaches the end of the part and the travel dial is within one revolution before zero, move the Feed Control Lever Down to the Neutral or Center Position to stop the movement of the cutting tool. Slowly, at first rotate the Carriage Handwheel Clockwise to the right to return the cutting tool back to the right end of the part. Be careful to move AWAY from the chuck. 61. See Instructor for the 3 to 4 micrometer to measure the diameter. Double check with the Caliper to eliminate errors in reading the micrometer. The micrometer is more accurate than the caliper. The diameter to be cut is 3.400 as shown in the drawing at a max depth of cut of.050. Remember to leave.015 to.018 of material for the final cut on the diameter. When making additional cuts on the diameter, always turn the Crossfeed Dial Clockwise only to insure accuracy. This means the cutting tool moves only forward and never backwards until the final cut to eliminate backlash in the gears. Only after the final cut is made should you move the cutting tool toward the operator or away from the part in a counterclockwise direction. 3 rd & 2 nd to last cuts should be reduced to about.025 with final cut always made at about.015 to.018 depth of cut. 62. CHAMFER PART. Set RPM s to 256 and chamfer with the 45-degree cutting tool. Touch the tool to the right end of the part very lightly with the Machine ON using the Carriage Handwheel manually. Zero the red needle on the Travel Dial and begin cutting the part by moving the cutting tool to the left manually until the red needle reaches.040. Also chamfer GEAR diameter on both sides to.025. 63. Loosen Nut and Remove Part from Mandrel. 4
5 LATHE Small Gear Blank 64. FACING OFF A PART Place the 1.5 O.D. long aluminum stock in the 3-jaw chuck. 65. Place metal stock with an Overhang of.750 +.600 = 1.350 beyond chuck jaws. With machine stopped, set chuck RPM s to 654 and the Surface Speed of the cutting tool to.0036. Position the 80-degree cutting tool on the outer end of the part and touch the part lightly with the point of the insert. 66. Set the red needle on the outer dial of the Travel Dial to 0. 67. Rotate the Crossfeed Dial counterclockwise to the left to clear the part then move the cutting tool to the left.025 with the Carriage Handwheel to make a facing cut. 68. Put the reversing lever in the down position. Pull the feed control lever to the right and down to begin facing off the part. Put light left pressure on the carriage hand wheel with left hand to remove backlash & keep carriage from moving. 69. DRILLING A CENTER HOLE IN THE SMALL GEAR BLANK AT 654 RPM S, Centerdrill a tapered hole 2/3 the length of the taper of the Centerdrill. 70. Next, at 351 RPM s, drill part with a 37/64 drill bit ONLY 1.0 deep. Set Tailstock Spindle to1.0 on the graduated scale & slide tailstock until drill bit touches end of part & lock tailstock lock lever. 71. Use a 5/8 reamer to ream once thru the part at 351 RPM s. The graduated scale should read 2.0 after drilling 1.0 deep. 72. CUTTING THE DIAMETER The diameter to be cut is 1.417. Repeat the procedure used when cutting the diameter on the Large Gear Blank using a 35-degree cutting tool at 654 RPM s. Distance to cut diameter should be set to.750 plus.200 =.950 total distance on the Travel Dial. 73. Place a very tiny groove with the 35-degree cutting tool. Mark the gear at.438 from the right end. 74. SEE THE INSTRUCTOR to machine the radius. 75. CHAMFER THE ONE END OF THE PART. Set RPM s to 256 and chamfer with the 45-degree cutting tool. Touch the tool to the end of the part with Machine on. Zero the red needle on the Travel Dial and move the cutting tool to the left manually until the red needle reaches.025. LATHE 6 Brass Bushings, Top of Cylinder 76. FACING OFF A PART 3 pieces needed 1.0 diameter by 2 1 / 8 long Brass stock. It will be cut in half later to produce 6 pieces. Place 1.0 diameter by 2 1 / 8 long Brass stock in 3-jaw chuck with a 1 overhang. 77. With machine stopped, set chuck RPM s to 654 with a Surface Speed of.0036 (if needed, refer to previous sections for more detailed instructions if needed). 78. Place the reverse lever in the down position for cross feeding. 79. With the 80-degree cutting tool properly in place, touch the edge of the part and set the Travel Dial to 0. 80. Move off the part using the Crossfeed Dial and move the cutting tool.025 to the left by turning the Carriage Handwheel (if needed, refer to the facing off a part section of the top cylinder for more detailed instructions). You should cut no more than.025 on a single cut. 81. After all saw marks have been removed on one end, flip end to end, re-chuck and Face Off the opposite end. Continue to Face Off until all saw marks are removed. Remember that the max depth of cut is only.025 at a time. Machine until part measures a total length of 2 inches with a tolerance of plus or minus.010.
