Make your own Blacksmithing Bellow By Bobby Floyd (Jan. 2014)

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Sheryl Norman
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1 1 Make your own Blacksmithing Bellow By Bobby Floyd (Jan. 2014) Some before rehabilitation photos of this small blacksmithing bellow ca (Length 45, Width 25 ½, Weight 33 lbs.). More before photos can be found on Old Dominion Blacksmith Association Web site.

A bellow is made up of three main boards (Top, Middle and Bottom). 2 Top Board Inside About 7 1/2' 8 12 ¾ 3 The Top and Bottom boards are cut exactly the same size.

You might want to consider tongue & groove, dowels or other systems.

Draw a circle 25 1/2' round with the bottom of the circle line exactly at bottom of the center plank.

Now with a straight edge go from the left and then right of this 8 mark and draw a straight line to the outside of the circle mark where the line for the circle just starts to turn in.

2 A bellow is made up of three main boards (Top, Middle and Bottom). 2 Top Board Inside About 7 1/2' 8 12 ¾ 3 The Top and Bottom boards are cut exactly the same size. The Top & Bottom Boards have 3 or 4 planks that are 3/4' thick by 28 ¼ long by at least a total of 25 ½ wide that are only butted together. You might want to consider tongue & groove, dowels or other systems. 25 ½ Vertical Center line Center Mark 28 ¼ Suggestion on how to make the boards tear drop shape: after firmly attaching the planks next to each other, find the center of them. Draw a circle 25 1/2' round with the bottom of the circle line exactly at bottom of the center plank. Now measure from the top of the circle to the top of this board and it should measure 3. Mark off 4 90 degrees on both sides of the top of the Vertical Center Line for a total of 8. Now with a straight edge go from the left and then right of this 8 mark and draw a straight line to the outside of the circle mark where the line for the circle just starts to turn in. The line you make here should be about 7 ½ long. Top Board Outside The 8 top of both the Top and Bottom Boards are beveled in ¼ toward the inside. 1 Thick 24 ½ Long 2 Wide 1/2 The holding plank is placed centered on the outside of both the Top and Bottom Boards and is nailed from the inside. It s 24 ½ long; 1 thick; 2 wide and rounded some on the top sides on both ends. It s installed ½ from both round edges of the board. Holding Plank The Holding Plank has a curve at both ends.

3 Bottom Board outside 4 ¼ from top of board

wide Flap Leather hinges ¼ x ½ x6 Leather stop

The original material was a thin layer of

3 3 Bottom Board outside 4 ¼ from top of board to outside of cutout Bottom Board inside The metal hook is screwed in here. 4 ¼ circle cutout This center plank is 9 1/2 wide Flap Leather hinges ¼ x ½ x6 Leather stop strap 6 Felt was glued & tacked on. The original material was a thin layer of horsehair ½ x1 x6 6 The 6 x 6 wood door flap is 1/4 thick. Center Board downside view Felt The felt not only goes on the flap but also extends under the 1x ½ x 6 wood strip.

4 Bottom of the 4 ¼ circle cutout to the Bottom of the board is 16 37 ¼ Holding Plank is

the tear drop except the wood is not cut where the nose starts at 28 ¼.

It extends out another 9 for a total length of 37 1/4 of wood.

Center Board upside view Drill ½ hole into ¾ Center Board on both sides for the ½ x9

4 4 Bottom of the 4 ¼ circle cutout to the Bottom of the board is ¼ Holding Plank is 1 1/2 x2 ½ x24 ½ The Center Board is cut exactly like the Top and Bottom boards to make the tear drop except the wood is not cut where the nose starts at 28 ¼. This middle plank is part of the nose and this wide plank 9 ½ is much longer also. It extends out another 9 for a total length of 37 1/4 of wood. This center plank is 9 ½ wide. Center Board upside view Drill ½ hole into ¾ Center Board on both sides for the ½ x9 metal rods Holding planks are on both sides of the Center Board ½ x 9 metal rods The Flap is made exactly as the other one. Holding Plank is 1 ½ x2 ½ x24 ½ 1/2 thick ½ thick Angle about 3 ½ to edge e

5 5 Flowing Arms After some curve (2 ½ wide) it s cut straight down to 1 ½ wide 2 ½ Wide Joints Joint of the Floating Arm There are all kinds of joints one could make. This one was also nailed (2) together. Gap Arm 2 ½ nail so that arm can swivel. Arm Angled Gaps The Arm fits flush here. The nail does not show. Gaps Arm

6 Nose Top/ Facing Up The second plank (1 ¼ ) is 11 long 8 ¾ Of Wood 7 ¼ 10 Metal Pipe Nose

Metal Band 7/8 that s riveted together 8 6 5 ¼ Side view of Nose Wood goes under the metal

plank 1 thick 1 ¼ thick ¾ thick: This is the one piece center plank on the Center Board.

