DILLARD'S MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES ADDENDUM FOR LEATHER & SUEDE GOODS This addendum refers to the minimum construction specifications to be used in the production of Dillard's Private Brand Leather and Suede Goods. * All production garments must meet requirements of all applicable Dillard's Product Performance Specifications including dimensional stability and color permanence to crocking prior to production. * All samples sent to BV for testing should be submitted with the piece goods and components that will be used in production. * The merchandise must also comply with all applicable Federal regulations, including those that refer to fiber content, care labeling and flammability. * The Manufacturer, to assure compliance with Dillard's Product Performance Specifications, must test all components of the merchandise. * Flammability - All wearing apparel must meet the requirements of Federal Flammability Standards 16-CFR, part 1610. * Components on all children's apparel must comply with the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Sharp Point regulations as described in 16-CFR, Part 1501. * Care Labels - The care labels must comply with Dillard's Care Label Policy as outlined in the Dillard's Quality Assurance Manufacturer Program Reference Guide. All component parts of a garment, such as findings, linings, and zippers, must be compatible with the care instructions of the garment. * All tickets and labels, including care, fiber content and country of origin labels, must be in compliance with Federal regulations. * All garments must have the Manufacturer s or Dillard s RN# 58909 permanently sewn into the garment. The RN# 58909 must be located on the label containing fiber content and country of origin. All Dillard's private label merchandise should contain the Dillard's assigned vendor RN# 58909. * Design of garment concerning size and placement of embellishment must be proportionally graded and scaled to maintain the integrity of style throughout all sizes and ranges. For example, design lines, yokes, pockets, screens and engineered patterns must be aesthetically balanced from size range to size range. * All styles must be processed through the Dillard's Garment Fit Evaluation Sample Approval Procedures. * All garments produced in compliance with Dillard's contract(s) are to conform to the specifications hereunder. No deviations are permissible, unless authorized in the Garment Fit Evaluation Report (GFE Report) or DPS. There are to be no changes in type and/or grade of workmanship of trimmings and findings without consent of the Dillard's Product Technician and/or Technical/Pattern Manager. Dillard s Inc. Page 1 Last updated 2/4/14
PIECE GOODS 1. All skins are to be randomly examined for shade variations, scars, scratches, and places where a high percentage of fat cells are present. 2. All piece goods, shell, lining and interlining must be fully compatible with the care instructions for each individual item. 3. The Manufacturer is to compare all piece goods from each delivery with the approved swatch for color, weight, construction, content, finish and hand. 4. Shade sorting of skins is essential and may be done by either pre-shading, color or paper separation in lay. 5. Only good quality leather and suede skins should be used in Dillard's product. Skins with strong residual odors from the tanning or dying process are not acceptable and may be cause for return of the merchandise. See the Skin Grade Guidelines on page 5. TRIMMINGS AND FINDINGS 1. Weight and hand of interfacings must be compatible with shell and care instructions for each individual item. 2. Separating zippers must be constructed with a top stop that is large enough to prevent the slider from being removed from the zipper teeth when the zipper is open or closed. 3. Vislon, Nylon coil or metal zippers are to be either YKK or Ideal brands. For metal zippers, brass is preferred. Aluminum tooth zippers are not acceptable in Dillard's Private Brand merchandise. 4. Safety pins and straight pins are not permitted on children's merchandise. On other merchandise, decorations that cannot be laundered in the same manner as stated in care instructions of the garment may be attached with a safety pin through the lining as stated in the Costing Package or GFE Report. 5. FUSING - Hand Irons are acceptable, but there must be a secure bond. Interfacings are to be fused to facing pieces only, unless the Product Technician and/or the Technical/Pattern Manager give special instruction. 6. SHOULDER PADS - Molded fiberfill shoulder pads are preferred, - NO FOAM PADS. All pads must be appropriately affixed to garments in a secure manner and should not show on outside of garment. 7. VELCRO - Hook and loop fastener strips must be compatible with garment, and fasten securely. Children edges are to be rounded. Dillard s Inc. Page 2 Last updated 2/4/14