con d, Lathe 6 Brass Bushings, Top of Cylinder 82. DRILLING A CENTER HOLE Centerdrill at 654 RPM s. 83. Next, at 351 RPM s drill thru part with ½ drill bit. Do not chamfer the hole. 84. ROUNDING CORNERS SEE INSTRUCTOR. Place the Corner Rounding Tool (provided by your instructor) on the toolpost and lock in place with the Handle. Position the tool so that the left corner of the tool is about.100 to the left of the end of the part. 85. The chuck RPM s should still be set to 654. Set the Lathe Start Switch to on. 86. Carefully turn the Crossfeed Dial until the left corner of the tool barely touches the part and small shavings begin to appear. 87. To round the edge, gently and steadily turn the Carriage Handwheel counterclockwise, to move the cutting tool to the left, until the flat area of the face is visually about 1/16 in width. 88. After the edge is properly rounded on one end, flip end to end, re-chuck and repeat these steps on the opposite edge. 89. PARTING To avoid breaking this delicate tool, this operation will be done only with the supervision of your instructor. Place the Parting Tool (provided by your instructor) on toolpost and lock in place with the Handle. Chuck the part with a 1 3/8 overhang using your caliper depth gage. Be sure not to chuck on the rounded section of the part. Set the chuck RPM s to 351. 90. Lightly touch the end of the part with the Parting Tool and zero both needles on the Travel Dial. Use the Crossfeed Dial to move the tool away from the part. 91. Using the Carriage Handwheel, move to half of the overall length of the part plus half of the width of the Parting Tool. For example, if the part is exactly 2 long and the parting tool is.200 wide, use the Carriage Handwheel to move the tool 1.1. 92. ALWAYS NOTIFY YOUR INSTURCTOR BEFORE PARTING Carefully but steadily turn the Crossfeed Dial by hand until the part is cut in two. Cutting too quickly could break the tool and damage your part so take your time. NOTE: The Live Center must always be removed when using the parting tool to cut off a part or it will bind and could break the parting tool. 93. In some cases, a small amount of metal, referred to as a nipple, will be left on the face of the part in the 3-jaw chuck. To remove the nipple, put a 35-degree cutting tool into position. Touch gently on the face of the part then start the machine. Use the Crossfeed Dial to move the cutting tool forward manually and remove the nipple. You may use a file to fully clean off the face if needed. 94. Repeat these steps with the second piece of brass stock. You will end up with four brass bushings. 95. CUTTING THE 6 BRASS BUSHING DIAMETERS A SPECIFIED DISTANCE Locate a 35- degree lathe-cutting tool, a Dead Center and a Live Center from the lathe cutting tools cabinet. 96. With the Tailstock Ram positioned at 1 on the graduated scale, lock the Live Center in place in the Tailstock of the lathe. 97. Place a Dead Center in the 3-jaw chuck and position the jaws against the shoulder of the Dead Center. A Dead Center has a straight shank not a tapered one like a Live Center. 98. To get the distance you will be cutting, measure the total length of your part and subtract.300. This distance will be different for every bushing! 99. Place 35-degree lathe cutting tool in position on toolpost and lock in place with the Handle. Move the tool in position 1/8 past right end of part. 100. Slide Tailstock in to position. You may need to refer to previous sections for the exact procedure. 101. 6
con d, Cutting the 6 Brass Bushing Diameters a Specified Distance. 102. Touch the end of the part with the 35-degree cutting tool and zero both needles on the Travel Dial. Move the cutting tool toward the operator and to the left the calculated distance. ZERO the travel dial a second time to mark the End Position that the Distance of the diameter will be cut. 103. Touch the diameter of the part with the tool by turning the Crossfeed Handle clockwise. Zero the gradated scale on the Crossfeed Handle. Move the cutting to the right of the part. 104. Set the reversing lever up and the Lathe Start Switch to on. Position Feed Control Lever to the left and up to begin cutting the diameter of the part. 105. Use a micrometer to measure the outer diameter. You will be cutting the larger diameter first. The diameter to be cut will be determined by measuring the 6 holes in the cylinder with an INSIDE MICROMETER. Add.002 to this diameter for a press fit later at the hydraulic press. The max depth of cut is.025. Remember to leave.015 to.018 of material for the final cut on the diameter. 