CARE & MAINTENANCE GUIDE

BATHROOM FURNITURE FITTING INSTRUCTIONS CARE & MAINTENANCE GUIDE

IMPORTANT NOTICE IMPORTANT NOTICES BEFORE BEGINNING ANY WORK! - CHECK ALL PRODUCTS CAREFULLY BEFORE BEGINNING WORK. - SHOULD YOU FIND ANY DAMAGED/FAULTY ITEMS PLEASE CONTACT YOUR SUPPLIER IMMEDIATELY. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FIT SUCH PRODUCTS - VANITY HALL FURNITURE SHOULD BE FITTED BY AN EXPERIENCED AND COMPETENT INSTALLER. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN OUR GUARANTEE BEING INVALID. - WE RESERVE THE RIGHT TO ALTER MATERIALS OR SPECIFICATION AT ANY TIME UNDER OUR DEVELOPMENT/IMPROVEMENT POLICY. - ALL OF OUR UNITS ARE SUPPLIED WITH THE RELEVANT FITTING PACK AND CAN BE IDENTIFIED BY A LABEL WHICH IS ON THE PACKAGING. - IT IS ADVISABLE TO COMMENCE FITTING FROM A CORNER WHERE POSSIBLE, ENSURING YOU GET CORRECT SPACING IF USING A CORNER FILLER. - WE ADVISE THAT ALL DOORS/FASCIA S ARE REMOVED PRIOR TO FITTING, TO AVOID ANY UNNECESSARY DAMAGE FROM OCCURRING. - SOME VANITY HALL UNITS AND WORKTOPS ARE HEAVY. PLEASE TAKE CARE WHEN LIFTING BY FOLLOWING HEALTH & SAFETY GUIDELINES. - ENSURE ALL CABINETS & DRAWER RUNNERS ARE CLEAN AND FREE FROM DUST/ GENERAL BUILDING WASTE BEFORE INSTALLING DRAWER BOXES & FASCIA S. Please note: The following instructions are to fit Vanity Hall furniture to a solid wall. If fitting to a stud wall, please use the appropriate fixings such as the ones shown here. Available at DIY stores. 2

Contents FURNITURE INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS Base Units Fitting Base & Tall Base Units Fitting Wall Hung Base Units Fitting Contemporary Unit End Panels Fitting Slab Basins To Modular Units (ie. MSB/MSBD) Fitting Vanity Units Fitting In-frame Units Adjusting A Soft Close Drawer Box Adjusting Soft Close Door Hinges Adjusting Push Open Drawers Adjusting Push Hinges Fitting A Plinth Fitting A Plinth Return WC & Bidet Unit Fascia Cut Outs Dual Flush Push Button Concealed Cisterns Semi Recessed Washbasin Unit Fascia Cut Outs Washbasin Fascia & Worktop Cut Outs Wall Cabinets Fitting Wall, Mirror & Open Shelf Cabinets Adjusting A Soft Close Door Hinge Mirror Cabinet Door Adjustments Fitting A Mirrored Door To A Unit Removing A Hinge From A Mirror Door Flyover Shelving, Cornice & Lighting Fitting Flyover Shelving Fitting Cornice Fitting Lighting Fitting Mirror Units (ie. FSM & PEM Units) Fitting A Framed Mirror Bath Panels & Bath End Panels Adjusting Bath Panel Height Cutting Panels To Avoid Obstructions Supporting The Panels In The Correct Position Installing Front Panel Only Installing Front & End Panel All Installations Securing Panels In Place Solid Surface & Laminate Worktops Drilling For Taps In Worktops Recommended Tools Fitting A Worktop Installing Semi Counter & Inset Basins Fitting Ceramic Basins CARE & MAINTENANCE GUIDE Pg. 20, 21, 22 TERMS & CONDITIONS Pg. 23 3 4 5 6 6 6 6 7 7 7 7 8 8 8 9 9 9 10 10 11 11 11 12 12 12 13 13 14 14 14 15 15 15 15 16 17 18 19 19

