How to Use This LillyGiggle Pattern Step 1 - Print this entire packet. Be sure that your printer settings say to NOT scale or reduce/enlarge images. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Please see your printer owner s manual if you need help with this step. Our pages are set up with a 1/2 border (at least) around all pages, so you should be able to print the entire page without anything getting cropped off. Again - PRINT EVERYTHING at 100%. Step 2 - Sort it all out. Our pages are, numbered and sequenced, and keeping them in order is reasonably important. Step 3 - Separate the pattern pages from the tutorial pages. The tutorial pages have the LillyGiggle logo and website at the bottom. The pattern pages have a lighter, thinner blue outline. Step 4 - Cut out the pattern pages. Cut around the light blue, dashed border. Step 5 - Line up the pattern. We use dots at the corners of the pages in order to help you align everything and get it all put together properly. We re also including a diagram below to help out. If you match stuff up and you have a dot that is one color on one half and another color on the other, you ve got them wrong. It should be pretty easy. Step 5 - Tape everything together. Putting it all on one side and then turning it over and taping on the back helps keep everything in place. Be sure to run your tape from edge to edge of the whole pattern so that when you cut everything out, it stays together where it s supposed to. Step 6 - You re ready to get cutting your fabric & get to sewing! PAGE LAYOUT for THIS PROJECT This pattern, tutorial and all imagery and photography is the exclusive property of LillyGiggle and is copyrighted. All rights reserved. Any portion of this pattern or tutorial may not be used, whole or in part, without express written permission. 1 2 3 You may not resell this pattern, tutorial, or any portion thereof. You may make clothing using this pattern, and you may resell those clothes, but you may not resell this pattern. We would appreciate letting the world know that you used a LillyGiggle pattern, but that s entirely up to you and your conscience or lack thereof. 4 5 6 2012-2013 LillyGiggle. All rights reserved. REVISION040112 7 8 9 TUTORIAL PAGE 1
THE SWEET SHOP SKIRT & SKORT Size 12 months -14 years Materials: 1-2 large or larger adult t-shirt for base of skirt (Recycled is best!) (2-3 if making skort option) 2-4 additional t-shirts in varying colors/prints Matching polyester thread Ball point or stretch needle for medium weight fabrics *** If buying off of the bolt Sizes up to 6 years will need ¾ yard for the skirt plus approximately an additional ¼ yard for the ruffles Sizes 7-14 will need 7/8 yard for the skirt plus approximately an additional ¼ yard for the ruffles. The skort option will require another ½ yard of fabric for all sizes. This pattern uses a 3/8 seam allowance unless otherwise stated. TUTORIAL PAGE 2
This is a great pattern to use recycled fabrics! When choosing t-shirts to upcycle be sure to look for fabric in good condition with minimal pilling. However, this pattern is great for t-shirts that have gotten stained or holes because you can just use the rest of the t-shirt. It can also be used to upcycle a variety of different sized t-shirts instead of only large sized ones. You may need a larger one for the base of the skirt but you can use several different sizes and styles for the ruffles. Have fun and experiment. This skirt looks fantastic when you keep the colors tonal (different shades of the same color) or when you mix all the colors up. I love adding pops of stripes or prints with the solids, too. Mixing some woven fabrics in with the knits for the ruffles works well, too just keep in mind that most wovens will fray unless you finish the edges of them. Of course, keeping it ruffle free or adding a fun appliqué works, too. Such a versatile pattern that each one will truly be a one of a kind! The Sweet Shop Skirt can also be made into the Sweet Shop Skort. Tutorial for this option begins on page 13. Special Tips for Sewing with Stretch Knits ~Stretch knit fabrics will not fray so you don t have to finish the inside seams. ~If not using a serger, use a ball point or stretch needle and doublestitch your seams (instructions given in tutorial). You will want to use a looser stitch (stitch length 3) than on a woven because you want the stitches to have some stretch. Use a fresh needle for each garment. ~When sewing a straight seam you want to gently stretch the seam as you sew, especially on knits that roll like jersey and single knits. The stretchier the fabric the more you will want to stretch your seam. ~Be careful not to stretch your fabric while pressing. It is very important not to pull your garment out of shape. ~The hem can be the trickiest part especially if you are working with very stretchy fabric. To keep your hemline from growing you should use a longer stitch. Be sure and steam press well to shrink back in place. ~If you are sewing your stretch knit garment on a serger with differential feed, there is no need to stretch while sewing. ~Spray starch on the knit can make it easier to sew. ~Using a zig zag stitch instead of a double straight stitch is sometimes preferred. You will soon find your own favorite method. TUTORIAL PAGE 3
