POORMANPROPS SEPTEMBER 24 th Make-N-Take

POORMANPROPS SEPTEMBER 24 th Make-N-Take

CREEPY CANDLES Based Off http://www.instructables.com/id/pvc-candles/ Tools: Hack saw or miter saw or PVC cutters (that can cut 1 ½ PVC) Hot glue gun Materials: 1 ½ inch white PVC pipe LED or standard candle tea light Hot Glue Foam pipe insulation White spray paint Steps: The first step is to cut the PVC to the size of your candle(s). Spray painting the PVC White or use sandpaper or acetone to remove and printing on the PVC pipe.

Tips: If you're using a miter saw which allows for angle cuts, cutting one end at an angle will add a nice effect. The miter saw also allows you quickly cut a lot of candles like I wanted. I prefer to do things in bulk. One candle is nice, but 60+ is better. Dab Method: This is one option for how to apply the "wax" to your candle. Dab the hot glue down the side candle to create the dripping wax starting from the top. Use various lengths to create a realistic effect. Drip Method: Another method of applying is to use large drips. Apply a large glob of hot glue at the top of the PVC and allow it to drip down the side. Continue to add more layers until you are happy with the look. Be sure to get some around the top of the candle as well.

Caution: When putting was on the top, try not to get it inside the PVC, as then your tea light might not fit. If you do get some down the inside (like in photos here), you'll have to remove it. It comes off pretty easy, but you may need to use a knife to cut it off The final step is to add the tea light to your candle. Cut a 1 piece of the foam pipe insulation and stuff this inside the PVC for the LED tea light to sit on. Place an LED tea light inside the PVC. Variations: Painting: You can paint the candle and use various aging techniques to enhance the look of the candle. However, this is only really needed if they are going to be in a lighted area. In the dark, you cannot tell if it has been painted or not. Use bigger PVC: You can use larger diameter PVC (etc 2 ½) to create larger candles. Cut and use a piece of white foam in place of the foam pipe insulation to hold the tea light. Groups: Before adding the wax, glue three different size PVC pieces together to go make a grouping. You can use the hot glue or PVC cement to do this. Hard-wire LED: If you make a lot of candles and don't want to deal with turning them all off/on, you can use flickering LEDs instead of the tea lights. This will allow you to wire them all up together.

MILK JUG SKULLS Based off https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwlj5rysfg4 Materials: Steps: 1. 1 Gallon plastic milk jug. 2. Full size skull, made of cement, ceramic, or even plaster. 3. Heat Gun 4. Spray water bottle. 5. Scissors and/or knife. 1. Cut out handle and lid section of milk jug.

2. Place milk jug over skeleton head. It may require some additional cuts or extending cuts to get plastic on. Different manufacturers of the skulls and jugs cause this, due to their manufacturing process. You should also remove the label, it could catch fire during heat gun use. 3. Using the heat gun, start slowly heating the face area. It is good to start with the face area for it will require the most detail. Do not get the gun to close to the plastic. You can burn right through the plastic. Once you get a certain area to your liking, spray with the water to help lock the plastic in that position. If you do not do this the plastic could stretch back out from its current look, when cooling. As shown below in the picture, we chose to burn out the eyes in this skull. Keep in mind that this can only be done if the skull you are using for your mold has no eyes in it. You could also choose to cut out the eyes, after you are done, with a knife.

4. Proceed to melt all the surrounding areas of the head. Keep in mind that you can still burn through the plastic, so, watch what you are doing. Also, keep using the water to help lock the plastic into place. 5. Now to remove the skull, this may take some special skills. I have found that at times it will just stretch right off. Other times I need to cut the top cut a little longer towards the front of the face to get it off. You will have to judge this depending on how your plastic melted. FLICKER CIRCUIT Based Off http://halloweenpropmaster.com/u-build-it3.htm

Materials: Steps: 1. FS-2 Flourescent Starter 2. Flourescent Starter Socket 3. Wire Cutters 4. Crimping terminals 5. Crimpers 6. Wire Strippers 7. Extension cord 8. Heat shrink tubing 9. Heat gun or lighter. 1. Close to the plug in end of your extension cord, cut a slit down the center, between the two wires. Note that we are using a 2-wire extension cord for this. If you are using a 3-wire, you would need to cut all wires. 2. Pull apart the two wires exposing roughly 4 inches of area. Then cut one of the wires. You can now use the strippers and cut back the wire on both cut sides of the wire. You need to expose roughly a ¼ of wire, as shown on the left wire below.

3. Take your starter base and cut back the supplied wires to about 1 from the socket itself and expose those wires as well. The picture below shows roughly 5 of wire, we will not need that much. Also, note that sockets come in a variety of different colors and shapes. 4. Now we need to use the crimpers and the crimping terminals to connect the wires together. At this point you can crimp the extension cord side of the wires. Don t forget to slide on your heat shrink tubing, so we can cover the crimping later.

Now crimp on the socket side of the wiring. Note, there is no right or wrong way to do this. As long as it is crimped so the socket is placed in line with the extension cord wire, you are good. The picture below is showing what we are doing. Note: In the picture, it is showing an optional fuse in line. This is an optional step. Since we are dealing with 110VAC power, some believe that you need a fuse in there in case the FS-2 blows, etc. This is not true. If the FS-2 gets over heated, it just stops working. When this occurs the FS-2 will either stay open or closed, meaning your lights will be always on or always off. Just turn off circuit to let cool. This could also occur if you have to many watts on the circuit. 5. Now that you have your wires crimped we can now slide the heat shrink over the connectors and using the heat gun, melt the heat tape. This will create a cover over the connector so someone does not get shocked if they grab the wires. 6. As an optional step, some like to cover the entire wiring area with electrical tape. This is up to you. I have found that as long as you have your device

where it CAN NOT GET WET, you should have no problem with it. Just do not cover the FS-2. Just in case it goes bad, you would need to replace the FS-2. 7. Note that this circuit is designed to be used with a 50 watt or lower bulb or a string of lights that draw no more than the 50 watts of power. Also, this device is not water proof or even water resistant. You would need to place this device in a Tupperware box, or something like this, to use outside in the elements. CREEPY SIGNS Materials: 1. Wood, cut to desired size. 2. Stencils of your favorite Halloween Saying. 3. Optional black spray paint 4. Paint brushes 5. Masking tape 6. Various other color paints. 7. Optional clear coat paint. Steps: 1. Cut wood to desired size. 2. Spray paint the wood black if you desire. Some like the wood look instead. 3. Tape your stencil in place on your piece of wood. 4. Using brushes, paint the stencil onto your piece of wood, and remove stencil. 5. Let paint dry and then spray clear coat on top of paint if desired.