Cleaning waterproof clothing Most people are already aware that todayís waterproof clothing usually consists of an inner membrane or coating (that actually provides the waterproofing), and a textile outer layer normally treated with a so called 'DWR' finish we know as the repellent finish. Confusion seems to arise, however, when it comes to how such an article should be cleaned. - In these garments we find a lot of modern technology:- - The hydrophilic, breatheable coating or PTFE membrane. - The textile itself usually either polyester or nylon, possibly in micro fibre form, non of which were available before the 1940`s. - The `DWR` usually (but not always!) a fluorocarbon polymer, again not available till the 1950`s. - The zips and fasteners. - The garments fundamental design. So why does everybody want to wash this 21st century garment with soap, a product that has been available from the 5th century, especially when the brand leading membrane manufacturer (Gore-Tex) recommends using a detergent? It would seem that somewhere along the line somebody has commented that their DWR finishes can be damaged by detergents, so the only alternative would seem to be soap, so off everybody went. If soap is so good why is there a synthetic detergent industry, and why is soap virtually never used by the textile industry? A probable reason is the understanding of what constitutes a detergent. According to the chemical industry a detergent is a complex mixture of surfactants, builders, alkalis, bleaches, white dyes, softeners, enzymes and fragrances in short what we would refer to as washing powder. Soap is made by reacting fatty acids (usually from animal fat) with caustic alkali, the so called saponification reaction, to produce a surface active agent (surfactant) which consists of a hydrophilic head (water loving) and a hydrophobic tail (water hating). It functions as a washing aid by providing a bridge between the dirt and the water. Modern surfactants are made from feed stock from the oil industry to produce structures which consist of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail. They function in exactly the same way as soap, providing a bridge between the dirt and the water. Because of the vast choice of starting materials and modern chemical techniques, the properties of these surfactants can literally be designed according to individual requirements, unlike soap where what you get is soap! 1 / 7
Going back to the DWR finish, current technology means that this is usually a fluorocarbon polymer applied to the textile by the fabric finisher under optimum conditions. There are four main contributors that can result in a lack of performance after domestic washing:- - Abrasion. - Lack of drying temperature. (some more modern polymers overcome this with a so called Line Air Dry behaviour) - Retained washing aid. - Alkaline washing conditions. Retained washing aid is hydrophilic so it interferes with the water-shedding performance of the garment. This is usually due to the washing aid containing non-ionic surfactants which are difficult to remove, and which demonstrate a phenomena known as `cloud point`. All non-ionic detergents have a cloud point at which they cease to be soluble in water; above this temperature no amount of rinsing will remove them from the article. Unfortunately cloud point is also directly related to foaming so what we find in washing powders is high amounts of low cloud point non-ionic surfactant, in combination with alkali, exactly what we donít want. So what we have done is to formulate a washing aid, which generates little foam, of neutral ph value, that can be easily rinsed away. With the correct choice of modern surfactants we have therefore created a product suitable for washing our high tech waterproofs that not only does not interfere with the DWR, but can also be used in hard water areas without scum formation, unlike SOAP. Which areas of the UK have hard water? Generally speaking, hard water is present in 60% of the land mass affecting around 80% of the population (especially in the eastern, central and southern areas of England) and to varying degrees in the rest of the UK. The water for some Northern cities is supplied from naturally soft water reservoirs in Wales and the Lake District. In Scotland and Northern Ireland, various levels of hardness occur. So if we take two samples of distilled water and two of hard tap water and place them in clear containers they look exactly the same. Pour one of these ìpure soapsî into one each of the distilled and tap water containers and you notice the cloudiness appearing in the hard water sample, while the distilled water remains clear. This is caused by the high alkalinity of the soap reacting with the hard water which leaves this scum or bloom as it is called on the washed garment. Now repeat the process taking our Anti-bac cleaner which is a specially formulated 21st century detergent and notice the difference. No cloudiness as both containers remain clear. 2 / 7