LilyGiggle patterns are based on the following body measurements. With this pattern, the waist measurement is important. Be sure to choose size based on your child s waist measurement. Pattern Cutting Instructions With this particular pattern, it is important to choose size by waist measurement. Find the measurement that most closely matches your child (go up if in between) and then cut all pattern pieces out in that size but adjusting the length to the age or normal clothing size of the child. For instance, if the waist measurement of your normally sized 18 month child matches that of 3 years on the size chart then cut out all pattern pieces at size 3 years but cut the length of the pieces at 18 months. The diagram below shows how to do this. The length cutting line is indicated by the red arrow. TUTORIAL PAGE 4
Cutting Layout Diagram for using yardage If using fabric off of the bolt instead of a t-shirt refer to the above diagram for cutting. First, lay your fabric out unfolded. Fold only enough to cover one of the skirt and waistband pieces. Place the pieces on the fold and then cut out (figure #1). With the remaining fabric fold up enough to cover the other skirt and waistband pattern piece and cut out (figure #2). Any leftover fabric can be used for ruffles. If you plan to make the skort option then you will fold the fabric for the shorts in half selvedge to selvedge. Place the shorts pattern piece as shown in figure #3 TUTORIAL PAGE 5
Lay Out and Cutting if using a T-shirt: Lay out your t-shirt and then fold it in half. You may now begin cutting 1 ½ - 2 wide strips of fabric from the remaining part of the t-shirt. You want to make them as long as possible but shorter pieces will work, too. Begin with cutting around 9 strips but you may need to make more as you go along depending on how tightly you gather your ruffles and how closely you space them together. You may want to divide up that number between 3 or more tees for a variety of color. Carefully cut as follows ONLY if cutting from a T-Shirt (Use cutting layout diagram on previous page if using yardage): Cut 1 FRONT & BACK SKIRT on fold (this will give you 2} Cut 1 WAISTBAND on fold (this will give you 2) A rare inside peek to my patterns in their rough draft phase! TUTORIAL PAGE 6
Let s Sew the SWEET SHOP SKIRT! 1. Take one of your strips of fabric and center it under the presser foot of your sewing machine. Set the stitch length on your machine to 5 and sew straight down the middle of the strip until you reach the end. Your strip will now look like this. 3. Continue doing this to all of your strips until you have a nice little collection of ruffles. 2. You will have 2 pieces of thread on the ends of your strip. Grab ONE of the threads and gently pull it. This will gather up the strip. Keep pulling until the whole strip is gathered. You may want to do this to each end, gathering towards the center. TIP: If you plan to make several of these I highly recommend investing in a ruffle foot for your sewing machine. It makes this step so much fun! TUTORIAL PAGE 7
4. Lay out one of your skirt pieces with the right side of the fabric facing up. Lay the other skirt piece on top of it with right side of the fabric facing down. Now you will have right sides together. Pin back to front along each side of the skirt. Be sure and place the pins horizontally. This way you do not have to remove them as you sew the side seam but can sew right over them. Just be careful as you do, moving slowly so your sewing machine needle does not come down directly on a pin. 5. Set your stitch length back down to 3 and sew or serge down each side of skirt. *** For extra secure seams when sewing stretch knits on a sewing machine it is recommended that you make a second row of stitching 1/8 from and parallel to the first line of stitching in all of your seams. Remove pins and turn right side out. If you are using a serger you can just zip up the side seams on the serger no need to double stitch. 6. Finish the seam with your preferred method. Remember that you don t have to finish stretch knits because they don t fray. However, for a more finished look you may want to run an overlock or zig zag stitch along the inside edges. Do not use pinking shears on stretch knit. 7. Press your seam towards the back of the skirt. TUTORIAL PAGE 8
Now for the real fun! ***You may want to hem the bottom of the skirt before proceeding. A 1 inch hem allowance has been added. The ruffles will hide the hem so it isn t necessary but without a hem the skirt will be a bit longer (for more details on how to hem see end of tutorial). end of a strip just add a new one to the end of it and keep sewing. 8. Now set your machine back to 3, grab your skirt and one ruffle strip and place it at the bottom of the skirt as shown below. You want part of the ruffle to hang over and hide the edge of the skirt base. 9. Now begin sewing it in place. You will need to gently stretch the skirt as you sew so that the skirt doesn t become too tight and stitches break. Using a zig zag stitch, rather than a straight stitch, will keep more stretch in the skirt, too. When you come to the 10. When you have sewn all of the way around the bottom of the skirt and come back to the beginning of the ruffle strip just begin steering your sewing up above the ruffle forming a new row. TUTORIAL PAGE 9
