THE FIBRE THAT CHANGED THE WORLD The Cotton Industry in International Perspective, 1600-1990s EDITED BY AND PASOLD RESEARCH FUND OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
CONTENTS List of Illustrations List of Figures List of Tables List of Contributors Maps xvii xix xxi xxv xxviii Part I The Industry in Global Context 1 The Role of Cotton as a World Power, 1780 1990 3 AND 2 The Role of Merchants as Prime Movers in the Expansion of the Cotton Industry, 1760 1990 15 2.1 The challenge posed by a global approach to the history of the cotton industry 15 2.2 The main trends in development, 1790-1990 16 2.3 The challenge posed by a marketing approach to the history of the cotton industry 26 2.4 The role of Manchester merchants 29 2.5 The achievement of the trading companies of Japan 39 2.6 The transformation of mercantile activity in Manchester under the pressure of foreign competition, 1872-1960 41 2.7 The achievement of the tiger economies of East Asia in creating a world market in clothing, 1950-1990 48 2.8 The development of marketing techniques in America 49 2.9 Conclusion 54 3 The Lancashire Cotton Industry, the Royal Navy, and the British Empire, c.i 700-1960 57 JOHN SINGLETON 3.1 Introduction 57
3.2 Imperial expansion and industrial revolution 59 3.3 The Victorian high tide 63 3.4 Economic and naval challenge 69 3.5 The final phase 79 3.6 Conclusion 82 4 The International Diffusion of Cotton Manufacturing Technology, 1750-1990S 85 4.1 Introduction 85 4.2 The recent context 85 4.3 Diffusion by means of printed information 88 4.4 Diffusion by skilled artisans 94 4.5 Diffusion by means of industrial exhibitions 99 4.6 State-sponsored technology acquisition 108 4.7 Multinational corporations as agents of cotton technology transfer 113 4.8 Technological systems builders : merchants, machine makers, and consultants as agents of cotton technology transfer 118 4.9 The effects of the diffusion of cotton manufacturing technology in the global cotton industry 125 4.10 Conclusion 125 5 Technological Evolution in Cotton Spinning, 1878-1933 129 GARY SAXONHOUSE AND GAVIN WRIGHT 5.1 Introduction 129 5.2 The transoceanic migrations of continuous and intermittent spinning 133 5.3 The textile machinery industry 137 5.4 Hypotheses and evidence 139 5.5 New evidence: machine size and machine speed 142 5.6 Dividing and conquering the markets: trends in yarn count 147 5.7 Conclusion 151 6 International Changes in Cotton-Manufacturing Productivity, 1830-1950s 153 6.1 Introduction 153 6.2 Technology transfer, invention, and productivity 154 6.3 International changes in cotton manufacturing productivity 159 6.4 Conclusion 189 7 Organization and Management in the Global Cotton Industry, 1800s 1990s 191 7.1 Introduction 191 7.2 The historiography of the organization of the Lancashire cotton industry 191 7.3 Firms, markets, and culture in the global cotton industry, 1890-1990s 198 1 7.4 Management in cotton manufacturing, 1830s 1990s 227 7.5 Conclusion 245 Part II The Industry in Europe and the USA 8 Technology Transfer to the Catalan Cotton Industry: From Calico Printing to the Self-Acting Mule 249 J. K. J. THOMSON 8.1 Introduction 249 8.2 Technological change related to calico printing 253 8.2.1 Why calico printing? 253 8.2.2 The introduction of mordant and madder printing techniques to Spain 254 8.2.3 Indigo printing 256 8.2.4 Copper-plate printing 258 8.2.5 Cylinder printing and the 'perrotine' 259 8.3 Spinning 262 8.4 New sources of energy: water power and steam power 270 8.5 Conclusion 275 9 The Birth of the Dutch Cotton Industry, 1830-1840 283 ALFONS VAN DER KRAAN, 9.1 Introduction 283 9.2 An assisted birth 287 9.3 Conclusion 304 xi
Xll xiii 10 11 12 It Could Have Been Worse: The West German Cotton Industry, 1945-1990 STEPHAN H. LINDNER 10.1 Introduction 10.2 The textile industry and its cotton branches: an overview 10.3 Stagnation in a booming economy 10.4 Decline in a still prosperous economy 10.5 Conclusion The Russian Technical Society and British Textile Machinery Imports STUART THOMPSTONE 11.1 11.2 " 3 11.4 Technology transfer in theory and practice Steam engine and boiler technology and transmission systems British-influenced factory design Finishing equipment Raw materials supplies Spinning technology Cotton weaving technology Factory management Social factors " 5 11.6 11.7 11.8 11.9 11.10 Conclusion Path Dependence and the Origins of