O-Aust Kits PO Box 743 ALBANY CREEK QLD 4035 AUSTRALIA Phone +61 (0)7 3298 6283 (7.00pm to 9.30pm ONLY) Facsimile +61 (0)7 3298 6287 (24 hours) Mobile 0419 680 584 Email pa_rl_krause@bigpond.com Web www.oaustkits.com.au NSWGR Class SRC Refrigerated Wagon Kitset in 7mm Scale Prototype Information Four different types of SRC were built, the first appearing in 1927. The version being modelled is the last design, introduced in 1923. It had a body length of 20'0" and a wheelbase of 11'6", construction being a timber body on a steel underframe. When introduced they were fitted with bottle type buffers which appear to have been replaced by Cammel type at some stage. Some remained in service until around 1970.
SRC Refrigerated Wagon Kit Parts List Resin Castings 2 x Wagon Sides 2 x Wagon Ends 1 x Roof 2 x Roof Ice Hatch Covers 1 x Underbody/Floor 1 x Brake cylinder 4 x Brake shoes Brass Etch Fret 2 x Coupler cut lever brackets 2 x Ladders and Bracket Hardware 4 x Upper Lamp Brackets 4 x Lower Lamp Brackets Pewter Castings 4 x W Iron Axle Box Castings 2 x Brake rigging support Brackets 4 x Cammel Buffers 2 x Yard Brake Brackets Brass Castings 4 x Brass bearings 2 x Brake hoses 2 x Cross style brake wheels Wire 1 x 75mm length Dia 1.0mm brass 2 x 150mm length Dia 0.8mm brass 1 x 60mm length Dia 0.8mm brass 4 x 150mm length Dia 0.5mm brass 1 x 150mm length Dia 0.8mm galv. 2 x 37 spoked wheelsets 1 x 0.040 x 250 styrene for End Platforms 2 x 0.020 x 188 styrene for Roof Walkway Instruction Sheet and Decals ASSEMBLY SEQUENCE Read ALL instructions before commencing assembly to understand the correct sequence. All flash on the castings should be removed before assembly. Some castings may have air bubbles - these are easily puttied if desired and will not affect the end result. Occasionally a casting may be warped. This problem is easily rectified by placing in hot water in a flat bottomed container for a couple of minutes and allowed to cool on a flat surface. The instructions for the assembly of this kit assumes that the person assembling the kit has some basic kit building skills. The quality of the finished product is dependant on the care taken in its assembly. If you have any problems please feel free to contact O-Aust Kits direct. The resin parts in this kit are manufactured using a wax based release agent which needs to be removed to enable glue and paint to adhere properly. Either scrub the parts in lukewarm soapy water (not hot - heat may distort the parts) and rinse with clean cold water or wash the parts in clean white spirit. In either case take care with fine details to avoid breaking them off and ensure the parts are dry before continuing with assembly.
Similarly, pewter parts should be washed in warm soapy water and rinsed and dried to remove casting residues that may not be visible. The manufacturing process may give rise to a small variation in parts size. Critical parts have been matched at time of packing to ensure a good fit between them. If you are assembling more than one of these kits at a time do not intermix parts between kits keep them separate. Some tools that are particularly useful in resin kit assembly, apart from drills and a sharp craft knife, are abrasive blocks. A stout piece of MDF to which abrasive paper has been attached either by gluing with a thin film of contact adhesive or double sided clear tape is great for sanding large flat areas or long components. Manicure abrasive boards are good for touch up work. YOU WILL NEED TO SUPPLY Couplers -(the kit has been designed to fit Kadee #804 or #805 couplers but feel free to substitute). TOOLS REQUIRED Large files and needle files Superglue Pin vice and/or 'Dremel' and drills (0.5mm or #76 & 0.8mm or #67) Soldering iron (variable temperature) Low melt and resin cored solder Craft knife, tweezers, small pliers, side cutters, scissors Fine wet or dry paper Small clamps or alligator clips Modelling putty Decal setting solution Piece of glass or surface plate (steel) BODY ASSEMBLY Step 1 Refer to Figures 1-5 for location and size of all holes that require drilling. Complete this process now, whilst castings are in their flat state. Step 2 The corners of the sides and ends should be filed to a smooth surface to ensure a clean joint in the corners. Step 3 Attach one of the side castings to an end casting, taking care to line the castings up at the upper side headboard. The end castings fit inside the side castings. When happy with the position, apply glue and hold firmly in place until the glue sets. It is recommended that you reinforce the by applying 5-minute epoxy adhesive or Plastibond, making sure that the joint is square. Repeat the process for the other side and end.
