A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing larger pieces will need to be taped together before cutting out the fabric. Be advised that this document needs to be printed to it s original scale. Please ensure that the printing options below are not selected. Do Not: Rotate and Center, Fit to Page, Reduce to Fit or adjust the scale of this document. Refer to the scale marker below to ensure that this copy is printed at the correct scale. This PDF pattern is not licensed for commercial use and may not be shared, duplicated or distributed. 2016 Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1 or 25.4mm 1 or 25.4mm

Sewing Directions Dress Tonner Convention 2008 1) Place wrong side of bodice lace overlay over right side of bodice. A light coat of spray adhesive will keep overlay secure as you sew, otherwise stay stitch overlay to bodice along outside raw edges. 2) RST, sew bottom darts in bodice. Press darts toward bodice center. RST sew top darts in bodice. These darts share the same point as the bottom darts. Special attention should be taken while sewing these darts. Press top darts upward toward top of bodice. 3) Cut a strip of fabric 1 wide on the bias, you ll need a strip approx. 24 long. From right side of strip, finish one long edge with an over-lock stitch. RST, sew raw edge of bias strip to top raw edge of bodice, using a 1/4 seam allowance. Stop at neckline and trim away excess strip. Repeat for other side of bodice. Do not trim or notch seam allowance. Fold wrong side of bias strip over seam allowance ensuring seam allowance is not folded. The width of the seam allowance will help to produce a consistent width for the bias trim. Press bias strip as you fold it over. From right side of bodice, secure trim in place by top-stitching through the seam where the bias strip and bodice meet (stitch-in-the-ditch). 4) Mark center point of remaining bias strip with a straight pin or marker. RST, pin raw edge of bias strip to top raw edge of bodice neckline, matching center point of bias strip to center of neckline. Sew raw edge of bias strip to raw edge of neckline, stopping at each side of neckline. As before fold wrong side of bias strip over seam allowance and press. Secure trim in place by stitching-in-the-ditch. 5) From wrong side of bodice, fold raw edges of extending bias strip over approx. 1/4 and press. Fold over-locked edge of bias strip over previously folded raw edge. You are creating the shoulder straps for the dress in this step. The width of the straps should be the same as the width of the bodice trim. Using waxed thread and needle, secure overlapped edge of bias strip in place. Your stitches should not be visible from the right side of the bodice. Place bodice to the side for now. 6) RST matching notches, sew side raw edges of skirt backs to side raw edges of skirt front. Finish seams with an over-lock stitch. 7) RST position and sew top raw edge of skirt to bottom raw edge of bodice. Because the skirt is cut on the bias, you may need to ease the skirt into place. Be careful not to create any puckers. The top edge of skirt should be the same width as the bottom raw edge of the bodice. Finish seam allowance with an over-lock stitch. 8) Finish center back raw edges and bottom raw edges of hem edge, with an over-lock stitch. 9) RST, sew center backs of skirt together, stopping at dot using a ½ seam allowance. Clip one side of seam allowance at dot, stopping at stitch-line. Press seam below clip, open. Press seam allowance above clip to one side. From right side of dress the back opening should have a folded edge on one side and an over-locked edge on the other side. Using markings on pattern pieces as a guide, secure 6 snap sets into place using waxed thread and needle. 10) Fit dress to doll. Pull shoulder straps over shoulders and mark placement for snap sets. The shoulder straps should fit snug over the shoulders and support the bodice in place. 11) Note length of dress to determine the hem allowance for the skirt. Up to ½ hem allowance is included in the dimensions of the pattern. Remove dress from doll. 12) Sew snaps to shoulder straps and to inside of bodice using your placement markings and the markings on pattern pieces as a guide. Turn dress wrong side out. WST, fold bottom hem edge of skirt under approx. ½ depending upon the desired length of dress. Take into consideration that the doll stand will add approx. ½ to the height of the doll. Using waxed thread and needle, secure hem in place using a blind hem stitch. Your stitches should not be visible from the right side of the dress.

13) RST, sew train lining to train along side and bottom raw edges, stopping at dots. The area between the dots will be used to turn the train right side out. Clip corners and trim seam allowance as needed. Pull top of train through opening to turn right side out. 14) Press edges of train smooth and tuck raw edges of opening inside of train sandwiching between both layers. Using waxed thread and needle, close opening using small hidden stitches. 15) RST, fold bow along fold line and sew along outside edges following stitch lines on pattern piece. Stop at dots. Clip corners and trim seam allowance as needed. Turn bow right side out. Press edges smooth, tucking raw edges of opening inside bow. Close opening using small hidden stitches. 16) Using waxed thread and needle, gather center of bow tightly, wrapping thread around center of bow a few times. Secure a pendant to center right side of bow. Attach bow to top front point of train using waxed thread and needle. Using same needle and thread secure a hook to wrong side of train. Secure eye to back of dress where skirt and bodice meet. Fit dress to doll and attach train. www.fletcherpatterncompany.com

Piece Bodice Cut 1 on Fold Cut 1 Overlay on Fold Size TAM Fold Here A Fold Here D Piece Bow Cut 1 on Fold Size TAM Fold Line Stitch Line Grain Line Notch Dot Snap Seam allowance of 1/4 is already included in the dimensions of the pattern. 1/4 seam allowance unless noted otherwise Fold Here E Piece Train Cut 1on Fold Cut 1 Lining on Fold SizeTAM 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1/4 seam allowance unless noted otherwise

B Piece Skirt Front Cut 1 on Folded Bias Size TAM C Piece Skirt Back Cut 2 on Bias Size TAM 1/4 seam allowance unless noted otherwise 1/4 seam allowance unless noted otherwise Fold Here 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

B Please read through the instructions before beginning construction of this garment. Recommended Fabrics Bodice and Skirt Crepe back satins, silks, satins. Bodice Overlay Lace Notions 8ct. 4/0 size snap sets, ½ pendant for bow, hook and eye, matching thread. The following guidelines will help to ensure that you achieve professional results. 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.