Cotton Textile Manufacturing in New England JOSHUA L. ROSENBLOOM 12.1 12.2 Introduction The early development of the American textile industry 12.3 The origins of the Massachusetts system 12.4 Tariff protection and path dependence 12.5 Conclusion 307 307 309 309 324 334 337 337 349 352 353 354 355 356 358 362 363 365 365 370 375 380 390 Part III The Industry in Asia 13 The Role of Cotton Textiles in the Economic Development of India, 1600 1990 395 13.1 The transfer of textile designs from Europe by the East India Company 396 13.2 The revolution in the Anglo-Indian trade in textiles, 1779-1830 398 13.3 The establishment of the first spinning mill in Bombay 400 13.4 The three mill-building booms of 1872-1875, 1881-1884, and 1887-1893 405 13.5 The internal diffusion of the cotton industry from Bombay, 1861-1930 409 13.6 The forging of a machinery supply chain, 1870 1920 410 13.7 The penetration of Lancashire piece-goods into the Indian market 413 13.8 The survival and renaissance of the native hand-loom weavers 415 13.9 The achievements of Bombay in the supply of the markets of Asia, 1873-1905 13.10 The rebirth of India as a global exporter, 193 7-1945 417 13.11 The comparative performance of Pakistan and Bangladesh as exporters, 1947 1990 419 13.11.1 Pakistan 420 13.11.2 Bangladesh 422 13.12 India's withdrawal from, and its re-entry into, world trade in textiles, 1966-1996 423 1 3 J 3 The triumph of the small-scale power-loom manufacturers, 1956-1996 425 13.14 Embedded constraints upon economic development 427 14 Rural Manufacture in China's Cotton Industry, 1890 1990 431 LINDA GROVE 14.1 Introduction 431 14.2 The development of China's indigenous cotton industry 433 14.3 The nineteenth-century reorganization of the cotton industry 437
XIV xv 14.4 The move toward large production units, 1937-1978 446 14.5 Economic reform policies and China's cotton industry 450 14.6 Conclusion 459 15 Organizational Changes in the Japanese Cotton Industry during the Inter-War Period: From Inter-Firm-Based Organization to Cross-Sector-Based Organization 461 TAKESHI ABE 15.1 Introduction 461 15.2 The background to the structural change 464 15.2.1 The inter-firm-based organization before the First World War 464 15.2.2 The major changes in industrial structure after the First World War 467 15.3 The establishment of cross-sector-based organization 474 15.3.1 Changes in the nature of traditional strategies 474 15.3.2 The development of downstream industry 477 15.4 The development of new strategies 483 15.4.1 The diffusion of automatic power-looms and its limit 484 15.4.2 The adoption of the high draft system and the production of fine yarn 490 15.4.3 The adoption of air-conditioning systems and improvements in the quality of yarn 492 15.5 Conclusion 16 The Development of Factory Management in Japan During the Early Stages of Industrialization: The Kanegafuchi Cotton-Spinning Company before the First World War 495 TETSUYA KUWAHARA 16.1 Introduction 495 16.2 Acquisition of rivals and problems of variable product quality 500 16.2.1 Acquisition of rivals 500 16.2.2 Variable product quality 501 16.3 The factory as a technical system 504 16.3.1 The factory 5 4 16.3.2 The role of workers in the technical system 509 16.4 Standardization 510 16.4.1 Structural reform for direct control 51 o 16.4.2 Standardization 511 16.4.3 Skill training 513 16.5 Securing the cooperation of the workers 514 16.6 Conclusion 516 17 International Circumstances Surrounding the Post-War Japanese Cotton Textile Industry 521 KAORU SUGIHARA 17.1 Introduction 521 17.2 Patterns of inter-asian competition 525 17.3 The disintegration of the Commonwealth market 538 17.3.1 The first period 539 17.3.2 The second period 543 17.3.3 The third period 547 17.4 The impact of Asia's industrialization 551 Part IV Concluding Perspectives 18 The Role of the Cotton Industry in Economic Development 557 18.1 The cotton industry and the economic development of the United Kingdom 558 18.2 The role of the subsidiary industries in creating a regional economy 560 18.3 The cotton industry and the economic development ofeurope 566 18.4 The cotton industry and the economic development of America 571 18.5 The creative influence of the export trade in cotton yarn 574 18.6 The cotton industry and the economic development ofjapan 577 18.7 The cotton industry and the economic development of China 581 Select Bibliography Index 585 593