The Most Beautiful, Longest-Lasting, High Gloss Shine for Brightwork VARNISH

The Most Beautiful, Longest-Lasting, High Gloss Shine for Brightwork VARNISH P R O D U C T S A N D A P P L I C A T I O N S

Exquisitely varnished wood is the reflection of the most beautifully maintained boats. We have all marveled at a beautifully varnished wood finish and probably asked questions on what products were used and the application methods. As a boater, you take pride in the appearance of your vessel. You keep it in pristine condition and feel great satisfaction knowing that it s protected and you know that using a varnishing system not only enhances the natural beauty of your boat, it also offers an excellent barrier against varying weather conditions, the sea and the UV rays of the sun. You may have also felt slightly intimidated at the thought of undertaking a varnish project. This guide will help you through the process of completing a successful project.

VARNISH: There are three steps to getting a good result preparation, choosing the right products and application methods. Start by gathering everything you need to complete the project. Stopping work in progress and having to run to the chandlery to get something cannot always be avoided but if it happens often, it can get discouraging. NECESSARY EQUIPMENT: Sandpaper A range of sandpaper will be needed from 60-grit to 400-grit. Be sure to get enough to be able to change the sandpaper often. Remember sandpaper is less expensive than your time. Plastic Scuff pads When sanding edges use a fine plastic scuff pad rather than sandpaper because it will remove less varnish. The green or maroon pads work best. Sanding Blocks Scrapers Scrapers that work by pulling rather than pushing are less likely to gouge the wood. Be sure to round the corners of the scrapers to help avoid gouging. Masking Tape Good quality masking tape that can be left on the surface through several coats of varnish is recommended. Do not use inexpensive masking tape, as it will cost you more in time to remove than it will save you money. Tack Cloths To remove sanding residue. Cheesecloth dampened with solvent can also be used. Brushes While throwaway brushes can be used for stains, sealers and even some of the build coats, use high quality China bristle or Badger hair brushes for finish coats. SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT: Drop cloths Finishing Sanders Paint and Varnish Remover To remove old varnish if necessary. Heat Gun For varnish removal in places where it would be difficult to use a chemical remover. Vacuum Cleaner To efficiently remove heavy sanding residue. 1

Surface Preparation: No matter how much the varnish costs, the most expensive part of a varnish job is the time it takes to do the job. Trying to save time and cut corners is where most people go wrong. Preparation is as important as the application of the final coat and will make a difference in the finish. Previously Varnished Good Condition: When preparing a previously varnished surface that is in good shape, take into account that some contamination such as wax or silicone may be on the surface and that sanding does not remove contamination. The first step is to clean it well by wiping with a rag dampened with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner to remove any contamination. Follow with a clean dry rag. Then sand with 220 to 320-grit sandpaper. Wipe with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner again after sanding. You can use a tack cloth to remove sanding residue but always wipe down with solvent after to be certain the tack rag did not leave residue behind. Apply a minimum of two (2) coats of new varnish sanding between coats with 320-grit sandpaper. 2 Previously Varnished Poor Condition: If the old varnish is in poor shape, it is best to remove it and start from bare wood. Chemical varnish remover will loosen the old varnish to allow for removal with a wide blade pull scraper. Always use a sharp scraper and slightly round the edge of these tools with a file to avoid gouging the wood. Once the varnish is removed, sand the bare wood with 120-grit sandpaper to open the grain and help the sealer or varnish penetrate into the wood. Always sand with the grain. Remove the sanding residue by wiping with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner. Now follow the Bare Wood instructions that follow. Bare Wood: Ensure the surface is dry and clean and has a moisture content between 15-20% before varnishing. Wood that is very dry when varnished, is subject to expansion, cracking, micro-checking and gloss loss when the varnish is in service. Sand the surface with 150 to 220-grit sandpaper. After sanding, clean the sanding residue with a tack rag, vacuum, air hose or cheesecloth dampened with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner. Allow Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner to dry out of the wood. Apply 1 to 2 coats of Pettit EZ-Wood Sealer 2018 over the surface. Sand the surface thoroughly with 220- grit sandpaper.

When making repairs or installing new wood, bed it down so that moisture does not get in and lift the varnish from underneath. A good practice when bedding down trim is to back prime the concealed surfaces with epoxy to prevent moisture from being absorbed into the wood from underneath. Check for moisture in joints. If wood looks black, remove the varnish and use a wood bleach. Then wipe with a fast solvent like xylene to help dry out moisture, sand and give it a final wipe down with solvent. Apply varnish before the wood absorbs more moisture. Excessive moisture in the wood usually leads to blistering of the varnish. The object of all of the cleaning, scraping and sanding is to obtain a smooth, clean and even surface. Using the proper grit of sandpaper is essential. Trying to remove nicks, dings gouges and other defects with too fine of a grit sandpaper will only lead to frustration. When removing defects, it is easier and faster to start with a coarse sandpaper, such as 60 or 80- grit, and then work through to the finer grits of 180 or 220-grit. Conversely, sanding varnish that is in good condition with too coarse of a grit will result in unnecessary work. Many varnishers will use a thinned coat of the varnish they intend to finish with as a sealer coat. This method is perfectly acceptable, but using a clear sealer such as Pettit s EZ-Wood Sealer 2018 will yield better results. Pettit s EZ-Wood Sealer 2018 is used to seal all types of raw wood prior to varnishing. The sealer acts as a moisture barrier layer to Applying Sealer: Sealing the Wood: 1. Ensure the surface is dry and clean. 2. Sand the surface with 180 to 220-grit sandpaper. 3. After sanding, clean the sanding residue with a tack rag, vacuum, air hose or Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner. 4. Apply 1 to 2 coats of Pettit EZ-Wood Sealer 2018 according to directions. 5. Allow sealer to dry per product requirements. 6. Sand thoroughly with 220-grit sandpaper prevent peeling and excessive absorption of vehicle from varnishes. It uniformly seals and satisfies the absorbency of all woods including teak and mahogany. It can be used in a wider range of temperatures and dries faster than varnish. After applying Pettit s EZ- Wood Sealer, lightly sand to a smooth surface before applying varnish. 3

Applying the Varnish You ve prepped your surface, applied paste wood filler stain and a sealer, but the job s not done yet. It s time for the final act, applying the varnish. 1. Choose a dust-free (or as close as possible) environment. If working outside, do not work in direct sunlight or windy conditions. 2. Ensure all post sealer sanding residue has been removed with a tack rag, vacuum or air hose. 3. If applying by brush or roller, add 10-15% of Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner for the first coat. If applying with a spray gun, add 10-15% of Pettit s 121 Spraying Thinner for the first coat. In either case, only the first coat of varnish should be thinned. Varnished Wood in Poor Condition: 1. Remove all the old varnish with a paint and varnish remover or by sanding. 2. Bleach the wood if necessary to remove water stains. 3. Proceed with the application system for bare wood shown on the next page. 4

Bare Teak: (or other woods with high oil content) 1. Sand the wood smooth with 120-grit production paper to open up the grain. Wipe the surface thoroughly with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner in an effort to aggressively remove as much oil as possible. It should be noted that wood with a high oil content may eventually experience adhesion problems, as there is no way to totally eliminate the oil and prevent it from migrating to the surface. However, this application technique has proven successful in most circumstances. 2. Apply a generous coat of Pettit 2018 Clear Sealer. After an overnight dry, lightly sand the surface with 220-grit sandpaper and wipe it clean with a rag dampened with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner. 3. Apply at least four to five coats of varnish. Let each coat dry overnight, sand with 220-grit sandpaper, and clean off sanding residue with a tack rag before applying the next coat. Sand the next-to-last coat with 400-grit production paper prior to applying the final coat. Bare Wood: Apply at least four to five coats of varnish. Let each coat dry overnight, sand with 220-grit sandpaper, and clean off sanding residue with a tack rag before applying the next coat. Sand the nextto-last coat with 400-grit production paper and clean off sanding residue with a tack rag before applying the final coat. Varnished Wood in Good Condition: 1. Wipe old varnish with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner to be sure all dirt, wax, polish and/or grease has been removed. 2. Thoroughly sand the existing varnish with 180 to 220-grit production paper and wipe clean with a tack rag. 3. Apply at least two coats of varnish. Let the first coat dry overnight, sand with 400-grit sandpaper and clean off sanding residue with a tack rag before applying the final coat. 5

Expert Tips: If the surface shows signs of deterioration, flaking or peeling, the varnish will need to be removed by either sanding or scraping. When using a chemical stripper, scrape the old varnish first and then sand with sandpaper. This will help the Paint & Varnish remover penetrate the coating faster and make it easier to remove. All recommendations for sandpaper in this guide are for production sandpaper. Other types of sandpaper may cut into the surface differently, so grit recommendations may be different. Others may have a stearate coating that may cause bubbling in the varnish. Always wipe with a rag that has been dampened with solvent after sanding to help remove sanding residue. How do I eliminate brush strokes? To eliminate brush strokes, focus on small areas. Always brush into the wet edge, that is, don t start a fresh brush-load of varnish from the previous brush-load, but rather brush into the previous brush-load. This will help to eliminate brush-marks and overlaps that may occur if you are brushing out of the wet edge. Try not to varnish in direct sunlight or in very warm, breezy weather conditions. If needed, thin the varnish 5-10% with Pettit s 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner to improve flow-out. How many coats of varnish do I apply? When applying to bare wood, a minimum of four (4) coats is required; when applying over existing varnish, a minimum of two (2) coats is required. What is the required thickness of each coat of varnish? The thickness of each coat is dependent on the product being used. 1015, 2067 and V-975 should be applied in thin coats of no more than 3 wet-mils. 2015 and 2056 can be applied in a slightly heavier coat of up to 4 wet-mils. All coats should be allowed to dry overnight before sanding or recoating. 6 Varnish jobs tend to fail first at the edges of the wood. This is because there is less film thickness on the edge than on the flat piece of wood. Therefore, it is best when sanding edges to use a fine Scotch-Brite pad rather than sandpaper. Bronze wool can also be used. Do not use steel wool, as it may leave particles behind that can rust. When working outside, it is best to varnish in the morning after any dew has been removed from the surface. Varnishing late in the day can lead to poor drying and loss of gloss. Never file or sharpen a scraper where the filings are likely to end up on an area that is going to be varnished or painted. These filings will turn into rust spots. What happens if I get drips or dust in the finish? Drips can occur when a coating is applied too thick. To prevent drips, apply thin coats. Applying several thin coats will often provide better results than a few thicker coats. If drips do occur, sand them out with 220 grit sandpaper with a slight overlap to the surrounding finish. You can then apply a new coat of varnish across the entire surface to even out and blend the appearance. Should dust get into the wet coating, allow it to dry completely. Once the coating is dry, sand back the surface just enough to remove the contaminants that have become lodged in the coating. Make sure to overlap the surrounding finish to even it out and then apply a new coat of varnish making sure to blend the appearance.

Frequently Asked Questions Why is the varnish taking so long to dry? There are some very common reasons why it may take longer than described for the varnish to dry. High humidity or excessive moisture in the air, can prevent proper drying of varnishes. If it is very humid out and you can wait until the next day to work on the project, try to do so. If not, bring your project into an air conditioned area or a room with a dehumidifier. Be sure to have the air conditioner pulling in air from the outside, not re-circulating indoor air, as poor ventilation will also extend dry times. Do not blow air directly onto the freshly varnished surface, as this could lead to hazing of the varnish film. Applying thick coats, or excessively applied paint films, will take much longer to dry, due to solvent entrapment. This occurs when the outside of the paint film dries faster than the inside, trapping solvents. The product will eventually dry, just wait it out. The varnish will become harder and more durable over time as the solvents leave the film. Apply varnishes at the recommended wet film thicknesses mentioned earlier. Temperatures 50 F and below will extend drying times considerably. If you are under time constraints, we suggest moving your work to a warmer area. Applying varnish and allowing it to dry in a warmer workspace will increase its drying rate. Why are there bubbles in my varnish after I have applied it? Bubbles can occur when applying varnish with a brush because the action of brushing can agitate the surface and introduce air into the finish. Over-brushing will introduce even more bubbles. The more you work a section, the thinner the film becomes and the faster the solvent evaporates, which does not leave enough time for the film to self-level. When this happens, brush marks and bubbles aren t able to level themselves out. To prevent this from occurring further, apply 10 to 15% more Pettit 120 or 120VOC-Free Brushing Thinner to the varnish. This will allow the varnish to dry slower, giving it more time to self-level. If you do thin the varnish, additional coats may be necessary to maintain the same protection as full strength coats because the added solvent will reduce the amount of resin in the varnish. This method may be a bit more time-consuming but it will prevent air bubbles and yield a better finish. Occasionally even a good-quality natural bristle brush, such as a Badger hair brush, may induce bubbles into the varnish. If, after thinning the varnish as described above, you continue to see bubbles in the varnish, try changing to a high-quality white China or black China bristle brush for the next coat. 7

Pettit Marine Paint provides the very best varnishes suitable for both exterior and interior woodwork: Captain s Varnish 1015 A favorite among traditional marine industry professionals, this varnish is highly regarded for its reliable service, versatile application, outstanding gloss retention and tough, yet flexible, durability. It has long been recommended for the highest quality work, with outstanding results and all-around durability. A combination of phenolic and alkyd resins blended with tung and linseed oils provide excellent performance. Its warm, light amber hue will enhance the rich, classic bright work appearance. Captain s is considered by its many users to be the most durable varnish ever offered to the boating trade. Contains ultraviolet absorbers and filters. Flagship Varnish 2015 With six (6) times more UV inhibitors, Flagship offers the best protection against the sun s damaging rays. A special blend of phenolic and alkyd resins, combined with tung and linseed oils offer excellent performance and warm, light amber hue. Flagship Varnish contains an ultraviolet light filter in conjunction with a light stabilizer to screen the sun s damaging rays for longer life. Flagship Varnish has the highest build and film depth per coat, as well as excellent abrasion resistance and a high gloss finish. High-Build Varnish 2056 A high performance varnish designed to be built up to many coats for a deep, rich, mirror-like finish. The phenolic resin combined with tung and linseed oils increase the depth of gloss with each coat. High-Build Varnish contains an ultraviolet light filter in conjunction with a hindered amine light stabilizer to screen the sun s damaging rays for longer life. A good varnish for building up multiple coats quickly. Captain s Ultra Clear Varnish 2067 A premium urethane varnish specially formulated for maximum durability and ease of application. The strong ultraviolet inhibitors in Captain s Ultra Clear, help it maintain outstanding gloss long after ordinary varnishes have faded. Ultra Clear s tough surface provides remarkable resistance against scratching and chipping. Its easy brushability, excellent leveling capabilities and fast build-up are among its many attributes that make it a pleasure to apply. Perfect for cabin soles and decking. Captain s Satin Sheen Varnish V-975 Specifically designed to enhance the beauty of interior woodwork with its soft, satin finish. Its pale, durable, long-lasting polyurethane coat is water and alcohol-resistant. Satin Sheen is easy to apply and is intended for interior use only. Captain s Satin Sheen Varnish is preferred by those professionals and do-it-yourselfers who derive pride and pleasure from quality brightwork. SeaGold Marine Wood Treatment 2040 New Gloss 2045 Satin SeaGold brings Wood Coating Technology into the 21st century. Offering the beauty and durability of varnish, the ease of use of synthetic wood treatments, all while being low-odor and user friendly. SeaGold protects the wood using UV stable resins combined with added UV inhibitors as well as transparent pigments to provide a long lasting finish that will not turn brown or orange with exposure to the elements. Both original SeaGold with it s beautiful satin finish and the new Gloss finish both enhance the beauty of the wood and their translucent amber color does not hide or blur the wood grain. 8

Pettit Marine Varnish SeaGold SeaGold Captain s Captain s Captain s Flagship Gloss Satin High-Build Ultra Clear Satin Sheen Varnish Varnish Marine Wood Marine Wood Varnish Varnish Varnish Treatment Treatment 9

The Most Beautiful, Longest-Lasting, High Gloss Shine for Brightwork V A R N I S H

EZ WoodSealer 2018 EZ WoodSealer Clear Clear Sealer Sealer For For All Woods Seals open wood grain providing a more uniform finish For all woods including teak, mahogany, oak, ash, fir, and plywood Prevents excessive vehicle absorption from primers, paints, or varnishes Excellent penetration into raw wood for improved stability and moisture resistance EZ-WoodSealer 2018 is used to seal all types of raw wood prior to painting and varnishing. The sealer acts as a moisture barrier layer to prevent peeling and excessive absorption of vehicle from topside primers, paints, or varnishes. It uniformly seals and satisfies the absorbency of all woods including teak and mahogany. After applying EZ-WoodSealer, lightly sand to a smooth surface before topside priming, varnishing, or painting. EZ-WoodSealer can be used under all Pettit, Z*Spar, and Shipendec topside primers, varnishes and paint finishes. PHYSICAL DATA RESIN...Phenolic OIL...Tung COLOR...Clear amber COMPONENTS...One CURING MECHANISM...Solvent Release/ Oxidation SOLIDS (theoretical) By weight...37.2 ± 2% By volume...31.0 ± 2% COVERAGE...500 sq. ft/gal. VOC...419 g/l as supplied FLASH POINT...64 F APPLICATION DATA METHOD...Brush, Airless or Conventional Spray NUMBER OF COATS...One or two DRY FILM THICKNESS PER COAT...0.8 mils WET FILM THICKNESS PER COAT...2.6 mils APPLICATION TEMP...20 F. Min. / 95 F. Max. DRY TIME (Hours) Temp Tack Free To Recoat 95 F 1 2 75 F 2 4 55 F 4 8 35 F 8 16 THINNER...120 Brushing Thinner 121 Spraying Thinner CLEAN-UP SOLVENT...120 Brushing Thinner ASSOCIATED PRODUCTS 120 Brushing Thinner 121 Spraying Thinner Pettit Paste Wood Filler Stains Pettit EZ Prime 6149 Pettit, Z*Spar Varnishes Pettit, Z*Spar, Shipendec Topside Paint

EZ WoodSealer Clear Sealer For All Woods SURFACE PREPARATION: Wood must be clean, dry and properly prepared prior to varnishing or painting. When sanding wood, always sand with the grain. Use a vacuum, air hose, or tack rag to remove all traces of sanding residue. Follow all surface preparation steps carefully, avoiding shortcuts. Inadequate surface preparation will virtually assure inadequate performance. APPLICATION INFORMATION: Stir 2018 EZ WoodSealer before application. 2018 EZ WoodSealer may be applied by brush, conventional or airless spray. Thinning is not normally required although on very warm days use Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner at 5-10% by volume to ease brushing and maintain good flow. When spraying, use Pettit 121 Spraying Thinner up to 20% by volume. Spray an even, wet coat to minimize orange peel. Do not apply 2018 EZ WoodSealer on extremely humid days or when rain is threatening. Do not apply in the late afternoon when working outdoors as the wet film may be adversely affected by dew. On fir or any wood that has a large hard grain pattern wipe with dry rags while the sealer is wet to remove the excess from the hard grain areas. 2018 EZ WoodSealer is not completely absorbed into the hard grain. Systems Bare Wood: Sand surface completely smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. Wipe surface to remove sanding residue with a tack rag or a rag dampened with Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner. Apply a coat of Filler Stain per the label instructions to achieve a smoother finish on open grained woods such as mahogany, oak, ash, etc. Let dry overnight. Skip the last step if filler stain is not desired. Apply a generous coat of this product. Let it dry overnight, and sand thoroughly with 220 grit sandpaper. On especially rough or porous wood, a second coat of this product may be applied. If applied, sand the second coat as well and wipe the surface clean with a tack rag or a rag dampened with Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner. Varnished Wood in Poor Condition: Remove all old varnish with a paint and varnish remover or by sanding. Bleach the wood if necessary to remove water stains. Proceed with the system for bare wood shown above. Oily Woods/ Bare Teak*: Sand the wood smooth with 120 grit production paper to open up the grain. Wipe the surface thoroughly with Pettit 121 Spraying Thinner in an effort to aggressively remove as much oil as possible. Apply a generous coat of this product. After a six hour dry, lightly sand the surface with 220 grit sandpaper. Apply your Pettit, Z*Spar or Shipendec finish per label instructions. *It should be noted that woods with a high oil content may eventually experience adhesion problems as there is no way to totally eliminate the oil and prevent it from migrating to the surface. However, this application technique has proven successful in most circumstances.