This picture shows approximately how close you want the ruffle strips to be pretty close. Press the ruffles downward. 11. As you sew on the ruffles, hold them down with your fingers so that the right side of the ruffle you are sewing is folding down the left side of the ruffle beneath. This way you will avoid sewing onto the ruffle underneath. Attaching the Waistband: ***If you want to make the SKORT option skip to page 13 before attaching the waistband. 13. With right sides together pin the ends of the waistband pieces together at the short ends. Sew or serge along each pinned edge. Press seams. 12. When you have sewn 3 or 4 rows all the way around the bottom of the skirt (or as many as you desire)and come to the end of your ruffle strip, steer the stitching into the lower ruffle. TUTORIAL PAGE 10
14. Now turn the waistband right side out and fold it in half, matching up the edges opposite of the fold. 17. Lay out your skirt so that one of the side seams is facing towards you as shown. 15. Press the folded edge down neatly. 18. With right sides together line up one of the waistband side seams with the skirt side seam and pin. 16. Bump your stitch length back up to 5 (or your longest stitch length) and sew (machine-baste) about ¼ seam allowance all the way around the open edge of the waistband. 19. Now find the center front of your skirt and back of your skirt and mark it with a pin or fabric marker/chalk. Do the same to the waistband by finding the center front and back and marking it. TUTORIAL PAGE 11
20. Now line up your markings and pin the center front and back of the waistband to the center front and back of the skirt (right sides together). You will need to pull the skirt through the waistband so you can line it all up easier. Do the same to the other side seam. More detailed photos included in the skort option tutorial for these steps. 22. Remove the basting stitches, if desired, and finish the seam with your preferred method 23. Press neatly. Fold the waistband down halfway and voila! C O N G R A T U L A T I O N S! 21. You will probably notice that your waistband is smaller than the top of the skirt. Don t worry. It is supposed to be! Go find your favorite little lady and show her what you just made for her and watch the smile light up on her face! Great job! Sew or serge the skirt and waistband together at the pinned edge. You will need to stretch the waistband to fit the skirt. Try not to stretch the skirt too much, if at all. TUTORIAL PAGE 12
Let s sew the SWEET SHOP SKORT! 1. Begin by following steps #1-12 of the Sweet Shop Skirt instructions, right up to where you are ready to attach the waistband. On this skirt we chose not to add the ruffles. 3. Place the other shorts piece directly on top of it with the right side of the fabric down (right sides together). Pin both curved edges. 2. Place one of your shorts pieces on a flat surface right side up. 4. Sew or serge along pinned edges. Finish the seam with your preferred method and press. ***I recommend marking each curve with a fabric marker/chalk F or B for Front and Back so that you can easily tell which is which as you move into the next steps. You can tell which is which by looking at the pattern piece. TUTORIAL PAGE 13
5. Bring the seams to the center front and back. 8. Now put the shorts inside of the skirt. Both skirt and shorts should be right side out. 6. Pin the front of the shorts to the back along the crotch line. Be sure and line up the seams neatly. 7. Sew along pinned edge. Press all seams neatly and turn right side out. 9. Find the center front of the skirt and mark it with a pin or fabric marker/chalk. Line up the center front of the skirt with the center front of the shorts. TUTORIAL PAGE 14
10. Do the same to the center back. 12. Set your sewing machine to its longest stitch and sew (machinebaste) all the way around the pinned edge. 11. Hold the center front and center back together and find each side fold of the shorts and mark it. Line the markings up with the side seams of the skirt and pin. Now pin all along this top edge of the skirt and shorts 13. Place the 2 waistband pieces right sides together. Pin the sides and sew along pinned edge. Press seams. TUTORIAL PAGE 15
14. Fold in half. 15. Find center front and back of the skort. It s easier when making the skort because you have the center front and back seams of the shorts as reference. 16. Find the center front of the waistband and mark it. Pin the center front of the waistband to the center front of the skort. Do the same for the center back of each. 17. Now match up the side seams of the waistband and the side seams of the skort. Pin. 18. Time to sew it on! You may notice that the waistband is smaller than the skort. Don t worry. It should be. TUTORIAL PAGE 16
19. Sew or serge the skirt and waistband together all the way around the pinned edge. You will need to stretch the waistband to fit the skirt. Try not to stretch the skirt too much, if at all. I also like to make a second row of stitching 1/8 from the first for a mock coverstitch look. Now press and fold down the waistband. YO U A R E D O N E! Time for finishing! Hem the skirt and shorts by folding the bottom of the fabric to the inside. You can serge the edge first and then fold in 1 and stitch or you can fold ½, press and then fold ½ again and stitch. I really hope that you enjoyed making the Sweet Shop Skirt and Skort. If you have any questions or comments, please email lilygiggle@gmail.com. For Instant Downloads, including Bundle Packs, of more LilyGiggle patterns visit www.lilygiggle.com. Happy Sewing! ~Beth TUTORIAL PAGE 17
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