Step 4 To make up the body, glue the 2 sub assemblies together ensuring that the joints are square and the corners are flush. Any gaps will need to be puttied. Ensure the corners are square using the floor as a guide. Leave until completely set. Step 5 The Roof may now be added to the body assembly, positioning the casting with the guides provided on the roof underside. Reinforce the remaining joint between the roof and the body by applying 5 minute epoxy adhesive and/or gluing some styrene off cuts to the inside of the body. The joint between the roof and the body may require puttying and/or sanding to achieve a satisfactory finish. Step 6 Check that the dimensions of the floor casting match those of the assembled body. Make adjustments to the floor casting where necessary, keeping in mind that any adjustments need to be made equally to each side/end. Now join the wagon body to the floor by inserting the floor casting into the body. Take care that the floor sits evenly within the body. The bottom of the side castings should be level with the tops of the brackets cast onto the solebars. When happy with the floor position, apply glue and hold firmly in place until the glue sets. Step 7 The roof detail (ice hatches & walkway) may now be added. Install the hatches in place with the hinges facing inwards. Measure and cut to length the two pieces of 0.020 styrene strip and cement to the brackets moulded on top of the roof forming the walkway. You will now have a body that will look something like this :
Step 8 Examine the brass etch fret and Identify the parts prior to assembly. The Ladders on the wagon ends can now be assembled as follows : The ladders are fitted on the left of each end looking toward the end, and are centered on the buffers. Carefully remove the ladder sections and place all of the parts from the inside of the ladders into a secure plastic bag for later use. Clean up any tabs that are present of the edge of the ladder stiles, and if you find them hard to remove, wait until the ladder is constructed to remove them. Using a hold and fold tool, place the ladder etch into the tool so that the fold line is just visible, clamp the tool up and fold the edge at 90 degrees, remove the etch and do the same with the other stile, so that the ladder is
now in a U shape. The less you handle the ladder at this stage the better, as the stiles are very fragile and you don t want to be having the straighten any bent stiles. Check the hole size in the stiles, and fit the appropriate wire, 0.5mm Dia. The etching process can vary and the holes may differ slightly, either wire size would be OK, so it is your choice. If you have a KRM ladder forming support jig, try and fit the ladder into a couple of the groves. It should fit snugly. Once located in the jig, feed a wire through both stiles and push a rung hard up against the vertical support. This has the effect of squaring up the ladder. Place a small piece of masking tape across the ladder stiles, which help to hold them firmly in the jig, whilst building. Cut all the required rungs from the wire, and fit them, so that they protrude through either side of the ladder. When ready, solder one side of the rungs to the stiles. DO NOT SOLDER near a vertical section of the jig, as you will not remove the ladder from the jig. By soldering one side of the ladder first, you can ensure that the ladder can be squared up, before soldering to the other side. If necessary, adjust the ladder in the jig, so that all of the rungs can be soldered into place. Solder from the outside, allowing the smallest amount of solder to run through the rung holes and onto the inside of the stiles. When both ladders are soldered, use the wet and dry paper and the small files to clean up the ladder side. A very small amount of the rung can be seen on the outside of the ladder stiles, and be very careful when handling the ladder during this operation as it only needs to get caught once, making it bent and twisted. When finished, fit the ladders into place on the wagon with ACC and install bolt heads as required. Refer to figure 6 for positioning on the wagon body. Step 9 End Platform Brackets There are 4 brackets on the fret, 2 small brackets, and 2 larger brackets; the small brackets are the top brackets that directly support the timber platform. The larger brackets support the smaller
bracket and secure to the wagon end as shown in the adjacent photo. To make the assembly of the brackets a little easier, there are 2 cross braces that need to be removed after the brackets have been assembled. These cross braces hold the assembly nicely, both for locating and for keeping the whole lot nice and square. The timber platform can be made from the styrene provided, with its dimensions shown in figure 8 Once the assembly is completed and test fitted, and you are happy with the result, the bracing can be removed, leaving two complete brackets as per photo above. After the brackets are test fitted, they can be secured in place using ACC. Figure 8 helps you locate the assembly on the model. You can also fit bolt heads in the 6 locations as shown in the adjacent photo if you desire. Repeat this process for the platform on the other end. Prototype pictures and brass etch text coutesy of Kieren Ryan Models Step 10 Fix one axlebox casting in its location on the underbody, using the cast on lugs as guides for its positioning. Place one wheelset in a fixed axlebox. Fit the other end into a loose