Installation detail. More than a wall finish, it s a complete thermally insulated interlocking stone cladding system. To get started you will need... Electric/battery power drill, a 100mm or 125mm angle grinder with a turbo or segmented masonry blade, power/battery saw with a nonferrous metal or multi-blade, adhesive tube applicator, an adjustable 100mm snap blade razor knife, T-Rex polyurethane adhesive or proprietary brand (Sikaflex), 35mm self tapping 12g hex head screws, 19mm x 42mm PVC or timber battens. Before ordering materials and starting your project it is important to consider the window treatments you would like to have. These choices dictate the size of window frame that should be specified for your project. If the RealStone is to be used with return reveal blocks/sills etc or Archimould return sills and mouldings the window frames need only be proud of the frame by 20mm to 30mm. If return reveals are not being used and the cladding is to be butted to the window/door frames then the window frames should be proud of the studs by at least 80mm for all finishes of stone, except RockFace finish in which the frames should be 100mm from studs to allow for the extra thickness. Fig 1 Fig 1 shows the finish with stone butted to window frames. This is the least expensive installation option as return stone blocks are not required and results in reduced labour when compared to other options. Fig 2 shows the finish with return reveal sills and mouldings. Fig 3 shows the finish with return blocks, return sills and return lintels at tops of windows and doors. Fig 2 Note. Returns are blocks / mouldings that have finished sides suitable for doors and windows as shown below. Fig 3 Surround return Return block Sill return Moulded sill return
Page 2 Other considerations before ordering materials for the 300 series stone cladding are. the configuration of the body stone you would like i.e. brick bond, random bond or stacked bond? Random bond is the simplest to install with the least wastage as the use of multiple length blocks allows usage on a best fit basis, or using third/half blocks to infill. Brick bond and stacked bond require more detail in the setting out to ensure reasonably equal steps/ vertical perps when the length of the building is not equally divisible by the length of each block. As such allowances need to be made whilst installing by trimming a number blocks down to create best look. E.g. If 500mm blocks are used for brick bond and the length of the building is 9850mm, this would be divided by 20 (the number of 500mm blocks required to fill the space) This then means each block needs to be cut to 492.5mm long or alternately one could use 500mm blocks for half the distance and cut the other half to 485mm long, which requires half the cutting and the eye would not notice the 15mm difference in length much more than the 7.5mm if all blocks were cut. The same requirement applies to stack bond style. Random Bond 600mm, 500mm and 400mm lengths. Consideration before ordering should also be given the to desired jointing required. Full grout joints (10mm to 12mm wide grout pointing) or pencil joint (2mm wide joints pointed). For pencil joints the blocks ordered shall be standard and for traditional full grout jointing then bevelled edges should be ordered as shown below. Stacked Bond 600mm or 500mm length Pencil Joint Grout Joint Brick Bond 500mm lengths
Page 3 Window Returns and Sills This page should be read before installing the cladding stone to allow for appropriate fitting detail for reveal setbacks, sills and lintels. Fig 1 for Return block detail. Fig 2 for Standard flush blocks. Fig 3+4 for Return surrounds. For sill detail see Fig 5 for Moulded sill returns Fig 6 for Standard sill return Fig 7 for Standard flush block no return. Fig 1 Aerial view window/door detail Adhesive sealant Window/door jamb. Adhesive sealant Return Block detail Sarking EasyFix Rail Timber/metal stud Gyprock Standard Flush Fit Fig 2 Window/door jamb. Sarking EasyFix Rail Timber/metal stud Moulded Return detail Gyprock 12mm gap Adhesive Fig 3 Fig 4 Adhesive sealant Moulded Return detail As finished detail Window/door jamb. Sarking EasyFix Rail Timber/metal stud Gyprock Side views window sill detail Window Frame Sealant Moulded Sill Return 45 x 19mm batten Fig 5 Window Frame Sealant Standard Sill Return If desired sill can be set proud of main face stone as shown using a 25mm batten instead of 19mm. Fig 6 Window Frame Sealant Standard Face Block Flush Fit to window frame. 45 x 19mm batten Fig 7
Page 4 To get started with installation setup... Ensure approved DPC has been fixed between all bottom stud plates and slabs/footings. After fixing approved breather foil sheeting the wall studs as per manufacturers specification the EasyFix starter rail an be set in place at the highest point of the base perimeter. These should be fixed to studs with 35mm x 12guage hex head screws into timber studs or 25mm x 12 gauge self drilling metal hex heads for metal studs. It is important that these be perfectly level around the perimeter of the building as the meeting of all subsequent courses is critical. A dumpy level or a water level can assist greatly in getting this accurately aligned. Approved breather foil sarking 70mm EasyFix starter rail 70mm Footings options DPC Start fitting blocks by first placing a corner block into the channel (Fig 1) then butt each adjacent block into place. A bead of silicone adhesive should be set along each fixing channel as the blocks are laid (Fig 2). Ensure end spline (Fig 3) is placed into the end rebates of each block as they are put into place. Before placing next block place a bead of silicone adhesive adjacent to front of the T spline so as the next block is adhered and waterproofed as installation is progressed (Fig 4). Complete the entire row and adjust the last block to fit the next corner already set in place. Where blocks are cut down to fit a space create a new rebate to match others to allow for end joint spline to be fitted on the vertical joint. Fig 3 End spline Fig 4 Silicone adhesive Aerial view vertical jointing with T spline See next page for starting details on sloping ground or slab. Fig 1 Fig 2
Page 5 Getting started with sloped ground or slabs... Take a level from the highest point of the slope and set the EasyFix starter channel in place (Fig 1). A 19mm thick batten should be then mechanically and/or glue fixed to the substrate/slab below at about 20mm above ground level slope (Fig 2). Start installing the first level with the corner on the starter rail until that level is complete (Fig 3). Take a measurement from the corner block just installed to scribe the line of the slope to the corner block to be used below. Once the corner is cut then it can be affixed and stepped below previous corner using adhesive on top edge of the corner block and adhesive along the batten below. This can then be set in place first into the fixing rail/ groove and compressing the adhesive to ensure a good bond (Fig 4). See below for best scribing method. Fig 1 If weep holes are required on the fixing channel these can be completed with a 8 to10mm drill bit at 300mm centres along the rail closest to the wall fixing side. Fig 2 Fig 3 Fig 6 Fig 4 Fig 5 The simplest and most accurate way to scribe for a slope is to take the next block you wish to use and sit it against the previously installed block face side in (Fig 5). Then mark the block 2mm below the block above on each side (Fig 6) and strike a line through. The block can then be cut to size required, check fitted and adjusted if required before adhering into place as others. This scribing system is also useful for angled gables, roofs, veranda's etc at the bottom of the block coursing or at the top. Fig 7
Page 6 Completing Block Installation... Each row can be completed starting with positioning each corner block first then filling in the area between. The final block can be cut to suit as required. If using brick bond style coursing then care should be made to measure the opening size between corners to calculate equal lengths of each block to be cut as per detail on Page 2. Fig 1 Fig 2 Adhesive applied to front of batten before positioning of the blocks above Fig 2. Adhesive should also be place vertically on the sides of all block as they are positioned. As each window or door opening is reached the setting out will be dictated by the openings which will probably require 40 x 19mm battens to be screw fixed to the frame to top and bottom unless the fixing rail happens to be in the right line. See also the head/lintel and soffit detail in Figs 3, 4 and 5. Trim the top blocks to suit and glue to batten. Then grout or use a quad mould for finishing under the soffit lining. These should be placed in the channel and hinged up into place. Fig 3 Fig 4 Fig 5 Return Lintel Standard Block with extra size window frame Return Mould
Page 7 Completing Block Installation... Continue until all blocks are set in place as which then leaves the job complete if standard blocks used flush fit or leaves the window/door detail where where required to be done. After fitting all window detail all abutments to the window and door frames should be sealed with T- Rex adhesive sealant or similar proprietary brand to ensure adequate water proofing. To creat a nice clean finish masking the window frame prior to application of adhesive is recommended. For moulded return sills and return reveals as above install the sill first leaving an extra 130>150mm each side to allow for the side reveals being fitted above. Cut bottom of each surround to allow for angle slope on the sill, check measure and mitre the tops to suit opening. Once set the top mould can be mitred each side for a snug fit and glue set in place. All abutments should be sealed after to ensure for adequate waterproofing. For installation of standard sills and lintels as above illustrations simply cut them to suit the opening and adhere to the battens. When cutting allow approximately 3mm for water sealing with adhesive and/or grout. Use of masking tape when sealing or grouting these is recommended for a neat clean finish. First floor verandas are best done to detail shown before installing the cladding stone. The cladding can then be cut to the line of the back plate rather than the extra cost of cutting out each block around the rafters as would be required if they are not packed out as shown. 45mm thick blocks or a length fixed horizontal to studs. Wall studs 25 35mm thick back plate for rafters fixed to 45mm thick blocks on the studs. Post Veranda rafters
Page 8 Fitting of Windows with External Face Moulding Windows and doors that have built in face mouldings should be fitted after RealStone has been fixed to the walls. These are usually fixed via the side frame into the wall studs. For waterproofing T-Rex adhesive sealant should be applied in a continuous 8mm bead all the way around the internal moulding prior to pushing into place. This will hold the window firmly against the wall face whilst mechanically fixing the window. It also stops the adhesive oozing onto the finished surfaces maintaining a very neat and tidy finish that is totally waterproof. Mask the edges of the windows at about 5mm to allow for grout to be applied all the way around the window frame. Peel the masking tape off whilst grout is wet or after it has cured. T-Rex Adhesive Outer moulding Compress the frame against the wall face to ensure good contact of the adhesive. Inner frame External of a window with frame attached Side view Internal view of window frame window Window opening External Fittings Lightweight components such a drainage downpipe brackets and lights can be screwed directly into the wall finish predrilled with plastic rawlplugs installed prior. Heavier fittings should be screwed with a self drilling metal fixing screws to where a wall stud or horizontal fixing rail is located.
