International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 70 Selection of appropriate ring traveller number for different count of cotton hosiery yarn 1 Jamal Hossen, 2 Subrata Kumar Saha Department of Textile Engineering Ahsanullah University of Science and Technology 141-142, Love Road, Tejgaon I/A, Dhaka-1208, Bangladesh Abstract: has a great impact on yarn quality parameters specially hairiness. Yarn quality varies due to different traveller number. The traveller imparts twist to the yarn and enables winding of the yarn on the cop. However, cooperating assembly, the spindle is required for the winding operation. High contact pressure (up to 35 N/mm 2 ) is generated between the ring and traveller during winding, mainly due to centrifugal force. This research was established according to yarn parameter of hairiness, U,, i.e. imperfection index and end breakage rate per. It is very important for the technologist to understand this and act on them to optimize the yarn production. Specific number of traveller should be used for a particular count of yarn. Keywords: number, carded yarn, combed yarn, Uster Tester, hosiery yarn. I. INTRODUCTION The ring and traveller combination is effectively a twisting and winding mechanism [3]. Although it is very minute in appearance, it plays an important role in spinning operation [2]. Several investigations have been carried out on the influence of the ring traveller [4]. For a given yarn count, the longer the fibers, the fewer the number per unit length of a given yarn count, and this is reflected in the yarn hairiness. Consequently, there moving of short fibers by combing results in combed yarns being much less hairy than carded yarns of equivalent count [3]. In most cases, the limit to productivity of the ring spinning machine is defined by the traveller in interdependence with the ring, and yarn. The following shapes are in use in the short-staple spinning mills: (i) C-traveller (ii) Flat or oval traveller (iii) Elliptical traveller (iv) N-traveller (v) SUtraveller [1]. Usually, C-traveller is used in short-staple spinning mills. C-traveller and Kanai brand were used in this work. II. MATERIALS AND METHOD Formerly in the United Kingdom, the term hosiery was used in the generic sense of all types of knitted fabrics and goods made up there from. Combed, super carded and carded yarns are all used extensively for knitting [6]. In this study 26/1 Ne and 30/1 Ne carded hosiery and 24/1 Ne and 34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn were made from roving of hank 0.75. For both carded and combed yarns, twist multiplier were 3.6 and 3.5 respectively. Specific ring frame was selected and then any specific 10 spindles of that frame were selected. Ten yarn cops were collected by using five different traveller number of same manufacturing company (Kanai). Due to unavailability of the traveller of brand name like Bracker, Carter, Reiners and Furst, only the Kanai brand was used. Unevenness percentage(u),, hairiness (H), thin (-50)/km, thick (+50)/km, neps (+200)/km were tested by Uster Tester-5. Imperfection index () was calculated and end breakage rate (EBR) per also studied in each cases. Due to both lighter and heavier traveller end breakage rate vary and quality of yarn decrease by increasing the EBR. Then test results were analyzed for identifying suitable traveller number for above mentioned counts.
International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 71 Comparative chart of traveller weights [5] Table: A R+F Bracker Carter ISO-Nr. Kanai * ISO-Nr. Travel. No. ISO-Nr. ISO-Nr. Lighter 15/0 14.0 15.0 22.7 16.6 14/0 15.0 16.0 24.3 18.3 13/0 16.0 17.0 26 20.0 12/0 18.0 18.0 27.5 21.6 11/0 19.0 20.0 29 23.4 10/0 20.0 22.4 31 25.0 9/0 22.4 23.6 32 26.8 8/0 23.6 25.0 34 28.5 7/0 26.5 28.0 36 30.2 6/0 30.0 31.5 39 32.2 5/0 31.5 35.5 42 35.1 4/0 35.5 40 45 38.3 3/0 40 45 49 42.2 2/0 45 50 52 48.3 1/0 50 56 58 54.6 1 60 63 65 62.2 2 71 71 71 73.6 3 80 80 78 81.0 4 85 90 84 87.7 5 95 95 91 95.3 6 106 100 104 108.8 7 112 112 117 121.8 8 125 125 130 135.9 9 140 140 149 154.4 10 160 160 168 174.8 11 180 180 194 199.0 12 200 200 214 219.8 13 224 224 233 237.8 14 236 250 253 258.7 Heavier 15 250 265 272 277.1 * Weight series of the most important types (ISO No. = traveller weight in mg) The following testing equipments were used for this study. Uster HVI, Wrap Reel, Uster Auto Sorter, Uster Tester 5
International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 72 III. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end breakage rate per for 26/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn Table 1 U (-50) (+50) (+200) 1 10.13 12.88 5.57 0.3 66.3 91.3 157.9 55 1/0 10.09 12.98 5.32 1.0 81.8 94.0 157.9 50 2/0 10.48 13.33 5.54 1.8 86.5 103.8 192.1 61 3/0 10.54 13.35 5.49 1.9 85.7 102.9 190.5 61 4/0 10.55 13.45 5.62 1.8 87.4 104.3 193.5 64 Figure 1: number Vs U Figure 2: number Vs hairiness Figure 3: number Vs imperfection index () Figure 4: number Vs The figure 1 to 4 show that U, hairiness, and end breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 1/0. With respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of 26/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn, traveller number 1/0 is appropriate.