Pettit Technical Bulletin Applying Topside Finishes What s better than a boat that looks good? The answer is simple, a boat that looks good and has superior protection from the elements all season long. Topside finishes do exactly that; provide your boat a unique look all the while making sure it s protected from the sun s UV rays, rain, wind and most importantly, the sea. Which topside finish is best for you? When it comes to selecting a topside finish, boaters look for a dependable, durable and visually enhancing product. Pettit Marine Paint provides topside finishes that excel in all of these areas, and exceed the expectations of even the most particular boater. Easypoxy has a new EZ-Poxy label and is a modern, one-part polyurethane topside and deck enamel that offers brilliant shine and easy brushability. Its ultraviolet filters enhance the already superior gloss retention as well as the durability of the polyurethane, providing a lasting gelcoat-like brilliance that s easy to apply. EZ-Decks a super tough, polyurethane, non-skid performance deck finish containing a special grit that produces a slip-resistant finish on all decks and cabin soles. The durable, weather resistant finish is resistant to long term abrasion and abuse. Loaded with ultraviolet filters, this formula will fight against fading providing vibrant color retention for years with no peeling or cracking. Prepping your surface The success of your project will ultimately depend on your surface preparation. In order to yield optimal results with a finish that turns heads, preparation is key. Surface: Bare Fiberglass 1. Thoroughly wash the entire surface that is to be painted with Pettit s 92 Bio Blue or 95 Fiberglass Dewaxer to remove all traces of mold release agents and wax. *This must be done regardless of age 2. Sand the gelcoat with 80-120 grit sandpaper yielding a dull, frosty appearance. 3. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 4. If the surface is in excellent condition, proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy, EZ-Poxy or EZ-Decks, otherwise proceed to step 5. 5. If the surface is rough or imperfections exist, repairs will need to be done first. 6. Fill all nicks and gouges with Pettit s 7050 EZ Fair Epoxy Fairing Compound according to label directions. 7. When the fairing compound has hardened, sand flush with the surface 8. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue 9. Apply a coat of Pettit s 6149 EZ Prime to smooth the surface and create a uniform base. 10. Sand the surface well. 11. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 12. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy, EZ-Poxy or EZ-Decks. 1

Surface: Clean, Bare Wood 1. Sand the surface smooth with 80-120 grit sandpaper. 2. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 3. Fill all screw heads or small holes with Pettit s 7050 EZ Fair Fairing Compound according to label directions. 4. Sand the compound flush with the surface. 5. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 6. Apply a coat of Pettit s 2018 EZ Wood Sealer to penetrate and seal the porous grain. 7. Follow with a coat of Pettit s 6149 EZ Prime until an evenly smooth base condition is reached. 8. Sand the coat with 80-120 grit sandpaper. 9. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 10. If necessary repeat steps 7-9 to apply a second coat. 11. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy, EZ-Poxy or EZ-Decks. Surface: Bare Wood that has been epoxied 1. Thoroughly scrub the surface with an ammonia/water solution. 2. Sand with 120 grit sandpaper. 3. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 4. Follow with a coat of Pettit s 6149 EZ Prime until an evenly smooth base condition is reached. 5. Sand the coat with 80-120 grit sandpaper. 6. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 7. If necessary repeat steps 2-6 to apply a second coat. 8. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy, EZ-Poxy or EZ-Decks. Surface: Bare Steel 1. Sandblast or grind the surface to a clean, bright finish. 2. Remove blasting residue. 3. Immediately apply one coat of Pettit s 6980 Rustlok Primer. 4. Allow the coat to dry until tacky. 5. If the surface is rough apply one coat of Pettit s 6627 Tie-Coat Primer. 6. Sand the surface smooth with 220 grit sandpaper. 7. Solvent clean to remove sanding residue. 8. Repeat steps 5-7 until a perfectly smooth, uniform base is reached. 9. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy, EZ-Poxy or EZ-Decks. Surface: Bare Aluminum Boats, Masts & Spars 1. Solvent clean the surface until it is free of oil and grease. 2. Remove oxidation and etch the surface with medium grit emery cloth. 3. Remove sanding residue. 4. Apply one thin, wet coat of Pettit s 6455 Metal Primer. 5. Allow the coat two hours to dry. 6. If surface smoothing is desired, use Pettit s 6149 EZ Prime over the 6455 Metal Primer. 2 Pettit Technical Bulletin Applying Topside Finishes Expert Tip: All Pettit topside finishes should be applied with no greater than 3/16 nap roller. A sk the experts:how many coats of Easypoxy, EZ Poxy or EZ Decks should I apply? We recommend at least 2 coats of all three products to be applied over existing finishes. Bare woods and metals may require more coats depending on the shape or primers/sealers previously used.

