Tools That Come With The Casting Kit 1. 2. 3. 4. Stone Setting Pliers Pin Vise Prong Lifter 80mm Brass Gauge 5. 6. 7. 8. Tweezer Burnisher Prong Pusher Ring Clamp Casting Tool Kit, from Jewelry Television Introduction Thank you for purchasing the Casting Tool Kit, from Jewelry Television. We have designed this kit with every skill level in mind: hobbyist, collector, or professional jeweler. Use these tools to set gemstones in various types of castings, tighten or adjust stones in their settings, or repair pieces of jewelry for yourself or others. Were these instructions helpful? Please send comments to tools@jtv.com These instructions contain general information for the tools in this kit. Please go to www.jtv.com to review our collection of reference books, DVDs, and other instructional materials that offer more detailed information about the capabilities of these tools. To review our complete line of tools, visit us on-line at www.jtv.com or call us toll-free and speak to one of our customer service representatives. (800) 581-3002 Page 1 Page 2
Getting Started With Your Casting Kit Using the Pin Vise This tool kit includes many of the tools commonly used by experienced jewelers and gemstone hobbyist. To avoid damaging either the gemstone or the setting, familiarize yourself with the function of each tool before you attempt to use it. One Important Principle Place the Mounting into a Securing Tool First. This kit contains two important securing tools that suit specific types of gemstone settings: the ring clamp and the pin vise. Use the ring clamp to secure rings. Use the pin vise to secure earrings. The pin vise is used to secure an earring post, a headpin, or any other item that has a long thin shank while the user adjusts or sets the stone in the setting. Much like the ring clamp, this tool employs friction to keep the post or pin from spinning or sliding. To use the pin vise, hold it vertical, with the locking nut on top. You should see a black nylon cross in the top end of the vise. (This cross is the bit into which you will insert the post of the earring.) Holding the shaft of the pin vise firm, turn the locking nut counter-clockwise to loosen the bit. As the bit loosens, it will appear to descend into he shaft of the pin vise. Once the bit is loose, insert the earring post or pin shank directly into the center of the cross. Using your hand, hold the setting at the desired height and the locking nut firm. Then rotate the shaft of the pin vise clockwise until the bit tightens on the earring post. Using the Ring Clamp The wooden ring clamp uses mechanical advantage to apply just enough pressure to hold the ring in place, yet not damage it. The clamp secures a ring by grabbing its shank securely between two jaws. The jaws are covered with leather to protect the shank. To use the clamp, pull down or remove the triangular wedge to loosen the padded jaws. Insert the shank of the ring into the padded jaws. Slide the wedge back toward the hinge until the padded jaws close on the shank. The closer the point of the wedge comes to the hinge, the greater the force applied at the tip of the jaws. If more force is required to keep the ring from moving, gently tap the butt of the wedge with the heel of your hand or with a lightweight rawhide mallet. Do not over tighten: the leather on the jaws will compress and hold the shank securely with relatively little force. Insert snap set casting into shaft to secure. Once secured, place over stone and apply pressure to snap in. When inserting a stone, make sure the stone is flat and level before you tighten prongs. Insert the rings shank into the padded jaws to secure it. Page 3 Page 4
Using the Brass Gauge Using the Stone Setting Pliers to Set a Stone GENTLE is the key to using the stone setting. Used gently and carefully, this tool helps the user to secure a gemstone into its setting. First, use the 80mm brass gauge to verify that the gemstone matches the setting you have selected. If you chose a snap-setting for the gemstone, you will snap the gemstone into the setting by placing the stone tabledown on a flat surface and pressing the setting onto it squarely until it snaps into place (stone setting pliers are not required). If you chose a pre-notched or basket setting, place the gemstone in the setting, seated as squarely as possible, with the prongs positioned where you want them to align on the girdle of the stone. Use the 80-millimeter brass gauge to measure the dimensions of gemstones, settings, and other materials. The gauge has two different scales of measurement. The top scale measures in inches; the bottom scale measures in millimeters. (Most commonly, gemstones and jewelry are described in terms of millimeters.) To use the brass gauge, hold it in your right hand with the readable scales facing toward you. Place your thumb on the slide button, which is located at 34mm on the scale. Push the slide to the left until the jaws open far enough for the item to be measured to fit between the jaws. Pull the slide back to the right. Measure accordingly. Select the first prong that you will tighten, then place the grooved [shorter] jaw of the stone setting plier onto the very tip of that prong. Make sure that the opposite [long] jaw rests against a solid part of the setting rather than against any part of the gemstone. Your goal is to apply pressure onto two opposing parts of the setting; you do NOT want to squeeze the stone itself between the jaws. Using the Vernier Scale on the Brass Gauge The groove in the shorter jaw prevents bending the prong as you bend it over the girdle of the stone. Keep the grooved jaw parallel to the long axis of the prong as you gently tighten; otherwise, you may twist or bend the prong sideways. There are ten lines on the vernier scale. Each line on the vernier scale equals 9/10 of one millimeter. Thus the last [tenth] line on the vernier scale lines up perfect with the 9mm line on the main millimeter scale directly above it, since 9/10 * 10 increments = 9 mm. After you have tightened the first prong, tighten the prong directly opposite it, much as you might tighten the lug nuts on a car s wheel. Apply identical, gentle pressure with each successive prong. Repeat this procedure until each prong is positioned in identical fashion, with the stone still level in the setting. The first [zero] line on the vernier scale is called the origin mark. If your stone is still loose in its setting refer to the prong pusher and burnisher tools. The vernier scale is located on the bottom frame rail of the brass gauge. The vernier scale enables you to interpret measurements out to one-tenth of a millimeter. To read a vernier, measure an object. The position of the origin mark gives the gross measurement in whole millimeters. For example, if the origin mark falls between the fifth and sixth millimeter lines on the main scale, we know that the object is at least 5.0 mm wide, but less than 6.0 millimeters. Now examine the lines on the vernier scale. (A loupe or magnifying visor helps greatly.) Decide which line on the vernier scales aligns most perfectly with a line on the main scale just above it. That vernier line equals the number of 1/10 millimeters that must be added to the object s gross measurement to give its final measurement. To continue our example, if the fourth vernier mark exactly aligns with a main scale mark directly above it, the object is 5.4mm wide. Use stone setting pliers to tig hten prongs once the stone is level. Keep the grooved jaw parallel to the long axis of the prong as you tighten. Use the brass gauge to measure the dimensions of your findings. Page 5 Use the brass gauge to measure the dimensions of your gemstones. Page 6
Using the Prong Lifter Using the Tweezers The prong lifter has a specific purpose pertinent to the jewelry bench: to successfully lift the prongs of a setting so that the gemstone can be removed without damaging it. Because prongs and settings come in a variety of shapes and sizes, the prong lifter has several grooves, each one a different size. Experienced jewelers or gemologists use tweezers in a wide variety of applications. Tweezers ensure a good grip on the stone or jewelry piece, making it easier to manipulate, repair, or examine. They also prevent fingerprints from getting on the stone or the setting. To use the prong lifter, match the appropriate groove to the prong to be lifted. Being careful not to touch the gemstone, place the sharp beveled edge of the lifter under the prong. Keeping the prong lifter aligned with the prong, lift the prong lifter away from your body so that the tool gains mechanical leverage against the setting without putting pressure directly on the stone. Lift the prong to the point that the stone can be removed, then repeat process on each prong until the stone comes free. Warning: if used inappropriately, this tool can scratch and harm any stone. Be cautious while using this tool. Using the Prong Pusher The prong pusher is another tool with very specific application. This tool is used in the opposite way the prong lifter is used. Prong pushers do exactly what the name implies. It allows the user to close the prongs around a stone in a setting. This tools can be used along with the stone setting pliers. GENTLE is the key to using the prong pusher. Used gently and carefully, this tool helps the user to secure a gemstone into its setting or finish the job after using the stone setting pliers. First, use the 80mm brass gauge to verify that the gemstone matches the setting you have selected for it. Second, place the setting into the ring clamp to secure it. When using a pre-notched or basket setting, place the gemstone in the setting, seated as squarely as possible. With the prongs positioned where you want them to align on the girdle of the stone proceed to use the stone setting pliers to initially close the prongs on your setting. Once you have concluded using the stone setting pliers proceed with the prong pusher to secure those prong even further. Place the tool in the palm of your hand with the metal tip between your index finger and thumb. Close your hand around the tool making sure your thumb is close to the end of the metal tip. While holding the ring clamp in the opposite hand as the prong pusher gently put force on the metal prong securing the stone into place. Proceed around the setting and secure the other three prongs in sequential order. When using the prong lifter, be sure to match the appropriate groove to the prong that will be lifted. To review our complete line of tools, visit us on-line at www.jtv.com or call us toll-free and speak to one of our customer service representatives at (800) 581-3002. Page 7 Use this tool by itself or to close prongs in a pre-notched or baste setting in concert with the stone setting pliers. Page 8
Using the Burnisher Items that Complement the Castings Kit The Castings Tool Kit was designed as a component of a set of Mix-and-Match items: The burnisher tool is a precision tool used mainly for bezel set castings. An example would be placing a cabochon into a bezel casting or a gemstone in a back-set bezel casting. This tool can be used for multiple functions. It can benefit you by burnishing the metal around a cab or by cleaning excess metal out of a back set bezel casting so your gemstone can fit better inside the casting. Being CAREFUL is the key to using this tool. The metal tip is VERY sharp so be extremely careful. Keep this tool out of the reach of children! First, use the 80mm brass gauge to verify that the gemstone matches the setting you have selected for it. Lets focus on setting a cab into a bezel. Once the stone is put inside the bezel and the metal has been manipulated to cover the selected area, rub the burnisher around the rim of the bezel casting to better form the metal around the cabochon. This performs two necessary functions. One is to smooth the metal out for a more refined finish and finally securing the stone into the casting. Moderate pressure maybe needed. See pictures below for a visual representation. MLP41 GV32 GV16 GV9 TRAY2A TRAY3A MLP765 These seven items mentioned above can be configured in a variety of ways to make them easier to transport, display or store. The examples above are all correct methods when using the burnisher tool. Page 9 Page 10
Jewelers Files Using the Jewelers Files Continued from the previous page prong you will not have enough metal to bend over the stone to secure it. Step Three: Use the Three Square File to cut a set in the prongs. If your stone has a thicker Girdle you may want to consider using the Round File to enlarge the opening for a larger girdle. Step Four: Check to see that your seats are level by putting the stone into the head. This is a great way to see if your seats are nice and level. Step Five: Once you have a level seat for the stone, use the prong pusher tool to push the prongs over the stone to secure it in the setting. Be sure to be careful when attempting this as it can scratch the stone and/or setting if the tool slips off the prong. Step Six: After setting your stone you can use your Equaling File or Barrette File to dress up the prongs and are also good choices for removing excess metal from the top of the prongs. This is not always a needed step, the prongs may already be a proper size. Step Seven: Finally you want to contour the prongs. This can be accomplished using your Barrette File. A nice rounded prong is the most common finished style used in modern setting designs. Files that are included Barrette File Square File Three Square File Round File Equaling File Using the Jewelers Files These jewelers files have many different uses, but for our purposes we will be cutting seats into a setting and contouring prongs for the setting of gemstones into a finding. While you are acclimating yourself to the file set you may want to practice on a setting that is not as important to you. Hone your skills before moving on to your first project. Mark the Prongs Cut the Seat into the Prongs Make Sure Seat is Level Using the Jewelers Files Follow the below instructions to properly set a gemstone into a setting. Step One: Mark the prongs in order to file level cuts for a level set stone. Step Two: Use the Equaling File to remove metal from the prongs so we can create a seat for the stone. In most cases 50% of a prong should be removed. You do not want the prong so thin that it breaks when bent over the stone, just enough metal removed so the prong can bend. Also, if you remove to much of a Dress the Prongs Contour Prongs Continued on the next page Page 11 Page 12