Base Units Fitting Base Units & Tall Base Units SHOULD YOU WISH TO LOWER THE PLINTH HEIGHT FROM 182mm IF THE FLOOR IS UNEVEN, CUT THE LEGS TO THE REQUIRED HEIGHT BY CUTTING UNWANTED MATERIAL FROM THE TOP BEFORE FITTING TO THE UNIT. To attach the plastic legs, push them into the sockets fitted onto the base of the unit. Tap the base of the leg lightly with a hammer to ensure good connection to the socket. (Figure 1) Adjust the leg to the height of 182mm (Figure 2). After ensuring that the necessary pipework is completed, position the unit on its legs against the wall. Adjust the legs to make sure the unit sits level in all directions, and use a spirit level on all sides to check (Figure 3). Try and keep the plinth height as near to 182mm as possible. Once the unit is positioned level, remove the back(if applicable) before fixing to the wall via the back rail or stretcher plates (Figure 4). If attaching to a plasterboard wall, ensure correct fixings are used (See note on contents page). Units can be joined together by drilling and screwing through side panels once they are all in correct place. To make fixings less obvious, you can drill behind hinges or loose shelving. Once all the units are securely fitted, slide the back panels removed earlier on back into position. Check that the correct finish on the panel is facing forwards before fitting worktops. (Figure 5). fig. 6 fig. 5 NB. If the furniture needs to be raised higher than the standard height that the legs allow. We recommend that strips of 2 x 2 timber be screwed to the floor where the legs of the units are to sit to enable the required extra height to be achieved. (Fig 6). 4

Base Units Fitting Wall Hung Base Units A line should be drawn along the length of the wall, level with where the units are to be fitted at the desired height about the floor level. If the space between the floor and the unit is required at 182mm, then the line x should be drawn to suit the unit you are fitting. (Figure 1) If a unit has been specified as wall hung it should arrive with brackets already fitted. If not, they will need to be fixed the correct way up by knocking four prongs into the holes at the rear of the carcass. Finish by knocking the securing pin into place (Figure 1) A line should be drawn on the wall to position the cabinet hanger plates. This line is set 23mm from the top of the unit for cabinets, where the back rail is level with the top of the cabinet and 180mm from the top of the unit where the back rail has been lowered to allow for certain pottery. The position of this plate on this line is determined by measuring in 30mm & 73mm from the external side of each unit. (Figure 2) A B Wall plates should be fixed with appropriate plugs and screws for your wall type (not supplied). The units should then hook on to the fixed plates. Adjustments A - Adjust to pull the cabinet into the wall. (Figure 3) B - Adjust to move the cabinets up or down. (Figure 3) Adjust the cabinets to the correct height ensuring they are level and pull the cabinets tight against the wall using the adjustment screws on the brackets. It s important to ensure you have sufficient support for the weight of any basin, unit and contents when fitting these wall hung units. Units can be joined together by drilling and screwing through side panels once they are all in correct place. To make fixings less obvious, you can drill behind hinges or loose shelving. (Figure 4) Securing screws should then be fitted through the back of the unit, through the back rail of the cabinet and into the wall. This will help stabilise the unit (Figure 5). Once all the units are securely fitted, slide the back panels removed earlier on back into position. Check that the correct finish on the panel is facing forwards before fitting worktops. (Figure 4). fig. 5 5

Base Units Fitting Contemporary Unit End Panels Our contemporary unit end panels can be fitted by drilling pilot holes and fixing screws through the side panel of the cabinet into to the contemporary unit end. (Figure 1) Fitting Slab Basins To Modular Units MSBD (DURAVIT DARLING) MSB (DURAVIT VERO) For our modular units which come complete with basins, ie. MSB (Duravit Vero Basin) & MSBD (Duravit Darling Basin) units you should refer to Duravit s fitting instructions. Fitting Vanity & In-Frame Units As with all furniture the cabinet needs to be installed level in all directions. As these particular units have no adjustable legs but go directly to the floor, this can be achieved in one of two ways:- i) Packing the unit side panels up at the applicable points using shims.(figure 3) ii) Scribing the cabinet to the contours of the floor. (Figure 4) Once the unit has been levelled using one of the above methods, screw the cabinet to the wall through the back rail using the correct fixings. 6

