APPLICATION OF SOYBEAN PROTEIN FIBERS IN WOVEN FABRICS Małgorzata Matusiak Faculty of Material Technologies and Textile Design Institute of Architecture of Textiles, Lodz University of Technology, malgorzata.matusiak@p.lodz.pl Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
INTRODUCTION Soybean protein fibers (SPF) are the man - made renewable fibers made of botanic proteins from the soybean cake. Soybean fiber was invented by Henry Ford in 1937 and was termed as Soy wool. Henry Ford also made a suite and necktie from soybean fiber and used this unique fiber in car upholstery [1]. http://euroflax.com Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
INTRODUCTION The new soybean protein fiber was invented in 1998 and was promoted in 2000. Nowadays they are used in different textile products. Source: http://euroflax.com Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
INTRODUCTION The process of SPF manufacturing consists of the following stages: distillation and refine of the spherical proteins from the soybean cake, changing of the space structure of spherical proteins under the functioning of auxiliary agent and biological enzyme, production of the 0.9 ~ 3.0 dtex fibers by wet spinning, stabilization of fibers by acetalizing, cutting into short staples after curling and thermoforming [1]. Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: INTRODUCTION Soybean proteins contain 18 different amino acids [1]. Due to this fact the Soybean Protein Fibers possess health care and nursing function. While contacting the skin amino-acids in soybean protein could activate skin proteins. Content of amino-acids in SPF in mg g -1 [http://euroflax.com] Type of aminoacid Histi dine Isoleu cine Leucine Lysine Threo nine Trypto phan Degrease soybean protein 26 48 78 64 39 14 Separate soybean protein 28 49 82 64 38 14
Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: INTRODUCTION In the experiment the yarn made of SPF fibers manufactured by Swicofil AG were applied to produce the woven fabrics. Assortment of soybean protein fibers offered by Swicofil AG Linear density (dtex) 1.1 1.5 Length (mm) 38 51 76 38 51 76
Matusiak M. Ph.D., D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: INTRODUCTION Physical parameters of SPF [http://www.spftex.com ] No Parameter Unit Value 1. Bias of linear density % ± 10.0 2. Bias of length % ± 9.0 3. Breaking strength CN/dtex 2.5 4. CV value of breaking strength % <=20 5. Rate of over-length fiber % 1.00 6. Number of crimp No/25mm 7 7. Crimp ratio % 1.65 8. Residual crimp ratio % 0.88 9. Elastic recovery rate % 55.4 10. Shrinkage in boiling water % 2.2 11. Shrinkage in dry heat air % 2.3
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: INTRODUCTION Source: [Rijavec T., Zupin Ž., Soybean Protein Fibres (SPF), chapter in: Recent Trends for Enhancing the Diversity and Quality of Soybean Products, edited by Krezhova D., InTech 2011, pp. 501-522]
INTRODUCTION Advantages of SPF: SPF products are degradable by landfill back to the earth, SPF moisture absorption, ventilation, and warmth cover the superior performances of natural fibers and synthetic ones, SPF has the softness and smoothness of cashmere, Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: INTRODUCTION compared to animal protein, plant protein could be absorbed by human body more easily without side effect, the mass specific resistance of soybean fiber is similar to silk, and lower than other man-made fibers, the soybean fiber has good light fastness property and good resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which is better than cotton, viscose and silkm [1].
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D,Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: INTRODUCTION Till now some research works have been published concerning the soybean fibers [1-4]. Although the textile products from the SPFs are present on the market, the properties of yarns and fabrics made of them were not presented in any research papers.
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: THE AIM OF WORK The aim of work was: to investigate the soybean protein fibers, to apply the ring spun yarn made of SPF in manufacturing the woven fabrics, to assess the fabrics made of soybean protein fibers in the range of the basic structural, mechanical and physiological parameters.
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: PROPERTIES OF SOYBEAN PROTEIN FIBERS Investigated soybean protein fibers
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: PROPERTIES OF SOYBEAN PROTEIN FIBERS Microscopic pictures of soybean protein fibers
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: PROPERTIES OF SOYBEAN PROTEIN FIBERS Microscopic pictures of soybean protein fibers
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: PROPERTIES OF SOYBEAN PROTEIN FIBERS Result of fiber length measurement by AFIS Parameter Unit Value Average fiber length L(n) mm 37.7 Fiber length uniformity L(n) CV % 17.0 Short fiber content SFC(w) % 0.2
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF RING YARN Results of measurement of SPF yarn Parameter Unit Value Linear density Ttex 18.35 Mass variation coefficient % 0.86 Tenacity cn/tex 17.3 Breaking force variation coefficient % 8.27 Breaking elongation % 12.2 Elongation variation coefficient % 6.51 Twist turns m -1 818 Twist coefficient - 110.8 Twist variation coefficient % 5.0
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF RING YARN Results of measurement of SPF yarn Parameter Unit Value Uster Statistics CV % 12.7 50 % Thin places/1000 m - 0.0 < 5 % Thick places/1000 m - 16.8 25 % Neps/1000 m - 16.8 < 50 % Hairiness acc. to Hairiness Friction Tester - Friction coefficient acc. to Hairiness Friction Tester - 32.6-0.9 - Diameter acc. to OASYS mm 0.21 -
SPF RING YARN Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF FABRICS Two kinds of weave were applied in manufactured fabrics. Additionally, two kinds of weft yarns were introduced in the weft: 18.5 tex SPF ring spun, 20 tex cotton ring spun. Fabric were manufactured on the basis of the same warp made of 18.5 tex SPF ring spun yarn. Weave 1 Weave 2
