Applied Mechanics and Materials Online: 2013-02-13 ISSN: 1662-7482, Vols. 295-298, pp 403-407 doi:10.4028/www.scientific.net/amm.295-298.403 2013 Trans Tech Publications, Switzerland Green Regeneration of Hemp Fiber Ya Li 1, a, Dali Ma 2,b 1 Design of art, Art and clothing college, Tianjin Polytechnic University, No. 399 Penn west water way an extension cord, Xi Qing District, Tianjin 300387,China 2 Art and clothing college, Tianjin Polytechnic University, No. 399 Penn west water way an extension cord, Xi Qing District, Tianjin 300387,China a lyjuice@126.com, b madlhom@126.com, Key Words: Hemp Fiber, Low-carbon Innovation, Green Regeneration, Design Concept Abstract: Application of hemp fiber to low-carbon design can realize conceptual innovation. This article takes low-carbon clothing as development objective, and excavates and develops its huge competitive advantages on the low-carbon clothing application aspect through studying the practical applicability of hemp fiber. Starting from green regeneration of hemp fiber, the designers would play their design creativity on the basis of visual effect, tactile effect, integral feeling and other aspects, and endow the hemp fabric more design philosophy and flexile technique of expression applying the design skills and the green concept. Introduction Since the end of last century when the concept of environment friendly clothing was put forward, many clothing brands with superior consciousness have tried to benefit from environment friendly concept, but they were restricted by the development technical level and cost of the environment friendly materials. As an environment friendly textile raw material which is free of environmental pollution, healthy and antibacterial and can be reused, the hemp fiber is emerged as the times require. When it comes into people s visual field, attention and in-depth knowledge to it have aroused experts great interest. In addition to its environmental protection feature, the hemp fiber consumes carbon in the whole consumption cycle obviously less than common textile materials. Study shows that, the low-carbon feature of hemp fiber is presented in its whole life course, including production, processing, using, abandonment, degradation, etc. Therefore, when equivalent utility is created, relatively high low-carbon effect is made. Thus, the low-carbon concept is expanded in the clothing field by using materials having less carbon emission in the process of using while having the same effect. It is defined in this article as equivalent low-carbon material. Knowledge about Equivalent Low-carbon Material Relevant research shows that, a Dacron pants with lifetime of two years consumes energy of 117 times of its weight during its lifetime. Its carbon emission is obviously higher than cotton, linen fiber and other natural fiber products. That is to say that, under the same effect, cotton and linen fiber fabric consumes less energy and generates less pollution than the synthetic fiber fabric. Different natural fibers have obvious differences. According to a study of the Production Research Institution of the Cambridge University, a purified cotton T-shirt discharges carbon dioxide of 28 times of its weight during its lifetime. And a study of the University of Melbourne shows that, All rights reserved. No part of contents of this paper may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without the written permission of Trans Tech Publications, www.ttp.net. (#69686076, Pennsylvania State University, University Park, USA-12/09/16,00:24:47)
404 Progress in Environmental Protection and Processing of Resource impact of hemp cloth to ecology is 50% less than the cotton fabric. Apparently, cloth made of hemp fiber is more environment friendly than cotton cloth, namely, it has higher equivalent low-carbon feature. Advantages of Hemp Fiber The hemp fiber cannot be popularized to apply only for its low-carbon feature. Study shows that, comparing with other natural fibers, the hemp fiber has many other advantages. See information below for basic compare between hemp and other hemp fibers: From the planting experience, the hemp crop can avoid insect pest without applying any chemical pesticide in the process of planting and growing. It won t cause land pollution. The planting-harvest period for hemp fiber is short, but the benefit is high. Under the same conditions, harvest of hemp is 2~3 times higher than cotton. In order to improve the usability of hemp, Britain, France, Canada and other countries have began to popularize to plant a new low-anesthesia-content hemp (content of tetrahydrocannabinol <0.3%). The pure hemp cloth made of it is unique in style and has good quality, so it is a powerful competitor of flax fiber. Once the usability of hemp is confirmed, it will be the first choice among the fiber materials. From the functional aspect, the hemp fiber is the softest one among various fibers. Its degree of fineness is 1/3 of ramie and is almost the same with the cotton fiber. Therefore, well processed hemp fiber can make high count yarn. The shape of hemp fiber is not as sharp as the ramie and flax, so its products won t cause itchy and rough feeling, and will be very soft and comfortable. Through comparing the scanning electron micrographs of four kinds of fibers (hemp, ramie, flax and jute), we have found that, the surface and inner structure of hemp fiber also have obvious differences with other fibers. Its threadlike cavity in the middle connects with numerous fissures and small holes distributed on the fiber surface. Therefore, excellent capillary effect is produced. The high degree of crystallinity of hemp fiber impacts absorption of water molecule. Therefore, in high relative humidity, it will be more comfortable to wear clothes made of hemp because the moisture sorption equilibrium resurgence of hemp is faster than other bast fiber fabrics. The hemp fiber is hollow, so it is rich in oxygen at ordinary times, therefore, the anaerobic bacteria cannot exist. In the tests of various bast fibers resisting to the Aspergillus flavus and the Wan s Penicillium, the mildew resistance of hemp and jute is obviously higher than the ramie and flax. The hemp fiber contains a cannabinoid classified amorphous arborescence substance, which can sterilize, stop pain, etc. Relevant study shows that, hemp fiber contains over ten trace elements, which are good to people s healthy. In addition, according to the test result of the National Institute of Physics, hemp can generally screen over 95% ultraviolet rays, while common clothes can only resist 30~90% ultraviolet rays. Under the current conditions of ozone holes expanding, we can say that the appearance of the hemp fabrics is good news. Development Mode of Hemp Fiber For a long time, there is a common dead zone in developing and utilizing the environmental protection fibers, namely, valuing the environmental protection functions, while ignoring the aesthetic effect. This article tries to contain both of them in developing and utilizing the hemp fiber, thus to increase its practical applicability and market value. The specific approach is to conduct artistic reproduction to the hemp fiber.