Base Units Adjusting A Soft Close Drawer Box Drawer boxes are factory installed and should not need to be adjusted. However if adjustment is required, extend the drawer box and remove the Vanity Hall cover caps (Figure 1) to reveal the mechanisms shown (Figure 2) A B A - Adjusts drawer height B - Tilt Adjustment C - Left/Right adjustment. D - Tension/Removal. To remove a drawer box, fully extend the drawer, lift the front of the drawer box and tilt back down to release from the runners. C D To replace a drawer box, fully extend the drawer runners then place the box onto them and close the drawer. The box should clip itself into place upon closing. H F Adjusting Soft Close & Push Open Door Hinges You may need to adjust the doors on your units, if so, please follow these directions: (Refer to Figure 3) E ATTACH G REMOVE E - Lift this clip to release door from carcass. F - Adjusts door position horizontally. G - Adjusts door position vertically (On hinge plate). H - Adjusts door in/out from carcass. For instructions on how to attach and remove the push hinge from the carcass refer to Figure 4 - + Adjusting Push Open Drawers The mechanisms fitted to the underside of the base of the drawer box has the facility to adjust the distance by which the drawer front sits away from the front of the cabinet. Please note: to ensure that this distance is recommended to be 3mm to ensure correct opening of the drawer! To adjust this distance, turn the orange thumb-wheel at the back of the mechanism. This rotation is shown as + or - arrows on the part itself.(figure 5) Adjusting Push Open Door Hinges fig. 5 You can adjust push open door hinges in the same way as shown for the soft close hinges in Figures 3 & 4. 7

Base Units Fitting A Plinth Please ensure you identify the correct finish side of the plinth before fitting! Cut the plinth to the required length. On the reverse of the plinth mark the position of the cabinet legs in order to fix the plinth clips. Fix with screws. Push the completed plinth onto the legs (Figure 1). Another option to wall hanging/fitting plinth. You can remove the front legs of the unit to allow the plinth to be fitted to the back legs instead (Figure 2) Fitting A Plinth Return Once the plinth is fitted along the front of the cabinets, simply measure the distance from the back of the plinth to the wall and cut the plinth return to length, scribing around skirting etc. where applicable. Once this is done, use the same process of marking and fitting the plinth clips and the front plinth and clips to the legs. WC & Bidet Unit Fascia Cut Outs flush pipe waste pipe plinth Wall hung WC and wall hung Bidet units are not designed to carry the load of the WC and Bidet pottery, so do not drill directly onto the fascias. A steel frame should be used to support the wall hung pottery, and has two large bolts that should be screwed to be within the fascia panel - see manufacturers fitting instructions. The plinth should be cut to accommodate the soil pipe if necessary (Figure 3). To accomodate the waste pipe, one of the rear legs may need to be removed. WC pottery should be used as a template for cutting the bottom fascia of the WC unit to accommodate for the soil and flush pipe (Figure 3). Re-seal all cut edges using silicone. A WC Block is used to act as a filler between the front of the plinth and the back of the WC Pan. Screw through the back of the plinth into the WC block to ensure a good fit (Figure 4). The WC Panels are held in place by the wall hung or back to wall pan. You can add extra fixings behind the push button plate(if applicable). WC block 8

Base Units Dual Flush Push Button Concealed Cisterns The concealed cistern used in Vanity Hall furniture is a Thomas Dudley Dual Flush Vantage Cistern, which is operated by a small Pneumatic push button that provides smooth and reliable flushing. The diameter for the push button cutout is 44mm. The vantage complies with current water regulations, bearing water conservation in mind and is installer and user friendly. (Figure 1) Push Button Cistern Features Clip-Off Servicing Panel. Supplied with inlet and flushing valves factory fitted. Internal isolating valve. Fascia & Worktop Cut Outs For Washbasin A TEMPLATE MUST ALWAYS BE USED WHEN CUTTING OUT FOR A BASIN! Templates should be provided as standard by the pottery manufacturer. To fit an inset vanity basin only the worktop needs to be cut (Figure 2). When fitting a semi-recessed basin, both the worktop and front fascia panel need to be cut (Figure 3). Lay the template in the desired position on the unit/worktop and then draw around it. You should allow for a worktop overhang of 10mm when fitting a semi counter top basin. Use a jigsaw or padsaw and down cutting blade to make the cutout. Sealant should be applied to any raw cut edges (Figure 4). If using a Vanity Hall supplied basin use a silicon sealant. Follow manufacturers instructions for any other pottery. Once the basin is in position, A BEAD OF SILICON SEALANT MUST BE APPLIED around the joint between the furniture and pottery. This will prevent water ingress. 9

