So you d like to design your own woven fabrics? But you re not sure how
Designing your own fabrics FAQ Why would you want to design your own fabrics? What s the minimum order quantity? Is it going to cost a fortune? How long does it take? How on earth do I do this I haven t a clue! WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 2
Why would you design your own fabric? The look, drape and feel of a garment is massively influenced by the fabric you select. By working with John England to design your own fabric you are designing from the yarn upwards. It s the best way for you to create that truly unique style and design of garment, and stand out from the crowd. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 3
If you want to stand out from the crowd, give people a reason not to forget you Richard Branson WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 4
We ve never designed woven fabric before will you help us? Of course! We will guide you through the whole process, so that you get the look you want, AND you ll have fun along the way! Designing for weave is a different process to designing for print, but the resulting cloth has a higher perceived value and quality. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 5
What s the minimum order quantity? The minimum order quantity is 12 metres sample length yes that s right just 12 metres We always weave a sample of the repeat for approval, this costs 20* or 1* per centimetre, whichever is higher* This means you can develop, show and sell your range Before you order the run on of fabric only ordering the exact amount you need. To ensure that the fabric design is sold to no one else you must order a further 38 metres. However, if for some reason you are not able to order the 38m run on within three months, we may sell it to another customer to cover our design and set up costs. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 6
So..is it going to cost a fortune? Don t be daft! There are price breaks as the amount you order increases, so the price drops. Are you going to have to start printing money to pay for it? Definitely not! Prices vary depending on which yarn you pick and how densely your fabric is woven. For example a linen warp yarn with a lambs wool weft would cost around the 27 mark, whereas a recycled cotton weft with a linen warp could be under the 20 mark, but we will work with you to keep the cost within your budget. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 7
So how do we get started? What is the end use for the fabric Decide the fibers you would like (seasonal) Indicate what your colour palette is Find a visual of your inspiration WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 8
Palettes We have created over 3000 fabrics which you can use to form your own palette and fuel your creativity Fibres Texture Drape Colours Select your swatches and form your own palette www.johnengland.com WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 9
FIBRES The fibres you select are usually determined by the end use of the fabric Currently we weave linen warps with the following weft Linen Lambs wool Cotton & Recycled cotton Silk Alpaca / Cashmere In Development Bamboo Banana Pineapple Hemp Nettle WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 10
Yarn Development what we are aspiring to initially Pineapple Silk Delicate, translucent, soft and fine with a high shine. A plain weave fabric with applique dots adding a touch of finesse. Pineapple fibres are pale ivory in colour and naturally glossy. Banana The banana fibres are extracted from the STEM of a banana tree. This great quality yarn is delicate and soft and at the same time, can be dyed into different colours. It has high moisture absorbability and is thus perfect for the summer. Nettle The nettle plant produces fibres similar to flax. Nettle textile has been around since the late Bronze age but it fell out of favour when cotton arrived in the 16th century. It was used in military Uniforms in WW2 when cotton was in short supply. Nettle is an eco-friendly fibre. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 11
Textures As we develop more & more fabric for film TV and stage each year, we are in the fortunate position of being able to allow our imaginations to run wild, which once we leave university this is a luxury 95% of us have to leave behind. We are for example able to constantly experiment with weave structure. This gives us a wealth of not just experience and expertise to draw on but a whole universe of unique innovation. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 12
Drape We sew too, so we appreciate that drape is what can make an average garment look truly superb. By changing the pick rate, the yarn or the finish for example, we can dramatically alter the way a fabric drapes to suit its purpose. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 13
Colours We carry a large range of yarn colours Here are a few points that will help you; Colour theory that you may have learnt, doesn t really apply to woven colours If you want a particular pantone reference, to dye sample cone of yarn to your specification will cost approx. 80 per colour The best option is always to go for the nearest colour and we will combine yarns where we can Please DO NOT request a yarn chart, but just the colours and types of yarn you are interested in. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 14
Bespoke: Piece dyed Want to have your own colour? We can weave the griege / grey / loomstate Base fabric if you wish to dye yourself. If you would like us to dye for you; Minimum order quantity 80 metres. The cost p/m Is the same as the minimum order quantity cost There are price breaks as the quantity increases Time scale is usually around 8 weeks from sign off of lab dips Customers may be asked for a 50% deposit, new customers may be asked for payment via Proforma.
Case study 1 Inspired by nature Fir cones Repeat pattern supplied WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 16
The original brief was for a two colour pattern using a lambs wool weft. Samples in two scales Here you can see front and reverse sides, which as it is jacquard woven means it s two fabrics in one! WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 17
Working into the design Have you got the right Scale Colours Fibres Does it sit comfortably with the rest of your range? WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 18
Then we do our stuff, no need to worry about this bit WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 19
Then you get to see your samples and discuss any finishing. EG 2 scales 2 x100% linen 2 x linen cotton union WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 REVERSE 20
Case study 2 Designers Instructions This is a very complicate hand made structure that can not be reproduced on a commercial scale BUT All is not lost. WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 21
Looks complicated? Divide and Conquer Developing the 2 layer structure Adjusting the leno (net) Making it look hand stitched WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 22
Case Study 2 WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 23
WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 24
Case study 3 Take one of our designs and adjust it until its perfect for your look NOTE: This development fabric is not available in this format to other customers WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 25
Or just tell us verbally what you want, and leave the rest to us. We called this one morse code We want spotty denim that is a bit more interesting than just spotty WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 26
Contact us Jude Neilly Product Development & Design jneilly@johnengland.com Shelley Cochorane Key Accounts scochrane@johnengland.com (UK0044) 028 4062 0400 info@johnengland.com WWW.JOHNENGLAND.COM INFO@JOHNENGLAND.COM (UK 0044) 028 4062 0400 27