Applied Mechanics and Materials Vols. 295-298 405 (I) Concept of Artistic Reproduction of Shell Fabric Artistic reproduction of shell fabric is second design to artistic effect of shell fabric. It is opposite to development design of shell fabric. Level of awareness and ability for use of the costume designer to fiber materials are key subjective factors impacting artistic reproduction. They decide the expression of artistic effect of the reproduction of shell fabric. Therefore, it must be familiar with the feathers of material to conduct artistic reproduction to shell fabric, including the inner functions and the external styles, such as drapability, firm and soft phase, elasticity, thickness, surface texture, stretching feature, etc. (II) Necessity for Artistic Reproduction in Application of Hemp Fiber If the hemp fiber is only used for environmental protection and low carbon, it may not obtain the expected market efficiency, because the apparel consumption today is oriented by popular fashion. Consumers value sense of beauty and design creativity. Therefore, while guarantee good comfort, function and safety, enhancement of visual effect is very necessary to realize the market efficiency. Artistic reproduction can create bigger space of expression for hemp fabric, and designers can fully display their imagination, and thus the hemp clothes will become fashion with strong artistic appeal and popular features and be favored by more consumers. Methods for Artistic Reproduction of Hemp Fiber Fashion styling and shell fabric art are mutually influenced and compensated. The sense of beauty generated in their combination is a critical link in costume design. In design, if adopt different artistic reproduction method for the same costume style, the final artistic effect will be entirely different. See the paragraphs below for several artistic reproduction methods appropriate for hemp shell fabric: (I) Texture Method Artistic reproduction for shell fabric is the first element in the second design of clothing materials. There are different expression methods for different shell fabrics. Therefore, we must be familiar with their features to display our skills accordingly and change the fashion style through changing the expression method of shell fabric to innovate. In the second design of hemp fiber, the design concept can be optimized adopting alkali mercerization or liquid ammonia finish, which is easily to general folds or shrink. We also can change the fashion style adopting the following methods for reproducing texture of shell fabric. 1. Split Joint: Multi-element association for shell fabric is to joint different shell fabrics with the hemp fiber and conduct artistic reproduction to the shell fabric. There isn t fixed rules for this method, but it emphasizes the harmony between the shell fabrics very much in order to achieve the artistic effect of uniformity in changes. Take combination of knitted and tatted fabric as an example. The inherent nature of reproduction of the knitted shell fabric is commonly used by designers, such as the synthesis of knitted and tatted fabrics appeared on the show fields. Combination of waste knitted fabric and hemp fiber can embody different taste and satisfy with the low-carbon environmental protection concept. In the meanwhile, the local combination can be combined with the combination of knitted and tatted shell fabrics in the center. Combination of local (front, collar, cuff, pocket, slack bottom, etc.) knitted fiber with hemp fiber can enhance the profile sense for the cloth. Combination of central (chest, waist, back, legs, etc.) knitted fiber with hemp fiber can directly emphasize the individuality features.
