Preparation of Wood: From Rough to Smooth, Straight and Square. Paul Roberts

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Transcription:

Preparation of Wood: From Rough to Smooth, Straight and Square Paul Roberts

Accurate machining fundamental to quality of woodworking Rough timber-defects flat, square & straight Rough timber cut/planed to size & also to be stable

1. Purpose of the document 2. Quantification of wood requirements 3. Purchasing wood 4. Tools and equipment 5. Rough machining 6. Resawing 7. Final machining 8. Safety considerations 9. Conclusion

WWAP Mentorship scheme Applicable to hand or machine wood preparation More than one way of doing work

2.1 Design plans 2.2 Cut-list 2.3 Wood defects 2.4 Rough dimensioning 2.5 Wastage

Accurate design plans Aesthetics/ergonomics Models and mock-ups

Own plans (metric units-mm) Bought plans (imperial units) Plans hand drawn on computer software (AutoCAD, SketchUp)

Hand drawn plan of Morris chair

Cut-list needed for purchase of wood and its machining in components Excel spreadsheet or design software Preparation of wood in two stages (reflect in cut-list): Rough machining Final Machining

Typical cut-list Item ID Typical Cut-list Part Name Wood Final Dimensions Rough Dimensions Remarks No T W L No T W L A B C ID=Item Identification No=Number of items T=Thickness W=Width L=Length

Defects-harvesting & drying Study wood carefully to overcome defects Major defects and remedial measures

Bow Bow occurs along the length of a board on the face side. If the bow is severe it is best to cut the board into smaller sections before machining

Cup Cup occurs across the face of a board. If lumber is badly cupped, rip it into narrower sections; you will end up with thicker stock after edge-jointing and planing

Twist Lumber with a slight twist will give you fits if not removed prior to cutting joints or gluing panels together. If it is severely twisted, cut lumber into shorter and/or narrower sections for better yield.

Crook Crook is a bow along the edge. You will end up with waste along both edges when ripping it straight and parallel

Study the wood carefully Notes to optimise wood selection Annular ring orientation

Wood movements after first machining due to internal stresses Wood defects (cup, crook, bow etc) Machine eg snipe Wood characteristics

Typical allowances Thickness + 3 mm Width +5-10 mm + saw kerf if ripped Length Remove end splits + 50-100 mm for planer snipe Final Dimensions (mm) Rough dimensions (mm) Part Name Wood No T W L No T W L ΣL Item ID A Front Leg Minger 4 60.0 60.0 630 12 22 65 650 7,800 B Back Leg Minger 4 60.0 60.0 630 12 22 65 650 7,800 C Front Stretcher Minger 2 30.0 171.0 594 3 22 180 630 1,890 D Back Stretcher Minger 2 30.0 100.0 594 3 22 110 630 1,890 E Lower Rail Minger 4 30.0 180.0 614 6 22 190 650 3,900 F Upper Rail Minger 4 30.0 100.0 614 6 22 110 650 3,900 G Side Slat Minger 16 20.0 65.0 208 8 22 70 450 3,600

Allowance for wastage of stock when procuring timber due to errors or defects in planks, grain colour Rule of thumb: Allow about 20-30% extra for wastage

The selection of suitable wood for the project requires a good knowledge about wood, its properties and grain characteristics. The types of timber cuts and the categories relate to the angle of the annular rings compared to the face of the plank.

Select planks at the timber yard yourself rather than simply ordering a required quantity; Inspect planks for problem areas;

Flat-sawn Quarter-sawn Rings 60⁰-90⁰ Rift-sawn Rings 30⁰ to 60⁰ After Ref [5]

Squares; Straight edges; Tools: Vernier callipers and carpenter rule/tape; Marking items (permanent markers, pencils and chalk).

Equipment Planer/thicknesser (hand planes) Circular saw/s Bandsaw

Equipment Selection of correct blades Blade sharpness

Shorter lengths (min 200-300mm) Trim rough ends Inspect wood-id number on ends

Inspect wood before marking No nails, staples, dirt (carpet strips) Badly cupped-rip & reglue Keep marking of items

Decide on the arrangement of the various items from each plank Cross-cut the plank using a suitable saw Mark the ends with the ID number

Gauge wood-straight edge Surface cupped surface first Grain direction-change surfacing direction if necessary after inspection Mark grain direction-my convention

Surface at least 75% of area Thickness of cut-wood type? Depth of cut 0.5-1.0 mm

Measure wood thickness Sort in categories of 1 mm; Sort orientation for the thicknesser;

Start with thickest & machine till all can be processed Thickness to rough thickness While thicknessing can turn the plank over once a plane upper surface achieved Leave the planed stock for several days for initial stresses to relax & wood to acclimatise to ambient moisture content before undertaking the final machining Monitor any movements/deformations

Various approaches Jointer (surfacing table) Portable saw and guide Router and guide Long sled and a table saw Table saw after initial edge

Need for resawing Circular saw or bandsaw A sharp & preferably a coarse (3 tpi) wide blade Tune up & adjust the saw for proper guide clearance, squareness of the blade to the table & use a high blade tension Use suitable guides/fences Cut slowly and do not strain the bandsaw Cut boards 2-3 mm thicker than needed

Veneer 3 mm thick

Thinner cuts than rough machining Sharp blades Check straightness/flatness & resurface/thickness as necessary to final dimensions Edge joining-reference alternate faces

S Z = v x 1000 / n x z v= Feed speed in m/minute n= spindle speed in rpm z= number of knives Control feed speed when surfacing to obtain a fine finish

Do not cut items to final length until just before the fitting & jointing process to ensure a tight fit Cross-cut items accurately to final lengths which is part of the jointing process Jointing should be undertaken as soon as possible after final machining while the stock is still square and flat (final machining in phases?) Depends on wood stability

Use push sticks as necessary Do not look into the thicknesser slot Use sharp blades Wax on jointer/thicknesser surfaces reduce drag forces Care must be taken with the use of gloves which could be worn to obviate splinters and cuts with rough timber. The gloves, if used, should be tight-fitting

Dust protection Splitter for ripping to prevent sawn items from binding on the blade Eye/ear protection Suitable safety shoes, particularly when handling large and heavy planks

Many consider wood preparation to be hard work & boring BUT It provides much reward in: Revealing beautiful grain; Gaining a sense of achievement when overcoming defects and internal stresses in the wood and creating stable components; Providing a great understanding and love of wood and its properties.