106. When the micrometer is within.015 to.018 of the desired diameter, you are ready to make your final cut. Take notice of the Crossfeed Dial reading of your final cut. Turn the machine off. You will now be cutting the smaller diameter. 107. Touch the end of the part with the 35-degree cutting tool and zero both needles on the Travel Dial. 108. Move the cutting tool toward the operator and to the left.300 and ZERO the travel dial a second time. 109. Use the Crossfeed Dial reading of your final cut and make the adjustment to reach the desired small diameter of.748. Only after the final cut is made should you move the cutting tool toward the operator or away from the part in a counterclockwise direction. 110. At 179 RPM s, use a large rough file to chamfer the small diameter and a smoother triangular file to lightly remove the burr on the rounded edge of the brass bushing. 111. Repeat these steps with the remaining brass bushings. LATHE Plastic Bushing for Large Cylinder Gear 112. FACING OFF A PART Acquire the 3/4 diameter plastic stock and place in 3-jaw chuck leaving only 1.0 of the part to overhang the jaws. 113. With the machine stopped, set chuck RPM s to 654 with a Surface Speed of.0036. 114. With the 35-degree cutting tool properly in place, touch the edge of the part and set the Travel Dial to 0. Move off the part using the Crossfeed Dial and move the cutting tool.025 to the left by turning the Carriage Handwheel (if needed, refer to the facing off a part section of the top cylinder for more detailed instructions). Begin facing this end. You should cut no more than.025 on a single cut until all saw marks have been removed. 115. Flip end-to-end and face off the opposite edge until proper length has been cut. 116. DRILLING A CENTER HOLE Centerdrill a tapered hole 2/3 the length of the taper of the Centerdrill at 654 RPM s. Next, drill thru using a letter W drill bit at 351 RPM s. CUTTING THE DIAMETER A SPECIFIED DISTANCE Use a Dead Center in the Chuck and a Live Center in the Tailstock to cut the diameter between two centers as was done on cutting the diameter with the previous 6 brass bushings. Lock a 35-degree cutting tool in the tool post and move the tool 1/16 past the right end of the part. Place a smallest live center available in position in the tailstock. The larger ones may not spin properly when cutting plastic. Ask the Instructor to measure the center hole of your cylinder with the INSIDE MICROMETER. He will add.002 to this diameter for a press fit later at the hydraulic press. Cut this diameter a distance of approximately 1.687 as shown in the drawing. The length of your part after facing both ends may vary from what is shown on the drawing. It is more 7
important to maintain a shoulder thickness of.125 then the distance of 1.687. It would be more accurate to subtract.125 from the measured total length of your part after facing to obtain the proper distance the OD needs to be cut rather then using the 1.687 length as shown in the drawing. The shoulder thickness determines the vertical alignment of both gears later. LATHE Turning a Radius on the Brass Bushing for Cylinder Gear Center & Small Gear Brass Bushing 117. See Instructor for the two different diameter brass stock & directions. See drawing for specifications. 8
9 Milling Machine Operations Milling Top Cylinder Holes 118. Place the previously machined top cylinder in the index head with the Bevel Side Up. You may need to use a rag to clean off any metal shavings to ensure that the part will be flat against the surface of the index head. Use the palm of your hand to put pressure on the part while using the chuck key to lock the cylinder in place. Note that, since space is limited, you should not use parallels. 119. EDGE FINDING Locate the edge finding tool. With the high/low lever in the lo position, put the tool into position within the mill. Remember to turn the quill nut two half turns to the left before inserting the tool to ensure that it will lock in fully. With one hand on the quill nut to keep it from rotating, softly push the tool into the quill and turn it slowly until the groove on the tool matches the tooth in the quill. The tool should slide in. Hold the tool in place and turn the spindle lock nut by hand to tighten it then use the spanner wrench to lock it in place. While still gently holding the tool, use the back of the spanner wrench to strike the spindle lock nut three times hard before turning the machine on. This is to make certain that the tool will not fall out while you are machining. 