Wall Cabinets Fitting Wall Cabinets, Mirror Units & Open Shelf Cabinets As with base cabinets, you should mark a level line along the wall which indicates the top of the units, From this, mark another line parallel to this 56mm from the top line, which will indicate the drilling centre line for the hanging plates.(figure 1) To determine the position of the outside edges of each bracket, simply mark in 30mm and 73mm from both the left and right hand outside edges of each cabinet, this will give you two drilling positions for each bracket.(figure 1) in/out adjustment Once all brackets have been securely fitted to the wall, hang each cabinet individually onto their prospective brackets and adjust until level.(figure 2). Repeat for all wall cabinets. To secure the cabinets together, simply screw them together, fixings can be hidden behind hinge plates or removable shelves. Ensure that the cabinets are level by using a spirit level. (Figure 3) Once all the cabinets are screwed together, tighten all cabinets to the wall using applicable adjusting screws on the cabinet hangers.(figure 2) up/down adjustment H F Adjusting Soft Close & Push Open Door Hinges You may need to adjust the doors on your units, if so, please follow these directions: (Refer to Figure 4) E ATTACH G REMOVE E - Lift this clip to release door from carcass. F - Adjusts door position horizontally. G - Adjusts door position vertically (On hinge plate). H - Adjusts door in/out from carcass. For instructions on how to attach and remove the push hinge from the carcass refer to Figure 5 fig. 5 10

Wall Cabinets D A Mirror Cabinet Door Adjustment Follow these instructions to adjust the mirror doors when required: (Refer To Figure 1) B C A - Lift the clip to release the door from the carcass. B - Use to adjust the doors horizontal positioning. C - Use to adjust the doors vertical positioning (On back plate). D - Use to adjust the in/out position of the door. Fitting A Mirror Door Onto A Unit Remove the hinges from the units by lifting the tab underneath the hinge (shown by A on figure 1). Place the hinges onto the mirror door into their housing (Figure 2). Twist them forwards until they lock into place. Put the door back up to the unit, then clip the hinges back into place (Figure 3). Once the door is in the correct position, re-tighten the hinge plates onto the cabinet and finish any final adjustments (Figure 1) Removing A Hinge From A Mirror Door (Refer to figures 5 & 6 for the following instructions) - Insert a flat headed screwdriver underneath the release catch inside the hinge. - Rotate the screwdriver blade 90 - Close the hinge, which then releases it from the bracket. IMPORTANT! - Doors must be adjusted correctly to prevent the bond between the hinge plate and mirror from failing due to mis-alignment over time. As a result, the guarantee will become invalid. fig. 5 fig. 6 11

Flyover Shelving, Lighting & Cornice option A Fitting Flyover Shelving Flyover shelving should be fitted by either; Drilling through the top of the flyover down into the top of the unit (Figure 1, Option A). OR option B Drilling through the top panel of the unit carcass and into the flyover shelving (Figure 1, Option B). Fitting Cornice Cornice should be fitted to the top of the wall units, lined up with the front of the cabinet (Figure 2). We recommend when fitting cornice that all joints are cut and cornice trimmed to length first. Secondly, glue all joints together, we recommend an adhesive such as mitre fix (not supplied by Vanity Hall). Once all cornice is joined together & cut to length, it can then be fitted to the top of the cabinets as a complete piece by simply drilling through the rear of the cornice and screwing down onto the unit.(figure 3) front of cabinet Fitting LED Spotlights IMPORTANT: All electrical work must be carried out by a qualified electrician. Drill a hole where the light is to be positioned using a 57mm hole saw, and push the light into place. (Figure 4) LED Spotlights are to be used in conjunction with a transformer - Up to 3 Spotlights can run off one transformer. 12