SPF FABRICS Measurement methods Measurement of the basic structural and mechanical parameters of the investigated fabrics was done using the standardized testing methods. Circular stiffness of fabrics was measured by means of the Digital Pneumatic Stiffness Tester. Thermal insulation properties of fabrics were assessed by the Almabeta. Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF FABRICS Structural parameters of the SPF fabrics Parameter Unit Weave 1 Weave 2 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Mass per square meter gm -2 1.35 1.29 1.31 1.34 Warp density dm -1 302 280 302 273 Weft density dm -1 302 303 310 317 Warp take-up % 1.4 1.0 2.0 3.0 Weft take-up % 18.2 17.6 20.2 17.0 Thickness mm 0.36 0.50 0.39 0.50
SPF FABRICS Mechanical properties of the SPF woven fabrics Parameter Unit Weave 1 Weave 2 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Tenacity in warp direction cn 283.56 282.92 426.42 339.44 Tenacity in weft direction cn 323.36 234.20 297.56 364.48 Elongation in warp direction % 8.93 10.09 12.55 11.01 Elongation in weft direction % 39.04 25.70 36.48 25.64 Stiffness in warp direction mnm 0.01448 0.01218 0.01583 0.01552 Stiffness in weft direction mnm 0.00041 0.00119 0.00029 0.00145 Total stiffness mnm 0.00242 0.00381 0.00216 0.00476 Circular stiffness N 1.016 1.044 0.998 1.054 Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF FABRICS Utility properties of SPF woven fabrics Parameter Unit Weave 1 Weave 2 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Drapeability % 47.3 46.1 48.0 40.9 Thermal conductivity Thermal absorptivity Thermal resistance Thermal conductivity in wet state Thermal absorptivity in wet state Thermal resistance in wet state W m -1 K -1 10-3 36.2 37.1 38.1 37.8 Wm -2 s 1/2 K -1 119.0 102.2 132.7 116.3 W -1 Km 2 10-3 10.1 13.6 10.2 13.2 W m -1 K -1 10-3 69.9 92.8 - - Wm -2 s 1/2 K -1 653.3 456.3 - - W -1 Km 2 10-3 4.07 5.2 - -
cn SPF FABRIC PROPERTIES Weave 1 Weave 2 Parameter Unit SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Fabric tenacity Warp density dm -1 302 280 302 273 Weft density dm -1 302 303 310 317 400 350 300 250 200 Tenacity in warp direction 150 100 50 0 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2 Tenacity in weft direction Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
% Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF FABRIC PROPERTIES Fabric elongation 45 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 Elongation in warp direction Elongation in weft direction 0 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF FABRIC PROPERTIES Structural parameters of the SPF fabrics Parameter Unit Weave 1 Weave 2 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Mass per square meter gm -2 1.35 1.29 1.31 1.34 Warp density dm -1 302 280 302 273 Weft density dm -1 302 303 310 317 Warp take-up % 1.4 1.0 2.0 3.0 Weft take-up % 18.2 17.6 20.2 17.0 Thickness mm 0.36 0.50 0.39 0.50
mnm Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: SPF FABRIC PROPERTIES 0,018 Stiffness of SPF fabrics G tot G G 2 warp 2 * weft 0,016 0,014 0,012 0,01 0,008 0,006 0,004 0,002 0 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2 Stiffness in warp direction Stiffness in weft direction Total stiffness
N Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: % SPF FABRICS Circular stiffness 1,06 1,05 1,04 1,03 1,02 1,01 1 0,99 0,98 0,97 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2 50 48 46 44 42 40 38 36 Drapeability SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: mm SPF FABRIC PROPERTIES Thermal insulation properties of SPF fabrics 0,6 16 0,5 14 0,4 W -1 Km 2 10-3 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO 0,3 0,2 0,1 0 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2 Fabric thickness Weave 1 Weave 2 Thermal resistance
Wm-2 s1/2 K-1 Wm-2 s1/2 K-1 SPF FABRIC PROPERTIES Thermal insulation properties of SPF fabrics 140 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 SPF SPF/CO SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Weave 2 Thermal absorptivity in dry state 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 SPF SPF/CO Weave 1 Thermal absorptivity in wet state Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: CONCLUSIONS On the basis of the presented investigations it was stated that: ring yarn made of the soybean protein fibers can be processed in weaving process similarly to the cotton yarn, the technological process of warp preparation and weaving performed without any problems, the sizing means typical for cotton can be used for sizing the warp made of SPF (for instance Quelax),
CONCLUSIONS the woven fabrics made of soybean protein fibers are characterized by good mechanical properties, especially low stiffness, smooth surface and soft, silky handle, the thermal insulation properties of fabrics made of the soybean protein fibers are comparable to the thermal properties of fabrics of the similar structure made of SPF/cotton blends. Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business:
Referenes 1. Rijavec T., Zupin Ž., Soybean Protein Fibres (SPF), chapter in: Recent Trends for Enhancing the Diversity and Quality of Soybean Products, edited by Krezhova D., InTech 2011, pp. 501-522, 2. Li Yi-you, The Soybean Protein Fibre - A Healthy & Comfortable Fibre for the 21 st Century, FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2004, Vol. 12, No. 2 (46), pp. 8-9, 3. Kelley J.J., Pressey R., Studies with Soybean Protein and Fiber Formation, chapter in: Soybean Protein & Fiber Formation Vol. 43, 1966, pp. 195 206, 4. Zhang Y., Ghasemzadeh S., Kotliar A.M., Kumar S., Presnell S., Williams l.d., Fibers from Soybean Protein and Poly(vinyl alcohol), Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 71, 1999, pp. 11 19 Matusiak M. Ph.D, D.Sc. 2 nd International Conference- Science for Business: