Basic Hive Building. By Dan Novak. All rights reserved

Basic Hive Building By Dan Novak All rights reserved

Basic Hive Building Langstroth

Tools required Hammer Glue exterior waterproof/resistant Nails 7d galvanized Tape measure Chalk Acid brush for glue Small disposable container Framing square (optional) Clamps (optional) Bandages and ice (hopefully not needed)

Hive Body Assy 1. Four sides to the main chamber. Two of each size. 2. Note the interlocking box joints at edges 3. Also note the carved handholds. 4. Handholds must be toward the top 5. If not using precut kit, cleats may be used instead of carved handholds.

Note how the fingers will line up for assembly Inside of short end panels is a ledge that serves as a frame rest.

Trial fit all joints to ensure ease of installation before nailing or gluing. Make all necessary corrections before proceeding. Take note of the pre drilled nail holes.

While trial fitting the joints, use chalk to mark the edges as shown. This will show you where NOT to put glue during assembly Do this for all four corners.

Pour glue into small container. Makes for easier application Ensure you have the matching pieces. Apply glue with brush to the valleys on the board edges. Do both pieces. One corner at a time. Do not put glue on chalked areas.

Note the glued edges Fit boards together Wipe off excess glue with damp cloth or towel.

Be sure to hold the joint as tight as possible when nailing. Use the predrilled holes only. You must put a nail in every hole.

Repeat gluing process for the remaining three corners. Again, remember to ensure handholds are aligned on the top and the frame rest rails are also on the upper inside surface. Not all kits are foolproof. Once all joints are glued up, run a bead of glue along the inside corners. If glue seeps in, apply a second coat. This will fill in gaps where hive beetles like to lay eggs.

Before the glue sets up, it s a good idea to be sure your box is truly square. If not, it may not fit well with the bottom board, additional hive bodies, or top cover. Use a framing square

Alternate means to test squareness. Use corner clamps Measure diagonals If diagonals are equal, then box is square

Once squareness has been achieved, use two strips of wood and tack across corners to lock box position. Place the box on a flat floor or table and weight down overnite to let glue cure. This will ensure all boxes fit well together without gaps or rocking.

Frames

Two basic types of frames Assembled Unassembled Frames support the foundation on which the bees will build their comb. Several variations of the frames but assembly is much the same for all. Tools required: Hammer Nails Glue Hive tool or knife

Layout your frame parts and prepare for assembly Remove wedge strip from top bar if present. This can easily be done with the hive tool as shown. The tool will finish splitting the strip. Set aside for later.

Apply glue to grooves and bottom of top rail. Repeat at both ends. Insert side rails onto each end of top rail as shown below

Apply glue to groove on bottom of side rails Insert bottom frame into slots on side rails

Secure each end of bottom rail with one nail Secure top rail with two nails each end

Check for squareness and adjust if required Set frame inside empty hive body to cure overnite

Insert the bottom of the wax foundation into the slot on bottom frame rail. If your foundation has hooks, that end is the top.

Flip frame upside down and finish tucking in the foundation. The hooks should seat flat on top rail

Secure foundation with the wedge strip previously removed. Use four nails evenly spaced

Your finished frame should look like this.

Plastic foundation Some frames come pre assembled with a wax coated plastic panel. These panels are more durable, more resistant to destruction from hive pests, and will save you assembly time. These frames however, are not always readily accepted by the bees.

These frame spacers can convert a ten frame super into an eight frame super. Do not use these in brood chambers as it will affect the critical bee space. With only eight frames in a honey super, the bees will build the combs deeper and overall honey capacity will increase by almost 10%. Note: This is an optional modification

Left 10 frame super converted to eight Right 10 frame super

Top covers, Inner covers Bottom Boards Queen excluders, Etc All of these items necessary to complete your hive are generally do not re quire assembly.

Inner Covers Inner covers are used for a variety of reasons. 1. It keeps the top cover from being propolized. down to the hive body. 2. The center hole in the cover allows for the installation of a bee escape and also provides a ventilation path. 3. The notch at the edge of the cover again allows for ventilation and can also provide an upper entrance for the bees.

Top Covers The cover shown is a telescoping cover. When slid in one direction it allows for upper ventilation and a bee entrance. When slid in the other direction it closes off ventilation as well as the top entrance.

Queen Excluders Used to keep queens (and drones) confined to a specific area of hive. Works because queen is significantly larger than workers Can keep honey super free of eggs and brood Metal excluders can last many seasons May require occasional cleaning to remove propolis.

Bottom Boards Two types of bottom boards Solid (left) Provides bee space at bottom of frames Restricts entry and ventilation to front slot only Screened (right)

Screened Bottom Board Advantages Provides added ventilation (especially helpful in So Fla) Allows trash to fall through and out of hive Allows for pest monitoring Mite counts Beetle/moth larvae Can be closed off for colder periods

Entrance reducers As indicated in title, this item will effectively reduce the entrance area for the hive. Your choices are Wide open (removed) 50% open 5% open Reasons to use Weak colony Prevent robbing Cold weather Other

Frame feeder You may find it necessary to feed a colony at some point. The internal frame feeder takes the place of a regular frame. It is filled with a sugar water solution. The inserts allow the bees to feed without drowning. By installing an internal feeder, the risks of robbing from other nearby colonies is reduced Feeding is generally done in unique circumstances. Long term feeding (exceeding 1 week) is discouraged.

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