120. Use the x and y-axis levers to move the mill table until the edge finder is visually in the center of the part. 121. Using the x-axis lever, move the mill table so that the edge finder is on the left side of the part. 122. Lower the tool using the quill feed handle until the bottom of the edge finder is about 3/16 below the top surface of the part. Push the quill lock down to lock the quill feed handle then bring the micrometer stop collar up until both are touching. Remember to tighten further by turning it clockwise with your thumb. This will set the depth of the edge finder. 123. Move the high/low lever to the hi position and start the machine. With the machine on, adjust the speed to 1000 RPM s. 124. Move the table using the x-axis lever until the edge finder just barely touches the left side of the part and breaks. Stop the machine and zero the x-axis on the digital readout. 125. Push the quill lock up to unlock the quill feed handle then raise the handle. 126. Use the x-axis lever to move to the right side of the part then lower the tool and use the quill lock to lock the quill feed handle. Start the machine and move the table until the edge finder breaks against the right side of the part. Stop the machine. 127. To determine where the center is, divide the number on the x-axis of the digital readout by 2. Remember this number. Unlock and raise the quill feed handle. Turn the x-axis lever until you reach that number on the digital readout. Re-zero and carefully lock the x-axis, checking to make sure that the table has not moved in the process. You have found one coordinate of the center. 128. Repeat these steps on the y-axis using the y-axis lever to move the table toward and away from the operator. 129. CENTERDRILLING Remove the edge finder and place the Centerdrill into position. Be sure that the tool will not fall out by following the instructions listed in the edge finding section. 130. Since you will be drilling your holes a specified distance from the center, shown in your drawing, unlock the x-axis and use move the table until the digital readout shows.1.050. Lock the x-axis before drilling. 131. With the high/low lever on hi, turn the machine on and adjust the speed to 800 RPM s. 132. Before drilling, be sure that the graduated cylinder on the index head is set to 0. Using the quill feed handle, steadily begin drilling into the part until the Centerdrill is approximately 2/3 of the length
of the taper of the Centerdrill. Before bringing the tool up to drill the other five holes, set your stop using the quill lock and micrometer stop collars so that every hole will be a uniform depth. 133. Bring the Centerdrill up using the quill feed handle and rotate the index head 60 o. You do not need to turn the machine off between drilling each hole as long as you are cautious and comfortable while rotating the index head. Drill until you reach the stop and repeat with the remaining holes. 134. DRILLING THE HOLES ON THE TOP SURFACE Place the drill chuck into position and locate the ½ drill bit. Loosen the chuck by hand and insert the drill bit all the way up into the chuck. Tighten by hand then use the chuck key to lock the bit in place. You may use a rag with both hands on the chuck key to fully tighten the chuck. If the drill bit is not tightly locked in place, it may spin loosely inside of the chuck and get stuck in your part. It may also wobble wildly while drilling if not properly centered inside of the drill chuck. 