Mirror Units & Framed Mirrors Fitting Mirror Units backboard All units which include a mirror (ie. FSM & PEM) have removable mirrors, using mirror screws and removable caps. To install either of these units simply remove the mirror and fix through the back panel of the cabinet securely ensuring that it is level both vertically and horizontally. mirror screws & dome caps mirror Once this has been done fit the mirror to the back board ensuring the rubber gromets are pressed through the fixing holes from the rear. Place the screws through the gromets and tighten until the mirror is just pinched (be aware of over-tightening of the screw will cause the mirror to crack). Once all four screws have been secured, screw the cover caps to the head of the hole screws dimension A dimension B Fitting A Framed Mirror On the reverse of the framed mirror there are two fixing plates attached. To ascertain the fixing positions for the mirror frame measure the distance from the top of the frame to the top of the slot in the fixing bracket (dimension A) and also the distance between the centre of the brackets (dimension B). On the wall you should mark the required position for the top and centre of the mirror. Next, divide the centre distance by 2 and mark this distance either side of the centre line. From the mark showing the top of the frame mark down the distance previously measured plus 2mm, and drill and fit the screws using the appropriate fixings. top of mirror dimension A + 2mm dimension B/2 dimension B/2 dimension B centre line of mirror 13

Bath Panels Fitting Bath & Bath End Panels Adjusting the panel height Panels are supplied with an adjustable plinth that will give a height range from 400mm to 575mm. The plinth is fixed to the back of the panel using at least 3 x 1 inch wood screws, making sure these are fixed through the bottom rail (thickest part) of the panel. (Figure 1) To position the plinth, measure the height of the bath at both ends and fix the plinth to the panel accordingly. Ensure the bath is level before measuring. If the bath is level but the heights at each end are different then the floor may not be level. You shoud adjust the position of the plinth to allow for any slope in the floor. Cutting the panel to avoid obstructions Note: If possible, cutting the panel should be avoided. Because the panels are polyurethane finished to give maximum water protection. If this seal is broken it will weaken the panels defence against water. However if cutting is necessary follow these steps: 1. To prevent surface splinters, score the section to be cut with a sharp knife. 2. Use a fine tooth cross saw. 3. Re-seal any exposed timber using a varnish to prevent water penetration. 4. If the cut area is in a location that s likely to be regularly splashed then you should also seal with silicone to prevent water seeping onto the cut. Some types of baths have obstructions that prevent the panel from sitting flush with the rim of the bath. The result is that the top edge of the panel protrudes from the rim of the bath by as much as 10mm. This is not a fault of the bath panel. It is perfectly acceptable for the panel to be fitted this way, but should it be visually unacceptable then the only course of action is to remove the obstruction or cut the panel to avoid it. (You can see an example in Figure 2 of a plastic bath with steel cradle foot system.) Note: Do not carry any grooves or notches into any of the panel fields as they are too thin. If steel legs obstruct the panel over the entire bath height then it will not be possible to fit the panel flush to the bath rim. Some panels may have an obstruction running the entire length of the bath under the rim.(possibly a chipboard strengthener) The only action is to machine a rebate along the entire length of the panel. This should only be attempted using power tools, as a hand plane will exert too much force on the panel s frame construction. The following guidelines should be followed when modifying the panel: 1. Rebate is no more than 10mm in depth. 2. Rebate is no more than 50mm in height. 3. The cut area is re-sealed with at least 2 coats of polyurethane varnish. 4. The rim of the bath & top edge of the panel are sealed with silicone sealant to prevent water seeping onto the rebated area. Supporting the panel in the correct position Note: Panels are not intended as support for the bath. It is assumed the bath is installed in the correct and stable manner before installation of panels. The recommended method of supporting the panel is using softwood strips that are fixed to the walls at either end of the bath. A complete frame should not be necessary as the panel is stable and rigid enough already. Once the plinth is fixed its simply a matter of securing the panel to the softwood strips. The dimensions of the softwood strips will vary according to sizes readily available and the amount of space you have under the bath. A section of ¾ inches and 1½ inches should be sufficient. Make sure the strips are then fastened securely. 14