axlebox and dry fit to ensure they are vertical and the wheels spin freely. If the wheels bind it will be necessary to shorten the axles by filing small and equal amounts from each end of the axle until the wheelset spins freely without any sideplay. Ensure that the loose axlebox is exactly square with the fixed one. Glue in position with the wheelset in place. Repeat the process for the other wheelset. Note: Before final gluing, stand on glass sheet to ensure all wheels are level. Pack down any axleguard until all wheels are level. Step 11 Fit the brake rigging vertical supports to the underframe on the brake cylinder side (where the mounting block is on the casting). Position casting in behind the locating lug that guides the axlebox casting. The support with four holes is positioned at the yard brake end and the three holed one on the other end. Make sure that the holes are clear (0.8mm) before fitting. Refer to figure 10 for further details. Step 12 Fit the brake cylinder to the chassis beam with the cylinder over the mounting block and pointing towards the shunters end. Link the brake cylinder to the fourth hole of the brake rigging vertical support with a piece of 0.8mm brass wire. Step 13 A pair of subassemblies should be made next, as per figure 9. These are simple to make if a jig is constructed on a piece of scrap timber using the dimensions shown, and small nails as a guide to the bending and joining points. The V shaped piece can be made overlong and trimmed after completion. Solder in the marked places (a simple butt join will suffice). Step 14 The next step is to fit the brake shoes. Use 1.0mm wire for the straight shaft brake hangers. Adjust the length of each of the brake shoe hangers to the correct position relative to the wheels allowing some
length for the hole. 1.0mm holes were predrilled in the floor at Step 1. Slide the brake shoes onto the ends of the straight shaft brake hangers, but do not glue yet. Sit the brake hangers in the holes in the wagon floor outside the wheelsets and in line with the wheel treads and thread the puller through the end hole of the adjacent brake rigging hanger. Adjust until satisfied with the register of each brake shoe with its attendant wheel as close as practical without touching when the wheels are spun. Glue all points of contact, i.e. the two brake shoes to the brake shoe hangers, the hangers in the floor and the puller in the "V' shaped assembly, trimming the puller when all has set.. Repeat the process with the other end. Step 15 Refer to figure10 for the addition of the long brake rod (0.8mm wire), return spring and two centre safety loops (0.5mm wire). The coil spring can be made separately using soft thin wire and threaded onto the return spring and tacked in place with superglue, or alternatively use a spare Kadee coupler spring. The centre safety loops are located either side of the brake rigging hangers and over the two puller rods. Holes (0.5mm) were pre-drilled at Step 1 These all should now be positioned. The four safety loops for the brake puller assemblies outside each wheel should also be fitted. These take the form of an inverted "U" with right angled corners and are fitted into 0.5mm holes drilled in the floor at Step 1. Step 16 Couplers of your choice should now be fitted as per the suppliers instructions (couplers are not supplied with this kit). Step 17 The yard brake brackets are now fitted on the inside of the solebar. The ratchet handle is on the outside of the wagon and pointing to the end of the Wagon. Use 0.5 mm wire for this handle and shaft, bending the wire to form the handle. A length of 0.8mm brass wire forms the yard brake shaft between the two spider wheels. Step 18 The coupler release bar brackets are now fitted. The moulded on brackets may be trimmed from the end of the body and replaced with the etched brass brackets supplied. Please note there are 2 types of brackets on the etch. One is intended for the position above the coupler while the other is located at the corner of the wagon. The release bars are then formed using 0.5 mm brass wire thin wire. Refer to figure 7 for further information. Step 19 Glue the train pipe hoses in the holes drilled in step 1. Refer to figure 3. Step 20 The handrails that we previously drilled holes for in Step 1 can now be formed using the 0.5mm wire and added to the body. Refer to figures 1,2 and 4 for locations of handrails on the sides, ends and roof. Fix in place with a spot of ACC. Step 21 The wagon is now ready for painting. For the SRC, the roof, under body and bogies are black and the sides and ends are white. Any gloss paint that is plastic compatible should be suitable. Step 22 Decals - Ensure the paint is thoroughly dry and dust free (NOTE: Decals adhere better to a gloss surface.trim margins around letters and numbers as close as possible, place in warm water until design is almost ready to release from backing paper, then place on paper towel to absorb excess water. Wet area with decal setting solution, place decal on model and slide off backing paper into position. Apply decal setting solution over design, mop up excess solution with edge of kitchen paper and allow 24 hours drying time. To protect decals and paint work, spray a thin coat of clear flat paint (eg. Testor s Dull Cote or similar brand) over entire model. Allow 24 hours drying time. Weathering to your requirements is recommended. The wagon should be ready to roll after lubricating the axles.