Appendix 1: Clothing Patterns

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Two-Seam Gathered Skirt Create a simple two-seam gathered skirt by using the following instructions. 1 Measure the person from her natural waistline to her midcalf. Add 4 inches to that measurement for the waistline casing and hem. You will need: Fabric twice the length of the above measurement. Good fabric choices include 45-inch-wide cotton, cotton-poly blend, muslin, or gingham. A length of 1-inch-wide elastic to fit snugly around the waist. Add 1 inch for overlap. Thread to match the fabric. 2 Cut the fabric in half crosswise. 3 With the right sides facing each other, sew the selvage edges together, forming a tube. Press the seams open. 28

4 To create the waistband, turn down the top edge ¼ inch, press, and stitch. 5 Turn down the top edge again 1¼ inches and sew close to the hemmed edge, leaving a 2-inch opening to insert the elastic. Fasten a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread the elastic through the waistband. 6 Overlap the elastic 1 inch and stitch it together. Stitch the opening in the waistband closed. 7 Turn up the bottom edge of the skirt ¼ inch, press, and stitch. Turn up the bottom edge again, 2 inches, and stitch close to the hemmed edge to form the hemline. The hem can be topstitched, sewn by hand, or stitched with a blind hem if your machine has that option. 8 Finished skirt 29

Simple Apron with Ribbon Ties Create a simple apron by using the following instructions. 1 You will need: 1 yard of 45-inch-wide cotton, cotton-poly blend, muslin, or gingham fabric. 2 to 3 yards (depending on the waist measurement) of 2- to 3-inch-wide grosgrain ribbon. (Satin ribbon can be substituted, but it is not quite as sturdy.) Thread to match the fabric. Straight pins. 2 To form the sides of the apron, turn the selvage edges to the wrong side ¼ inch, press, and stitch in place. Turn up the bottom edge ¼ inch, press, and stitch close to the edge. 3 Turn up the bottom edge again, 2 to 3 inches, and sew close to the hemmed edge to create the hem. 30

4 To gather the top of the apron, sew two rows of basting stitches along the top edge, ¼ inch and 1 2 inch from the edge. With a straight pin, mark the center of the top edge of the apron. Mark the center of the ribbon. Measure out from both sides of the center mark of the ribbon, 9 inches for a small apron or 10 inches for a medium, and mark both sides. 5 With the wrong side of the apron facing the wrong side of the ribbon, match the centers, aligning the 1 2-inch basting stitch to the bottom edge of the ribbon. 6 Carefully pull the basting stitches to gather the apron evenly between the center and outside marks. Stitch the apron to the ribbon, between rows of basting stitches. 7 Fold the ribbon over to encase the gathering stitches, matching the ribbon edges. Stitch close to the ribbon edge, between the sides of the apron. Topstitch the folded edge of the ribbon. Finish the ends of the ribbon with a fabric sealant, or turn the raw ends twice and stitch. 31

Pioneer Shirt Create a pioneer shirt out of a regular white dress shirt. 1 With just a few quick changes, a white dress shirt can appear more like a pioneer shirt. Secondhand stores are great places to purchase shirts. 2 The shirt you use needs to have a two-piece collar a stand and a collar. 3 First, remove the collar from the stand by removing the stitches that hold the collar in place. 32

4 Next, remove the pocket by unpicking the stitches that hold it in place. 5 Finally, pin the open edges of the stand together and stitch them closed. 6 You now have a shirt that resembles a pioneer shirt. 33