Page 9 Grouting Technique Before applying grout to joints cut a hole in the top of 2 litre plastic pail or ice cream container as shown This allows you to easily get excess grout off you finger as you proceed and to re-use this excess again. Cover with damp rag when not using to stop the grout from drying out. Open the pail of grout and stir grout by hand to reduce viscosity. If necessary use a little water to thin down however in most situations stirring alone will reduce the thickness. Half fill a grout bag with Unreal Stone flexible mortar. Squeeze out firmly following the joint lines doing about 2 to 3 blocks at a time. ( The mortar skins reasonably quickly so applying more than 3 blocks at once may not result in obtaining a good finish in smoothing off) As a guide you will need 1 litre of grout per 3 square metres of cladding. Run your finger along grout line as shown and use the hole in the grout container to clean your finger of excess mortar as you proceed. Use a wet rag to wipe your fingers as you work. You will find it best to work on areas away from full sunlight on hot days as the grout does skin fairly quickly. Use your thumb and follow grout line in opposite direction to above to give you a nice clean finish. Again use a wet rag to clean your thumb as you go. Any little nibs and untidy edges left can be carefully wiped off with the flat of your hand. If done correctly it should not require any other attention. Continue all works until completed. If grouting blocks next to a wall with a different finish or windows/doors mask the wall or moulding about 3 to 5mm out from the cladding stone and run flexible mortar as above to a smooth finish then remove masking tape. Allow mortar 48 hours to dry before brushing down any blocks. Do not use the mortar below 10 degrees centigrade or if rain is imminent. Note : Use a cartridge gun and squeeze a small bead of T-Rex Polymer glue between every joint just prior to grouting. This ensures a very waterproof seal between the block joints and aluminium fixing rails and aids in the application of the grout. It is best to apply the grout whilst the polymer adhesive is still wet and tacky rather than cured and dry.
Page 10 Direct Fixing RealStone can be direct fixed with adhesive to existing fibreboard, brick and blocks. Fibreboard (old or new) should be checked to ensure it can take the weight being added to existing fixings before proceeding any installation of RealStone. As most foundation bases are not exactly level it is best to start at the second course levelled from about 290mm 300 mm at the lowest point. In the drawing below this would be at (a). Fix a 2 x 1 timber set to level around the perimeter of the building. Splines in vertical joints Spline all along horizontal joints Start with the corner block first then subsequent blocks using the spline to align each block as you proceed. Press each block against wall and wiggle it a little to get good adhesive contact. On completion of each row use the spline along each row horizontally which will then align the next row. Continue until completed. The bottom row can then be completed scribing and cutting each block to fit as shown on Page 5. On completion joints can be grouted with flexible grout as previous instructions. T-Rex adhesive should be applied to the back of the blocks as shown below in blobs of about 20 cent coin size as shown below. (a) General Health and Safety Always wear an approved particulate dust mask and safety glasses when cutting/sanding RealStone by hand or machine. Suitable dust extraction equipment is recommended. A wet saw can be used and is recommended for continual cutting and machining of RealStone. Refer to the Materials Safety Data Sheet for complete health information relating to InsulBlock Disclaimer... All information provided in this installation guide is given in good faith and with best work practises in mind. Reasonable care has been taken in the preparation of this information, but the manufacturer makes no warranty of merchantability or any other warranty, expressed or implied, with respect to this information. The manufacturer makes no representations and assumes no liability for any direct, incidental or consequential damages resulting from its use. Ecobuild Solutions Ltd 170 South Creek Rd CROMER NSW 2099 Phone 1300 654 034