WHY AND HOW TO CARE FOR LEATHER LEATHER ORIGINS AND USES We are all familiar with leather and its origins, how together with wood it formed the basis of much ancient technology. Leather, due to its excellent abrasion and wind resistance, found a use in rugged occupations. The image of a cowboy in leather chaps gave way to the leather-jacketed and leather-helmeted aviator. When motorcycles were invented, some riders took to wearing heavy leather jackets to protect from grazing and wind blast; some also wear chaps or full leather trousers to protect the lower body. Many sports still use leather to help in playing the game or protecting players: due to its flexible nature it can be formed and flexed for the occasion. Today, most leather is made of cow hides, but many exceptions exist. Lamb, pig and deer skin are used for soft leather in more expensive apparels. Kangaroo leather is used to make items which need to be strong but flexible, such as motorcycle gloves. Kangaroo leather is favoured by motorcyclists specifically because of its lighter weight and higher abrasion resistance compared to cowhide. LEATHER STRUCTURE Before we can care for leather successfully we firstly have to understand its structure and what it actually consists of. Close investigation reveals it as a naturally ìwovenî material consisting of 76% protein, 14% water and 10% fat. Below the surface grain, the protein layer of stabilised collagen is arranged in a spaghetti type structure which gives the leather its strength, flexibility and durability. This under layer is more absorbent than the surface and benefits from regular conditioning and cleaning. Neglect allows the entry of dirt and results in abrasion cracking and ultimately breaking down the leather. Cared for leather goods can remain fully functional and in good condition for many years. Converting this hide at a tannery, regularly monitoring its ph and transforming it into usable finished leather can take in excess of two weeks of processing. At the end of this time the finished leather is usually given a series of finishing treatments including a final treatment of fluorocarbon to aid ultimate water repellency. TANNING PROCESSES 3 / 7
Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin (hence the name "tanning") and other ingredients found in vegetable matter, tree bark, and other such sources. It is supple, usually brown in colour, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the original colour of the leather. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolour, and if left to soak and then dry it will shrink and become less supple and harder. Alum-tanned leather is tanned using aluminium salts mixed with a variety of binders and protein sources, such as flour, egg yolk, etc. Purists argue that alum-tanned leather is technically "tawed" and not tanned, as the resulting material will rot in water. Very light shades of leather are possible using this process, but the resulting material is not as supple as vegetable-tanned leather. Rawhide is made by scraping the skin thin, soaking it in lime, and then stretching it while it dries. Like alum-tanning, rawhide is not technically "leather", but is usually lumped in with the other forms. Rawhide is stiffer and more brittle than other forms of leather, and is primarily used in drum heads where it does not need to flex significantly; it is also cut up into cords for use in lacing or stitching. Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulphate and other salts of chromium. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not discolour or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. More unusual colours are possible using chrome tanning. LEATHER TYPES Leather (usually vegetable-tanned leather) can be oiled or waxed to improve its water resistance. This supplements the natural oils remaining in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent treatment of leather keeps it soft and supple and improves its lifespan dramatically. However for leather uses like in walking boots where the over softening of leather is detrimental to their ultimate performance oils are not recommended but specialist waxes are preferred. Full-Grain leather is made from the finest raw material of clean natural hides which have not been sanded to remove imperfections, only the hair has been removed. The grain remains in its natural state which will allow the best fibre strength, resulting in greater durability. The natural grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort and will wear better than other leather. Rather than wearing out, it will develop a natural "Patina" and grow more beautiful over time. The finest furniture, and footwear, are made from Full Grain leather. Corrected-Grain Leather Corrected Leather is rough on one side and smooth on the other. The smooth side is the side where the hair and natural grain used to be. These hides, which are made from inferior quality raw materials, have all of the natural grain sanded off, and an artificial grain applied. Top grain leather generally must be heavily painted to cover up the sanding and 4 / 7
stamping process. Suede is an interior split of the hide and is rough on both sides. Suede is less durable than top-grain but is cheaper because many pieces of suede can be split from a single thickness of hide, whereas only one piece of top-grain can be made. However, manufacturers use a variety of techniques to make suede appear to be full-grain. For example, in one process, glue is mixed with one side of the suede, which is then pressed through rollers; these flatten and even out one side of the material, giving it the smooth appearance of full-grain. Cattle hide leather buffed on the grain side to give a velvety surface is known as Nubuck leather and should be treated in the same way as Suede. In creating this finish lower grades of hide can be used to keep pricing competitive against the use of full grain leather. There are two other descriptions of leather more commonly used in speciality products, such as briefcases, wallets, and luggage. Belting leather is full grain leather that was originally used in driving pulley belts and other machinery. It is often found on the surface of briefcases, portfolios, and wallets, and can be identified by its thick, firm feel and smooth finish. Belting leather is the only kind of leather used in luxury products that can retain its shape without the need for a separate frame; it is generally a heavy weight of full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather. Nappa