Bath Panels Fitting Bath & Bath End Panels Front Panel Only Installation If only a front panel is to be fitted, you simply secure the softwood strips at either end of the bath (Figure 1) If it is necessary to trim the panel to length, you must re-seal the timber as described previously. Front & End Panel Installations When fitting a front and end panel, it is recommended that the panels are joined together before fitting them to the bath. The panel can be joined using standard plastic jointing blocks or an additional softwood strip that is screwed to the back of the panels. The panels are designed so that the end panel sits behind the front panel. It will necessary to shorten the front panel plinth by 19mm so that the end panel can be accommodated. (Figure 2) Once the front and end are joined together, the assembly can be secured at each loose end to the softwood strips. (Figure 3) All Installations The softwood strips will need to be set back from the rim of the bath by 20mm to allow for the thickness of the panel. You may also need to allow for the thickness of any material that secures the panel to the softwood strips.(for example - Velcro). To avoid complication of cutting a rebate for the plinth, simply stop the softwood strip 205mm above floor level. The plinth will then slot underneath. (Figure 3) Securing Panels In Place To secure the panel to the softwood strip, we recommend using velcro(or similar). This is secured to the softwood strip and the back edge of the panel and you simply push the panel/s into place. You will need approx 1 metre of velcro(self adhesive or plain). Plain velcro can be tacked into place using flat head tacks or nails. Note: You must allow for any thickness of the velcro(or alternative material) when positioning the softwood strips. This is because it has the effect of moving the panel out from the rim of the bath by approx 2-3mm(Figure 4). The advantage of using Velcro is that you do not need accurate positioning for it to be effective. You can also easily remove the panels should access to pipework be required. Alternative methods of securing the panels are: Magnetic catches, spring clips, double-sided foam tape or screws with dome caps. Grab adhesive can be used but should the panel need removing, damage may occur. 15

Laminate & Solid Surface Worktops Drilling For Taps In A Worktop The position of the taps should be marked onto the worktop by following the manufacturers recommended instructions. (Figure 1) Once marked in the correct position, you should drill through the worktop using a hole saw. (Figure 2) Any raw edges(on both the surface material and MDF substrate) should be sanded to a slight radius and smooth finish. Once sanded, apply a good silicone sealant to these edges and smooth out to ensure a full and even coverage. (Figure 3) The tap/s should then be fitted by following the manufacturers fitting instructions. 16

Laminate & Solid Surface Worktops NOTE: PLEASE READ CAREFULLY BEFORE BEGINNING WORK We advise that you begin fitting from a corner where possible, ensuring that the correct spacing is used where corner fillers are used. All doors and fascias should be removed prior to fitting to avoid any unneccesary damages occurring whilst fitting the worktop. RECOMMENDED TOOLS Portable Router - To be used for all cuts and cross cuts wherever possible. (Figure 1) Belt Sander - For finishing rough / cut edges. (Figure 2) Orbital Sander - For finishing rough / cut edges. (Figure 3) Hole Saw - For cutting out tap holes. (Figure 4) Jigsaw - A jigsaw must only be used with a brand new down-cutting blade & any instructions relevant on the following pages are strictly adhered to. (Figure 5) DO NOT USE Spade & Auger Type Drill Bits - Always use a hole saw! fig. 5 17

Laminate & Solid Surface Worktops Fitting A Worktop You should position the worktop on the units and push up against the wall to enable you to mark up and measure for cutting (Figure 1) Should you need to scribe the worktop to the wall, you should do so using a compass and pencil.(figure 2) We recommend that you allow 10mm to accommodate a worktop overhang on an exposed worktop edges. A belt sander should be used to remove the final bit of material, and to eliminate small chips or saw kerfs. If necessary you can hand finish the cut edges using sandpaper. (Figure 3) Any cut or raw edges, even those against walls should be sealed using a good quality silicone sealant, ensuring that you obtain a good coverage.(figure 4) Screw the worktop down to the cabinets, but be sure not to screw any deeper than 15mm into the substrate of the worktop.(figure 5) To finish, you should run a small bead of silicone between the joint of the worktop and the wall.(figure 6). stretcher plate max 1 screw fig. 5 stretcher plate max 1 1/2 screw fig. 6 18