135. Because space is limited, make sure that you use the elevation handle to lower the mill table as much as possible before setting your micrometer stop collar. Now, use the quill feed handle to lower the tool until the drill bit point is even with the top surface of the part, With right hand still applying a bit of pressure on the quill feed handle, tighten the quill lock with your left hand. Bring the micrometer stop collar up until both are touching. Tighten further by turning it clockwise with your thumb. Unlock the quill feed handle and raise it completely. Zero the graduated scale on the elevation handle by holding the graduated scale firmly with your left hand and loosening the black knob with the other. Rotate the graduated scale until it reaches zero then tighten the black knob. Use the elevation handle to raise the table to the depth of the hole marked on the drawing. One full rotation of the elevation handle is equivalent to.100. In this case, you are drilling to a depth of 1.625. This means that you will need to go 16 full rotations of the elevation handle plus.025. 136. With the high/low lever in Hi, turn the machine on also toward Hi Range and adjust the speed to 500 RPM s or less. Use a paintbrush to apply a small amount of oil to the drill bit then begin drilling. As you are drilling, be sure that you bring the drill bit up a couple of times to clear the metal chips and reapply oil. Otherwise, the chips may compact at the bottom or within the drill bit flutes, which will prevent the drill bit from drilling deeper. 137. Drill completely to the stop then raise the quill feed handle and rotate the index head 60 o. Drill the remaining five holes. 138. Turn the machine off and locate the 23/32 drill bit. Remove the ½ drill bit with the chuck key and replace it with the 23/32 drill bit. Make sure the drill bit is all the way up into the chuck. Firmly lock in place. 139. Set the stop by touching the point of the drill bit on the existing hole of the part then lock the quill feed handle and set the micrometer stop collars. Now, set the depth by using the elevation handle to bring the mill table up to the depth of the hole as specified in the drawing. Always be sure to move the tool up and out of the way before moving the mill table up with the elevation handle! You may refer to the previous section for more detailed instructions. The proper depth of this hole is extremely important. 140. With the high/low lever in lo, turn the machine on and adjust the speed to about 170 RPM s or less. Because all machines are different, the exact speed may need to be adjusted. It is advisable to slow the RPM s if consistent loud chatter is heard. Consult your instructor if you are unsure. 141. Apply a bit of oil and begin drilling using the quill feed handle. Drill until you completely reach the stop then rotate 60 o and repeat as you drill the remaining five holes. 142. Replace the 23/32 drill bit with a ¾ reamer and firmly lock in place. 143. Because a reamer will not drill any deeper than the drillbit previously used, it will only widen and produce a more accurate hole. You do not need to set the stop. Turn the machine on and leave the speed set to 170 RPM s and use the quill feed handle to drive the reamer. You will feel the resistance 10
when the reamer reaches the bottom of the hole. It is very important that you do not force the reamer to go further because it could cause it to wobble and produce an oversized hole. Rotate 60 o and repeat until all six holes have been reamed. 144. Use the hole-chamfering tool to create a small.015 chamfer in each of the four holes. The high/low lever should be placed in lo, the start switch on the machine should be turned to lo, and the speed should be adjusted to 100 RPM s. If the machine is instead turn on to high, the tool will spin backward. 145. CUTTING THE TEETH SEE YOUR INSTRUCTOR for instructions on cutting the 45 & 15 tooth gears. Final Steps To Completing Your Project See Instructor 146. See the Instructor before proceeding with the following steps for the proper procedure and materials needed to finish and assemble all of the parts. 147. Wash your hands before proceeding and remove any oil with cloth and triangular file in all holes of Large Cylinder Gear before Bead Blasting all aluminum parts. Oil will clog blasting media. 148. All brass bushings should be sanded on the lathe, buffed with an abrasive compound called Jewelers Rouge. Than clean and remove tarnish and any accumulations of black residue with the Auto Sol White Polish before final pressing of the bushings in the top part of the cylinder on the hydraulic press. 149. Press small gear brass bushing using special jig. 150. Acquire parts needed from the instructor to mount the cylinder & small gear to the wood base. 151. A nametag will need to be filled out and placed on the wood base before turning in to the instructor. 11