International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 73 Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end breakage rate per for 30/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn. Table 2 U (-50) (+50) (+200) 1 11.68 14.85 5.20 4.2 172.3 243.5 420.0 58 1/0 11.65 14.81 5.21 4.0 171.5 241.8 417.3 52 2/0 11.34 14.55 5.08 3.9 172.3 223.0 399.2 48 3/0 11.52 14.65 5.43 4.3 178.0 226.3 408.6 59 4/0 11.58 14.71 5.57 4.7 179.2 229.4 413.3 62 Figure 5: number Vs U Figure 6: number Vs hairiness Figure 7: number Vs imperfection Index () Figure 8: number Vs The figure 5 to 8 show that U, hairiness, and end breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 2/0. With respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of 30/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn, traveller number 2/0 is appropriate.
International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 74 Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end breakage rate per for 24/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn. Table 3 U (-50) (+50) (+200) 2 7.82 9.88 5.07 0.0 8.5 19.0 27.5 54 1 7.65 9.64 5.63 0.0 7.3 17.8 25.1 47 1/0 7.65 9.64 5.02 0.0 6.0 15.8 21.8 43 2/0 7.79 9.71 5.92 0.0 7.8 16.5 24.3 49 3/0 7.77 9.59 5.89 0.0 8.5 17.4 25.9 53 Figure 9: number Vs U Figure 10: number Vs hairiness Figure 11: number Vs imperfection Index () Figure 12: number Vs The figure 9 to 12 show that U, hairiness, and end breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 1/0. With respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of 24/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn, traveller number 1/0 is appropriate.
International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 75 Count and traveller number wise Uster test report and end breakage rate per for 34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn Table 4 U (-50) (+50) (+200) 1/0 8.99 11.48 4.78 0.0 10.4 33.7 44.1 53 2/0 9.04 11.38 4.65 0.0 10.5 32.3 42.8 52 3/0 8.95 11.27 4.52 0.3 7.0 24.0 25.0 47 4/0 8.95 11.27 4.54 0.3 9.0 25.3 34.6 54 5/0 9.98 11.35 4.54 0.5 9.9 29.6 40.0 55 Figure 13: number Vs U Figure 14: number Vs hairiness Figure 15: number Vs imperfection index () Figure 16: number Vs The figure 13 to 16 show that U, hairiness, and end breakage rate are the lowest for traveller number 3/0. With respect to above four quality parameters the best result is in this traveller number. So it can be concluded that in case of 34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn, traveller number 3/0 is appropriate.
International Journal of Engineering & Technology IJET-IJENS Vol: 11 No: 06 76 IV. CONCLUSION This study shows that the traveller number 1/0 is suitable for 26/1 Ne, traveller number 2/0 is suitable for 30/1 Ne carded hosiery yarn and traveller number 1/0 is suitable for 24/1 Ne, traveller number 3/0 is suitable for 34/1 Ne combed hosiery yarn. Because considering unevenness percentage, hairiness, imperfection index and end breakage rate per, it is clearly seen that above number of travellers are suitable for specific four different count of yarn. A spinning mill which is using the traveller of Kanai brand and looking for good quality yarn should try to use above traveller number for above mentioned count of yarn. Further study can be examined by using the traveller, brand of Bracker, Carter and Reiners and Furst for same count of carded, combed and compact cotton yarn. A comparative study can be done by using the different traveller number of specific brand against same count of carded, combed and compact cotton yarn. References: [1]. Klein W., Manual of Textile Technology The Textile Institute. ISBN 0900739916. [2]. Pattabhiram T. K., Essential Elements of Practical Cotton Spinning Somaiya Publications Pvt. Ltd. Mumbai, New Delhi. Fourth Edition 1997. [3]. Lawrence, Carl A. Fundamentals of Spun Yarn Technology Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data. ISBN 1-56676-821-7 (alk. paper). [4]. I. Usta, S. Canoglu, Influence of Ring Weight and Coating on of Acrylic Yarns University of Marmara Faculty of Technical Education, Department of Textile Studies, Göztepe, 81040 Istanbul, Turkey. [5]. Technical Manual of Reiners + Furst, Rings and s Reiners + Furst GmbH u. Co. KG. [6]. Starfish Quality Control Knit, Cotton Technology International, Manchester U.K.