Laminate & Solid Surface Worktops Installing A Basin Into A Laminate/Solid Surface Worktop When cutting out for a basin a template(supplied by the pottery manufacturer). This will either be an inset basin(figure 1) or a semi-recessed basin(figure 2). By following the pottery manufacturer s fitting instructions, lay the template in the desired position on the worktop and draw around it, allowing a 12mm overhang(figure 1). You should make these cutouts using a portable router wherever possible. If you do need to use a Jigsaw, make sure all small chips and saw kerfs are removed by sanding the edges, and producing a slight radius to the surface. To accommodate a semi-counter top basin, the worktop must be cut at points A & C and sealed with a good quality silicone sealant. By cutting as shown in the diagram it will allow the basin to fit closely to the fascia of the unit below. (Figure 3) Once the basin is in its place, apply a bead of silicone sealant around the joint between the pottery and the furniture THIS WILL PREVENT WATER INGRESS! Continue to fit the basin following the pottery manufacturers fitting instructions. Do not cut a square corner in Solid Surface Worktops, always cut with at least a 5mm radius (Figure 4) Fitting Ceramic Slab Basins/Sit-On Basins/Semi-Recessed Basins Basins can be fixed directly to the unit by using a good quality silicone sealant around the top of the unit and the back of the slab top. This will bond the slab basin to the top of the unit and to the wall and offer extra support.(figure 5) You should also bond semi-counter top and sit on basins to the worktop with a good quality sealant. Y X silicone sealant fig. 5 19

Care & Maintenance Guide For Your Vanity Hall Furniture

General Care & Maintenance Guide Vanity Hall have been manufacturing high quality bathroom furniture in the West Midlands for retail showrooms for over 20 years. Offering a beautiful range of both contemporary and traditional styles. We have come to know how furniture changes naturally with age, and how best to look after the furniture to avoid future problems. Some of our installations have lasted for well over a decade and still look great today, whereas others have had parts replaced after a few years. Much of this will depend on how the furniture has been treated. Vanity Hall furniture comes with a five year guarantee, but we continue to support our showroom and customers long after this time and endeavour to help as much as we possibly can. However the guarantee does not cover misuse or abuse, nor does it cover fair wear and tear. Most damages can be repaired or replaced, however the costs (including upheavals, collections and re-deliveries) can be very high. If you follow these guidelines then most problems can be avoided, and will allow you to enjoy and gain the most from your Vanity Hall furniture for many years to come! Fitting & Sealing Vanity Hall furniture should be fitted by a qualified installer and in-line with our fitting instructions. All cut edges should be re-sealed, silicone seals should be put in place to protect worktops, bath panels, mirrors and where water damage may occur. Cleaning When cleaning your furniture you should only use a slightly damp, clean cloth. Persistent marks can be removed by using a mild household cleaning solution and warm water (non-abrasive). It should then be dried with a soft, clean cloth. Under no circumstances should neat bleach / abrasive cleaning proucts or strong detergent be used to clean any of our furniture. Excess Water & Condensation Your furniture will be adversely affected by water spillages & heavy condensation. To preserve the condition of your furniture it is important to wipe dry any excess water immediately to prevent damages that may occur due to standing water. As with any bathroom products it is important that your bathroom is well ventilated & fitted with a suitable extraction fan(considered in the design of your bathroom) to prevent heavy condensation. 21