Pettit Technical Bulletin Applying Topside Finishes 7. Sand the coat with 220 grit sandpaper. 8. Remove sanding residue. 9. If necessary repeat steps 6-8 to apply a second coat. 10. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy or EZ Poxy. Surface: Previously Painted *If paint is in good, sound condition: 1. Scrub the entire surface with Pettit 92 Bio Blue Hull Surface prep and a scotch brite pad. 2. Thoroughly sand smooth with 150 grit sandpaper. 3. Solvent clean or wipe down with a tack rag to remove sanding residue. 4. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy, EZ Poxy or EZ-Decks. *If paint is old or in poor condition: 1. Remove the paint by sanding or using a paint and varnish remover. 2. Proceed with the instructions for the appropriate bare surface system. E xpert Tip: When applying topside finishes, if you are going to be using more than 1 quart or 1 gallon, you should purchase quarts or gallons with the same batch number on the top of the can to maintain color consistency. To Create Non-Skid Decks 1. Add Pettit 9900 Skidless Compound to the mixed Easypoxy. 2. Stir the mixture continuously to insure the compound is thoroughly dispersed and remains in suspension. 3. Follow the appropriate application system, applying a minimum of 2 coats of the mixture. 4. Apply a coat of Easypoxy without the 9900 Skidless Compound to all areas requiring a non-skid surface then sprinkle or broadcast the 9900 Skidless Compound into the wet Easypoxy coat. 5. Allow the coat to dry overnight and then carefully brush out all loose 9900 Skidless Compound. 6. Apply another thin, even coat of Easypoxy to the surface. *For decks that have a pre-molded, non-skid embossment: 1. Wash the surface with Pettit 92 Bio Blue or 95 Fiberglass Dewaxer. 2. Abrade the area thoroughly with bronze wool. 3. Solvent clean the surface to remove residue. 4. Proceed with the first finish coat of Easypoxy. Applying the Finish For an improved, non-skid texture add Pettit 9900 Skidless Compound to the Easypoxy or EZ-Poxy before application. For a semi-gloss finish for decks and interiors add Pettit 3106 EZ Poxy Semi-Gloss White to the EZ Poxy before application. For a custom, satin look add Pettit 9080 EZ-Poxy Satin Additive to the Easypoxy before application. You ve picked your topside finish, you ve prepped your surface and now it s time for the grand finale applying the finish and reaping all of the benefits of a beautiful, vibrant and seriously protected boat. There are two methods of application favored when applying a topside finish: the roll and tip method and an airless sprayer. Roll and Tip Method 1. Apply paint to the roller. You should have enough paint loaded into the roller that you do not have to stop and reload the roller before tipping, but you do not want the paint dripping off of the roller. 3