leather, is extremely soft and supple, and is commonly found in high quality car upholstery, wallets, toiletry kits, and other personal leather goods. CLEANING AND CONDITIONING After using smooth leather items rinse or wipe over with a damp cloth then allow to dry naturally. Speciality light coloured leathers as used in car seats should be vacuumed first to remove dust prior to wiping over. Failure to do this, results in the dust being absorbed into the stitching and turning it an unsightly grey colour. Ideally you should store leather items at room temperature in a well ventilated room. High temperatures dry out leather causing cracking and low temperatures encourage the growth of mildew. Mould and mildew thrive in warm, dark, damp conditions. Penetrating deep into the leather they can weaken the fibres causing permanent damage. These mould spores will migrate to other items if stored together. Wipe over and treat with our silver based anti-bacterial deodorising spray to prevent further contamination. It is impossible to repair damage already done but treatment will cause the spores to lie dormant. Soft leather boot linings can be conditioned by light use of the our Smooth Leather Conditioner. Spray it into the leather to help keep it supple and from absorbing the salt produced by sweating which causes drying out and cracking. 5 / 7
WET LEATHER CARE Always prevent leather becoming saturated by using the correct conditioning treatments from new. Soft leather or leathers that need to remain supple should be initially treated with our Conditioning or Waterproofing spray but leathers used in a more testing environment like those used in walking boots should be treated with our Leather Conditioning Cream. Should leather become accidentally saturated it could easily stretch and become weakened, use the conditioning treatment on the leather before it becomes fully dry and then allow it to continue drying naturally. Apply a further light treatment to the leather when it is fully dry. Dirt should be removed from leather by using one of our spray cleaners or with our Leather and Saddle Soap and then rinse thoroughly to ensure removal of any damaging impurities including the salts found in sweat. After cleaning apply a conditioner to moisturise the leather and create a water repellent surface. This will then protect against dirt, salts and water penetrating the pores of the leather and damaging it. A light application of Leather Conditioner is also beneficial to new leather ensuring its longevity and comfort in use. DRY LEATHER CARE Although most people consider that leather should be preserved by creating a barrier against water on its surface, hot conditions are equally as threatening to its long term performance. The natural fibres of leather will break down with the passage of time. Acidic leathers are particularly vulnerable to a type of rot that is aggravated by high temperatures and relative humidities, and is irreversible. This rot is caused by prolonged storage or exposure to high relative humidity, environmental pollution, and high temperature. In particular, it occurs at ph values of 4.2 to 4.5. Sulphur dioxide converts to sulphuric acid which forms hydrogen peroxide. The peroxide combines with residual tannins in the leather to oxidize proteins, creating ammonium sulphate and ammonium bisulphate. This manifests itself as a characteristic powdering of the leather's surface, along with structural weakness through loss, delamination, and a possibly felt-like consistency. Exposure to long periods of low relative humidities (below 40%) can cause leather to become desiccated, irreversibly changing the fibrous structure of the leather. We have various treatments available to help prevent this such as cleaners, conditioners and waterproofers. These are absorbed into the structure of the leather item and need to be applied correctly so as not to leave a sticky film of active chemicals as this would attract stains. Use our Leather and Saddle Soap to keep leather clean and supple and then apply a conditioner to maintain this effect. Then use one of our Conditioning products to create an ideal environment for the leather to resist deterioration in this environment. DEODORISERS 6 / 7
Foot odour has always been associated with all sports activities but actually affects all footwear use. Even open toed leather sandals can give rise to smells when constructed together with man made soles. Deodorisers generally fall into two categories, those that attempt to mask the smell with by using a fragrance which are generally useless and those that attack the cause of the smell. Our Deodoriser attacks the smell by using the latest version of a trusted ancient technology to kill bacteria, a heavy metal. For over a thousand years people have used metals such as Mercury (with significant negative side effects) copper, silver etc. to successfully kill bacteria. Even Holy Communion is administered using a silver chalice as it successfully reduces the possibility of spread of disease. Our liquid silver deodoriser is heat activated by body temperature and is safe on skin. Sprayed on cold surfaces the silver lies dormant until coming into contact with body heat. Within 12 hours it has caused the pre-existing bacteria to cease to multiply and thereby cause the colony to die. Bacteria multiply by separating into two at approximately 20 minute intervals and remembering its DNA, it grows to be a clone of itself. Repeating this action over a matter of hours turns a small problem into one of the most talked about negative features of footwear. Spraying regularly with the deodoriser will kill the bacteria and prevent re-infestation. This product can also be safely used in gloves, hats or anywhere that is prone to the growth of bacteria. 7 / 7