General Care & Maintenance Guide Timber Products In the production process of solid wood and wood veneered furniture, great care is taken in the selection of the timber used. Unfortunately, because this is a natural, living product it is not possible too achieve total uniformity of shading and grain pattern. A natural wax polish should be used sparingly and applied using a soft dry cloth on wooden products. High Gloss Finishes High Gloss furniture is finished with a Polyurethane lacquer, which is a modern & durable finish. This requires a little more care and maintenance. After cleaning the furniture in-line with the guide lines in the cleaning section above, you should also remove any moisture & finger prints with a clean, dry, micro-fibre cloth. Laminate Worktops When cleaning laminate worktops you should use a slightly damp, clean cloth. Persistent marks can be removed by using a mild household cleaning solution & warm water (non-abrasive). It should then be dried with a soft, clean cloth. Under no circumstances should neat bleach / abrasive cleaning products or strong detergent be used to clean any of our worktops. Solid Surface Worktops For everyday cleaning, you can wipe the surface with a damp sponge or cloth and dry with a soft micro-fibre cloth to prevent spotting. For basic stains you can clean with a mild detergent and damp sponge/cloth, before rinsing with clear water and drying with a micro-fibre cloth. You can visually enhance the colour of your surface by applying a commercially available non-abrasive cleaner formulated for solid surfaces (for example Countertop Magic ) and wipe away any excess, buffing dry with a soft micro-fibre cloth. For stubborn stains & minor scratches - please contact us for further information on how to rectify these problems. 22

Terms & Conditions Vanity Hall furniture & worktops are guaranteed for five years from date of purchase invoice. Within this period any fault in product that is as a result of manufacturing defect will be replaced free of charge with a matching item or nearest equivalent. Any product that is faulty due to not following the Vanity Hall after-care requirements will be void of guarantee. Vanity Hall is not liable to cover the re-fitting cost of any products, compensation, stolen items or damage claim. Please try to wipe all excess moisture from Vanity Hall furniture to increase longevity and reduce the risk of water stains over a period of time. Vanity Hall recommends the use of a duster or damp (not wet) cloth to clean our furniture and worktops. The use of furniture polish or strong cleaning products is likely to remove protective surfaces and void guarantee. Vanity Hall furniture is only guaranteed for use in a domestic installation. Any products used in a commercial installation will be void of guarantee. Any guarantee is limited to the original purchaser of Vanity Hall products. The guarantee is non transferable and does not cover the cost of ex-display items. Vanity Hall furniture has been designed and manufactured for use in general bathroom installation. It has not been designed for use in areas subject to excessive moisture and exposure to high levels of water contact. All bathroom furniture will deteriorate through prolonged periods of exposure to these situations. All bathrooms must be adequately ventilated using suitable ventilation. Failure to do this will void guarantee. Products that are installed with direct contact to high levels of water will also void guarantee. The installation of Vanity Hall Furniture & worktops should be in full accordance to our fitting instructions (these are available via our website). Any instance of a fault in the fitting of Vanity Hall products that is due to not following these instructions will result in a void of guarantee. Vanity Hall is part of the Du Pont Corian Quality Network partnership. Should you require any restoration to your solid surface worktop Vanity Hall are able to offer care & maintenance products and on-site services. All Vanity Hall products are manufactured to order. Any items that are returned to Vanity Hall will be subject to a 25% re-stocking fee. All items must be in a re-saleable condition and are only accepted for return within 4 weeks of delivery to retailer. Any bespoke items are non- returnable. Sanitary-ware supplied by Vanity Hall is subject to a 2% dimensional tolerance. Any items that are outside of this will be replaced free of charge. Installation must include all fittings supplied and follow the instructions provided. Failure to do this will void guarantee. All concealed cisterns and WC frames supplied by Vanity Hall are covered by a two year guarantee from Thomas Dudley. Installation must include all fittings supplied and follow the instructions provided. Any faults that arise with Thomas Dudley products can be dealt with directly by the manufacturer. Please contact 0121 557 5411. A waterproof sealant must be used to protect any raw edges on furniture that has been cut to suit a basin or pipe work. Failure to do this will void guarantee. We strongly recommend that Vanity Hall furniture is not installed in direct sunlight. Continued exposure to direct sunlight may cause door and drawer fronts to discolour. Due to the photographic and printing process required some images shown within this brochure may not be an exact representation of the finished product. Any products will only match a finished sample provided. Our policy is one of continuous improvement and we reserve the right to change the specification and design of any Vanity Hall product without prior notice. 23

VANITY HALL FURNITURE Unit 6, Powke Lane Industrial Est. Powke Lane, Rowley Regis, West Midlands B65 0AH Telephone: 0121 561 4555 Facsimile: 0121 559 9610 Email: sales@vanity-hall.com WWW.VANITY-HALL.COM