8. THREAD FOR LEATHER TO LEATHER, OR LEATHER TO LINING SEAMS- Nylon Twisted Multi-filament thread or Spun Polyester thread of the appropriate size is to be used in keeping with the seam and skin composition. Exceptions may be made for decorative stitching. Monofilament thread is not allowed in any sewing operation of any merchandise. Exceptions may be made for certain decorative stitching, when specified on the Spec Package. 9. FOR LINING TO LINING SEAMS - Polyester core, spun polyester, or nylon thread of the appropriate size is to be used in keeping with the seam and fabric composition. SPREADING AND CUTTING 1. AVOID SCARS OR FAT TISSUE - Areas of skin with high percentage of fatty tissue or scars may be used for facings, pocket welts, and undercollars that are fused. These areas of high fat content are NOT ACCEPTABLE in the main body of the garment, and will not be accepted in production or in samples submitted for fit or design approval. 2. ONE WAY MARKERS - All suede or skins with nap must be cut one way unless otherwise specified by Dillard s management. 3. TENSION OF PIECE GOODS - Piece goods must be spread tension free to prevent fabric from being drawn in after spread and cut and to ensure a quality product. 4. Die cutting is preferred where component parts (collars, cuffs, etc.) can be standardized to provide ease in assembly and better quality. Also, any exposed raw edges/seams should be die cut and sealed if necessary. CONSTRUCTION 1. Minimum Seam Allowance 3/8". Seam allowances may be trimmed, clipped, or skived to reduce bulk or to allow the seams to lay flat after the initial construction of the seam. 2. Sewing machines to be correctly adjusted to ensure a quality product. 3. Needle size and point type to be in keeping with skin type and weight. 4. Thread tensions on all machines must be adjusted for individual fabrics. Any one seam distorted or puckered because of incorrect thread tensions will be considered caused for return. 5. All buttons 304 stitch, snaps, and fasteners should be applied securely with appropriate equipment and function properly. Buttons should be sewn with anchor/backing buttons when possible as specified in the Costing Package. Snaps or post closures are to be reinforced. 6. Seam finishes that are designated to be "opened & glued" should be finished with a flexible drying glue or adhesive tape such as rubber cement, Pellon's SL tape or other fusible web tape. Dillard s Inc. Page 3 Last updated 2/4/14
7. Seams that are leather-to-leather or leather to lining should be no more than 7 SPI (stitches per inch) and no less than 5.5 SPI (301 Lockstitch). For appliques only 8-9 SPI is acceptable. 8. The facings on garments with zip-out-linings are to be bound (BSc 301 Lockstitch). The zip-out lining should be finished in the same manner unless otherwise specified in the Costing Package. Binding on the zip-out lining should start and end at the center back neck. 9. All linings are to be fully safety stitch construction (515 or 516 Safety Stitch). 10. Body linings are to be fastened to shell with a minimum of two tacks, one at the top of the armhole at shoulder seam and one at the bottom of the armhole at the underarm at seam. The tacks may be lining loops, or other tapes approved by the Product Technician and/or Technical/Pattern Manager. 11. Neck loops, belt loops and hanger are to be back tacked or bar tacked into position. 12. Sleeve & Sweep: The Shell hem is to be minimum 11/2" wide, turned and glued or tacked at vertical seams. On garments with a free hanging lining, the lining hem should be finished with EFb 301 Lockstitch construction unless otherwise specified in the Costing Package. On garments where the lining is closed completely, the raw edge of the lining should be finished to prevent raveling, and then sewn to the shell with the minimum seam allowance or more (SSa 301 Lockstitch). Linings should be fastened to the shell at each side seam, and center back if needed, with lining loops or tape. FINISHING and PRESSING 1. Garments to be 100% thread clipped inside and outside. 2. Garments are to be fully pressed except when goods do not allow pressing. All garments to be fully pressed: front, back, collars, sleeves, and hems. Pants and skirts should be fully pressed: top, bottom, and legs. 3. Pants designed with a center crease must be pressed with the inseam and outseam lying directly on top of each other. 4. All garments are subject to the same Quality Standards for defects as woven fabrics for each product category. Other defects include mold, mildew, stains, and spew. PACKAGING 1. All merchandise is to be packaged in accordance with Dillard s Packaging Specifications as assigned. Dillard s Inc. Page 4 Last updated 2/4/14
Skin Grade Guidelines Grade A Skin Grade B Skin 60% Skin = Grade A 20% Skin = Grade A 30% Skin = Grade B 50% Skin = Grade B 10% Skin = Grade C 30% Skin = Grade C Grade A: All predominate exposed parts, i.e. Front and back panels (Most obvious) Grade B: Minimal exposed parts, i.e. Bottom back, underarm panels Grade C: Use only on hidden inside parts, i.e. Under-collar or inside placket Dillard s Inc. Page 5 Last updated 2/4/14