6 6 Nose Top/ Facing Up The second plank (1 ¼ ) is 11 long 8 ¾ Of Wood 7 ¼ 10 Metal Pipe Nose Bottom/ Facing Down 4 ½ The second plank (1 thick) is 14 long. Metal Band 7/8 that s riveted together ¼ Side view of Nose Wood goes under the metal band Looking down the metal cone nose pipe ¾ Center Board plank ¾ thick ¾ thick ¾ plank ¾ plank 1 thick 1 ¼ thick ¾ thick: This is the one piece center plank on the Center Board. 4 ½ 1 ¼ plank 1 plank Flowing Arms Top side Bottom side You will have to use wood shims to make the metal nose pipe fit tight.

7 8 Saw a 4 1/2 circle in ¾ Center Board. The bottom edge of the circle is 3 from bottom of the nose (the 8 piece.) 7 Chisel out this section. Cone size 10 long About 2 ¼ Wide 1 Wide 2 Wide The 1 ¼ plank is 11 long The metal cone comes in wood 2 ¾ 2 Cut Cut and remove the wood 1 in on both sides. The metal in this Cone is This 1 plank has been folded cut into on 2 pieces that are 1 ½ itself x 11 1/4'

8 1 About a 1/8 of wood remains here to stop the metal pipe (cone) from sliding inside more.

forged made. Should be fairly easy to hand-forge one. This hook is screwed on the bottom of the Bottom Board.

plank under the Center Board plank is chisel round about ¼ deep in center.

8 8 1 About a 1/8 of wood remains here to stop the metal pipe (cone) from sliding inside more. ½ ¾ center plank in Center Board is cut all the way to the end on both sides Metal Hook 6 4 ¾ 5 This hook is manufactured and not forged made. Should be fairly easy to hand-forge one. This hook is screwed on the bottom of the Bottom Board. Underside of the Center Board Top plank is ¾ x 8 ¾ 1 plank 1 cut out like the other side 14 ¼ Long ¾ plank on top of 1 plank 5 ¼ 1 plank under the Center Board plank is chisel round about ¼ deep in center. NOTE: As you have noticed I did not take the nose apart for fear of breaking it but I think you have enough information now to make one yourself. If I were to make one, I d first put (nail/glue) the 1 plank onto the Middle board (underside), then the ¾ x 8 ¾ (nail/glue) plank on top of the 1 plank. Now flip the Center Board (upside) and start to fit the metal cone nose in place, then the 1 ¼ planks (nail/glue) and finally the ¾ x 11 (nail/glue). When all is dried, I d shape the nose with a saw; draw knife; rasp; plane and/or sander.

The Leather 9 I purchased my leather off of the Internet from the The Hide Store because they had photos of different kinds/colors of half hides on a table 5 x 8 so that one could tell how long and

The half cow hide that I bought for $120.00 (including the shipping charges) had a thickness of 3.5 ounce that s very soft and flexible.

9 The Leather 9 I purchased my leather off of the Internet from the The Hide Store because they had photos of different kinds/colors of half hides on a table 5 x 8 so that one could tell how long and wide they were and they also sent free samples. My thought was to find a hide long & wide enough that it was not necessary to have it sewn together to be able to go around the bellow like most do. The half cow hide that I bought for $ (including the shipping charges) had a thickness of 3.5 ounce that s very soft and flexible. The Hide Store did not have any leather thicker than what I bought but a lot of the leather stores do. My research has shown that 4 ounce to 6 ounce thickness is the preferred thickness used on most bellow. Goat skin hides are some of the best for the bellow. Canvass was also used in historic bellow. To save money some use vinyl or imitation leather in today s time. Nearly all bellow are sewn together either by overlapping about half inch or less then they are double stitched or the joining pieces are folded over each other for about a half inch or less and then double stitched. The original leather on this old bellow had four places that it was sewn together. Installing the Leather on the Bellow You can make a pattern like I did on the first one I restored but I did have difficulty putting it on evenly without wrinkles, you might do better. This one was done differently because I wanted some surplus leather to work with to pull it tight and even therefore measured how long and wide at the widest part and cut one long rectangular piece. As you nail the leather be sure not to drive the nail in all the way to start with because you will need to probably make Probably some adjustments to make it fit properly therefore requiring you to remove the nail to another location. The excess leather after installing all will be cut away with a razor blade. 9 ½ Hide

10 3 Three main 4 Center of Boards Bottom edge of Top Board Wood block 2 ½ Connect the boards together with at least a 2 ½ wide piece of leather that goes all the way around.