406 Progress in Environmental Protection and Processing of Resource 2. Overlying: the well-known fashion designer Valentino Garavani is pioneering the use of fabrics with different properties, and causes a sensation due to its artistic effect. Mixing with hemp shall determine the master-slave relation, or coordinating relation of fabrics, which will influence the overall effect of clothing. The hemp is relatively stiff and smooth, therefore, it shall be mixed with the relatively soft fabrics under the master-slave relation, or coordinating relation. Mixing with shear or opaque fabrics, with or without gloss shall also take account of the master-slave relation, or coordinating relation. Overlying with different fabrics may highlight the tenet of creative design for the clothes. 3. Embroidery: cross-stitch technique is used in the hemp to design the regular geometrical pattern to change the original feeling of hemp, sometimes, it may have a feeling of pure and simple national handicraft. 4. Gathering: dimensional clipping method is used to cover, wrap or change the dart made of hemp on the model, to display fashion design. The gathering of hemp clothing may manifest the charm of hemp fabric, and create abundant stereoscopic impression, so as to reacquaint the original simple pattern from the perspective of vision. 5. Hollowing: hollow-out in hemp fiber means digging out, hollow-out knitting or drawing out some longitudes or latitude lines of fabric. Hollow-out hemp fiber can break the overall depressing sense, and create a clear and lively style, so the spatial sense of the cloth will be stronger. (II) Color effect In addition to being wrapped up by part gum, its tiny structure is compact and gloss is poor, thus the hemp is difficult in stock dyeing and even in level dyeing. The enzyme treatment to modify dyeing properties in foreign countries and the cation modification in the country can increase the fuel availability and obtain bright-colored and solid colors. Hemp has poor refractivity and relatively steady color, brightness and purity of visual effect is close to the true color or slightly lower, with a feeling of honesty and simplicity. Hemp regeneration requires the perfect combination of shape and color, as well as the coordination of fabric and overall color of clothing. Thus, color accent and color harmony of hemp regeneration shall be applied in use of colors. 1. Color accent: accentuate the color of a certain part in hemp clothing to recover the plainness of overall clothing colors, and lead the vision of the consumers to the accentuated part, so as to play a role of color accent and increase in respect of overall effects of the clothing. 2. Color harmony: area proportion of colors in hemp clothing will impact the harmony of clothing color directly, and a command of scale on area proportion of clothing colors is the key to the color matching. For instance, two hemp cloth of different colors (red and green) with equal area will produce centrifugal effect when matching, and have a feeling of disharmony. In general, area ratio of colors of 2:3, 3:5 or 5:8 may have a feeling of harmony, and the color vision of clothing will show a sense of harmony and rhythm. Conclusion 1. Along with the trend of low carbon of apparel fabric, the emerged hemp regeneration technology becomes an indispensable link to modern fashion design. Artistic regeneration of hemp has changed the layers and style of simple clothing form, to create a special costume and lead the trend of new low-carbon times. 2. Artistic regeneration of hemp can play a role in strengthening, reminding and directing the eyes in clothes. Fashion designer who applies regeneration of apparel fabric may yield twice the result with half the effort, and enhance the art value of fashion design in pursuit of environment-friendly clothes.
Applied Mechanics and Materials Vols. 295-298 407 3. One of major features for fashion design is its originality. Hemp, as a carrier to show the personality of fashion design and materialized form of appearance design, has broad space for development. Furthermore, the hemp has strengthened the decorative features of clothes whatever simple, retro and countryside and other design styles, it is not only a decoration, but also reflects the modern technological level. Acknowledgments With the fulfillment of this thesis, I would like to express my gratitude to many people who have given me tremendous support and encouragement. First of all, I am indebted to Professor Ma Dali, my supervisor, who has spent her precise time discussing with me the questions involved in my thesis, provided a lot of constructive advice to my writing. I have benefited greatly from her during the writing process. I am equally grateful to Professor Wang Xiaoyun, Professor Shan Yufu, Professor Wang Yuxiu in the Art and clothing college of Tianjin Polytechnic University. Their valuable guidance has a profound impact on the improvement of this paper. At last but not least, I would like to acknowledge my family and friends. Without their generous support and love, I would never have completed my present work. Reference [1] Yin Xianggang, Hua Yunkai, Zhu Ruoying, Present State and Development of Hemp Processing Technology, Journal of Tianjin Polytechnic University, 2003, 22(1). (In Chinese) [2] Zeng Ying, Low-Carbon Tide for Clothing, China Fiber Inspection, 2010(6) (In Chinese) [3] Liu Dayong, Discussion on Liu an Hemp Fiber and Its Development, Fiber Panorama, 2011(7) I, 78-81. (In Chinese) [4] Yang Hongsui, Zhang Yuanming, Hemp: Prospect and Research State in Textile Applications, Journal of Textile Research, Volume 20, Number 4, 62 (258) -64 (260). (In Chinese) [5] Liang Huie, Recreation of Clothing Materials, Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2008.12. (In Chinese) [6] Wang Wei, Secondary Design and Application Research for Waste Clothing Fabrics, Popular Literature, 2011 (16). (In Chinese) [7] Sun Xiaoyin, Guan Yingting, Wen Guiqing, Zhu Baoyu, Study on the Characteristics of Hemp Fibers and 1st Applications, Journal of Textile Research, 2001, 22 (4). (In Chinese) [8] Li Dingyi, The Study of Comfortable about Clothing Materials of Hemp, Master s Thesis of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. (In Chinese) [9] Wang Zhipei, Wei Xianyuan, Influence of Materials on Cloth Design, Dajiang Weekly 2011 (2). (In Chinese) [10] Yang Xu, Artistic Performance of Materials in Fashion Design, Graduation Thesis for Art & Design Specialty of Tianjin Polytechnic University. (In Chinese)