Pettit Technical Bulletin Applying Topside Finishes 2. Apply the paint to the surface with the roller painting in an arms length area, making sure to get good coverage. Be sure to paint in at least two directions opposing diagonals or horizontally and then vertically to get complete coverage. Finish rolling paint onto the edge where your next pass with start. There should be some overlap here to continue paint flow. 3. Now, using your foam or bristle brush, lightly dip the edge of the brush into your paint supply. 4. Remove any excess paint, the tip should be just wet enough to glide on top of the paint. 5. Run the tip of the brush end over your paint. You may see a faint brush mark as you are doing this. 6. Drag the brush end in the opposite direction you rolled the paint on to remove any roller marks or stipple. 7. Hold the brush on a slight angle as to glide over the top of the painted surface without removing significant amounts of paint. Do not use a lot of pressure. Any brush marks created will quickly disappear as the paint self levels 8. Apply paint to the roller again following step 1. 9. You must start at the end while slightly overlapping your last wet edge to maintain paint flow. 10. Continue with steps 2-9 until the entire surface has been painted. After completing the project using the roll and tip method you will be tempted to go back and retouch some areas. It is important that you DO NOT do so. Slight imperfections will be taken out by either self leveling of the paint or they can be addressed by the second coat. 11. Allow adequate drying time. 12. Sand the first coat lightly with 200 grit sandpaper. 13. Remove excess sanding residue with a tack cloth, vacuum or air hose. 14. Repeat steps 1-10 for subsequent coats of finish. Conventional and Airless Spraying 1. For conventional spray application, thin the finish with 15-20% of Pettit Spraying Thinner. For airless spray application, thin the finish with 5% of Pettit 121 Spraying Thinner and utilize a.011-.015 inch diameter tip for application. 2. Apply one thin, even coat per day When applying the paint you can apply in opposite directions to ensure proper overlapping and paint coverage. Applying two or more coats per day or excessively heavy films (greater than 4 wet mils) will lead to insufficient, thorough drying of the paint and will result in soft paint films. 3. Allow the coat to dry overnight. 4. Lightly sand the coat with 220 grit sandpaper. 5. Apply next coat of finish. 6. Continue steps 1-5 until the finish is satisfactory. Maintaining the Finish Once your boat has been prepped and painted there are only two things left to do show it off and maintain its features. Easypoxy and EZ-Poxy can be polished and waxed after a 7 day cure time. It is especially important to allow the finish to completely cure prior to polishing and waxing to allow all solvents remaining in the paint to flash out. Premature waxing will trap the solvents in the paint making them soft. 4

Pettit Technical Bulletin Applying Topside Finishes Frequently Asked Questions: Why did the second coat of product I applied crinkle? Crinkling will occur when the first coat is applied too heavy and wasn t given enough time to completely dry. To correct the issue, remove the cracked and crinkled coat completely. You may need to sand back to the first coating. If the coating is too soft, allow it to dry completely before trying to sand. Remove the sanding residue with a tack rag and solvent. Replace the second coating. What happens if I get drips or dust in the finish? Drips can occur when a coating is applied too thick. To prevent drips, apply thin coats. Applying several thin coats will often provide better results than a few thicker coats. If drips do occur, sand them out with 200 grit sandpaper with a slight overlap to the surrounding finish. You can then apply a new coat of finish across the entire surface to even out and blend the appearance. Should dust get into the wet coating, allow it to dry completely. Once the coating is dry, sand back the surface just enough to remove the contaminants that have become lodged in the coating. Make sure to overlap the surrounding finish to even it out and then apply a new coat of finish making sure to blend the appearance. Why is the finish taking so long to dry? There are some very common reasons why it may take longer than described for the finish to dry. High humidity or excessive moisture in the air, can prevent proper drying of finishes. If it is very humid out and you can wait until the next day to work out the project, try to do so. If not, bring your project into an air conditioned area or a room with a dehumidifier. Be sure to have the air conditioner pulling in air from the outside, not re-circulating indoor air, as poor ventilation will also extend dry times. Applying thick coats, or excessively applied paint films, will take much longer to dry due to solvent entrapment. This occurs when the outside of the paint film dries faster than the inside, trapping solvents. The product will eventually dry, just wait it out. The finish will become harder and more durable over time as the solvents leave the film. Temperatures 50 F and below will extend drying times considerably. If you are under time constraints we suggest moving your work to a warmer area. Applying the finish and allowing it to dry in a warmer workspace will increase its drying rate. Why are there bubbles in my finish after I have applied it? Bubbles can occur when applying finish with a brush because the action of brushing can agitate the surface and introduce air into the finish. Over brushing will introduce even more bubbles. The more you work a section, the thinner the film becomes and the faster the solvent evaporates, which does not leave enough time for the film to self level. When this happens, brush marks and bubbles aren t able to level themselves out. To prevent this from occurring further, apply 10-15% more Pettit 120 Brushing Thinner to the finish mixture. This will allow the finish to dry slower, giving it more time to self level. If you do thin the finish, additional coats may be necessary to maintain the same protection as full strength coats because the added solvent will reduce the amount of resin in the finish. This method may be a bit more time consuming but it will prevent air bubbles and yield a better finish. 5 If you re looking for quality maintenance and winterization, visit our website.