Board and the center of top edge Center Board. 6 Lines Top center mark Flip the 16 x 84 leather piece over and mark lines on leather that are one half of the width and length.

Mark center of Top Board outside on wood and line it up to the top center edge (inside mark) of the 16 x 84 leather piece and tack.

10 10 3 Three main 4 Center of Boards Bottom edge of Top Board Wood block 2 ½ Connect the boards together with at least a 2 ½ wide piece of leather that goes all the way around. If you were to put the leather on with the boards closed, it would make the bellows harder to open, plus it could stretch and possibly tear the leather, therefore open both the top and bottom boards some when installing this piece. 5 Center of top edge of Center Board Using a block of wood between the Top Board and Center Board move it around inside the two until you get exactly 6 ¾ between the center of bottom edge of Top Board and the center of top edge Center Board. 6 Lines Top center mark Flip the 16 x 84 leather piece over and mark lines on leather that are one half of the width and length. This will be your guide lines for the middle/center of the bellow leather installation. Mark center of Top Board outside on wood and line it up to the top center edge (inside mark) of the 16 x 84 leather piece and tack. Now pull the leather snug downward until the center line mark underneath leather is half way between the 3/4 thick Center Board and tack there. Do not drive any of the following nails all the way end yet because you might need to remove some and make adjustments. From here on out you will be using the same center line underneath the leather as before as your guide. Move over about a foot, place center line half way on ¾ Center board, pull it snug and tack. Now, directly above this tack, pull leather upward/sideways until all wrinkles are out and then tack to the Top Center Board. Continue doing this process on both sides until you are near the two rods.

11 7 8 Now reach inside and move flow arm until it is centered between the Top Board and Center Board.

Measure to make sure you have the same distance, whatever it is, on both sides each time you tack leather to float arm to make sure the float arm is level.

9 Lift bellow out of stand on one side, remove one rod, put leather flat/even/straight/tight against the hole and mark on the leather were the hole should be.

1 ¼ 10 Excess leather was cut off here 3 The Joint is here Dotted line Now brace the bellow from the back with a plank then reach in and remove the wood block

Make sure to use your wood block and do almost the same thing again on this side.

11 Now reach inside and move flow arm until it is centered between the Top Board and Center Board. Measure to make sure there is 3 between edge of Boards and edge of flow arm plank at the end/center of Bellow. Measure to make sure you have the same distance, whatever it is, on both sides each time you tack leather to float arm to make sure the float arm is level. Now drive the tacks /nails all the way in. 9 Lift bellow out of stand on one side, remove one rod, put leather flat/even/straight/tight against the hole and mark on the leather were the hole should be. Cut or punch ½ hole. Put rod back in and do the same thing on the other side. 1 ¼ 10 Excess leather was cut off here 3 The Joint is here Dotted line Now brace the bellow from the back with a plank then reach in and remove the wood block from the inside. Finish tacking the leather up to almost the start of the nose and stop. Flip the whole bellow over and that puts the Bottom Board on top. Make sure to use your wood block and do almost the same thing again on this side. It s much easier to put the leather on because the Center Board is already nailed. Just pull the leather up until it is snug with no wrinkles and tack. Extend leather past were the Boards & Flowing Arms meet the nose (I call this the Joint) about 3 onto the nose. Cut leather at an angle as show above about 1 ¼ from Joint. Again be sure that the bellows is open some when tacking on the leather to Nose and Boards. Cut excess leather off. Cut a round hole a little less than ½ in center of 1 ½ square piece of leather; slide onto rod and glue it to main leather.

12 Love to hear from any of you that have or are using a bellow in blacksmithing with your tips and/or photos. Thanks, Bobby Floyd (President of the Old Dominion Blacksmith Association) 816 Honeybee Road Long Island, VA va18@hotmail.com

Grand Blacksmithing Bellows

Grand Blacksmithing Bellows (1830-1 Measurements 850 Estimated date of construction is between 1830 s & 1850 s (nail study) Owner and researcher is Bobby Floyd (December 2011) Member of the Old Dominion